grimreeper132

As the title asks, I am making a small programme which in which I need to generate a audio output using text to speech (preferably in a wav format). This is going to be used for a TTRPG game (creating audio for robots etc. so it's ok if it sounds robotic)

What is a good text to speech add in which I can use.

I have a couple requirements for this

1) This is a home project, with no budget, so it should be Free

2) It must have access to a number of different voices, more the better, I will need at least 10-20, I am happy to install custom voices packages here, as long as it's not too much of a pain

3) It should be reasonably easy to interface with, but I am willing to deal with some level of difficulty

4) Additionally, it would be ideal if I could run it locally on a laptop, encase I don't have access to the internet when running it, as I may be using this for an in person game. However, if this isn't possible I am happy to require the internet, but it must still be free.

Any questions please ask.

Hey, so the basic run down is two months ago I lost my bluetooth adapter for my headset, which I have had for the last 3 years.

Since then I have bought two separate replacements, which have both broke within 2-3 weeks. With the fault being both time the actual 3.5 mm jack breaking, probably due to the movement and pressure in my pockets. 

Because of this is I am looking for a good quality bluetooth adapter, which can survive a large amount of abuse (I will probably drop it alot and stand on it too). Does any one have any suggestions (budget is up to £50)

Any questions please ask

Thank you in advance. 

Hey, its a pretty simple question, in theory. Is there an easy way to automatically back up my phone on my NAS (its running FreeNAS). Ideally this would be able to done over the internet, not LAN. Any questions just ask.

2 minutes ago, Hairless Monkey Boy said:

Many an AOE II game played using Hamachi.

Is there a free version of Hamachi to use or is it all the paid version?

As the title suggests I have an old game (Settlers Heritage of Kings) which has the ability to play wiith others over LAN (Also online, but I believe the servers were shut down, so I believe the only way now is over LAN), so I was wondering how I would set it up so I can play this game with a friend.

I am assuming this possible through setting up a VPN, and having them (or myself) remoting into the others network and playing there, however I am unsure on how to set up a VPN, and what VPN to use.

Is there any other easier method to do this or is this the only way???

27 minutes ago, cmndr said:

For a simple NAS, the CPU is 100% overkill. Energy efficiency will probably matter more than raw performance.

I would suggest clarifying your goals. Do you just need to store a bunch of things?

If I had to pick parts out of my rear (and I'm going off of US prices)

1. CPU - 5600g is fine if you don't mind going overkill. 5650G could also work if you find it cheaper. You might even be able to get something cheaper like a 2200g. I'd probably go for an i3. Cheaper is better here.
2. RAM - if you have 32GB already use it. Otherwise look for server pulls with ECC support.
3. Board - You're probably fine with what you're looking at.
4. NIC - consider something faster if you go AMD. I'd say toss some cash at either a 2.5Gbps NIC or if you're adventurous $30ish at an ebay SFP+ card that'll do up to 10Gbe. Do note you'd either need to directly attach your NAS to a computer or buy a switch (think CRS-305 with possibly one SFP+ to RJ45 transciever) and a DAC cable.
5. Do you NEED those exact HDDs? If you go RAID 6 you'd probably end up with 6x 6TB HDDs from server pulls vs 5x6TB in RAID 5 new. This could save you cash, increase reliability and generate a slight performance bump. Be sure to get SATA, not SAS.
6. If you're going ZFS, consider spending $10ish or even $20ish for the 1 or 2 16GB optane sticks for L2ARC. This give a bit of extra cushion if you run out of RAM. Also be aware that by default linux versions of ZFS default to half RAM being used for ARC. You probably want more like 95% being used for ARC if this is a single purpose box. You might need a PCIe break out card. These are between $10-15.

7. PSU - consider something lower wattage with higher efficiency. Using back of the envelope numbers - 150W CPU + 15W * 6 HDDs + 50W other = 290W peak load. You can probably get away with a ~400W PSU. Go for something VERY efficient.

The storing a bunch of things is the main purpose, maybe a couple other minor things.

1- I think I will be going intel because minor issues with the AMD (mainly with the SATA ports)

2- Yea I already own it, so it'll be easier to use that

4- My entire networking system currently is 1 Gbps, so faster at the moments not a massive help

5- I don't need those exact HDDs, however ones rated for NAS use would be preferred. I am plaining to use RAID 6 or ZFS alternative so I have a 2 drive redundancy, however I will look further into it at the time.

