aisle9

$300 for a dash cam with the same STARVIS 2 sensor that comes in $100 units. "bUt iT hAs a ReAr cAmErA!!!!!11" Linus be after 'dem sweet sweet affiliate dollars. Also, to those pimping EVs, I will consider an EV when they stop spontaneously combusting. I'm convinced that Teslas are intentionally designed to control the rich people population.

Random Chinese brand? Check. "1800W" with tiny little baby ketchup and mustard cables? Check. "90 Plus Gold": Check lol Bitcoin logo? Oh fuck yes, so much check, all the check Also, hilarious, here's a clear image of the label (looks like the same unit, but no Bitcoin logo, which is not entirely unusual): Notice how the total output on this "1800W" unit is 1500W. lol To quote Green Day, who live in my head 24/7 since the release of their outstanding new album, "Bang bang goes the broken glass man." Arson box.

Any motherboard with a long-enough PCIe slot is compatible with any PCIe GPU, assuming your power supply has enough wattage and any necessary connectors. (yes)

Not that I've seen. I'm on the redheaded stepchild of AMD's 6000-series lineup, the non-XT 6700, which went from value steal to forgotten bastard son in the space of two weeks. If an RX 6000 series card were going to have issues, that'd be the one. Depends on the monitor and how well it downscales. If you have a decent panel from a decent brand, you're fine. If you have a garbage-tier $150 27" Alphabetsoup monitor from AliExpress (or Amazon, which is basically AliExpress these days), it might be kinda messy.

There's usually a no-frills model or two that release right at MSRP, but most AIB models are going to release above MSRP, and OEM cards may be tough to find right out of the gate.

Push/pull is really only necessary in a few specific situations: Thick radiators Weak fans Restricted airflow In the first case, push/pull makes a ton of sense. In the second case, you're better off buying three good fans and using the weak ones for airflow elsewhere in your system (Arctic P12s are spectacular and cheap, if you can live without LEDs). In the third situation, I mean, don't mount your rad right behind a tempered glass panel.

If you're going Windows XP, a GTX 960 4GB is godmode. With a 4790K, I doubt you're going XP (and I personally wouldn't with a 4/8), so based on your games...maybe a GTX 970? Or an R9 390/390X if you want to heat your room and cook pizza while playing Doom?

There are gray-market and online marketplace sites out there that sell Windows 11 keys at low cost. None of them are selling authentic OEM or upgrade keys, but instead are selling surplus keys from educational institutions, research facilities, etc. Is that a problem? No, they'll activate just like any other Windows 11 key, but theoretically Microsoft could deactivate them at some point. It's also worth noting that not all gray-market sites are created equal. Some will give you a new key if you just backwards through enough flaming hoops to prove that the one they sent you initially doesn't work. Some are just total scams and you'll never see your money again, and some online marketplace type of sites might just ban you and the seller for trading in "pirated"/gray-market software on their platform if the key doesn't work and you complain. So to sum up, there are "real" keys, meaning OEM or upgrade, and there are "cheap" keys, meaning gray-market. If you want to just buy one and know that it's going to work the first time whatever the price, an OEM key from the Microsoft store is for you. If you want to save money, then, well, that's on you to figure out.

GPD Win units cost almost twice as much, though. That's my issue there. If I'm jumping up to that price range, Thinkpads start to look very tempting.

This question seems like it fits in a couple of subforums, so I'm guessing it goes here. I've seen a lot of reviews of the Legion Go as a handheld gaming unit, and lots of mentions about how it's actually a full-on Windows PC (unlike the Steam Deck), but no one really goes into that side of it. I've been looking at 7840U-powered laptops anyway, which is basically what the Z1 Extreme is, so I'm kind of wondering...for less than the cost of a comparable laptop, could I pick up a low-profile 60% keyboard and connect it to the Legion Go, then use the Legion Go w/dock as a laptop when I need one and a Windows-based gaming portable when I need one of those (meaning all my games work...some don't on the Steam deck) and be proud of my smartiness? Or am I banging a square peg into a round hole in such a fashion that both peg and hole will be F'ed, and I should just pony up for an actual 7840U laptop instead?

