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About akio123008

  • Title

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    The Netherlands


  • CPU
    Ryzen 5 1600
  • Motherboard
    some board that works with the cpu
  • RAM
    8 Gigs of DDR4 2666
  • GPU
    R7 260X
  • Case
  • Storage
    500 GB crucial SSD
  • PSU
    450 watt aerocool
  • Display(s)
    some benq monitor
  • Keyboard
    benq ps/2
  • Mouse
    benq ps/2
  • Operating System
    windows 10

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562 profile views
  1. akio123008

    How to teach someone PC hardware?/Where to start?

    Were you trying to quote? Use the arrow that kind of looks like an undo arrow in ms office on the post you want to quote.
  2. akio123008

    How to teach someone PC hardware?/Where to start?

    Here's a thing; instead of "Teaching about computers" why not start with what it's really all about in the first place; physics/electrical engineering. I often find that it's relatively easy to explain computer related things to people with a good understanding of those things. It turns out that just knowledge about computers in the context that I suspect you're referring to is not as useful as you might think; knowing what an ATX plug looks like and which damned socket it's supposed to plug into is fun, but that type of knowledge isn't really valuable as you can look up that kind of stuff in 10 seconds. A deeper understanding of the underlying concepts however, has enormous value as that's the kind of knowledge and skill you don't just acquire in 10 seconds of googling. Not only is it more valueable in that sense, it also doesn't get outdated; an ATX plug might not even be used anymore in a couple of years. And sure that doesn't matter because of course you'll update your knowledge, but why would you bother remembering that kind of stuff anyway? Of course an ATX plug is kind of a dumb example, but I used it as an exaggerated example of the kind of knowledge that isn't going to get you anywhere in the world except when you're buidling a computer of a specific type in a specific era.
  3. akio123008

    I'am new to user of vpn

    What do you use your VPN for? A lot of people these days will tell you that you "really need a VPN" but I'd say that's not the case. You only need one if somehow not using a VPN limits you in some way, this is the case with viewing geoblocked content for example. If on the other hand you're just very suspicious, therapy is probably a better solution than a VPN
  4. akio123008

    What's going on with this arduino

    That makes sense, but the regulator doesn't seem to heat up at all. That's a possible solution, but it won't work at all on lower voltages, only when I go higher it works. It's almost as if it "gets used" to higher voltages and then refuses to work on lower voltages afterwards. The Cadmium batteries aren't in a great condition, but I've measured the voltage while connected to the arduino (the reading was 10.3v I believe) so it can't possibly be a voltage drop due to current draw. Also, those batteries can easily supply 10+ A, they should be just fine. The ESC being too close is a good point, but in my setup, the arduino is on the luggage rack at the back of the bicycle, and the ESC is above the front wheel (that's also where the motor is located) so there's a good 1.5 metres in between the arduino and the ESC.
  5. akio123008

    What's going on with this arduino

    Right, that makes sense, but I don't think the regulator was blown, as I've never even used it on 12v, only on 7-8 for a couple of months, and then on 11 volts for a day or so. There also doesn't appear to be any kind of visible damage. Of course I can just power it directly to the arduino's 5v rail using some external regulator, but it still puzzles me how it just refuses to work on the built-in regulator, especially since the arduino still gets power. Here's a wiring diagram btw: I don't think there's anything wrong with that, it's a pretty simple setup.
  6. I made my own electric bike a while ago, it uses a brushless motor/esc setup, where the esc is controlled by an arduino. The arduino is then hooked up to a potentiometer which I use as the throttle. Now the esc that I use doesn't supply power, so I needed an external power source for my arduino. I decided to use a 2s (8v) LiPo battery I had, connected to the 7-12v dc input on the arduino, and that worked just fine for a long time. However, over time it started getting worse, with the esc not receiving a signal from the arduino every now and then. This problem started getting more frequent, until at some point, the whole thing just wouldn't work anymore. I then hooked up a laptop to the usb port of the arduino, and reuploaded the code. What I noticed was that the power led on the arduino was brighter than with the arduino connected to the 2s lipo, and that the setup worked! so I concluded that the 8v supplied by that battery must simply be too low (as the arduino dc input goes up to 12v) Still, this is strange, since it had worked just fine for a couple of months on this lipo battery. I then took an old NiCd battery from a cordless drill, which is rated at 9.6v and 11v when fully charged. That worked really well for about a day or so, when the NiCd battery discharged to about 10,5 volts, the problem returned. So what on earth is going on here? The bloody thing worked fine on 7-8v, then stopped working on even a fully charged 8.5v lipo, then I hooked it up to 11v, it worked again, and now it even refuses to work on 10.5v(!) where it used to work on only 7. To be clear, the arduino is powered on (the LED is on too), but it doesn't send out the PWM signal on pin 5 to the esc for some reason. Can anybody tell me what is going on here? Edit: when I take a very close look at the power led, it appears as though the intensity changes a little bit periodically, perhaps the device is being turned on and off rapily for some reason, meaning that it doesn't get to the point where it starts executing the code?
  7. akio123008

    How to drive an induction motor on the cheap?