6- That isn't a bad idea, I was planning to SSD cache it, but I will look into that

23 minutes ago, Dutch_Master said:

For a NAS, CPU speed is not the primary concern. Power usage is, especially in current times. AMD is much more efficient in this aspect. In either case, your bottlenecks will be network and drive speeds. Now, IDK how you intent to set up your NAS, but anything that includes RAID 0 (or similar) is effectively gambling your data.

 

As stated, the current CPU choices are overkill for a NAS, I'd suggest a Ryzen3 based APU or Intel i3, 9th or 10th gen will suffice.

 

Also note that your setup requires some additional attention as there seem to be some issues, as indicated by the tool. You may need to alter your config anyway.

I am planning to use RAID 6 or similar so I have a 2 drives for redundancy
as for the CPUs, yea I get they are overkill, but the price difference between R3 and R5, is about £20, and for the i3 I think its about £10.

As for cooler, I think both come with an stock cooler, which should be good enough for my purposes.
Yea, I think the intel system might be easier, cause I just noticed 2 SATA ports get disabled causing the issues there.

So I am wanting to build a new NAS. It is just going to be a simple NAS, not doing too much more than that, maybe running some minor additional programmes, but nothing major.

The budget is around £1000 and I'm in the UK.

Side note, I have a 32GB of DDR4 from an old system, which I will use. (Yea I know its overkill for these CPUs).

I have an intel build

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/wJLGcb

And the AMD build

https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/Dxz4nt

I think from what I can see, the intel 11400F is slightly faster than the 5600G, in most applications. Although I could be wrong, as this is just from a sketchy youtube video.

So I am having issues with discord and voicemeeter as there is extreme crackling on the line.

Current set up is the following

Mic -> U-Phoria UM2 (when listening to this audio through direct monitor, no issue)

U-Phoria UM2 -> Voice meter (when listening to this audio by passing it through to my output, no issue)

Voice meter -> Virtual Cable -C (this seams to be where it is occuring, although I can not see why)

Virtual Cable -> Discord (I don't think any extra issues are occuring here)

What can I do to help/fix this problem, I am unsure what extra information would be useful, so any questions just ask, as I am stuck.

Do you know what video you say them on?

As the title says really, I want a new phone, and my budgets about £500.

The main things I am intrested in are

Battery Life

Camera

Headphone Jack (not required but would prefer it)

128 GB storage+

Any suggestions???

Thanks in advance.

Corsair being reviewed
Be quiet, teir B (midrange systems)
Seasonic Core GC - Teir B
Seasonic Focus - Teir A low priority units - minor issues or lack of info

Out of those 4 the focus is the best

Other Options

One Solution is if you wanna have just one cable is to have a PCIE Thunderbolt Card which accepts a HDMI or Display port in you could then run this set up ot your desk and then output the video again and also pass the Thunderbolt adapter for USB needs. Also I'd recommend using wireless keyboard and mouse to make life easier in general with this solution

Other solution if you can get away with just a keyboard, mouse and monitor you could get a Wireless HDMI Adapter to send it from your PC to your monitor and use wireless keyboard and Mouse, but don't expect good framerates or resolution with this

27 minutes ago, ImAlsoRan said:

Basically just when you need to extrude a new material you can manually switch them out and have the printer pause. A far more budget option.

Problem is although theoretically possible I would need to do that repeatably, to the degree it will not be fesable.

2 minutes ago, TheRandomness said:

Less just repeatedly pausing and swapping materials, and more inserting another printed part like you would if you paused a print to insert a bearing.

As I said above the two materials are far to intertwined to do that, so the swaping of materials would be required, but it would happen too often to be practical

22 minutes ago, ImAlsoRan said:

If it's just a couple of small projects you may want to go check your local library. Here in the US several of them offer "maker spaces" with utilities such as 3D printing, CNC, etc.

Unforchantly I don't  know of any places like that in scotland.

18 minutes ago, TheRandomness said:

You're asking a lot of your potential machine.

