AutonomousRedux

Aight. Was hoping to not have to use something that could stab my mobo, but I'll give it a shot. As for the tubes, they're soft tubes with compression fittings, and I'm draining everything and moving stuff to another case. Hence wanting to remove the GPU. Thanks for the warning, though.

Not sure where this goes, but here we are. I need help getting my GPU out of my motherboard. The backplate is wedged up against the latch and I can't get it to depress. Pictures are attached. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Evenin'. Recently bought a few sets of medium and large MCM arches. Gonna be honest, I really like 'em. Although I do have two suggestions that I feel would improve the user experience. 1. Backing plates should have something for the arches to snap to position. Maybe a magnet sized bump or divet? Every time I take an arch off the plate and put it back on, I need to adjust it to get it back in place. 2. Put a screw hole on each end of the backplates, preferably closer to the edge. This: Ensures that the plate doesn't rotate on installation or when in use Makes it easier to line up with other backplates and then level afterwards Other than that, found these to be pretty easy to use. Good product that I generally recommend.

Afternoon, all. Looking for some help with a loop upgrade I'm thinking about doing. So here's my deal. I'm currently on the market for some fans that are painted white or silver or can be easily painted white/silver. I'm running ML120s and I would just get more of those, but I can only find them secondhand. Anything at about the same noise signature and performance or better would be appreciated. Also: I'm looking for a 360 xflow and 240 xflow radiator that can be used with both the inlet and outlet on the same side. By that I mean something like this demonstration picture (ignore the X) Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.

Grazzi

Evenin', peeps. Looking to do a little something for when I have family over in the near future. I have my computer that somebody may need to use. Thing is, I don't want them snooping around in any of my drives (including C). So what I want to do is restrict them to only browser access and maybe a thumb drive or something. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Aight. I found the solution. I bought a minidsp 2x4 HD. That got rid of all the buzzing/humming. Not a perfect solution as switching is done in software instead of a button press, but I'll take it.

1. Turning down the volume on the speakers, subwoofer, and headphones do get rid of the buzz. The only problem is the headphones want a different system volume than the speakers/sub. Might need to get a switch with a volume control and then normalize everything. 2. Unfortunately, even with short cables, they still wanna buzz if not connected to a source. 3. This I can try. Got a little bit of a nest going on at the back of my desk. Although I do have a Monster tap that's supposed to arrive today.

Do you mean plugged directly in to the sound source? Or in to a splitter that goes to the sound source? Because if so, as long as they're getting sound input they're happy. Even with the switch, so long as it's plugged in to the side getting the audio signal, it's happy. Speakers and sub are only unhappy when they have cables in them and are not connected to the sound source. Whether that means they're on the other side of a switch or aren't plugged in to anything else.

I don't have another switch to test it with, but so long as it's connected to the audio out it works with no problems. What I've done so far: switched to the headphones and then turned the device volumes down until the buzz wasn't noticeable. I then upped the system volume to compensate. What I've discovered is that my headphones aren't happy when they aren't connected to the source either. I thought they were so I didn't really test it. And the Sony L600s come with a DAC.

Unfortunately, it seems like the tail of the dragon has turned into a Harpy's shriek. Any chance you might be able to help with this nonsense?

Yeh. Unfortunately, that doesn't fit my use case. Do you have a DAC you recommend? I was looking at Scarlets and Schiits and didn't see anything I like. Kinda want two outputs with a switching function between them. Or, alternatively, would a sound card actually be warranted here?

Buzz in the sub goes away if I put the inline isolator on. Speakers still throw a hissy fit (but less). Speakers disconnected from sub but with aux attached will buzz if not plugged in to audio out. Buzz disappears if audio out or cable taken out from speaker. Inline isolator on aux going to speakers but not as audio out reduces buzz slightly. Monitors are using DP directly in to the GPU. Switch is connected to output of my motherboard. There shouldn't be any crosstalk.

1. Everything is going in to the same outlet, so that's a no go. I'm thinking of getting a wall-tap with some power conditioning to see if that helps at all. 2. Anything you'd recommend? 3. Using syncwire and Smithok wires. A uGreen and some other aux cables give me the same result on the speakers.

Is there any way to fix it? Or is there a switch with grounding in it?

Well, I think I have it dialed in. Now I'm just having a new issue.

Evenin', gents. I come here with a problem. I have just recently purchased a subwoofer and hooked them up to my speakers. I have also added an audio switch to select between my headphones and my sub/speakers. Here's the issue: when I switch over from the speakers/sub, or unplug the cable from the audio source, I have this buzzing noise. This happens whether the sub and speakers are paired together or separate, they'll both buzz. If I unplug the audio cables from the equipment or select as audio out, the buzzing stops. Equipment: Monoprice #9723 GigaWorks T40 SII Switch Here's a diagram of the setup for reference Trying to put a noise isolator inline kinda helped a little with the subwoofer. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

Hey, uh, let's say, hypothetically: I didn't know how big these subs were gonna be and when I got home with it I considered replacing my printer table with the subwoofer. Would that be a bad idea? Hypothetically of course.

What would you two recommend for a subwoofer that's around $200 or less? Would this be an alright idea?

Aight. Grazzi.

When you say "If it's from a subwoofer out port then you only need one", what do you mean by that? The subwoofer in the example (and most from what I could find) have the RCA split in to L + R on both the input and output. In this case, I would have to go from aux to split RCA, then split RCA back to aux to the primary speaker. Or so I'm assuming.

Would something along the lines of this work just fine?

So, if I were to use this subwoofer as an example, I would use the green port on my mother and run this splitter to the input on the subwoofer. I would then use a second splitter of the same type to run from the output of the subwoofer to the input of my speakers, correct? Something along the lines of this image?

So the way it would work for me would be I would Y split from my motherboard. One branch goes to my speakers. The other I would split again and send to the L and R of the subwoofer, correct?

Would you just y-split, one to the speakers, one to the trigger input? Or would you need to do both the L and R inputs?