Overlandr

How far does the Wifi already reach into your garden? use something like https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.farproc.wifi.analyzer&hl=en_GB

to see, as it might simply be a case of updating the channel you are using now.
 
Ubiquiti sounds a bit overkill for this. as all you really need to do is add either Repeater or Antenna to the outside of your house. but that all depends if you have a a router that has external antena that you can unscrew? 

essentially the other point that needs to be made, Wifi works much better outdoors than it does indoor, so an access point like this 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wireless-Waterproof-Installation-Controller-EAP110-Outdoor/dp/B01N4EGN6H
will more than likely completely flood your garden if you put it up high enough on the outside of the house, does need cabeling and if poss POE, 
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wireless-Waterproof-Installation-Controller-EAP110-Outdoor/dp/B01N4EGN6H

so essentially you run a network cable to the wall facing the garden, plug it into that POE switch, then run a cable from that POE switch too the AP, so about £80 for your hardware + cable, if you can terminate CAT 5 Then Cool just get some indoor cable for the Router to Switch part, and some outdoor for the Switch to AP part. 
 
CAT5 isnt actually that hard to terminate if you have the correct tools 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crimping-Stripper-Connection-Connectors-Ethernet/dp/B06WW4SQB9
 
this is probably the clearest diagram, you cable both ends the same .. A-A or B-B I normally use 568-B for all my patch cables 

 

Its an Access Point, plug it into your network, configure the security and it will broadcast sweet sweet wifi for your phone, laptop, xbox, whatever you want to connect to it.
 

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We don't allow begging on this forum.

No, SLI is not worth it.  
 
SATA vs NVME is only noticeable if moving large files around.  Booting and loading games and apps won't make a noticable difference.  
I'd take the money you save from the 1TB SSD, 3600 instead of 3600x and a motherboard with no SLI and buy the best GPU you can.

what are you making this build for?

I use the 500BT in my NAS as it was on sale for £28 and it works well so far and I have had it 6 months or so.

I use the 500BT in my NAS as it was on sale for £28 and it works well so far and I have had it 6 months or so.

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This would be better suited as a status update

Well JLCPCB produces so many PCB that they are really cheap for what they are. You would have to sink an absurd amount of money into it to become profitable at all. I don;t know about the tooling itself, but I know enough to say it wouldn't be cheap.

Well JLCPCB produces so many PCB that they are really cheap for what they are. You would have to sink an absurd amount of money into it to become profitable at all. I don;t know about the tooling itself, but I know enough to say it wouldn't be cheap.

Very nice. That is some tasty looking RAM. Hope it works well for you.

Yeah it's ridiculous!   CL16 was cheaper but I wanted good speed and timings.
 
Thanks!  If I could build cool systems for friends and just charge them for the parts I probably would.  At least for a while.

That's some dam expensive RAM. Looks like a nice build though, I like that you're making it mainly just because you want to

Well I built a rig in September but the itch was still strong, so here I go again!  This will probably sit in my home office and be used for VR almost exclusively.   But who knows, maybe I'll do some transcoding or something.
 
Parts:
Phanteks Evolv Shift in Grey ($110 Amazon)
Ryzen 7 2700X ($250 Microcenter) 
Asus X470i MB ($160 Microcenter)
Samsung 970 Pro 512GB ($178 Amazon)
G.Force TridentZ RGB 16GB F4-3200C14D-16GTZRX ($240 Newegg ugh!)
EVGA 1080 ti Gaming Black Edition ($545 Ebay)
Cooler Master ML120R ($77 Amazon)
Seasonic Focus SGX-650 Gold ($130 Amazon)
 
I accidentally ordered the GTZR memory, which is NOT tested for Ryzen so I returned that today and ordered the right stuff (GTZRX) yesterday.   Thank you Newegg for that 30% restocking fee.  Why, you ask?  Because I screwed up and cut the seal before I did my part verification.  Shame on me.
 
I picked up the 1080 ti a month ago because I figured supply would be dropping and I should get a deal while I could.  I've already tested it in my other rig and it's rock solid.  I'm actually going to throw it in my other rig again because I'm getting tearing when I watch YouTube.  I suspect it's the receiver passthrough to the TV that's at fault but I want to eliminate the GPU as the culprit.  Both GPUs have plenty of warranty left though.  Unfortunately this one just lights up white....no RGB.
 
I saw the 2700X at Best Buy for $280 during Black Friday and told a buddy of mine and he showed me the awesome deal at Microcenter but they were sold out.   But they restocked Saturday night so I drove from San Diego to Tustin.  Partially for the discount (plus the $30 MB combo discount), but mostly because I hadn't been to a Microcenter before.  I didn't run into any of my favorite YouTubers though.  Bummer.
 
