SUPER_MOOSE93

thanks, would you be able to provide a breakdown of what would need to be done? it doesnt need to be super detailed, just so i can go back to my boss and say "this is what we need... i can't do that"

I have a challenging ask from my workplace. Its something we have never had to do before, and cant think of the best place to go for help. We have 10 remote sites providing security to a town centre; each site has equipment wired into a PLC, and a Netbiter that alows us to monitor and control the equipment remotely. The customer has requested that they be able to activate all 10 sites simultaniously at the press of a button; unfortunately the Netbiters are unable to be controlled as a group, so each site would need to be activated individually. I was thinking if it would be possible to use a POE Relay to provide a signal into the PLC and acivate the system, and use port settings on a switch to turn them on or off? Some of the sites have 4G routers to connect the netbiters and an intercom, some only have 4G netbiters, so we may have to get 4G routers for the sites that dont have them. Assuming that all network ports can be activated at the same time, we would need a way of sending the activation signal... personally i would like a web page, with a single massive red emergency button, for the dramatic touch. The netbiters can also be used with an API to intergrate it with other systems, but i dont know if this is of any use. Apologies if this is worded starngley (or completely wrong), I dont deal with network stuff and know very little about it. Is something like this possible? the only other thing i can think is to try and link all the PLCs together, but that sounds evern more difficult.

sticking the drove to the bottom of the case wont cause any issues, just dont move it while its turned on and you will be fine

are you able to remove the hard drive cage on the bottom? it would let that bottom intake fan have better airflow to the GPU. If you are unable to remove the cage, can you get another intake fan on the base of the case? having fresh air directly blowing up to the GPU would help, this would require fixing some feet to the case to left it a tiny bit

they are arctic fans, i have them fixed to the base, but because its a smaller case the space between them and the GPU is pretty small. I have 2 for intake for the GPU, and 2 for exhast on the top, these are all connected to the motherboard and are all cranked to 100%. I also have two on the CPU AIO which regulate themselves

I have the ASUS ROG Strix 1080ti, running at either 4k 60hz, or 3440 x 1440 144hz. Temps are very good, rarely go over 60c despite some games keeping the usuage at 100%: I have removed the shroud and fans, and pointed two 120mm fans at it that are also on 100%, so im sure that is helping. at idle it sits around 20c

I currently have two 120mm intake fans directly in front of my GPU; I removed the original GPU fans and fixed the Arctic 120mm fans to the bottom of the case so they were right up against the heat sink. I also have two 120mm exhaust fans at the top of the case. All 4 of these fans are run through the system fan header on the motherboard. When I'm playing a game I crank these fans to 100%, I get great temps and the noise is basically none existent over the sound of the game itself. I would like to be able to drop the fan speed when I'm not running any games, just to cut the noise level and save the fans from an early death. Is there a way to change system fan speeds without restarting the PC and entering the bios? maybe through software? I'm trying to avoid a fan controller because my case is packed already, and I don't think it would fit

Restarted my PC a few more times and it fixed itself, no idea what was going on, gamespass works now too.... i hate computers sometimes

For whatever reason, windows 10 has decided to rename everything it can to just the first letter of the original name. for example, the shortcut to the downloads folder is now called D, I deleted it and made a new one and its still called D. I dont know if this is going to cause issues in the future, or if it can be changed back. Im also having trouble getting xbox gamespass to sign in/sync my account, and i dont know if this is due to the renaming of files or if its just an issue with microsoft. The app is signed in, but when it tries to sign me in to play a new game, it spits out an error code

There isnt much space for an air cooler, the Silverstone AR06 will fit, but with just a couple of mm each side. I have pre-ordered an arctic 240 AIO instead, and a new power supply to allow for a 2nd exhaust fan

That, and the cooling in general wasnt very good. I like the NR200, its a good size and the cooling is excelent

I got an NR200 about a year ago and have been using the AIO from the H1 to cool the CPU, I have also been using the PSU too. I have 2 fans in the base of the case blowing directly onto the GPU, the radiator of the AIO on the side of the case, which has restricted me to 1 intake fan on the side as it is a 140mm rad, and a single exhaust fan at the top of the case as the PSU is blocking the location to mount a second fan. This layout gives me 3 intakes, and 1 exhaust, it works well for temps but has been struggling the past couple of weeks due to a heat wave in the UK. I want to change out the AIO for a normal air cooler to get 2 fans pulling air in the side of the case, and then one fan on the CPU cooler. I bought the alpenfohn black ridge because of the low profile design, but it doesnt fit in the case. It either hits the GPU, or the RAM/Motheborad power cable. I also want to get a proper SFX PSU to allow for 2 fans atthe top of the case. This layout would have given me 4 intakes, 2 exhausts, and an extra fan on the CPU cooler. I am thinking i may have to get a 240 AIO instead now, but i would like to stick to air cooling just so i can pump as much air into the case as possible.

