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pyrojoe34

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Everything posted by pyrojoe34

  1. pyrojoe34
    Never had a single issue with my X99 build...
  2. pyrojoe34
    Well if you go X99 go for 6800k or 5820k, there's no reason to spend the extra on the 6850k unless you specifically want 4 GPUs (or like 6 PCIe SSDs). If you don't need the extra PCIe lanes an OCed 6800k will perform exactly the same as the 6850k for $200 less.
  3. pyrojoe34
    45C on idle is very high which leads me to think you don't have a good, flush mount of the block. The tubes on that cooler are very stiff so if you try to mount it with the rad already installed in the case you won't get it perfectly flat. Try to remount it with the cooler completely out of the case so the tubes are relaxed when you mount them, make sure you get even pressure on all the screws, then mount the rad back into the case once you have a good flat mount. What are the water temps? Are the fans acting weird at all? Fluctuations? Look at my sig for the fix if they are.
  4. pyrojoe34
    i7 over Xeon for gaming. 2.4/3.3 Ghz is really going to hurt you in gaming and any application that doesn't use all 14 cores. IMO you're better off with the 6950x for both applications.
  5. pyrojoe34
    Yes, socket temp matters. Max socket temps should stay below 72C. It should throttle your CPU if the temp exceeds that. You can either put a fan behind the socket and/or put a fan on the VRMs.
  6. pyrojoe34
    Cheapest quad core? A Raspberry Pi 3... you even get RAM, wireless, and IO with that! "Quad-core" means pretty much nothing at all. There are plenty of quad-cores that will get absolutely blown out of the water by a modern single or dual core. What is the specific use and budget? The "cheapest" is almost always to go on Craigslist or eBay. You should be able to get older x86 quad-core CPUs for $25 or so.
  7. pyrojoe34
    If you want a laptop with eGPU support your best bet is to go to the Apple Store with the MacBook and get a refund. Then, take the money and buy a Razer or Dell XPS along with a Core. You should then be able to take the extra $1000 or so you have left and start a 401k (or blow it on blackjack and hookers). I'm not trying to be a typical "Apple hater" (I have an iPhone FWIW), but I don't understand why people insist on buying a certain brand when it's entirely the wrong thing for the job they want.
  8. pyrojoe34
    Expected Apple response: "The device is working just as intended, the users are just holding it wrong."
  9. pyrojoe34
    Kimwipes. Buy a box on Amazon and they'll last forever. Just as cheap as filters (560 for $8), less annoying to work with, and perfect for the job. They're also great for cleaning monitors, lenses, glasses, etc since they're made for microscope lenses/slides anyway.
  10. pyrojoe34
    54C for the water temp is very high. You generally don't want water temps to get above 50C and ideally lower than 45C. However, those high temps tell me you're probably getting decent heat transfer to the cooler (unless the high temps are due to already hot air going through the rad in which case you could still also have bad heat transfer). Water temps that high are usually one of three things. Either the pump isn't running and the hot water is just staying by the sensor rather than cycling through the loop, or the air going through the rad is already hot and won't cool the fins much, or the cooler is overworked and your OC is too high for the cooler to handle. To be fair the h80i is a 120mm cooler so it can't actually dissipate all that much heat compared to a larger AIO. If you want to really OC your CPU you should be looking into at least a 240 or 280mm rad to handle all that heat. Is your cooler intake or exhaust? If it's exhaust you should try flipping the fans to intake. It could also be that your case temp is pretty high and running hot air through the rad will make it hard to cool any water (the bigger the delta between air and water temp the better). If it isn't already intake then make it intake and see what you get from that.
