JacobKS

Okay, so there's an old saying, "What you don't know, won't hurt you." While that may be true of some situations, it isn't in this one. In this situation, what you don't know can actually seriously harm and kill you and others. Posts here give me the impression that you are in the Phillipines, and that US-style electrical wiring and plugs / receptacles are used there. Forgive my ignorance if I have misunderstood, but the information I give here is still accurate.
 
Here is an image depicting US-style receptacles and plugs, a chart indicating AWG (American Wire Gauge) requirements according to circuit length and current draw. A chart depicting what AWG correlates to in wire thickness can be found further down. The chart directly below, from left to right, indicates the AWG required for safety in correlation to the amperage load column it is in, based on the top-to-bottom progression of distance the circuit travels. I'll explain this further below.
 

 
Quick and dirty, electrical current is measured in amperes. Though mixing liquids and electricity should never be done and is extremely dangerous, just for the purposes of education for the moment, think of wire size as similar to pipe size. Just as larger pipes can carry a higher volume of liquid, the larger the wire, the more current it can flow. So think of current as a volume measurement of electricity. That volume of flow is measured in amperes, while voltage is merely a potential of that current that determines how weak or strong that current can be.
 
However, because higher current draw requires larger wires, this also increases impedance, or resistance, in a circuit. When that current travels longer distances, such as through an extension cord, it increases the impedance (resistance) in the circuit, which increases potential for heat buildup and overload, which are extremely dangerous.
 
The left side of the picture shows US-style plugs and receptacles. The plug and receptacle on the left are what you are using, which is fine for low-current loads of less than, say 3-5 amperes that are okay to operate without an earth ground. The ones on the right are thicker and add an earth ground, which provides protection against overloading, overheating and short circuits.
 
The cord you are using is ungrounded, which is quite dangerous due to the load (current) it is being expected to carry. That's one problem. With residential and commercial / industrial alternating current, larger amperage loads of over 1-3 amperes generally require a grounded plug and receptacle, as shown above. If your receptacles are ungrounded, they and their wiring should be replaced with those that comply. Alternately, there are adapters available that can help reduce the risk of shock, but they do nothing to reduce the risk of overloading or fire.
 

 
The other problem is that the electrical load it is being expected to carry (the equipment being powered) is higher amperage and requires larger wires in the first place. Also, the added length the power must travel increases resistance, and thereby amperage and wire size requirements. Think of this as similar to your ability to carry a certain weight a certain distance before you must stop to rest. But in the case of an electrical circuit, electricity will not simply stop to rest. Overloading can and will increase risk of and cause potentially fatal electrical shock, overheating, and fire.
 
To explain the chart on the right further in order to help you understand, wire size is generally rated in terms of AWG (American Wire Gauge), indicating the required thickness of the wire in order to safely carry a certain load a certain distance. However, remember that the AWG rating system is backward in that lower AWG means larger wires, higher AWG means smaller wires. So a 4-gauge wire is actually larger than a 10-gauge wire.
 
So basically, the wires in the cord you are using are too small for the amount of electrical current needed to power your PC, which poses a risk of overloading, overheating, and fire. But the load your PC puts on the circuit requires a ground in the first place, which compounds the risk of electrical shock as well. Without an integral ground, electrical current will have the potential to "jump" (arc) to a source of ground, and it will take the path of least resistance, which is likely to be anything nearby through which it can travel. And this is very dangerous, because the electricity present in household and commercial / industrial settings is very high voltage and can kill you, for the reasons cited above. So don't trust the 1000W rating listed on that cord's package, the wires are clearly not capable of handing that kind of current draw. Unfortunately, in many parts of the world, electrical loads and potentials are horrendously mis-rated, misunderstood and generally disregarded, and this is VERY dangerous, even to the point of being fatal.
 
To help you better understand the correct size wire needed for a given load and circuit length per the above chart on the right, here is another chart explaining how AWG translates to diameters in millimeters and inches.
 

