Low_Battery

I would love to win the Tesoro Excalibur v2 keyboard! My current settup is subpar, not backlit, not mechanical, and not reliable. So yes, definitely not a Tesoro. Please hook it up! Thanks!

Do yourself a favor and use Crashz's crosshair map and welcome to the blissful world of easy crosshair customization!

P.S. I have validated the cache files in the past when I was having an issue and it worked then too.

I have had random issues with CS GO after the recent updates. Not the skipping you have mentioned, but with freezing and sluggish performance. I assume that future updates will help resolve it. You could also try uninstalling and reinstalling the game before going through all the work of reinstalling windows...I actually highly doubt it has anything to do with windows if it is only happening in CS GO, and would limit your reinstalls to the GPU driver and CS GO itself. Also, and try this first actually, but exit CS GO and right click on Steam and run as admin. Then right click on CS GO and go to properties. Then go to the local files tab and click "verify integrity of game cache." I actually just did this and found two files that didn't validate and it automatically updated them. Hopefully this will solve your (and my) issue. Good luck!

Again, there is no argument that if you wait longer, you will be able to get more performance. Personally, I am going to wait until NVIDIA's "Godot" series though.

P.S. Just look at the 980ti with 6 gigs or VRAM compared to the Titan with 12gigs, or other high VRAM AMD cards. The 980ti often case outperforms many of these cards even with smaller amounts of VRAM...

lol. Or you "PPs" regretting you waited so long for something that a) never materialized like you hoped, and/or b) doesn't give you the performance increase you thought. First, a 980ti can run 1440p at the highest settings no problem, even some games at 4k, and have 6gigs of RAM. Furthermore, what are these so called benefits of the 16nm process you speak of? Smaller die - so what? Maybe slight power cost savings, which will translate to maybe $5 a year? Also, many of the well informed believe only their top tier business class will have anything near 32gb of RAM, and more RAM doesn't necessarily translate into "boundless resolution or more textures." The games would actually need to utilize it, which likely they wont until a whole new generation of cards is available. You are welcome to your opinion, I am just explaining the other side ... the side that won't mind the PP's superiority complex because they will have been gaming at max performance for a long time, and will continue to do so even after the release..

Of course.

The exact same thing can pretty much be said about any technology product, ever.... wait longer, get more performance for the dollar. But at some point you need to jump, and if the specs, let alone the release date have not even been announced, I just don't get it waiting for stuff like "32gigs of VRAM," when 1) totally not needed and wont be utilized, and 2) will likely only be for the business grade cards...smaller die process means very little...and for his display/performance needs, a 980ti would do just fine...

I wrestled with same question and quite easily determined that it was best for me to buy now. Many of the performance increases that have been announced for Pascal won't benefit my gaming needs, and current tech was more than enough for what I was wanting for the foreseeable future. Plus, they likely will not release the entire line at once, and when they don't release the particular model you want, then what? You wasted all that time you could have been gaming? I am in the buy now, sell and buy again in future camp. But this is just a personal decision, and has a lot to do with how hard money is to come by for you or how frugal you are...

I don't think I would spend the money for mild to moderate OC, especially with Skylake - which overclocks quite easily with even air coolding. I have had mine stable @ 4.7 on a basic Hyper Evo 212 air cooler, and max temps of 75c. Basically each multiple up or down resulted of a delta of 2 degrees c peak temps, respectively. Currently I run at 4.6 with mild use at 34c and under load at upper 60s, and max of 73c. Consequently, if money is limited, then save it here and get a cheaper cooler (dont need to go air, but dont need top of line water), and use that money towards upgrading a different component. Or, if you are wanting to get into more extreme OC, and plan to include other parts in the loop, then maybe consider the Pred..

Are you going to be OC'ing? If so, are you talking mild to moderate OC, or balls to wall OC?

I don't quite understand your question. Did you change something and wondering if the change will significantly increase you electricity bill? Using a computer, which uses electricity, will always effect your electricity bill, but if you are wondering about an increase, you need a comparative state.

Have you used a utility, like GPUZ, to monitor the card while gaming? If not, I would recommend. It sounds strange, almost like a memory leak, but more investigation is needed...

Then it depends on what you are going to be using it for. More details please. Then yes, perfectly fine build

Then it depends on what you are going to be using it for. More details please.

Are you actually going to be buying this one, or is it like the $5k hypothetical dream build you posted earlier?

I recently recommended this build to someone with a ~2500 budget looking for something similar: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/visceraltech/saved/rdGp99

what MB do you have?

Good idea! lol

Assuming you/he selected the option to retain your current files, they should be there. If you don't see them, first check for "windows.old" in the C: drive and report back.

Technically you are fine up to around 1.42 to 1.45, although above 1.375 for sustained voltage is not recommended. I've had mine at 1.35v with computer on 24/7 with no issues, but will likely be dropping down to 1.3 soon. Temps are not the sole issue, though a good indicator. Is it not stable at a lower voltage?

What are you trying to do, specifically? If you are just trying to install an OS from a USB you don't need a special program...you just put the appropriate install program on the USB device, ensure you computer is set to boot from USB (by setting the appropriate setting in your BIOS), and you should be good to go...

Usually water damage on boards is quite visually detectable. It sounds like you already know the cause for your issue, so short of a professional repair where someone re-solders the damaged component, it sounds like a new MB is in order. A pic would be helpful to determine how extensive the damage is, and whether or not other components may have been impacted. Taking it to a professional repair facility may be your best option in this case, unless it was old enough just to warrant buying something new. Your data will likely be able to be recovered and transferred to your new computer.

I thought of one other thing I should have mentioned before. If you have not already, check your current BOIS version compared to the latest available and update/flash if not the most recent version.