    On chinese websites you can get say a 100A 24V speed controller for like 30 USD. A VFD with the same power output would easily cost over 100. AC induction motors aren't more expensive at all, they're actually much cheaper. That's why I've got a bunch of them right here ready to use. Synchronous (aka BLDC but I hate that term) motors that run on ESCs are more expensive because of the permanent magnets inside them, induction motors don't have those, making them actually very affordable. The problem is that the equipment to drive an induction motor is expensive. I'd say that's probably because of the pure sine wave that the typical VFD generates, compared to the simple trapezoidal waveform generated by an ESC. I'm not too sure about that though.
  8. I'm planning to build an electric go-kart. I've already got the kart, now I just need to build the drive train. I was planning to get a brushless motor combined with an electronic speed controller to do this, which would be a fine solution, but then I spotted some nice AC induction motors in my dad's shed. He doesn't use them for anything, so I thought it'd be a nice idea to get one of those on the vehicle. Here's my problem though; how would I drive such a motor? I know how 3 phase induction motors work, and how they're different from (synchronous) brushless motors, and that they can therefore not be driven using an ESC. Even if they could, these motors are designed to run on 230V per phase, meaning a normal ESC doesn't provide the right voltage. Normally induction motors are driven using VFD's but those are insanely expensive so that's not an option. Even a fixed frequency inverter to drive such a motor is hugely expensive. This leads me to my 2 questions: 1. Why the hell are ESCs (which are basically inverters/VFDs and use the same electronics) so incredibly cheap (even very high power ones) compared to VFDs and inverters? 2. Is there a more simple and cheap solution that I can use to drive an induction motor?
  9. akio123008

    LiPo battery pack destroyed?

    Yep. turned out that the third cell wasn't hooked up anymore. I've opened up one of the batteries and found that all cells are fine using a multimeter. Thanks for the help!
  10. akio123008

    LiPo battery pack destroyed?

    That's what I suspected too, I guess I'll open them up then.
  11. akio123008

    LiPo battery pack destroyed?

    I've just shorted out a bunch of LiPo batteries and I've got no clue what's wrong with them now. I had four 3.5 Ah 25C 11.1v 3s batteries connected in parallel in order to power a car starter which I was using as a traction motor for my bicycle. (I know that's far from optimal, but that's what I was using those batteries for) The system worked brilliantly, until a mechanical issue caused a short. The short only lasted for a very short amount of time, as I was able to rip out the battery pack quite quickly. There are no signs of damaged LiPo cells (no bulging for example). However, there's no voltage across the terminals of any of my four batteries (0.0000 volts). Also, when I plug in a LiPo charge indicator through the balance leads, the device tells me it's a 2 cell battery, with each cell being about 4 volts. I suspect there may be some internal wiring that's gone up in smoke, meaning that the third cell in each pack is disconnected now. What's so strange though, is how every one of the four batteries has exactly the same issue. What are you guys' thoughts on this?
  12. akio123008

    Variable speed triggers, how do they work?

    All right then, I'll just hook it up and find out if it works. Since it's just an old trigger that isn't used for anything else anyway, I won't mind if it blows up.
  13. akio123008

    Variable speed triggers, how do they work?

    First of all, it's an ordinary brushed DC motor, so the speed is simply controlled by the voltage applied to it, just like the motor in a cordless drill. Exactly, that's why I want to know what kind of speed controller this is, and what kind of components it uses. Here's a picture, it's just one of those triggers for cordless drills. I know most semi-conductor based electronics don't like overvolting that much, but the thing looks quite rugged and well made so I suspect it may get the job done.
  14. akio123008

    Dutch Talk

    Opwillem voor jou makker
  15. I'm putting an electric motor on my bicycle, and the speed controller I'm planning to use is a trigger from an old corldless drill. It's rated for 16 volts, and I'm planning to use it on 24 volts. I'm guessing it's fine, but since I don't know how a speed trigger like this works, I have no idea what kind of electronics are inside, and therefore I'm not sure how much tolerance for overvolting there is. I hope someone on this forum knows how one of these triggers works. Also, no I have not taken it apart, and there's a good reason for that, the entire thing is a solid block of plastic, and taking it apart is almost impossible. Even if i'd succeed at doing so, I'd probably also break it.