 
 

Those are heavy weapons, or at least the Great Axe is, as indicated by the two-handed attribute. There's a skill in the skill tree that allows you to dual wield those.

Rting's latency measurements are incredibly flawed, and entirely useless for basically anything. With one PC, they have the mouse click trigger a speaker, and by recording on a second PC and visualizing the output with a spectrogram, they compare the time from when the mouse "clicks" to when the speaker plays. This doesn't sound like too bad of an idea to begin with, but the audio pipeline is notoriously prone to latency fluctuations which causes the margin of error to be larger than what they're trying to measure in the first place. Also, with two PCs they've effectively introduced twice the number of variables they have to control when it comes to latency.  That's not all either - on mice with optical switches (like the Viper lineup), the light shutter doesn't always close at the same instant the click is generated, which invalidates any audio-based comparison for them even if it was done properly.
 
Their measurements suck to the point that their database isn't even internally consistent - if you look through it, the Naga Pro in Bluetooth mode (notoriously slow wireless protocol) is shown to be faster than basically all wired mice, the Burst Pro/Core (which have identical PCB and firmware where clicks are concerned) have wildly different measured latencies, several wireless mice are measured as significantly slower when plugged in, etc.
 
Now to your question - the reason why Razer advertises such a low number is because they're only accounting for the isolated peripheral latency, which should at maximum be the polling interval (0.125ms in an 8000hz mouse) assuming that it's not being delayed by something else (usually debouncing). Razer doesn't advertise the end-to-end latency, because that number will vary enormously from system-to-system based on factors like monitor refresh rate, server tickrate, programs in the background, and a million other things. Their numbers they get on their test beds will not be the same as what most of their customers will experience.
 
It is possible to get a picture of what the Viper 8KHz's latency looks like beyond what Razer officially advertises, though. Using the bump test against the Ikari Optical (generally the baseline for such things), the 8KHz registers at under -1.0ms with a bit of fluctuation due to the polling rates of both. Nvidia Reflex indicates the Ikari is 1.5ms to real time, so Viper 8KHz is at least within the 0.5ms range (from click to PC registering). Razer's internal, unofficial testing with a USB analyzer (more accurate than bump test) shows 0.08ms to real time from when the poll hits, meaning the most realistic figure is just over 0.1ms from when you click to when the PC receives the input. All in all, we can quite confidently say that it is the fastest mouse on the current market by a good margin, even when taking Razer's marketing numbers with a good load of salt.

Sorry for the necro, but this youtube video (from an underappreciated channel IMO) covers this topic: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbu3ySrRNVc
 
tl;dw: The answer is no it wont.
 
Even when you plug a USB SSD into a hub with your gaming mouse and do a large file copy with that SSD, the input lag is extremely close to what you would get plugging it directly into a port on the rear of the mobo and pretty much having the USB to itself. There might be a tiny difference but it's probably margin of error and is only 1-2 ms.

There are pokemons from every gen thus far in the game.
Just not all of them. 

https://www.ps4storage.com/largest-hard-drive-for-ps4/

Those items are only for the story mode.  You needed to get the Ultimate edition to get any multiplayer items and bonuses.

When purchasing any 144hz monitor, I would always ensure your pc is able to run at that framerate at the resolution you want. My PC has a 1070 in it, and it is unable to run games at the 1440p 144hz of my monitor. But I do get the benefit of 144hz in older games, like L4D2.
 
Even if it cannot reach 144 fps in all games, Gsync will make things feel more smooth when its at a lower framerate.

I use Gsync on my main display, I can try to answer some of these questions.
 
It matches the framerate that the gpu can pump out down to a certain limit (I think its somewhere in the 40s), making it feel less stuttery when this happens (1% lows etc).
 
That said, if you are getting 50 fps in game, the monitor will set itself to 50hz. (Having 144hz for 50 fps gameplay wouldn't make any difference in responsiveness or smoothness, any competitive gamers feel free to correct me on this).
 