If anything, you could get an Ender 3 V2 / Ender 5 and just upgrade the hell out of it. An E3D Chimera as an upgrade with their stainless steel/nozzle X nozzles (as you want to print abrasives) would fulfill the print two things requirements -- though that would require firmware changes and most likely, you'd need to upgrade the mainboard.

 

And, as you want to print abrasives, that somewhat limits your choices. With a requirement for 0.2mm wall thickness you'd want a 0.15 or 0.2mm nozzle, but it's not recommended to print abrasives through such a small nozzle due to the increased risks of clogs.

 

Why do you need to print 2 materials simultaneously? Is it inherent to your design? Or can the part be changed in such a way as to avoid this requirement?

yea thats fair, the design has it inherent as one will needs to be embedded in the other, its ok if they don't join as long one is inside the other. And good to know, as I said the thinness is something I can compromise on, so thats not a problem. As for modding/making my own I am open to that idea and might start looking into it, and I am open to writing my own firmware, as I am not a complete noivice on that side....... in theory we will see in practice.

8 minutes ago, Kilrah said:

The dual extruder requirement pretty much blows your budget straight away and severely restricts your choices.

Yea I did have a look and saw a couple, but yea its fair to say its not the standard.

Hey, so I have a couple of stupid projects I would like to try and for them I need a 3D printer so whats a decent 3D printer that meets the following specs. I am willing to build it myself so thats not a problem

Main Requirements (this can't be compromised on)

Max £500, but round £200-300 is much prefered

Should be able to print 2 materials simultaniously
Filament Fed (PLA and ABS and Weird PLA composite types e.g. Wood Filament)
Should have a nice finish (I am willing to sand etc but a nice finsih is nice)

Print Bed should be at least 200 mm by 200 mm (bigger is fine, smaller is ok, but as long as its by only 10 mm or so)
 

Additional Requirements/Nice to haves (I would love for it to meet all of these but drop them if the price becomes stupid)
Able to print the 2 different materials through 2 different nozzles
Able to print Metal (especially copper)
Accurate, more acurate the better
Hot Bed

Able to print small sections (e.g. able to print something thats 0.2 mm wide, at the moment however 1mm probably is fine)

Thanks in advance for help, any questions just ask and I will answer as much as possible

OK so there is no GPU on the R7 but you have a decidcated already no matter how "good" it is it will work although not sure how your gaming will go on it, but its also probably the best your gonna get.

I downgraded the motherboard slightly to a ASUS PRIME B550, still has PCIE 4.0 etc and is fine but its $30 cheaper and the main difference seams to be theheatsinks and integrated heatsinks. It doesn't support the new USB3.2 header for type C but that being said you can get a cheap $5 to adapt a standard 3.0 to this.

I put the money saved into a better SSD, which is a 1TB PCIE 4.0 Saberant one.

I changed the power supply to a MSI 650W which is $15 more but is a fully modular and Teir A (Amazon link is broken but the newegg link works for me)
Changed the RAM to G. SKill Trident Z mainly because the rest of the build is black and your corsair RAM was white and would stand out more, also the G Skill is about $8 (with the rebate, $18 dollars without) cheaper and are just as good.
 

As for the CPU I would love to say get a Zen 3/5000 Series but your chances of getting one at MSRP is about the same chance as you winning the lottery so I would say but a 3700X at the moment and upgrade to one when you don't need to sell your kindey just to have the pleasure of thinking about buying one.

10 minutes ago, Crafter King said:

If he is going for designing then get nvidia Quadro GPU which is made for designing and animation stuff.

Depends on how into he is, as at the moment no one can get any GPUs and the quadros are really expensive, and considering this PC costs about $1000, I have a feeling a quadro isn't in the budget unless  they buy one secondhand.

18 minutes ago, Crafter King said:

No GPU? Cause ryzen 7 don't come with integrated GPU, even though for light gaming you need a GPU or igpu.

As for the integrated Graphics he said they have a cheap low end GPU, this is probably not good enough for everything they wanna do but they should save their money and wait till they can actually buy something decent.

Its hard to say what the value is so its hard to recommend a components however it looks like it's an C0603 Capacitor, and I would imagine that the voltage should be around 10V. As for its value again unless I had the schematics I couldn't tell you but a 100n is very common. So I would guess its a 100n 10V C0603. Hoever that is with no real knowledge of the schematics just on looks and guesses. To be safe though buy a 100nF (0.1 uF) 100V C0603 Ceramic Capacitor. they are normally the same price or cheaper than 10V anyways.

