Zack Brown

I have a Lenovo Legion 5 2021 (5800H, RTX 3070) that's running Windows 11. I enabled Advanced Optimus from the NVIDIA Control Panel but it does not switch to the dGPU when I launch games like CS:GO, Portal 2, and Brawlhalla .It does work with Rocket League and Fortnite, however. (Could this be an Epic Games / Steam thing?) I've tried switching on Automatic Display Switching, which did switch the graphics to the dGPU but would crash the games. All my drivers and firmware are up to date. Does anyone have any idea how to fix this?

The games installed on my HDD (WD Black 2TB 7200RPM) suddenly started stuttering. I'm sure that this is an issue with my HDD because when installing the same games on my SSD, they run flawlessly. If not for the in-game stuttering, I wouldn't have noticed that there was anything wrong with my HDD as everything else runs smoothly. Will I have to replace my drive, or is there anything I can do to try and fix the problem? I tried defragging it, but Windows already does that weekly anyway, and it did not fix the issue. Specs are in my signature. Edit: I ran a SMART test and it looks like I got a faulty drive. http://prntscr.com/uxyuc4

I have a NZXT H440, i7-6700K, Asus Z170-A, Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 3000MHz, EVGA GTX 1080 FTW. I need to choose between the be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 and the Dark Rock TF. Which one would be the better, keeping in mind case restrictions? I can only choose between those 2, so while I appreciate other fan recommendations they won't be needed in this case.

Specs: Motherboard: ASUS Z170-A CPU: i7-6700K @ 4.00 GHz Cooler: Corsair Hydro H110i RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 3000MHz I recently started getting high temps with my setup, idling at around 70C. Ruling out cooling problems, what could the issue be? For some reason the stock voltage was 1.3 something, so i tried setting it to 1.2V but temps stayed the same. I reset CMOS, stock voltage was 1.28V. I lowered it down to 1.2V, instead it rose to 1.3 something and other voltage values were changed for some reason. I tried to change it to 1.2V again, it worked but the other values remained the same (higher than usual). I then changed the other values (such as DRAM Voltage, Standby Voltage, etc) to their standard ones as listed in the BIOS. I got a black screen, so I rebooted and it put me in POST. This time, the core voltage was changed to 1.28V, while all other values remained the same (standard ones that I put). I tried changing it to 1.2V again but I got another black screen. Any ideas to how I could fix this and lower the temps?

I did that, core voltage was set to 1.28V. I lowered it down to 1.2V, that didn't work and other voltage values were changed for some reason. I tried to change it to 1.2V again, it worked but the other values remained the same (higher than usual). I then changed the other values (such as DRAM Voltage, Standby Voltage, etc) to their standard ones as listed in the BIOS. I got a black screen, rebooted and it put me on POST. This time, the core voltage was changed to 1.28V, while all other values remained the same (standard ones that I put). I tried changing it to 1.2V again but I got another black screen. Ideas?

I can't control the fan curves even through BIOS. The overclock is literally only 0.01 more so I don't think it'll affect anything...

Core voltage was 1.325V, I reduced it to 1.2V however the temps are still high (this was before I applied the thermal paste). I think there's something in the BIOS I need to do but I'm not sure. Any recommendations?

I've done all of the above. Reapplied thermal paste, cleaned off all the dust from the fans. I can confirm the pump is working and there is no major change in temps. I think this might be a voltage issue.

My current setup since 2016 is: Case: NZXT H440 Motherboard: Asus Z170-A CPU: i7-6700K @ 4.01GHz (It somehow automatically overclocked itself) Fans: 5x be quiet! SilentWings 2 140mm CPU Cooler: Corsair H110i GTX Recently temps have been reaching 100C during gaming and idling around 65C. I haven't had much luck on controlling the fans' RPMs due to some connection issues I believe. They have been running on ~1000RPM since I got them. When idle, the CPU cooler fans run at 1020RPM and the pump at 2010RPM. So my question is, what do you recommend in terms of fans/coolers to lower the temps?

My Google Pixel 3 of ~10 months has been working perfectly fine until I put it in my zipped-up pocket while jet-skiing one day. I took it out out of my pocket to take some pictures, at the time it only seemed like there was a bit of water that got on the phone so I wasn't worried. However, when I got home it wasn't charging normally anymore; when using the Google 18W USB-C power adapter that comes with the phone (USB-C on both ends of the wire) it doesn't charge. However, when I plug it into a Huawei charger for example (USB Type-A on one end and USB Type-C on the other) it charges just fine. Headphones also don't work, as well as the AUX in my car. Any thoughts?

Does replacing the display have any risks in regards to losing saved data?

Why a Mac specifically?

I'm not in the US at the moment, and won't be for a while.

My iPhone 8 got water damaged yesterday. After soaking it in rice for around 24 hours, I first got a "no charge" symbol. After charging it and booting it up, I get the white apple logo and then just a black backlit screen. Sometimes, some vertical lines appear but nothing else. After taking it to an authorized Apple reseller (no official Apple stores where I'm from) they said they don't fix water damaged phones. They can only replace the phone but that's it. The problem is, I have unbacked up pictures on there that date up to 4 years back. So: 1. Is there any way that I can fix the phone and get all the images at the same time? 2. If not, is there a way that I can at least get all my data back?