  11. pyrojoe34
    Idle doesn't tell much about a bad mount. There is very little heat to pull from a CPU at idle so you wouldn't know if the mount is bad. You can even (temporarily) have no cooler on a CPU on idle (like in the BIOS) and the temps will stay in line. When I had a bad mount my idle temps were <30C but as soon as I ran anything they'd rocket up in a second. Remounting it fixed that issue, the problem was not bent tubes but the fact that I had mounted it while the tubes were not totally relaxed. I remounted it a few times without it working but then took the entire rad out of the case, held the cooler over the board so there was no pressure on the block except for my finger pressing down in the middle while I evenly tightened the screws diagonally (quarter turn at a time so the pressure is even). I'm not saying this is definitely your problem but I've seen it too many times and your symptoms sound exactly like everyone elses. What are your water temps? If the CPU temp goes up disproportionally to the water temp (they should be pretty well correlated, the delta on my CPU to water temp is 20C or less) then the issue is bad heat transfer from the CPU to the block.
  12. pyrojoe34
    It doesn't have a USB header connection to control it with Corsair Link? I'm not familiar with the H105 specifically maybe it doesn't monitor temps.
  13. pyrojoe34
    In the old system... he moved it to a new one so any number of things could have changed. A bad mount is still the most likely. Or it could be something like a short, getting knocked, etc. I've had an AIO die by moving it from one build to another and had to RMA it. I didn't do anything to it but the movement could have triggered a defect (bad solder/connection) that was dormant.
  14. pyrojoe34
    First thing to check is your mount. The Corsair AIOs have very stiff tubing which makes it very hard to mount the block flush unless it is entirely out of the system. Take the cooler out of the case, then mount the block with the tubes relaxed so you are positive you get flat, even pressure on the block/CPU interface. Then put it all back into the case. This is a common problem with the Corsair AIOs since the tubes that are very stiff and many people have a hard time mounting them flush (made a 20C difference to me and did the same to plenty of other people I told to try this). What is your water temp showing during these tests?
  15. pyrojoe34
    1. First thing to check is your mount. The H80i has very stiff tubing which makes it very hard to mount the block flush unless it is entirely out of the system. Take the cooler out of the case, then mount the block with the tubes relaxed so you are positive you get flat, even pressure on the block/CPU interface. Then put it all back into the case. This is a common problem with the Corsair AIOs since the tubes that are very stiff and many people have a hard time mounting them flush (made a 20C difference to me and did the same to plenty of other people I told to try this). 2. Is the pump running? If you're using Corsair Link to monitor and control the AIO check and make sure the pump RPM is not 0, you should also be able to feel a mild vibration in the block. 3. Are the AIO fans doing anything weird like fluctuating randomly or not going the speed you set them at? If yes, read my signature for the fix to that issue.
  16. pyrojoe34
    Build yourself a NAS/render machine? That's basically what my FX PC is now. (By render machine I mean I just use it to transcode stuff so I can keep using my main build for other things at the same time).
  17. pyrojoe34
    1.6V?? You're crazy, I hope for your sake you didn't fry the CPU. The MAX you should go with conventional cooling is 1.35V which should get you to at the very least 4.4 Ghz
  18. pyrojoe34
    https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-USB-2-0-Cable-Male/dp/B00NH11KIK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480337874&sr=8-1&keywords=amazon+usb+b+to+a
  19. pyrojoe34
    I use the MSI X99A SLI Plus with my 6800k and have had no issues with it yet. I'm pretty happy with it. Just make sure you update the BIOS if you're using Broadwell-E, the older BIOS versions didn't play well (OC didn't stick) with Broadwell-E but upgrading the BIOS fixed it without issue.
  20. pyrojoe34
    You should use adaptive vsync (setting in nvidia control panel) rather than traditional vsync to avoid dropping to 30fps when you go below 60.
  21. pyrojoe34
    not sure, that's a good question to ask corsair.
  22. pyrojoe34
    sounds like a dead pump. contact corsair and RMA
  23. pyrojoe34
    I like gigabyte, had good luck with them in the past and the cooler is pretty good.
  24. pyrojoe34
    I don't know. Sale lasts 3 days. I can't predict the future. It likely won't be any cheaper until the 1080ti comes out (if it even gets cheaper then).
  25. pyrojoe34
    Zotac amp for 569, Asus turbo for 579 (559 after $20 rebate), and Gigabyte G1 gaming for 579 after $15 rebate. http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007709 601194948 601203901&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&Order=PRICE&PageSize=96
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