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About Jz1

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  • Birthday 1998-05-02

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  1. I think the NZXT H210 and the Fractal Nano S are the best value for ITX. They are basically mini towers unlike a lot of expensive small litre ITX cases. You can fit a 2 slot gpu in both of them, but the NZXT has the PSU shroud so thermals would be better for the gpu unless its a blower card but then it would be louder. I'm certain that you can fit in the NH-D15 in both of them, but I would go for a single tower like the U14S because I would not overclock and 1 fan is better for noise and the U14S is surprisingly very close to the NHD15 in thermals even with 1 fan. Downside is that it would not fit in the Nano S but fits in the H210. You can also put in a Noctua fan setup for PWM that has the ULN adapter on for low db. Not sure what graphics card you have, or plan on buying but I would not put a 250W TDP card in an ITX system like for example a 1080 ti or 980 ti. Most I'd do is 2070 Super that has 215W TDP. And if you want the most quiet PSU then I would go with the Corsair RM550X as it has a no fan mode and also only 11-12 DB according to Cybernetics test parcour. If you end up getting an SFF Case, then you should know that the SF600 PSU is around 20DB, so I would get an ITX case that allows a full size ATX/PS2 PSU. If I was a gamer, I'd get the NZXT, but for an ITX system for work related programs I would go for the Fractal Design Nano S and throw in a 100W TDP graphics card like a GTX 1650 Super. I would get the Ryzen 7 3700X as its 65W and doesn't need to be overclocked.
  2. Still watching the video, but I wanted to see what others said, as I was not expecting this. Been watching Linus Content since 2012 or 2011... I ventured into Tech a lot because of him. He always made the reviews very interesting, and I could tell from the beginning this guy had passion for what he did. I bought a lot of things because of Linus. The most memorable one probably being the Ducky Shine 3 with Cherry Blues when mechanical keyboards were becoming mainstream, and that was 7 years ago. Linus influenced me to build my first rig in 2012 when I was 12 turning 13. If I remember correctly, it was a 2500K with 8GB of DDR3 1600mhz memory. I had a Z68 Gigabyte Motherboard and a GTX 560 DirectCU from Asus. I remember playing Skyrim on it and using console commands. Later that year, I also bought a 120GB Intel SSD for like $200 lol. I couldn't believe the speed, and yes I got it because of Linus. Nowadays I don't praise tech as much as I did back then, but dam I loved the era when the HD7970 came out and Linus would make all these interesting videos about comparisons with the 680, also I remember all the TITAN builds, that was fun. I like the new content don't get me wrong, but there was something about the older videos that the new ones don't have... I could say Linus was like a tech role model for me growing up as a tech-savy kid, and I was glad to have all the content he provided, along with the forum. PS: Slick was Awesome and made LTT even better, it was sad seeing him go into FloatPlane too
  3. HD 600 is closer to a neutral sound. It doesn't have as much bass as the 650, but the high frequencies are not as rolled off or 'veiled' as the 650. Typically, the 650 is a bit more expensive than the 600, so its usually concluded that the 600 is a better purchase. Also considering that you have headphones that are already bass heavy, I would opt for the 600 sound. The 650s have a wider soundstage and would be better suited for gaming. They both sound very smooth and can sound boring. although the 650 is slightly more coloured, it can be more interesting than the 600. Neither are wrong, it depends what your sonic preference is.
  4. Jz1