I am putting in a separate 120gb m.2 for my windows install but have just noticed the 2 drives have different pins. My plan was to bury the boot drive inside my pc and have the other on the back of the motherboard, which is much easier to access. I'm assuming the 2 drives are compatible with the same slot, but I don't want to risk it

It was set to manual activation, I check for updates every few weeks so its not really an issue, but that fact it all went wrong while i was just browsing online confuses me a bit. I had no issues, then it just stopped working

changed updates from manual to automatic and restarted the computer, still having the same issue. give out 0x800700c1 every time. How big is the windows 10 install? might get a small drive for it, currently got a 1TB M.2 for everything

no, got 450GB left

I was watching stuff on youtube last week and all of a sudden my internet just crapped out and wouldnt connect. I normally use a wired connection, but now i can only connect with wifi, and i only get 2 bar signal from where my PC is located. I checked for updates and found i was supposedly missing important stuff, and although i have attempted to update and install multiple times, the proces always fails. I googled the error code and nothing useful really comes up. will i have to reinstall windows 10? I dont want to have to download all my games again, and mess about installing all the launchers and other software i have.

just a personal preference. The H1 looked nice but the thermals were pretty bad, the NR200 is much better

I changed my case to the coolermaster NR200P yesterday. I can only use one of the top fans as the power supply plug gets in the way, am I just being stupid? The power supply is the 650w PSU from the H1 case. I cant lower it down or the cables plugged in for the rest of the parts are blocked by the graphics card

I was changing my case today and the usb 3 connector broke off in my motherboard, the blue cover popped right out the end of the cable and got mashed up while i was removing it from the board. I was planning on selling the case to get a bit of money back but cant really do that now. is it easy enough to replace the cable? the case is the NZXT H1

Budget (including currency): £1500 - £2000 Country: UK Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: AAA Games, open world, shooter, etc... I am planning my new build for when all the stock avalability is sorted out, so the main components won't be getting purchased until late 2021. This is the Parts List so far, it may change based on new releases that are better suited for the build. For the CPU I am looking at the Ryzen 5 5600x. I will be using this PC for games 99% of the time, so I dont think I will see any benefit from spending an extra £130 on the 5800x. I will be using a 120mm AIO for cooling, would it be worth just getting a 240mm instead? it doesn't have to be the arctic one on the list, just depends on which is a good price at the time. Motherboard will be the Aorus B550I Pro AX. I like the design, even though i wont be able to see it, and it has two M.2 slots, allowing for a storage upgrade should I need it. This board may change depending on newer releases allowing for more performance from GPU/CPU/etc... RAM is G.Skill Ripjaws V 32GB DDR4-3200, little bit overkill but i already have it in my current build so it will be moving over and RAM is expensive. Storage is a 1TB M.2 SSD, this is also in my current build so no point in buying more yet (unless it gets really cheap). For now the GPU is the RTX 3080 Strix, currently have a 1080ti strix and its great so i am sticking with the brand. This may change to the 3080ti, just depends on the availability and price to performance over the normal 3080. I am thinking of removing the fan shroud and using two 120mm fans to cool it instead, the card will be face down at the bottom of the case so airflow wont be great with the stock fans. I will be doing this with my 1080ti soon to see if it is worth doing in the future, just not sure whether to have air blowing onto the heatsink and into the case (exhausting out the top), or having air pulled through it and straight out the bottom of the case. Based on what i have read, a 700w PSU should be enough to run all this, BUT I have seen people recommend at least a 750w PSU. I will look at bumping that up to 750w or even 800w if i have to. Already ordered a Cooler Master Masterbox NR200P (Best name, good job guys) to replace my NZXT H1. For the mean time I will be using the AIO and PSU from the H1 until I purchase a replacement, then the H1 can be sold. I could get the PSU and cooler early to get rid of the H1 sooner (which sounds like a good option) I know 12 months is a long time to plan ahead for a PC, so heres hoping next year will go by as fast as this one did.

I travel a lot for work and mobile games just aren't cutting it. I do have a 3ds but don't really have many games I want to play on it, instead I am looking at getting a switch. There are a few games I want to play but I'm not sure how they will perform while being used as a handheld. Another thing is the price, they are still quite expensive and so are the games. I don't want to drop £500 and get disappointed

I am getting black screen during the more intense moments of Doom, they last for a couple of seconds but the game continues in the background. I have dropped settings to high at 3440x1440 and apparently its using less than half my VRAM so i dont feel like there should be any issues. I have noticed this happen just once playing halo earlier, could my GPU be getting too hot? maybe dying?

I want to play the new AC game, but the performance in origin and odyssey was a bit wonky with my current build. I dont know if that was due to lack of hardware or just a poorly optimised game. I got around 60fps when in the open world, which isnt too bad, but the FPS tanked when indoors (tombs/ruins/etc...) and in cutscenes. would it be worth waiting until i upgrade (around christmas 2021)?

personally not a fan of the case getting so hot.