chaython

I don't have a picture of it, and it's already sold. Here's the system. [PSU is facing up, becuase the fan was really loud the other way. There's an eco mode that turns off the fan but then there's really loud coil whine],I spent 20m trying to pull the USB 3 out, we then spent an hour trying to get the blue cap out of the board. Here's with the new h410m and 10900f, I blew it with an air compressor right after taking the motherboard out, but dusty already as we tore out our upstairs bathroom. Thanks for your interest.

Ya I was holding the socket down, grandma was pulling the header out. The header just kept breaking in on itself and pulling the socket, wasn't moving at all.

Hello, My usb 3 cord was stuck in the motherboard, we tried pliers and everything, the socket would rip off before the cord would come out... The cord did come out, but the divider / male insert [the blue part] pulled off and is permanently lodged in the board. my cord, what it should look like Anyways someone bought the motherboard, but my case needs a new divider. Any suggestions? I probably could/should just buy a $2 cable and rip it off [some cheap ebay cord that looks like the port is just taped on] , but I'm cheap and okay with jank, or maybe someone locally could 3d print for just as cheap. :x

He has said in many videos lately that he use to be an edgelord/cringekid making terrible jokes that would get him cancelled by todays standards. For the past several years he has only read news. So that's why all older videos. Cultural appropriation in recent years has been people wearing clothes considered to be of somone else's herritage. Stupid. In this wanshow you guys seem scared of being cancelled over little things too... Maybe assign one of your employees to vet older vidoes, and edit them rather than deleting your catalog, the several weeks of effort would probably be recouped in several months from the ad rev and organic growth. in this wanshow you later joke about sponsoring other tech videos, but i have seen your various sponsor spots advertised on other channels constantly over the past year

Wheres the ebay link to the card? You said we should see one at the end of the video

I have a logitech DiNova keyboard [it's missing a few keys] A Logitech G430 headset and a Logitech g602 mouse

I'm using an R7 260x; I want an AMD Polaris GPU so I may experience a sustainable 60fps on max settings in my favorite games. Thanks!

I love how close you can be for such a large display; the video makes the projectors quality look sub-par however. Why not a full review? How long does the battery last?

Why not overclock?

Well you can tell windows to use certain threads for certain tasks, for example if you start streaming x264 cpu encoding has less artifacts than any gpu encoding in real time, so you can dedicate the 4 extra threads to encoding while allocating the 4 other threads for the game causing no performance degradation when on full load... Also the I7 has better future proofing, for games in the future that will utilize more threads. I'm also trying to find an article; that I had viewed a year ago about how sandy bridge still holds up; I believe it was with a Titan or other high end card, and the 2500k was getting about half the frame rate than the 2700k in witcher 3 the 2700k had near 4770k performance where the i5 was performing more like a modern i3.

It seems 4.6 is easily do able on the 6700k above 4.7 was hard

Well for ram; I generally overclock to the higher end of the same sku. So my ram is Corsair Vengeance 2x16gb black 2133mhz 13|15|15| where the highest sku of the Corsair Vengeance 2x16gb black was DDR4 2666 (PC4 21300) Timing 16-18-18-35 Voltage 1.2V So, I just set exactly the same settings in the bios and passed, I had to raise the CAS from 15 to 16 however. This has worked for me on every kit, I've ever overclocked on. For CPU overclocking, I set standard/normal for all voltages [So it will run at its stock voltage. I then raise the multiplier, until I BSOD[within 3minuites of booting] then I'd drop it one x lower, and test stability, it usually is, if it is not I'll drop it another x, if still not stable I'd go back to the highest [non-bsod near boot] and set an offset of + 0.01 until it was stable[usually requires 1-3x] This helps me find my base; it's a very safe voltage, that won't increase wattage very much. Then from there, I'll throw a 5ghz[highest clock I've ever accessed on a chip] at highest rated safe voltage for fun; if it is stable I'll search for articles on power consumption at the voltage; I'll try lowering the voltage and clock from there to find the best perf/watt. I eventually figured I could get 4.7ghz at stock or +.01[1.33v] depending on a few other settings. where I couldn't go below 1.435 at 5ghz which increased the wattage by like 90%; where going to 4.8ghz I'd need ~1.4volts. So I stuck with voltage of 1.34 which is what it was boosting to with stock bios[no overclock] http://valid.x86.fr/822pv8

on standard LLC there was no visible vdrop; and on a high LLC it was .05v higher than the set voltage....Going past 1.44 volts whatever I set didn't seem to change the voltage reported by cpuz however....

On this board I get up to 4.7 at the same voltage as 4.4; [stock voltage] "normal" + "normal" offset and "Standard llc" [turn off auto as it will run at 1.44 volts at 4.7ghz On the gaming 5, it has usb c, usb 3.1 [both higher speed than other boards[16bg/s] at the price]. The sound card is only Realtek[1150], but has up-gradable op amp and gain switches [with the gain switches with headset slider set to off; it's at what full volume sounds like on other sound card amps. It also has a flat usb voltage on 2 ports so you get less noise when using a usb dac. Dual m.2 supports raid m.2 at 32gb/s x 2....I could goon and on; but this is the best z170 board at this price; it's like 30$ more than the cheapest z170 board and cheapest to feature any modern features [at least in Canada]

I get 5ghz on a gaming 5 / 6700k at 1.4v, and 2666mhz on my 2133 2x16gb kit Its about 170CAD here; works great, but you didn't really specify what you need in your board? I was suppose to get a $15 MIR but the rebate center doesn't have any customer support staff[called, emailed 8 times...] Also; after going through 10 boards since z77 I figured brands from best to worst: Asus> AsRock> Gigabyte>MSI MSI is at the bottom of my list; because their software is terrible, they don't necessarily use better components but don't lack IO either, they lack some power and baseclock chips etc.... The one MSI board I had used a giant jumper on an fm1 board; that would allow you to switch between vga/hdmi because the board wouldn't support both at once; and the hdmi side died[ I thought the motherboard was dead all together]. Asus is number one; and you have the budget for it; but they're definitely premium priced now-a-days; io is bad on any board under $200 in asus's line up. AsRock has the best software; has bios options to contact AsRock support; search for updates, download drivers and many recovery/support and other options; in bios you have complete access to your hdd and ssd so you can load/save profiles to the drive etc. The boards are generally lower quality from AsRock though; IO however is also great from AsRock and they build a board for every budget and form factor. Gigabyte has always been decent good io on a budge; some specific chips; bad bad software and customer support....