Bradders

If GPU's can run off the adapter (somewhat), I don't see why it wouldn't power the hub. 

Using daisy chained PCIe cables from reputable brands is fine. They use MiniFit HCS terminals and 16AWG wires to the first connector. So Corsair's one is fine to use, even for 375W GPUs (with 300W through the cable). Be aware that some sketchier brands (notably Seasonic) cut corners by using regular MiniFit Jr. terminals and 18AWG wires to the first connector, meaning you should not use them for GPUs with a TDP above 225W.

If you'd like to buy Corsair, this is a dual output (2x 8-pin) Type 4 cable (compatible with your SF series PSU).
 
https://a.co/d/aCYu7Z8 

Unless you are running that CPU at 5ghz, it is a big bottleneck, if you have a 1080p 240hz monitor. But if you play at 4k, in 99% of the games it will be fine, even at stock clocks.
So upgrade the GPU for now, and wait for next gen CPUs to upgrade that, if you feel like it is needed.

65-70c at load is pretty good. 

Thats pretty reasonable for a 1660Ti on full load at 1440p. My 1660Ti goes up to 87 even with underclocks with my shit airflow case. But imo, it can technically add more airflow, but the heat tradeoff between 280 to 120 is just a bad idea imo. I dont know what kind of air cooler that youll get, but it might wont provide anymore beyond accidental airflow and that extra fans freed from radiator's air resistance.

Itx boards demand a massive premium so really it would basically be cheaper to just sell the 6700k and your very very very wanted board and just swap to a ryzen 3300x + itx board combo. Little better performance but basically for free with the hardware selling and very possibly even making money of the 6700k.
 
I know it's silly but that is how it is. Many people are stuck on the 4 core 8 thread max intel stuff and really really want the 6700k or they find a very cheap i5 and want a good motherboard with it. For selling it all you really need is the board + io shield.

I have to say, I love my 6700k it has never given me issues and never slacked so I probably will try to keep it

eBay is neither good or bad in that sense, it's a platform with individual sellers on it. Buying from abroad always has it's own quirks, so whether or not that ultimately ends up being worth it really depends on who you buy from and how things work out.

PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor £311.51 @ Overclockers.co.uk Motherboard ASRock B550M-ITX/ac Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard £129.99 @ Amazon UK Memory Crucial Ballistix RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory £166.79 @ Amazon UK Storage Kingston A2000 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive £56.83 @ Amazon UK Video Card EVGA GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB KO GAMING Video Card £283.57 @ Amazon UK Case Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV SHIFT Mini ITX Tower Case £79.90 @ Amazon UK Power Supply Fractal Design Ion SFX-L 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply £100.47 @ Scan.co.uk   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total £1129.06   Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-11-11 15:10 GMT+0000    

might as well get a new CPU when you're already changing the board, the rest (aside from PSU if the case needs SFX) can stay as long as they still fit

What CPU cooler do you currently have? Also if you like bang for buck ITX:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WG2bt6/silverstone-sg13-v2-mini-itx-tower-case-sg13b-usa
 
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wzfmP6/silverstone-case-sstsg13wb
 
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CzfmP6/silverstone-sg13-v2-mini-itx-tower-case-sst-sg13p-usa
 

Since you are changing the board out you could as well just move onto a newer platform. That and your current board still fetches a pretty darn good price on the used market.
 
You could also get a really small atx case like the riotoro cr1080. It's the size of the bit larger itx cases.

You might not need a switch at all if your router provides enough ethernet ports to supply the amount of ethernet compatible devices in the house.
 
If a switch is needed I recommend this https://www.amazon.com/SYSTEMS-10-Port-Gigabit-Managed-SG35010K9NA/dp/B01HYA36SG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=cisco+small+switch&qid=1561045342&s=electronics&sr=1-1
 
It is an easy setup and CISCO is one of top rated networking companies in the world.

I think it looks like the bottom left pin on the psu connector.

still Vega 64, free sync monitor also is cheaper, save your money, drivers will give you a performance boost, once they get optimized. 

Okay guys I have seen a lot of people on here is starting to wanting to buy amps and dacs and let me just explain to you guys why you need one and why you don't need one. This is going to be very basic and generalised.
 
Reasons to get a DAC.
 
1. Noise in your sound
2. Your onboard makes the sound warm or cold sounding
3. Over all low quality sound coming from your onboard
4. Can look nice
5. You want more detail and higher audio quality
 
Reasons to NOT get a DAC.
 
1. No noise.
2. No coloring in your onboard.
3. You already have "transparent" sound. ( kinda the same as Nr. 2)
4. Takes up space.
5. You will need to buy an amp.
 
Reasons to get a amp.
 
1. You can't power your headphones. (your headphones don't get loud enough)
2. Your headphones sound muddy only at that pc (kinda the same as Nr. 1)
3. Can look nice.
4. You want to try tube sound. (they get really hot, so do NOT touch them.)
5. You want better audio quality (though keep in mind that if your source is bad then it won't suddenly sound good with a better amp)
6. Less noise
 
Reasons to NOT get a amp.
 