When you have fps higher than 144hz (180 etc), the display will allow the gpu to output them, but Gsync will act like Vsync except no noticable mouse lag (as a casual I do not notice) and no performance hit. (For this to work on my specific display, a game must be in borderless windowed mode for some reason, unsure if its my display or a bug with Windows)
 
Hope this helps.

It's really all down to your hardware, if your rig can output for example 120-160fps then Gsync will smooth it out at 144hz but no amount of Gsyn/Freesync will really help if your cpu and gpu aren't powerful enough.
 
You need to turn off vsync if you are running gsync. 

For my opinion if basic tasks are all being done, focus on the read and write speed of your storage by getting a 2.5' SSD or a M.2 with a high speed of read and write.

Same us for CPU, GPU, RAM, etc. it does not matter, that is why for this type of task computing this is at least the we should focus on.
 
Either way every work station will be perfectly intended for this type of task every day.

For my opinion if basic tasks are all being done, focus on the read and write speed of your storage by getting a 2.5' SSD or a M.2 with a high speed of read and write.

If by any chance the integrated would've worked with the dedicated you wouldn't get more fps. Go with the 1050ti(i am using one atm with my 880k) it works awesome. If your budget is higher you could also go with a 1060 6gb.

Even if it could i don't recommend it.
It has basically the same issues has a Xfire and SLI setup and it's usually a mess...
 
Honestly if you want the most performance for your money you need to go used.

Yes, more than enough. Not the best psu though, there are better options.

you need a lot of vram nowdays, the 6gb version is supperior because of that. i would personally go for the rx480 8gb.

Of course 6gb.
3gb is a Bottleneck even today
 
Of course not in all games.. And if you tone down the settings, it might work.
 
But 3gb vs 6gb will be the difference between Medium Textures, and Very High textures.
Between Sharp and muddy.
 
And its -10% performance reduction, because -10% shader (and a few other parts got cut off).
 
Few examples, Rise of the Tomb raider, can easy hit 5.5gb with my 1060 6gb on max (only FXAA). With 3gb you would have to use high or medium textures. 
 
Deus Ex Mankind devided takes up to 7gb on ULTRA Textures (ok, Very High Textures look 99,9% identical).
But with 3gb you will need Medium settings, that look a LOT worse.
 
And even if many games might work today. You don't buy the card for the next week. But for the next 2-3 years.
 

EDIT: https://www.computerbase.de/2016-09/grafikkarten-speicher-vram-test/
It's german, but you might read it with translator. Important are Page 2+3, there are some diagrams.
Average fps are NOT important, they do NOT show you the problems of too low Vram.
It's the frametimes, that get alot worse
 
Some terms:
Mittel = Medium
Hoch = High
Sehr Hoch = Very High
Ultra = Ultra (lol)
Hyper = Hyper
 
Texturstufe = Texture setting
Textur = Texture
 
Edit 2: Just an example, Mirror's Edge Catalyst on Hyper Textures. 
Those are the Frametimes: 
 
While such examples are more like exceptions today if you "push it to the limits", but it shows, it can be not enough even TODAY. In the Future, more games will come.
 
And Textures can make a HUGE difference on Image quality. Just check all the screenshots ^^
 
I think, Very high textures + Medium settings can look much better, than Medium Textures + ULTRA setting everywhere else.

Thanks, since I still have my Caviar BLUE  as my main storage which is 6yrs old now and no problem whatsoever and you said that SSDs is much more durable than HDDs, so yeh hahha.

TBH malwarebytes and ccleaner is enough

I have the UV400 240gb on my testbench and its great.
I have had it for about half a year, and its been flawless.
I highly recommend it for the price  

Anything is better than a Razer craptop

Dell XPS15?

What are you talking about? i3 is more than enough for light gaming.

It will be capped at 60.
 
Honestly, tearing isn't an issue for everyone. Tearing really doesn't bother me