Bullshit. That is the bullshittest of bullshit stories this side of, "sadly i am out of country but will send you e-check and have my mover pick it up". If he'd quit gaming and not opened it, he would have returned it. No one goes, "Oh, doh-dee-doh-doh-doh, guess I'll just sell it at a huge loss then." Either the card is damaged and he can't return it, or it's just stolen. There's maybe the off chance that he's just stupid or doesn't care, but if it's really new in box, no way does any intelligent human being sell it for $200 less than it cost them. They return it or, if they can't, they sell it off close to MSRP. This guy is trying to pawn his problem off on you.

Where's that guy who wanted LTX to be held in "a city between south Georgia or north Florida" at? He'd probably have something to chime in here.

What's your budget? How much RAM is in there? GPU? Which games? My immediate thought is a Xeon E3-1231V3, which is a $25-ish upgrade if your system's BIOS allows it. HP is a bag of dicks in herpes stew, so they may not allow for Xeon CPUs in their Prodesk systems. If not that, something like an i7-4790, i7-4790T, i7-4790S, or the i7-4770 equivalent SKUs. 16GB of DDR3 is dirt cheap, probably $20-ish tops. An SSD is the easiest upgrade to do, and a 1TB drive costs as little as $40. 512GB as low as $25 if you just don't need that much room or have external or cloud storage. And if your GPU is ancient or nonexistent, there are options at low price points. Not good options, but "get you by at 720/1080 low in some games" options.

New as in "new from a major retailer", or "some guy says it's new in the box"? Big difference between the two, and "too good to be true" pricing is in play if it's the latter.

https://www.microcenter.com/product/646649/evolve-iii-maestro-116-laptop-computer-dark-grey Just be advised: that thing is e-waste and you'll hate yourself for buying it. A used Chromebook would be a much better idea.

Buy a Dell Optiplex 5050 online. Make sure it's the tower version with at least an i5-7600, 16GB of RAM and an M.2 drive big enough for your OS and a few games. Buy a used GTX 1650 or Radeon RX 6400, whichever, just make sure it doesn't need a PCI-E power connector. Connect that up, and congratulations, you have a gaming PC within your budget.

Depending on the game, if you want to stay on current sockets, maybe the R5 7600 or i5-12400/13400. If you're up for going used to get better value, i7-11700 or Ryzen 7 5800X? Check the recommended specs for the games you want to play and put a lot of weight into what you see there when deciding.

I think the Pentium 4 w/HT is about when PCI-E first showed up, so that would be it. For a more serious answer, what resolution, detail settings and framerate are you targeting? If you're after 1080p 240Hz or whatever, you're going to need a stronger CPU to avoid stuttering. If you're looking for 4k 60Hz, you're going to be shifting most of the load to the GPU and can get by with a weaker or older CPU.

Do you know how many organizations, including government organizations, do the exact same thing? If the company you're testing knows that you're going to test them, you're not going to get a real result.

For me, yes. I don't care enough about anything to sink whale levels of money into it. For others who need the validation of LAN parties or, more generally, comped hotel rooms and trips to the buffet, clearly not?

The condition is C4. The condition is C4. If that ain't cause to run away, I don't know what is. But seriously, that's a good PSU if you find a good set of cables that doesn't cost as much as the unit. I would just want to know how the hell this seller got 100+ of them.

G3258 & a 750 Ti. Wouldn’t trade it for the world

Anytime, and have fun. My 32-bit XP gaming rig is probably my favorite PC, if I'm honest about it. There's just something about an OS that can handle games from 1990 as well as it handles games from 2008.

What model of Acer Aspire is it? There's usually a sticker on the side. You can probably handle Athlon 64 x2 CPUs. If you search "Acer (model) CPU support", you'll find something that tells you what you can use. Assume compatibility with 4GB of DDR2 via 2x2GB sticks. 4GB sticks are out there, but they don't work with all mobos and they all cost a fortune. Best components of its era would be something along the lines of a Radeon...2000 series? 3000 series? Or a GeForce 6800-ish thing? TBQH, I had a Radeon HD 6570 a while back that was single slot and didn't need additional PCI-E power. It's newer than what you have, but in terms of overall graphics power it's comparable to what was out there, and you can get them for $15 or less on eBay. Something like a GTX 260 or Radeon 4870 would be a good fit too if you wanted to shoot high-end, assuming you replaced the PSU to accommodate the higher power draw and connector requirements.