Low_Battery

Because modern boards have so many checks and fail safes that if it detects anything abnormal, it will stop from performing or continuing to prevent damage to the system. Here is what I would do: -Try starting with only one RAM stick plugged in (your manual will say which slot is the best, mine says use DIMM #2). Switch out the RAM stick to a different one. -Reinstall using the default cables. If they happened to accidentally pin one of the power cables wrong, you could be delivering power to somewhere that shouldnt get it, or visa versa. Again, since you are not even getting it to post, you are limited to, and need to, rule out all the connectivity issues.

Well, that ads a whole new level of potential failure points if they pinned it incorrect. I would try with your stock cables first! Then if everything works, then move to custom so you can make sure that is not the cause. Also, I cannot tell from the picture, but it looks like you might not have the CPU power 8pin connector installed. To verify, is the 8 pin plugged into the board (see picture below)?

Is that custom braided power supply cable, or did that come with the PSU?

Yes, the battery you see on your motherboard is for the CMOS. Some motherboards have a button either on the MB or on the back IO panel to clear it, but you can also remove the battery for 20 seconds to clear.

Hi, I meant can you please send a picture of your actual installation so I can look at the connections. Unfortunately, since you are unable to even get into the boot menu, at this point you are very limited in what you can do, and need to double check to make sure everything is connected properly and seated firmly. I might be just one of the unfortunately situations where you need to RMA. However, here are the steps I would take: -Verify all you power connections. -Make sure you CPU cooler is properly installed, including not too much or too little thermal paste. You don't need much more than a grain of rice. -Reseat your RAM. If you have not already, try slot 2 and 4. If you have it there now, try the other slots. -Clear the CMOS. Try again and report.

Not enough to go off. Please post pictures or explain if there was anything that happened that might make you concerned...

how about get the 970 now, then get a second 970 later to sli

He is trying to say that a corrupt OS will result in more processing requirements, and more processing results in more heat (thus corrupt OS = more heat). While it is true that more CPU workload usually translates to more heat, the correlation he is drawing might be true in some circumstances, but isn't necessarily always true. And probably not to a significantly noticeable degree..

The amount of wattage you need will be very low and will ultimately be most impacted by the GPU you decide to go with. So...it depends. However, I would suggest going with a 550 to 600 to give you options in the future. It should last you a really long time and there isn't really that much of a price difference between 430 and 500 - 600w. As for the model, you are fine with that corsair, or any SeaSonic or XFX (there are others that are perfectly fine too, but I am less familiar). If you find a great deal on a particular one I haven't listed, good the model for a tech review and just read the conclusion section. Again, I would try and go for the k series and get a slightly less expensive MB. You are probably not going to be using the features you are paying for in the MB, particularly with a 6500, at least to their capacity, but you will be using the speed of the processor on a daily basis. Find what the best price you could get with a i5 6600k and see what difference you are talking about. Unless this motherboard offers you a specific feature that you need over the other option with the i5 6600k, then go with the i5 6600k. I would definitely recommend getting a solid foundation with your other components and saving and upgrading the GPU at a later time UNLESS you are wanting / needing to do a lot of gaming / GPU intensive activities right away. The built in GPUs in the modern CPUs are actually quite good, are perfectly fine for the day to day task you said you will be using it for initially, and can even run games like CS GO and other similar lesser to moderate demanding games quite well (respectively). Then you can add a better GPU later when you have saved a bit more and are ready to actually start using it. If there are some specific gaming titles you have in mind and want to know if you will need a external GPU to run them, then let us know which ones you are eyeing. There are tons of options and there is no one right / perfect build. But following the guidelines discussed in this thread, you will be sure to have a good solid computer that meets your needs.

There are various differences and would be best to just compare their feature set side by side on a site like newegg, or by doing a product comparison on the manufacture's website. In all honesty, the difference are pretty minor, and you probably wouldn't even fully utilize them or notice. For example, one supports slightly faster RAM, different PCI/E slot configuration, audio chipset version, etc etc... And, yes, USB 3.0 is backwards compatible and 2.0 devices will work on 3.0 ports.

Good call, always good to rule out all other potential issues before deciding you HAVE to OC or upgrade. Take care.

It might be that even though you processor is not maxed from a work load perspective, it is just simply not fast enough to keep up...

Yeah...I just realized that after I hit send....I am stumped on this one....its a PCIE 3.0 so no issue there. You should be getting better performance without all the special tweaks here and there that you might find on Youtube....something is off and I am not sure where to go from here. I'll have to think about it some more...

Which slot do you have the GPU plugged into?

How is that any different or worse than tracking the "agree" and "informative" tallies?

Ok, sorry, I thought you were linking to your monitor's specifications on an external site. Everything looks fine there...

What motherboard are you using. I wonder if it is old PCIE technology or if you don't have it in the highest bandwidth slot...

The the screen shot you took before, there was a gaming tab, but also a "display" tab. I want to see the settings in that. I did some more research and the r9 380 should be getting in 200s with everything maxed...so if it is not the CPU, then something is not configured or working properly...

Can you take a ss of your "display" setting in your AMD control panel?

Also, absent any more details, if you are not using a default config I would double check your fps_max setting in console. default is 300 i believe though, so unlikely culprit...

Well, I think it would be worthwhile to turn the tessellation mode, and even shader cache, to application controlled to see if that has an effect.

Interesting, wouldn't have guessed that. I have never used an AMD gpu, but can you take a screenshot of settings in the actual AMD utility that could possibly be overriding the game's settings?

No disagreement whatsoever :), but an i5 is a lot closer to the fx-8350 price point, and I am guessing budget is a factor given his initial choice.

even a 5th or 6th gen i5 would likely be better...

If trying to eek out as much performance as you can, can I ask why you are not considering intel?