1. You can power your headphones.
2. Takes up space.
 
Most motherboards on the market to day can power 90%-95% of all the headphones on the market. A DAC and amp will not make your headphones a lot better if you already have "transparent" sound and they are powered properly, they can bring out more detail and overall better audio quality, but I wouldn't recommend getting a DAC and amp if you don't have good headphones, I would rather recommend that you save the money and get better headphones, expecially if you are unhappy by the sound you have in your headphones, because no DAC and amp is suddenly going to do any major change the signature of your headphones.
 
Ohm does not say if your headphones are hard to drive or not.
 
You can have 600 Ohm headphones that are easier to drive than 32 Ohm headphones. It is the sensitivity and efficiency that matters the most.
A very quick exsample of this would be the K612 and the HE 560. The K612 has a ohm rating of 120 Ohm and a sensitivity rating of 101 SPL/V, while the HE 560 has a Ohm rating of 45 Ohm and a efficiency rating of 90 SPL/mW. Using a online calculator we get these results, which shows that the HE 560 will need more power than the K612, despite the K612 having a Ohm rating that is almost three times higher than the HE 560's.
I used this website to calculate the power needed http://www.digizoid.com/headphones-power.html
 
Wnat to know how much power your headphones need and the math behind it? Look here
 
Different explanations (keeping it simple)
 
Before you go buy an amp for some headphones you just orded wait get the headphones and test them with your onboard before you go spend money on a amp.
Before you go buy an DAC amp combo, if you already has transparent sound and you have nothing wrong with your onboard DAC then you will not notice a difference between your onboard and a DAC and if you buy an DAC you will need an amp.
 
Remember sound is not black and white like some people say it is, there are more to sound than just specs.
 
Only look down here if you really need an DAC and amp or just an amp
 
Why get anything else than the cheap products?
What is a DAP? (Digital Audio Player)
 
I have used amazon.de and amazon.com for every product that is not from Schiit where I used their own webshop
 
Before looking at tube amps
A tube amp is best with headphones that have a high impedance because it is there they have their power, while a normal solid state amp normally has the most power in the lower ohms. I highly recommend not getting a tube amp for let's say 35 Ohm headphones, but rather a tube hybrid amp which is a mix of a tube and solid state amp, you get the sound of tubes while still having the power in the lower Ohms and having a lower output impedance.
 
My recommendations for desktop amps:
 
My recommendations for desktop DACs:
 
My recommendations for desktop Combos:
 
My recommendations for small Combos that run on usb only:
 
My recommendations for DAPs (Digital audio players)
 
Where do I buy schiit in EU?
http://www.schiit-europe.com/
http://schiit.eu.com/   (UK)

Where do I buy Soekris?
https://www.modhouseaudio.com/ (USA)
http://www.soekris.eu/shop/index.php (EU)
 
 
Lastly if you have interference look at this guide SSL has made.
 
If you have suggestions about gear and explanations.
If you have some gear that you would like to see added then there are 4 options.
 
Comment the gear you would like to see added and why or send me a PM, I will then look into it very thoroughly when I have time and if I find it worthy, then it will be added. Often I will get a loaner unit and test it.
 
If you want a explanation to something, then comment what you would like explained or send me a PM and then I will look into it.
 
FEEL FREE TO ASK ME ANYTHING ABOUT THIS POST
Remember there are no stupid questions, I am here to help.
I hope that this post helped you and cleared some things up for you 

What do you mean you can't use a hacksaw for everything?
You can! Bread slicing, meat cutting, EVERYTHING IS POSSIBLE WITH A HACKSAW!
 
What's your budget?

Eh. Depends on budget. Kraken coolers look and cool amazing, but don't come cheap. Bang for buck, the h100i v2 is pretty good.

the h100i V2 is actually a seriously good cooler and for the sake of a couple degrees I would keep that extra $50, the extra room for overclocking isnt really that much if anything at all as it really depends on the cpu you wind up with

interesting, never had that happen, closest thing would be turning on my amp and my lights would flicker, or push 200w through my amp and have lights dim
 
start wearing a tinfoil hat, the government may be on your ass  /s

First of all have you checked that the headphone mic works? could be that, if you have then have you installed drivers for your soundcard and is it plugged into the soundcard

looks like you're missing a motherboard. 

Hello all. I am really thinking about switching to android with the galaxy s8. I have always used ios, ever since the iphone 3g, and I currently use an iphone 6s plus as my daily driver. My iphone is great, but the galaxy s8 looks awesome and I really would like to buy one, but I am not sure if android is right for me. So I came here for your opinion, how does android compare to ios? How is battery life compared to ios? Does android run smoothly for the most part, or does it stutter and freeze? I just appreciate a seamless experience on my devices, and I have never used an android device before, so I am not sure what the experience is like. 

If you are gonna spend that much on a case, I would also get custom sleeved white cables.