Denis_Twin

I did a lot of research before coming here, firstly the et 3850 I bought, its superior version actually, and I returned it as the Black Ink is terrible in the sense that their firmware will not print, its not BK but PB meaning purely pigmented black (while the other three are a hybrid) which means it sits on top of the paper even if you print with it. Now for the pixma, the bug was fixed on the printers released later such as G540 and G640, so I looked it up and I am only curious about whether or not the PIXMA would leave marks before the spraying process, because the ET ones do that sadly, that is one amongst many questions here.

Hi, I plan to print on trading card prototypes, I use proxies to test quality for my own game design, so that being said I have been into a lot of pain lately trying to decide between the two models, I came to realize pigment is very bad for gloss and mediocre for matte, at least the epson ones we have here, so something sub 300 euros will be okay, I have other tools ready and I plan to first print on thick-ish glossy paper (medium quality), so I need some printer experts help, I tried in the past a L3251 and it was causing marks before the inking process (spraying process), that was likely from the feed, The Inks here are harder to find for Canon at least after market ones, the total cost of inks for a full refill would be 78 Euros for canon while the total cost for a full refill for the epson would be 28 euros (cheapest I found while avoiding after market or fake inks). That being said, I care about cost of consumables as much as for the paper to not be damaged, it may or may not be polymer but I also tried with Epson on the Epson one, needless to say I DOA it and got the money back to get one of the above printers, currently I preordered both and they are ready to pick up, but I have to decide today. I will also print photos, family photos and scan/copy, print of documents etc, an all-around machine. The G640 comes with their store/franchise warranty for 4 years, and the cost is 280 euros, the epson is at 230 euros without the warranty because I ordered it from another shop. Key questions: Does the Canon also cause such harsh wheel marks as the ecotank ones? if so, is it possible to find a cheaper ink for the canon printer if I decide to go for that? I noticed the epson is faster also, according to its specs, if anyone owns or knows both machines, please help me make an educated decision, money is not an issue at this price range as I want to keep it and enjoy it, it is a hobby and I want to make it count, I will also print n' play a lot, so consider that if you can. Anything will help, I need to decide today which is why I write this post. THANKS A LOT IN ADVANCE!

Hi, yes I did those steps natuarally but nothing changed so far.

Essentially I replaced it from a DOA and it seems to have issues with printing pure black on the photo paper, which in this case is glossy, I was wondering if anyone experienced here could help, the store suggested it to me as a better alternative (official retailer, not just some corner shop), the print speeds etc are all good, its an Ink tank too which is very good for economy but it just doesnt get black printed properly, its a tinted blue black rather than black-black (K), the home grade printer I returned was providing for some reason an absolute black with ritchness, this one does not and it bothers me since I gave essentially a difference to buy it worth double the initial printer's price. It is a bit frustrating because I generally get tired of returning products more than once. Now I only bought the more expensive one because it is a more sturdy build (quality of components, work hours endurance etc) and I had the best intentions but it feels like it backfired in this case unless I can somehow get this fixed. Maybe there is some setting I missed or perhaps some gimmick that is causing this. Thanks in advance.

Hi, I recently upgraded my PC with a fast nvme drive and cleaned it then put it properly together, then I installed windows 11 with a single drive and all, nowI noticed in games the monitor is sort of losing FPS/Stutters more like (the effect of unsynced fps I would describe as) while at the same time the brightness and contrast are not in harmony, this fixes when I put the game in full screen. This effect does not happen with windows, they move smoothly, I tested on League of Legends and Warframe amongst other titles. The order of clean installation was as follows: W11->Chipset->GPU Drivers->Audio Drivers->Network Drivers->->W11 Update->Games, restart in between each step. Specs can be seen in my profile, GTX980 is the unit. Thanks in advance.

given everything and on the webstore I provided, I ordered to arrive on the store the "SSD ADATA AGAMMIXS70B-2T-CS XPG GAMMIX S70 BLADE 2TB NVME PCIE GEN4X4 M.2 2280" thats because for price per gb and since it is one of the recommended ones I decided to order that one for now, is that a good choice in your opinion? I didnt want to break a buck but also didnt want to be stingy about it and since I am sort of investing I decided to go for that, 2TB because I will use a lot of space for a combination of games and video files, not too many video files but it is good to have the extra storage considering all the data I got.

