pyrojoe34

Even with stereo recording you can get near perfect surround out of headphones (remember, your ears are stereo, only two channels that your brain simulates surround with). If you were to create a perfect anatomical model of your head (same size, material, shape, pinna, etc) and place a mic inside each ear, you could then play that back (in stereo) with speakers inside your ears to create a perfect simulation of surround sound. The trick is that it will only work well for your since it was modeled against your anatomy. You absolutely can have surround using only stereo recording and stereo speakers, it's just very specific to the model used. Current tech has to use an assumption of an "average" anatomy which is one reason it just doesn't work well for everyone. Another reason is that physically-based audio rendering is not common and still far from perfect. Both of these things can be improved and are far from impossible to do.

It is very physically possible. It's complicated and nobody has perfected it yet but it's far from impossible. The way we localize sound is a due to temporal and amplitude differences and frequency shifts in the sound our ears pick up (ear drums are also stereo btw), our brain is literally doing virtual surround processing. It becomes complicated because all our ears are difference sizes/distances apart and our pinna are all slightly different shapes. This means our brains learned to localize sound using those specific parameters and cannot be assumed for everyone. Having said that, since our ears use things that can all be adjusted by any stereo speakers (amplitude, frequency, time) it is possible to modulate these values for each sound source based on it's relative coordinates. It wouldn't be all that complicated to make a near perfect surround experience for one specific subject where the virtualization is specifically matched to the person's anatomy. Maybe one day "soon" they will even be able to use a simple 3D scan of your head to adjust any model to work for any person without specifically training the model for that person. My point is saying it is impossible is ignorant, and even using currently available virtual surround models, people with anatomies close enough to the prototypical anatomy used to train it will get a very close to realistic surround experience. Right now the tech isn't perfect (depends almost entirely on the software/model side, not hardware), and it only works for people who are similar enough to the standard model used, which is why it's hit or miss and why some people have great luck with it and others can't stand it.

What I'm saying is that when I use the simulated 7.1, the audio is phenomenal. I can pinpoint shots to a specific building at 1km away and can tell the difference between footsteps above me vs below me in a building. It's the stereo audio in PUBG that's terrible, the surround is very accurate (for my head/ear shape).

Great video. Explains why using 7.1 with my headset in PUBG makes such a massive difference in game. I went back to stereo for a game and couldn't tell where anything was other than left or right, with 7.1 enabled I can pinpoint sounds much better (including elevation), really changed the game for me.

I have the G933 and without a doubt having surround on vs not makes a huge difference. Their binaural surround is really accurate and shots in games like PUBG and BF1 are very easy to precisely localize just by sound. I've had a lot of people tell me their headphones don't do it well (I'm the only one I know with a G933) but for me it definitely works. It's important to have surround output enabled on both the headset and in the game settings for it to work but the difference between on and off is night and day, I immediately notice I can't locate shots when it gets disabled for some reason.

for a few seconds that should be okay (at stock). Just look for the POST and turn it off immediately afterwards.

Hey man... there are dozens of us I tell you, dozens!

It was a cool idea and one that IIRC a few data centers actually use (well, something pretty similar). But was such a hassle to do, terrible to maintain, expensive to set up, I imagine the quick disconnects would be an issue after extended use, and not even worth the cooling improvement. Individual PC cooling + a whole room exhaust fan would be a better solution.

It could be a bad fan. Out of 3 Corsair AIOs I've had two come with one fan that was off balance. The ones they package with their AIOs are pretty bad. When you hear the noise, stop the fan briefly with your finger to see if you can isolate the source. If it's from a fan you can try to RMA it but you're probably better off just buying some good fans. If it's not a fan it could be air trapped in the pump. turn up the pump to full speed if it isn't already yet, and tilt the PC in multiple directions to dislodge the bubble, eventually you should be able to get the bubble out of the pump and into the rad where it won't make any noise.

1. Female fan header coming off the block -> plug into CPU_fan header on motherboard. Set this to run at 100% in the BIOS, don't use any smart fan control for this header. 2. Split male fan headers coming off block -> plug into fans on the radiator. 3. Plug USB cable into motherboard USB2.0 header and USB port on the block. 4. Install Corsair Link and set a custom fan curve based on the liquid temp (preset fan curves are terrible). I set it to be at 25% until 40C, then start to ramp up to 85% at 50C. This keeps the water temp below 43C (fans at ~45%) for me and my CPU below 62C. Typically, you want the fans controlled by the AIO, not your motherboard. This way they are dependent on liquid temp instead of CPU temp. With liquid cooling it doesn't help to ramp up fan speed based on CPU temp, you want it to be based on liquid temp since the fans are cooling the liquid, not the CPU directly. The pump speed can be based on CPU temp (not in option with most AIOs though) but the fans should only be dependent on liquid temp.

Yea something is wrong, is the pump running? Usually the liquid temp sensor gets hot when a pump fails though... Maybe a bad sensor? Did you already try remounting it with fresh paste?

That means you don't have adequate heat transfer from the CPU to the block. Most of the time the issue is a bad mount causing poor transfer from the IHS to the block, change the thermal paste and remount it as flush and evenly as possible. The difference you are seeing is almost certainly from this. The other possible issue is bad transfer from the CPU to the IHS (Intel only) which has been an issue for heavy OCers and can be fixed by delidding, but this would not explain such a huge difference and is probably not your issue. For reference my i7-6800k with an H110i GTX after 15+ min under load sits at 62C while the water temp sits at about 43C. Even without delidding you should be getting the CPU and water temp within 25C or so of each other after extended load. If you don't then you need to remount it better. If you AIO liquid is sitting near room temp then getting a bigger one wouldn't change a thing since it's already keeping the liquid as cool as possible and a bigger rad wouldn't change that. A bigger rad would only help if the liquid temp is high and the rad can't dissipate the heat well enough to keep up with heat generated.

So what about my 5s? They destroy its functionality with IOS11 but it doesn’t qualify?

your power limit is set to 50%... there's your problem...

With that resolution/PPI it seems like a 38” version would make more sense. Even at 38” it would have a higher PPI than a 20” 1440p monitor.

No, but compatibility, standardization, and less headache for devs are all pluses of getting rid of 32bit software.

No, it is not worth it for 99% of people. It makes almost no difference with general tasks, OS, or games.

Makes absolutely no difference whatsoever (I have both an NVME and SATA SSD in my system). In fact, even a decent HDD is just fine for games. The load times are a few seconds longer with a HDD but that's the only real difference. The difference between NVME and SATA is negligible.

right click game in library select "properties" click "local files" tab click "verify integrity of game files"

Not necessarily, it might only happen when a certain load is reached or only on the GPU power rails/cables.

Do you have an auto-off setting on the monitor (or "turn off screen after..." Windows power setting)? Try turning it off and seeing if it still happens. It might be a weird bug that thinks the PC is not running anything and turning off the screen?

Could be a failing PSU. Do you have another one you can try?

Just get some electrical tape, it's $2 at the hardware store and something every household should have handy. It's very useful for many other things too due to its elastic nature.

Make sure the exposed parts are not, and cannot, ever touch each other. Then just cover the exposed part with some electrical tape. If they are at risk of touching you have to make sure they are independently isolated from each other (tape around each individual wire or a bit of epoxy over the covering). To make sure it doesn't keep happening protect the corner where it rubs (you can just put some electrical tape there too).

Dude why are you being so defensive and so rude about it... this has gotten severely off topic from the original post.