Dankcube

thank you for the reassurance homie!!

I use the one you listed on my rear fan which I use as intake, its been fine for me. Silverstone is quality. The PSU will be fine, it really doesn't get all that hot under the load you will be putting it under.

Cooling is just a keyword. The magnet around the filter allows it to attach to steel cases. 

The problem you have is you’re bumping into the laws of physics. Finer filters impinge more.  Too much impingement and a fan won’t draw.

Smoke from various forms of smoking is sticky as shit, and creates a layer of crap on electronics that requires scrubbing to get off.
 
If you're that concerned with cleaning it?  Throw it out and quit smoking.

thats the minimum clock, when a core isnt doing anything its gonna lower its speed

That's normal, only a few cores hit the boost frequency.

Hey guys, I just created my account to talk about this and hopefully get answers, I have this 400W psu that I got recently this year, I used it in a old build from 2014 for about 3 months, then took it out because of my new build to try and use it in it, shortly after plugging everything in, I powered it on, and the psu started smoking, I now have a new 500w PSU and it works fine, I would also like to note I checked if my motherboard cable was fully plugged in but I could get it to snap in one more time, what could have caused this? I now have a phobia of this happening again so someone let me know what happened please

Ah yes, a common noname. You shouldn't actually use it
Most Chinese PSU's are masked. They might consumpt 600w but only give out around 400w
That is called PSU efficiency. There is a topic for that in the forum.
So yeah, just don't use it. Plz

When my previous MB died and I had to replace, I got liquid metal. Haven't looked back, and much easier to apply than paste.

Kryonaut is top of the line. The temperature difference between similar products is quite low.
You did clean the surfaces and spread the liquid metal with a cotton swab or something and did not worry that the liquid metal is electrically very conductive?
Liquid metal belongs under CPU with easily removable IHS-s.
Correctly applying liquid metal is much more difficult. With paste it's just a ricegrain sized portion in the middle of the IHS and ready to go.

Yes, it matters.
 
Vague questions get vague answers.

I checked ARMORY CRATE and had 2 driver updates realtek and something else. I updated those and restarted my computer and my space has returned, huzzah!

if you are driving through a crowd, it's one of the most intensive things you can do in the game, my cpu usgae will spike to 90-100% while gpu will also be 100%, MOST of the time it's a gpu bottleneck at 4k/98fps, i can't play with rtx on, settled with medium dlss performance, overclocking the cpu doesn't do much below 80fps, wouldn't recommend it either with a h100i. Also wouldn't recommend upgrading from a 2080 ti to a 3080, the 9900k won't take full advantage of it but i wouldn't call it a bad duo either. Personally waiting for the 3080ti for the 9900k (it's a inefficient).
 
1% lows at 81.5fps, a 5.1 oc with 4.9 ring brings it up to about 88, it does help the dips but whether it's worth it is up to you.
 
TLDR: most of the cpu bottlenecking happens above 80-100fps, and there are areas where no cpus stay above 120fps, don't worry about it. It's mostly a gpu bottleneck.

I've only seen this from Jayztwocents, but he noticed that an 8th gen Intel processor is actually bottlenecking even a 2080 Ti by about 20fps. The 9900K though is really close to the 10900K, so I doubt you'd see a bottleneck there.

Aside from going to the BIOS and removing all power limitations, no.
 
It probably won't affect you in games since they don't max out the CPU like a stress test does.

The i9-9900K is advertised as a "95W" CPU.
When it Turbo Boosts to 5GHz+, it is going BEYOND official spec...when you give it a 120W /  210W limit...but only for a short period of time.
Once that Turbo Boost time is up, it is power limited back down to 95W.
That is why you see the 'Power Limit Throttling.'
 
You can run the CPU 120W+ 24/7 ... but that is called (manual) overclocking.
 
If you overclock that i9-9900K to 5.0GHz on all 8 cores, it is not a "95W" CPU anymore.
More like a 250W CPU.

Yeah I guess you're right. I am just avoiding that 1800$ CDN 3080 QQ using a 2080ti rn overclocked to 2040mhz and struggling with rtx

10% CPU performance, not frame rate. And that is with my RAM. And also an estimate.
 
I stand by my advice that $160 will not be worth it. Especially since there is no upgrade path on Z390.
 
But you are free to do whatever you like.
 
Edit:
It already seems to be nearing it's limit. IME with my 9900K the distance from 80C to 100C is very short, in terms of overclocking.

It only goes to 5.2Ghz when 4 or fewer cores are active, so not a super common occurrence. Basically my browser tabs load wicked fast lol. My all-core is 5Ghz, and if you do the math:
 
[(5.0-4.7)/4.7]*100 = 6.4% improvement.
 
That, plus all the effort I put into OCing my RAM and customizing all the timings probably get's me like 5-10% better performance over a stock 9900K running XMP 3200Mhz RAM.
 
Really not much, and not worth it from a pure cost/benefit analysis... But I enjoy the process. It's a hobby to me, so it's worth it.

Undervolting does not reduce the core clock. It can cause instability.

Concerning XTU, it's just not as predictable as doing the same thing in the BIOS. I've had strange behavior in the past.
 
You don't have to do anything you aren't comfortable with.

Why not increase the Turbo Boost Power max? You were power limit throttling at 120W.
 
Really, you should uninstall XTU and do this in your BIOS.

FYI you are not running that command as admin and that might be why its failing.

I wouldn't say that, you might get 0.25 seconds at that speed before a puff of magic blue smoke and then a dead system