Thank youfor the recommendations, I saw that the gen3 ssds have under 3500mbps on the write and such, is that the main difference between the gen 4 and 3? and in this case will the gen 4 work on the gen 3 mobo without issues? (I may go for the S70 blade, if so I would take the 2TB one to not have to think about space all the time as it goes for 104€, what do you think?) also which of these have dram? thanks

what do you mean? so does it not support PCIe 4.0? The rest of the stats I am not familiar with. I ordered a 980 but it is only sent to the store and not to me so in this case I can cancel the order and order another, which one would you recommend in this case and for my system? I run it with a ryzen 2700X, upgrading from an older samsung normal sata iii ssd (500gb for windows) with secondary drives Seagate HDDs 2TBx2 (which seem to lag the whole system and do have bad sectors so the upgrade is sort of urgent).

correct they are and I was just wondering which one to get, as of right now we do not have any Sabrents products in the EU, as for the P5 it goes for 61 euros but I heard they dont come with DRAM right? Im not sure how impactful that would be in a practical sense of course, so the P5 is 10 euro more than P3. Also I heard bad things about Samsung 980 so even though it has DRAM from what I read, it is 30 Euro more than the P3 and 20 Euro more than P5. I generally do not know how all those stats and differences would affect it but if there are any suggestions please let me know

Hi, so I got an asus prime x470 pro motherboard with a dark rock pro a fan and decided to get a fast m.2 ssd to have as a gaming storage and windows boot, I was considering a few options for under 90 Euros and was wondering which would you recommend? I am not sure if they are compatible with my system so that would be a question to consider too. I was looking into getting a samsung 980 but I heard some negative reviews by users and considering its price I am hesitant, I plan to go with a 1TB variant after having seen the prices, that drive at least goes for 80 Euros, crucial p3 for about 50 and so on. That being said the question is, are those types of storage drives compatible? and which drive do you recommend for speed and storage space for gaming? (I wont be buying another one for sometime so it should be good) Thanks in advance!

I'm trying to install Windows 11 on this unsupported PC using the Rufus method, when booting into it from the UEFI mode it boots showing the windows 11 logo then the top of the screen gets some colored artefacts and then the computer restarts back to the old windows. What should be done in this case? When trying to boot from legacy mode it shows an error stating something about a memory error ramdisk or something and no option works. I reseated the ram and they work well anyways. I swapped the ram slots and the issue persisted. The already installed windows loads and operates normally with no component seeming to cause issues during use. The PC is a Dell Precision T3600 with upgraded compatible RAM and SSD. Thanks

Recently I got this monitor and noticed some virtually unavoidable tint to neon green-yellow and I was wondering if anyone who owns a color-meter or similar has been able to figure out the settings for the most accuracy available for that monitor, the issue is that I may start doing graphics and I need to have the monitor white balanced and accurate on the color representation. If not, then any recommendations or tips will be greatly appreciated too! Thanks in advance!

LFG Too, I play most games generally, kinda own some games, not many but not less either, I have no income yet which makes it harder to expand the library so I stick with f2p games as well, heads up if you play any good game

I recently upgraded my dual monitor setup to a new DELL G2422HS monitor, replacing my old DELL U2412M. When I first got the new monitor, I noticed that the colors were significantly different in tint from my old monitor. I tried to calibrate the colors using my phone screen and adjusting the settings, but I had trouble getting all the colors to match because I'm not familiar with all the settings. I also encountered issues with the whites appearing too yellow-green, red, or blue, even when adjusting the color settings one by one. The default modes didn't seem to work for me. I'm starting to get obsessed with the new monitor and I'm not sure if it was a good purchase or if I should return it. I got it for around 170-180$, and there was a cheaper option available (LG 24GQ50F-B) for 150-160$. Additionally, I noticed that the new monitor has a lot of gradient banding. To check if it was an issue with the image itself, I compared the two monitors. PS: Despite my efforts, the tint is still present to some extent, but now the issue is more with the colors feeling off, which I tried to fix by adjusting the contrast and brightness on my monitor. However, adjusting the settings through software like Windows calibration or the NVIDIA Control Panel only makes the gradient worse and causes banding. Gradient banding mainly occurs when I don't enable the "override to reference mode" option in the adjust desktop color settings tab within the NVIDIA Control Panel. However, without the ability to control the gamma, the whites, like letters, can sometimes have a green-yellow tint which I definitely do not want. Thank you in advance for your help!

Hey, so I was asked to help install new RAM on a friend's computer (HP ProDesk 600 G5) and the whole process went smoothly however I noticed that the RAM Speed is lower than the maximum advertised on both ram and motherboard, so I am curious on how to XMP or similar increase the speed to the maximum advertised (about 2660 up from about 2100) the issue is that the BIOS does not offer many options. Thanks