    New headphones

    DT 990 is a V shaped headphone, they have a good low end (bass) for an open back, and they also have a lot of energetic treble that some people find too bright. If you listen to a lot of vocals I would stay away from the DT 990, because it has recessed mids. Soundstage is also wide and positional audio is decent. They come in 3 different versions. 32, 250 and 600 ohm. The higher the ohm, the more difficult to drive. (600 ohm and an iPod wouldn't mix) With the higher ohm versions, I believe the bass transitions to a more tighter and deeper impact, whilst the treble gets smoother and less emphasised. I've never owned a DT pair, but I've been told that they are pretty comfortable to wear. It all comes down to amps with this one. I think on high gain, the e10k should be able to drive the 250 ohm version. Fulla 2 is also another option.
  5. The imaging and soundstage of the AD700X is practically the same as the AD900X, the only difference is the bass. If you like more bass, then get the 900 without a question. The biggest difference between those two headphones is that the AD is open and the M50X is closed. The AD is light on bass and can sound airy, and doesn't isolate as well as the M50X which is known for its V Shape sound signature and punchy bass. All though providing a good seal and isolating well, the M50x can be a very harsh and irritating headphone to wear for longer than 40 minutes due to its brightness and clamping ear-cup design where as the AD is more of a relaxed headphone that sits on your head. When it comes to soundstage and imaging, the AD is a winner by far as its open back design is perfect for the natural sound of the source and can provide great directional information, which is why its the FPS gaming king of headphones. The M40X and M50x do not compare in that regard. Also, vocals on the AD will sound better as the mids on the M50X are not there. Hopefully this information has helped you, good luck
  6. AD-700X wouldn't benefit from an amp in terms of sound quality because it is not difficult to drive, so you wouldn't notice a difference from your motherboards built in audio. If you play at loud volumes, then take a look at the Schiit line of amplifiers, they can really make a difference for gaming. If you're going to purchase a headphone from the AD line for gaming and also entertainment as you mentioned, then I would definitely look at the AD-900X and perhaps even AD-1000x if you can stretch your budget. And those also do not require amps.
  7. Hi, I purchased the iFi Micro iDSD BL for $850 AUD and I have it connected to my laptop via USB. I cannot seem to tell the difference in audio quality compared to connecting directly to my MacBook Pro 15 2018. I have tried all 3 different power modes. I have been using TIDAL to stream on MASTER sound quality with MQA and I still cannot tell the difference. With that being said, I also would like to mention that I use the HD6XX which benefits and scales with a good AMP/DAC. Upon reading the manual and visiting FAQ from iFi Audio, no drivers are required for macOS. I'm not sure what else I can try to make sure I am doing everything correctly, but so far it seems like I will be returning the unit. But before I do that, I want to be certain that theres something I'm doing wrong, and I really hope there is. If anyone can offer some advice, that would be great, Thanks EDIT: I think the problem is my choice in headphones, and not the AMP/DAC.
  8. I used a 2020 usb for a year with an arm and it sounded pretty good up close however it always picked up quite a bit of background noise such as hitting the desk, or tapping something etc and it would pick it up. My friend had a 2035 with a cheap XLR and it sounded a lot better for voice over type work compared to the at2020 which seems better for instruments. My 0.02 cents.
  9. I remember buying the console version of GTA V and practically waited since trailer day, bare in mind that was from 2011. Speed up to 2013 September, I'm sitting there playing a game in 30 frames with a massive amount of jaggy lines, and it ruined the experience for me. RDR2 will be the same console experience, but a much better game, imho gta v was a trash installment to the line. GTA SA was a much enjoyable experience, even on console. But yeah we'll be waiting atleast half a year and thats the minimum. From what I remember, GTA V released on the PS3 and 360 September 2013, and then 1 year later it got released on the PS4 and XBOX ONE in November of 2014. I'm pretty sure that the PC release date was supposed to be late 2014 as well, but it got delayed until April 2015. So you're better of just getting a PS4 imo. My 2 cents.
  10. The 6700K and Z170 along with the ram you have is still relative in todays age for gaming. Best bet is before the new 7nm Ryzen chips come out, sell the current setup you have and combine that with your savings and you can get something like a Ryzen 3700 (8 cores). I wouldn't really purchase anything now knowing that the next line of AMD and Intel cpus will be 7nm and 10nm.
  11. Hi, I have a couple of links that might clear this up for you. https://youtu.be/Xjor24HO2HA?t=196 https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/wqbb1Oa2qHaKclIE.huge (the yellow squares are 64 gb each (128gb) total) With everything being soldered on now, I find it difficult to assume you can upgrade the SSD.
  12. Look at it this way Ryzen 5 1600 Thermal Design Power 65 watts. Ryzen chips are soldered. The NH-D15 would be overkill, if you still want something from Noctua then get the NH-U12S-SE AM4.
  13. If you were thinking about upgrading only your CPU then you could get the 3770k which then you can overclock but that also means you would need a Z77 motherboard and a higher TDP cooling unit. If I were you I would wait out with the new refresh of Coffee Lake S (9000 series) or until Zen 2. The i7 3770 although showing its age now is still a 4 core 8 thread CPU that turbos to 3.9 ghz. It should be a do-able pairing with the 1070, granted the game isn't as CPU taxing like the ARMA series you mentioned.
  14. About a week ago, my graphics card started playing up. One out of three fans was spinning slowly and then the other 2 fans would go from 25% to 100% when I launched a game. Temps were fine, never reaching above 78c and maintaining overclock at 1450mhz (980 ti). So I took 2 140mm fans and glued them together and re-applied thermal paste to my gpu and new thermal pads on all the VRMs and stuck it together. I then proceeded to have a working graphics card with temps never exceeding above 74c until today. I launched Overwatch to play with a friend and as soon as I join a game my screen had artifacts everywhere (Im not using an overclock profile anymore either). Is it possible that its the operating system? because I can see my BIOS and startup but when it launches Windows my computer crashes and shows artifacts. So Im using Intel HD graphics as of now and I'm looking at the programs and I've noticed that there's only a PhysX driver there and no nvidia driver? I'm bamboozled at the moment , can anyone shed some light? Thanks
  15. Hi, the PCB looks the exact same as the reference 980 ti from my perspective so wouldnt the silver titan cooler work? Thanks