The AIO I had from the last build, but I swapped it for an EVGA 240 CLC in that rig and thought it'd be great in the Shift in push/pull.  I'm not a fan of Cooler Master's RGB software or controller, especially with the original build, but it'll do.
 
I think the Gigabyte X470 board is better, honestly, but I've always leaned towards Asus motherboards, win or lose.  I still have my old Asus P5KPL-CM mATX Socket 775 motherboard floating around from my very first complete build!
 
The 970 Pro....  well....  is there a better SSD?  LOL
 
I'm hoping that Phanteks has updated their PCI-E riser.  But I'll have to test once assembled and see if the GPU is working properly.   Actually I'll probably pull the riser and test it on the bench first.  I've read nothing positive about the case riser....almost prevented me from getting it.
 
Well most of the parts are here.  Memory should be here tonight if you trust FedEx (I don't) and the PSU should be here Tuesday.  
 
Build pics to come......

It probably doesn't even need a power cable in to run, but I'd probably suggest using a MOLEX to PCI-e adapter if you really want one, the power draw is low enough that it really shouldn't matter.

Plugging in a power cable doesn't make more power get drawn from another location. It delivers power via the cable.

Oh I have one of those.
 
You can replace it with a hba if you want.
 
You can put reistors on the fans if you want it quieter.
 
You can't easily swap them, just solder reistors on the ram. But they are normal sized 60x60mm fans There is one connector for each pair of fans.

if the parity breaks at the same time as one of the main storage drives, you would lose data.  If just the parity breaks, pop in a new drive the software will rebuild the parity drive.
 
you can always try out your config, FreeNAS is free and unRAID has a free trial

I agree it doesn't seem like you need to. If you really want more FPS in games, I would recommend upgrading the GPU to something like a GTX 1070, but you could also wait until the next load of graphics cards gets released because they will have much better FPS for your money. You could also overclock your CPU if you haven't already.

What are you doing with the system where you think unRAID would be that much slower due to the parity system.
 
The VM can be run off an SSD either as an unassigned device or as a caching drive.
 
I use unRAID with 6 total drives, mainly as a NAS, VM box (Windows, Linux, FreePBX) and a Plex Server and I have no SSD cache (ran out of SATA ports, lol).
 
I have also used FreeNAS and OpenMedia Vault.  All of them take advantage of Docker for Apps.  FreeNAS is advantageous for the ZFS file system, but there are caveats.
 
Reasons ZFS is less user-friendly to a consumer/prosumer.
1.  Cost, As you said Xeon + ECC Memory is expensive, though you can find decent deals on eBay for older X5670 Series or slightly newer Xeon E-3xxx Series Chips, DDR3 ECC is pretty cheap also on eBay.
 
2.  Your 8 Terabytes will be 6TB usable with a Z1 Raid and only 4 TB usable with a Z2 Raid.
 
3.  You have to add drives to your server in a series, you cannot add to your ZFS pool without getting multiple (I'm pretty sure 3 or 4 drives) at once. (note: could be more).
 
I really think you'd be happy with unRAID or FreeNAS, but I think it's important to weigh the pros and cons.  
 
Another important note on virtualization.  Check your motherboard and it's IOMMU groups and hardware passthrough capabilities.  I have an old Asus P6T (Socket 1366, x58 mobo) with a Xeon X5679 (6c/12c) and I have had issues with IOMMU groups and the BIOS not fully utilizing the CPUs VT-d feature.

3200MHz CL14 is pretty much the sweetspot.
 
You could go all out get a 3600MHz+ kit if you're into benchmarking too.

Not all computer, only one that you set up. (On windows, search for iscsi initiator)
Technically it can be used by multiple machine, however since all machine can also write the disk then most of time the image data on iscsi profile would be corrupted.
 
best way to use iscsi to multple machine is set one machine able to read/write and set other machine to read only, it's like master and client side, if there's an update then only updates on master machine, and all clients will get latest update when it's done.

It looks like the 2200G is better for performance on something like this, but FreeNAS says its better to use intel because of the system they use of VMs using a VNC.
 
I was looking at getting a 10GbE NIC in the future as an upgrade, same with the cache, it would be after I have made the main storage RAID array. The reason for using M.2 over normal SSDs was for the better IOPS performance, as I will get less storage for the same price, but it will be faster for smaller stuff.
 
Also sorry for the late reply.

My favorite budget CPU is the core i3 8100