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EvilNeo

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About EvilNeo

  • Birthday May 20

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Egypt

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7 6700k
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z170A xpower Gaming Titanium Edition
  • RAM
    G.Skill Ripjaws 4 2x8 (16GB) 3000Mhz CL 15-16-16-35 1.35v
  • GPU
    Gigabyte nvidia GTX 980 Ti xtreme Waterforce
  • Case
    some unknown
  • Storage
    HDDs: WD Green 640GB + WD Black 2TB / SSD: zotac 120GB
  • PSU
    Seasonic MII12 620w
  • Display(s)
    samsung Syncmaster S19B150
  • Cooling
    Coolermaster Neptune 240m
  • Keyboard
    unknown
  • Mouse
    unknown
  • Sound
    unknown
  • Operating System
    Win 10 x64 Pro

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  1. I have just bought a new Thermaltake view 37 ARGB case and I hope to get suggestions on what's the best airflow configuration I should install what I have is CPU cooler: Coolermaster Neptune 240M (a 240 mm AIO) GPU: Gigabyte GTX 980ti xtreme wateforce (a 120mm AIO) note: case comes with 3 fans, one 120mm in the back and 2 200mm in the front if you're unfamiliar with view 37, it doesn't have any top fans (because glass) but it has side fan location to compensate also it has a bottom fan location (but from reviews I was led to believe it was ill-advised to use as a fan there would basically be fighting against the PSU fan airflow) also note, from gamer nexus review, when fans set in the outside of the front panel (as in the stock installation) the performance is really bad since there are little room for the fans to breath what I initially thought Is to set the GPU AIO in the front (intake) along with the 1 of the 200 intake (not sure if this config is possible) the CPU AIO in the side as intake leave the pre-installed back as exhaust ??? this would leave me with 1 unused 200mm fan another approach would be switching the pre-installed 120mm back fan with the GPU AIO as intake and move that 120mm to the bottom as exhaust(?) the CPU AIO in the side as intake flip front 2x200mm as exhaust any suggestions would be awesome
  2. Leopold and Varmilo probably not, might find ducky but it's rare and probably tenkeyless Huntsman TE is there for 2200 but here's the thing, it's tenkeyless and i need the numpad also the regular hunstman is there and super cheap, what's the difference between them btw? really?! you're like the 3rd person who said that to me, i thought corsair is the flagship king in mechanical keyboards I've seen video reviews of the Alloy Elite and felt while it does look good but it's software felt like a cheap tool why do you suggest it so hard?
  3. sorry took a while to collect the prices, so here's a list of the cheapest prices for each keyboard in EGP, knowing that my budget is about 2600 EGP K68: 2500 BlackWidow Elite: 2700 Huntsman: 1750 (this is the weirdly discounted one, note it is not the Elite nor the Tournament Edition) XPG SUMMONER: 1800 G513: 2350 (there's another seller priced at 2100, same seller as the huntsman) G613: 1600 HyperX Alloy Elite: 2400
  4. I'm in the market for a mechanical keyboard and finally say goodbye to membrane which is the only keyswitch I've ever experienced. most promising choices i have are the K68 and the G513 not sure which to buy, both are about the same price in my country and i don't believe international shipping (amazon) is much of a choice nowadays. usage will be gaming + programming, numpad is a must and a wrist-rest would be nice. either brown or red switches, loud noises (blue) is a no-go for me, people say Romer-G is too mushy and similar to membrane but idk. other similar options available locally: XPG SUMMONER RGB MSI VIGOR GK80 Razer BlackWidow Elite Razer Huntsman + a whopping 40% discount (seems fishy idk why it got such a low price but amazon gives the same discount as well) i would appreciate any help / suggestions
  5. any reasons? aside from Y540 having a 144hz monitor
  6. I'm suggesting a laptop for a friend and so far we've stood between L340 and Y540 the uses of the laptop will be primarily programming, no gaming at all and there will be a lot of traveling with the laptop the specs are almost the same as well as the price i7 9750H / GTX 1650 / 16GB RAM with the difference in storage L340: 1TB SSD Y540: 1TB HDD + 128 SSD ( i know what y'all thinkin, why pick such a high-end if no gaming at all but i'm looking for something really strong and our local market isn't very rich with choices) i'm leaning towards the L340 because of the massive SSD storage and lightweight but i fear from the build quality, so i wanna get a second opinion please.
  7. couldn't find any good brown keyboard and be within my budget ,most of them are without a numpad which is kinda a deal breaker for me
  8. i need to buy a mechanical keyboard from amazon and settled on the red dragon that was on linus' mechanical keyboards roundup video https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016M91SS0?tag=viglink20940-20 it look good and within my budget but it's blue switches so the clucking noise might be a problem, so i'm looking for o-rings in amazon but there's lots of options so what o-ring would you recommend? ,do you think they won't make any difference at all?
  9. you think the power supply might be the cause of this?
  10. @Being Delirious any ideas on this situation
  11. first of all i've checked the README: How to respond to a no POST or no power up situation post and the fact that i haven't changed anything between yesterday and today i don't think it's tips would be helpful specs: Motherboard: z170 xpower gaming titanium edition PSU: seasonic M12II 620w CPU: core i7 6700k GPU: gigabyte 980TI xtreme waterforce ram : G.skill ripjaws 4 2x8 case: nzxt s340 yesterday my PC was working perfectly fine , turned it off yesterday without any BIOS changes and when turning it ON today i had no POST Debug screen shows code 00 I've also noticed a couple of unusual behavior on some LEDs on the PC: - the XMP LED is turned off which is always on since i've activated it a year ago - the hard drive activity LED on the motherboard is also fully ON - both BIOS A and BIOS B LEDs are ON ,when flipping the dual-BIOS switch and powering up the motherboard only BIOS B LED is ON - the graphics card has two 8 pin power connector and each of them has above it a white LED that indicates the power that reaches each ,both those LEDs were not turned ON although both 8 pin power connectors were plugged in and the Graphics Card Fan was working - the Case has a circular White LED over it's power button, this LED is OFF -the pumps and fans of the whole system seem to be running , cannot be certain if it's running on the same speeds as before or not but it seems so -i hear the HDDs moving on the first few seconds of powering up the system even though my OS is on an SSD, i know it wouldn't matter since it didn't reach BIOS i'm not sure what's my BIOS version and i haven't done any BIOS updates before as i've never had any problems and most people advise on not updating the BIOS unless there is something wrong i've tried to clear CMOS , use SLOW mode , the discharge button on the OC Dashboard and also tried to boot up without the GPU connected ,swap RAM sticks positions/using only one stick instead of two but none helped unfortunately i've got no spare parts so i cannot swap parts and figure out which part is defective i hope anyone can help me out with this issue
  12. i think skyrim might be a bit cpu hungry if lots of mods were used especially the ones which adds more Scripts and extra units on screen
  13. most games don't rely on powerful cpus so i think you should narrow down your search with what kind of games you'd like to play
  14. got an MSI motherboard as well and has the same bug, actually it doesn't hurt with anything also i've noticed that it only happens when i pick the full screen MSI logo option from the BIOS settings so if you don't like this bug and wanna see window's loading screen i think you should disable it from your BIOS ,the option might has a different name though
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