Don't blame me if it doesn't work this is all guess work and more from knowing whats standard for SMD

49 minutes ago, HenrySalayne said:

I'm unable to recommend any microphones in particular but I would advise to just spend your entire budget on a microphone. The UM2 is not great but good enough. The AT2020 seems to be a solid choice. You should also get a pop filter, a decent XLR cable and a microphone boom arm as it doesn't come with all of these thing.

I have the boom and pop filter already so don't need another one

If anyone finds this in the future, I believe my issue was with the Motherboard, as I think it had a dodgy Ethernet circuitry, and replacing it fixed the problem

1 hour ago, The Flying Sloth said:

Link in my signature may be of help to you, I go over the input side there, when it comes to headphones I will step back and let someone else cover that.

Headphones aint a problem for me at the moment I have a good enough pair at the moment

as for the mic, I have had a wee look through everything there, but I can't find aby of the mics that you recommend on amazon, so where could I get them in the UK??? Or is there any other alternatives you would suggest???

As the title says, whats a good audio setup for about £150, its pedomently the microphone I need to set up as I have a good set of headphones, but my microphone and interface is a bit lacking I feel, current setup is:-
Behringer U-PHORIA UM2

A cheap XLR Mic

What would be the best option for an upgade??? I was thinking of getting a Depusheng HT4 and a Audio-Technica AT2020, but I am not knowledgable enough to know if these are great parts or not, especially at this price. Any help would be handy, thanks

I have a new PC that i built myself, specs below. My problem with it is that when I first turn the PC on from sleep/fully off in the morning about 2-5 minutes after turn on it will randomly crash (no blue screen, straight off) and then restart itself, but after it restarts itself I have no issues for the rest of the day, unless I turn it off for an extended period for any reason. I am unsure how to fix this, any suggestions???

Specs
R9 5950X

Zotac RTX 3090 Trinity

Corsair Vengance 64GB (2X 32GB) 3600 MHz
ASRock AM4/X570 Steel Legend

Define R6
Corsair HX 1200W

On 12/10/2020 at 7:52 PM, HelpfulTechWizard said:

How the fuck did you manage to scorch the pins?

I think he bent the 2 pins, and they touched, I dunno, I didn't do it, but it was the VSS/GND and VDDCR_SOC pins that were touching and I think he realised he fucked up when he turned it on and they shorted.... I could be wrong
 

On 12/10/2020 at 7:54 PM, ShrimpBrime said:

looks like one of the solder pads is completely removed too. There's no saving this one.

Theoretically, if there is no internal damge it will be fine....

On 12/10/2020 at 8:03 PM, HelpfulTechWizard said:

hack into AMD and check their pin out diagrams?

I mean if you look hard enough you can find a reddit post about it, as I mentioned in my post it was the VSS/GND and VDDCR_SOC pins, with alternatives next to them so theoretically it was fine

On 12/10/2020 at 8:04 PM, ShrimpBrime said:

No, slap it in the board and turn it on. If it doesn't boot, throw the cpu in the garbage.

I think thats the plan if he doesn't want it, as you know, I do have 32Gb of RAM, an old PSU and a dodgy GPU and/or a graphics adapter (saying that second GPU is a GPU is an insult to GPUs, it's about 12 year old now) lying around so yea, might try that..... not trying it on any of my good hardware though, I aint damaging my good desktop.... dorta hoping he doesn't want it so I can do this now as I get to keep it if he doesn't want it after this

On 12/10/2020 at 8:11 PM, -rascal- said:

 

Or give it to me...

I'll snip ALL the pins off, and make it into a keychain ... or display item (along with my Athlon XP 1700+ rev T-Bred CPU  )

That sounds like a plan.... apart from the giving to you part.... might make it for myself, to continue the outnumbering of keychain dogles compared to keys, its currently 6 to 2... we need to improve that

Just now, Master Disaster said:

Its safe in that its not going to damage a board in testing. Whether it will work or not is another story entirely though.

Yea, I will give you that, thats fair.