Melchior

I get it now, my apologies. I'm from metro Detroit. Things are much different in Canada and EU I think there might be some confusion in terminology, a ballast is this (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_ballast) it is used to step up the voltage (and some black magic) to be able to power up the fluorescent lamps. To use these bulbs you would unwire the ballast. LED's do not need ballasts, they are either line level (these days) at 120V or low voltage at 12v or 24V (need transformer to step down) LED also don't have problems starting in the cold. Most commercial wiring and fixturing are rated for 600V and 660W for heat dissipation reasons. The bulbs you linked work off the same power as a wall outlet, but they might have some electronic switching internally to accommodate the whole range. You are pulling 45W per lamp 900W total for @20 bulbs, you will probably want the lights to be on their own circuit. You are only going to pull 120V 45W through each tombstone. Tombstones tend to break and get brittle with age as old Flourscent bulbs get hot before they burn out, this is why they are sold in bulk. Those bulbs are a good deal and look to be great quality, but something like this might be easier to install and cost effective as the wiring is expensive. I would probably recommend something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sunco-Lighting-Equivalent-Daylight-Integrated/dp/B0748YTDMK/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1538138099&sr=1-8&keywords=garage+lights What type of fixtures do you have in your building now? I hope its something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Metalux-8-ft-Fluorescent-White-Strip-Light-Fixture-with-2-T8-Light-Sockets-SSF-296-UNV-EB81-U/303782045?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|Base|D27L|Multi|NA|PLA|ExteriorLighting|71700000038718130|58700004245149811|92700035277638889&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3YKzhtzd3QIV1rjACh1n2gaMEAQYAiABEgIxSvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CJzxq4rc3d0CFcPIwAodJmcNgA

Those are conversion units, they are 120v AC into the assembly, those are generally expensive bulbs. (10-15 per bulb used to be 40) They are generally used in a place where the fixturing is built in, but there is easy access to bypass the ballast. The bigger challenge is that anything you make is not UL listed and generally can cause issues with insurance if anything goes wrong. You can typically find an entire fixture for less or the same as those bulbs. Also here is the wiring guide: https://www.hyperikon.com/content/installation/Tube-Double-Ended--Installation-Guide.pdf Also, I neglected to ask what part of the world you are from. Things are changing rapidly now. And typical magnetic ballasts are $10? if you need to replace one. I'm very pro LED, even before the CFL craze. LED will have a better CRI by far and lumens per dollar will be better today. I sold commercial and consumer lighting for almost 10 years and keep up with the technology, but pricing is changing fast.

You can generally find replacement Ballasts relatively cheap for both Magnetic and Electronic ones, as a whole the technology is getting outdated really quick. They are also not powered efficiently compared to newer LED assemblies that are now relatively cheap. I would not spec anything that is not identical to the previous as you will are most likely to "burn down the warehouse and blow up bulbs" Your best bet to is to replace the entire fixture as they die, as Florescent tube bubs have escalated 400% in price in the last couple years too. (some new LED conversion kits use the same ends, and they require you to bypass the ballast as they work off of 120v) EXPENSIVE. Back to the original question commercial 8-foot lamps use a single contact as they use higher power and higher mercury bulbs, hooking 120 up to it will not light the lamp and just burn it out quick. I'm not 100% sure which is more efficient these days with Electronic ballast or Magnetic.

I recommend the then too the corsair SF450 as well as I have purchased a couple.

Good catch on my assumption on the quality of fan, My few cases are of better quality and provide good high static pressure fans. I suppose an OEM computer would have junk fans.

If you are getting a Z motherboard get a processor that overclocks form the K series, with an auto overclocking program you can get a free 10-15% typically. This website (cpu.userbeenchmark) can help show the performance gain between generations of processors. I would wait and see what comes out over the next 6 months but I think Ryzen + stuff could be awesome, just keep watching LTT.

The rear exhaust fan is most likely the hardest working one in your case, find an exact replacement on Amazon or Newegg and order a replacement. It is most likely dead if you tried another power source on your board.

There is a handful of programs/calculators out there that can break down your hash rate, power consumption, and hardware costs. In a lot of cases you need to get free (legally) or very cheap power >$0.06/kwh. In a large part, it's too late. There are YouTubers that are running 20-30 machines and they break even is in 10 months.

PHP script worked great, then it sent me a receipt again. After the jokes on the WAN show last week I got a little scared there.

I hope people read this as I see that there is already 5500 posts, but everyone here needs to know. Roccat product is built well. I would say I'm very hard on my equipment. I game and I work from home. I have tremendous amount of usage hours on my Roccat Kone XTD and newer Taito 3mm mini-size mat. I have over 3 Million clicks in 2 years and there is still no wear spots on the mouse, every button is just a sensitive as the day I got it, and the cable looks like new. If or when I wear through any component on the mouse I will be ordering a replacement same day. The only thing that made my experience better with this mouse was the day I bought the mouse pad, its like the surfaces were made to work together. I'm in the market for another mouse for my work laptop as I can no longer stand using their tiny Apple Magic Mouse, I need a mouse that is full sized so I no longer need to use a claw hand and something that will take a beating. I would like a Kiro mouse, as it simple and will hold up the same as all Roccat product. Most likely I'm going to spend holiday/birthday money on a work accessory anyway, but something made this well is worth it. The only thing that I would like to see from Roccat is perhaps a simple well built Bluetooth mouse, but my Kone XTD is a close to as perfect as possible for my primary home PC. TL:DR Roccat product is made really well.