Atomic Charley

I’ve been trying to choose an Ultrawide to buy. I’m looking at getting a 49” one, and the one that seems to have all the bells and whistles I want is the AOC Agon AG493UCX2 The bells and whistles being (these are non-negotiable): Similar display rate and pixel density as my current dual monitors (currently two Gigabyte M29Q) Display port and HDMI. As well as USB C with power and data transfer so I can charge my work laptop with the same cable I’m using to display it when I WFH PBP (PIP would be a plus) so I can have my PS5 on one side and be able to browse the internet on the other I was looking at the Samsung G9 Odyssey as I can get it nearly half off at the moment, but I don’t think it has what I want

It's well and truly dead - just a bit nervous in case it took out my microphone along with it - luckily I registered my RODE microphone so I have 10 years warranty if it did kill it. Probably going to purchase the Behringer U-Phoria UM2 since it's all that I need. But thanks for your help with the other two suggestions!

Sorry for the confusion! I saw your reply to someone else, and saw I’ve read your signature - I think at the time of purchase I wanted something where I could plug multiple microphones in, and my PS4, and I liked the effects you could put on the voice, although that feature never came in handy. And I didn’t do enough research to know that I should just use an audio interface and the line in from the back of my monitor to my PC. I asked if there was a way to fix the mixer so that I wouldn’t have to spend any cash, but if I’m spending less than £100 I don’t mind getting something new.

I have a Yamaha MG10XU that today I noticed stopped sending audio through to my PC, I tried turning the "Listen to this device" function off and on again countless times and restarting everything. I reinstalled drivers, and what not. Then when I went to check if it was a wire I noticed that the light telling me whether a microphone is plugged in wasn't on for Channel 1, I continued with my wire test and changed the XLR cable, taking note that the light flickered for a brief moment when the connector was just touching the port. So then I checked whether it was the channel, and tried the other four, same thing was happening with these four. The XLR channels aren't the only problems, I've got my monitor plugged into channels 7/8 so I can listen to console sounds through my headphones and listen to my PC audio as well, and although the mixer recognises this is receiving audio (which I don't even know if it recognised receiving audio from my microphone) it's not sending it through to my PC. It's about 6 months out of warranty, so if anyone has any possible fixes I could try I would appreciate it. Or if anyone has a different option for me - I originally had plans to plug more microphones in, and have a bigger setup, but the need never arose. So now I just want something I can plug my XLR and console audio and send that audio to my PC (preferably sending that audio as two separate channels so I can play my console and record my voice without listening to my own voice and voice jamming myself) - in this instance I will need Phantom Power as this is what my microphone requires Edit: Is it possible that it's taken out my microphone? I don't have anyway to test this.

Fix: I soughtered the section with the black dot (on the top picture) where it says C43 on the board. This is the contact point for the batteries, I think it had worn down just enough that nothing was making contact.

So as the title says my xbox controller won't power on. I've took it apart and found that there is a hole in the solder where the battery would touch the board. Is this my problem? The images show the part of the back cover that touches the board, and the part of the board I think is the proble (the solder on the right)

They work with anything with a USB port

I followed this guide to send audio through to the headphones that I use for my PC from my PS4, and it worked. But I moved my PS4 to the living room to play on the big screen, and when I moved it back to sit next to my PC it stopped working. I'ved turned the PS4 on and off, I've turned my PC on and off, and my headphones (LucidSound LS40) as well. I've reconnected all the wires and messed about with my sound settings on my PC and PS4 and still no dice. Anyone got any help? I'm willing to change how I do it if someone has a better way that also doesn't add hiss - I've got a MG10XU that I can route sound through instead, but I'd have to wait for cables etc. to come, and I kind of want to play on my PS4

Previous gen card prices have risen as well. Look on PCPP I was looking at some 1080s on Sunday. Yesterday morning (at 10 AM UTC) prices had gone up by £50 in some cases

Update for anyone having a similar problem. I have no idea why my PC wouldn’t boot but today it did with no problems (I did interrupt the boot though so I could start in safe mode - I did not boot in safe mode by the end of it). I’m currently talking to EVGA about my GPU and so far neither of us have any clue. I did a bit more trial and error, after setting my system to high performance in the control panel (could have sworn I’d set it to that) and then I duplicated my display onto both screens so that if it was my display that was the problem I would still be able to see my screen, after that I started getting flashes of my screen so I rolled back my drivers. I don’t remember why I thought of the following but I decided to try using a different DisplayPort on the GPU and now I have dual monitors again. As a test I updated the graphics drivers and still no problems. I’m hopefully going to get an RMA on this card and that will be the end of it. I’ll continue to update once EVGA have gotten back to me.

I only ever use it on trackpads. I think this is something I developed after smartphones, I don't remember doing this (but then again I used to use the arrow keys to scroll). It's more natural for me to scroll like this on a trackpad, in fact I didn't realise I was doing it until this post. On mice I scroll down to go down and up to go up.

My PC is an i7 5820k, MSI Gaming Carbon Pro x99A, with HyperX Fury (4x8GB) and an EVGA GTX 980 SC. It was working perfectly fine on Friday night, and now on Sunday it's not showing any graphics. At first it was only showing my second monitor, and after I disconnected the Display Port from the back of that one to try on my main monitor the second monitor stopped being displayed (upon reconnection). I've tried reseating my GPU and trying any cable I have on hand (mainly HDMI cables). It's definitely not my monitors (unless a new NVidia driver is incompatible with Dell monitors) because as mentioned the second one was working fine up until I disconnected the cable from it and the main monitor also has my PS4 connected to it and that's working. There's a possibility the graphics drivers were updating when I shut my PC off the first time (I waited 15 minutes after I lost visuals of my PC so the driver should have been installed). Right now my PC is showing off the boot codes 36, 37 and 38 which is all Post-memory initialization based and the second monitor is displaying the loading dots for Windows 10, it's just taking forever to load and keeps appearing to be crashing (so I'm assuming this is the Post-memory initialization). Is it my GPU like I fear?

I would like to purchase a new computer chair, my current one was very cheap but it's lasted me for three years, they don't sell it anymore, and I would prefer one that is pleater/easy clean. My budget is flexible but I'm not really willing to go over a couple hundred pounds unless the chair is going to last me forever, or similar. It's difficult for me to go out and try chairs as I'm very busy and I don't drive.

I have about 10TB of data on my PC which I've temporarily backed up onto a cloud service. Because the internet is so terrible where I live I would prefer that this wasn't my only backup of my entire system, plus also, I don't 100% trust cloud services. My biggest problem is obviously finding an affordable solution to backup this much data.

When I first built my PC I had all of my games on my 2TB hdd, I purchased a 4TB one not too long ago to expand my storage. There is data saved on both discs and I want to transfer it to the other discs. Is there any other way to do this other than copying and pasting?