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aisle9

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Everything posted by aisle9

  1. aisle9
    So that's kind of your next step then. Does the PCIe port work with a different card? If so, good bet that you need to RMA the 6600. If it doesn't, it's a good bet that you need to RMA the board.
  2. aisle9
    A $2 discount if I buy 5,000? Oh, look at me being a saavy shopper! *picks up phone I'll take eight...thousand!
  3. aisle9
    Define "good", "budget" and "gaming".
  4. aisle9
    I bought a 43" Roku smart TV because it had a semi-well-known brand label on it and it was $220. I regret that decision every time I look at that backlight bleed. If you're going to buy a cheap TV, buy it from a brand with known-good service. Not one that has CSRs and supervisors who will all tell you the same thing: backlight bleed is expected as TVs age, and is not covered by warranty. My dudes, the TV is two months old.
  5. aisle9
    The 460 is either already dropped or will soon be. I haven't heard anything about the Maxwell cards (incl. the 950) being discontinued, but judging by NVIDIA's track record, it can't be too far off. Neither one is going to get much more in the way of driver support, so go with the better card. If a 6-pin PCI-E power cable is available, I'd go with the 950. If not, you're stuck with the 460 (unless you have one of those oddball 75W 950s). Either one is way more than capable of handling 1080p Youtube. Hell, if the system you're building has a CPU with integrated graphics, you don't even need a GPU for 1080p YouTube.
  6. aisle9
    Strictly coming from the mini PC train of thought, the TDP option doesn't change the clocks at all, but the decreased power will limit the amount of time a processor can spend pegged to the maximum clock. Have you looked for a guide to your laptop's BIOS? That might be the best place to find an answer.
  7. aisle9
    You might be able to save yourself a little with a B-series board. I think B660 boards have PCIe 4.0 x16 slots, but make sure to verify that first. With a locked CPU, you probably don't need the extras on a Z-board. 32GB of RAM isn't a bad idea these days, but not really necessary for the use case you're presenting here. If you've got the budget, it's a worthwhile upgrade...but so is a bigger NVMe drive. Strictly IMO, 1TB is not enough to be the only drive in a gaming system anymore. The Hyper 212 is an even worse buy in 2024 than it was in 2020. There are plenty of $15-20 coolers on Amazon that beat it. Look for 120mm towers by Thermalright, the Deepcool Gammaxx 120mm series, and once in a while something in the 120mm range by ID-Cooling will pop up.
  8. aisle9
    Some OEMs have an option in BIOS that lets you choose the TDP. Very common on mini PCs, not sure about laptops.
  9. aisle9

    R7 7840HS mini PC, or slightly higher-cost 8600…

    aisle9 replied to aisle9's status update

    I know. If Amazon sold new iPhones, I'd be putting the cards toward a 15 Pro. I do not have anywhere near enough to cover all of it. My 11 Pro's battery is showing its age, not to mention the phone itself being the last gen stuck on LTE. I timed that one right, huh?. Even if I were to figure out how to turn Amazon gift cards into a 15 Pro, the 16 Pro looks like a generational improvement whereas the 15 Pro is basically a Kaby Lake-level incremental upgrade. So yeah, mini PC is a fun option, laptop is a more practical option (although it is apparently possible to replace the battery on my laptop if you're willing to risk destroying the bottom case), and sit on the cards in and hope I can figure out a way to turn them into a discount on a shiny new iPhone. First-world problems.
  10. aisle9
    aisle9

    R7 7840HS mini PC, or slightly higher-cost 8600G/8700G Inwin B1-based ITX rig? This is a complicated use case that basically comes down to, "I have a boatload of gift cards from the last year or so and can't replace my iPhone 11 Pro with a new one on Amazon so..."

    1. Dedayog

      Dedayog

      2 minutes ago, aisle9 said:

      R7 7840HS mini PC, or slightly higher-cost 8600G/8700G Inwin B1-based ITX rig? This is a complicated use case that basically comes down to, "I have a boatload of gift cards from the last year or so and can't replace my iPhone 11 Pro with a new one on Amazon so..."

      And there is nothing else on Amazon you need at all?  Not even toilet paper?!?!

       

      lol, splurge, man!  but you'll still have to pay for the other stuff out of hard earned cash 🙂

       

      I just mention this as I have spend thousands over the last month and am clamping down hard.   Shit adds up.

    2. aisle9

      aisle9

      1 hour ago, Dedayog said:

      And there is nothing else on Amazon you need at all?  Not even toilet paper?!?!

       

      lol, splurge, man!  but you'll still have to pay for the other stuff out of hard earned cash 🙂

       

      I just mention this as I have spend thousands over the last month and am clamping down hard.   Shit adds up.

      I know. If Amazon sold new iPhones, I'd be putting the cards toward a 15 Pro. I do not have anywhere near enough to cover all of it. My 11 Pro's battery is showing its age, not to mention the phone itself being the last gen stuck on LTE. I timed that one right, huh?. Even if I were to figure out how to turn Amazon gift cards into a 15 Pro, the 16 Pro looks like a generational improvement whereas the 15 Pro is basically a Kaby Lake-level incremental upgrade.

       

      So yeah, mini PC is a fun option, laptop is a more practical option (although it is apparently possible to replace the battery on my laptop if you're willing to risk destroying the bottom case), and sit on the cards in and hope I can figure out a way to turn them into a discount on a shiny new iPhone. First-world problems.

  11. aisle9
    PBT > ABS
  12. aisle9
    No one here is going to tell you how to circumvent Windows activation, if that's what you're after.
  13. aisle9
    Disconnect and reconnect all of your cables and your RAM. If you have a modular PSU, disconnect the cables from it as well and plug them back in. Usually a problem like that in a brand new system is something either not plugged in all the way or plugged into the wrong connector.
  14. aisle9
    There is not.
  15. aisle9
    What makes you think that? Disconnect the front panel I/O connector, make sure it's on the right PINs, check the orientation, then plug it back in. How long have you had this PC? Is it a new problem on an old system, or something you just built?
  16. aisle9
    On the one hand, that backlight problem is only going to get worse over time. On the other, $100 for a 28-inch 4K IPS monitor in that kind of shape isn't a half-bad deal, even with the backlight issue. If it lasts even 6 months for you, that's a better deal than buying most halfway-decent 4K IPS monitors new. If it lasts six months. The monitor itself probably won't die, but that dark area will get larger. It's really up to you. How well can you live with the backlight problem, and how long would it have to be livable for the purchase to be worth it? If I were buying it solely for spreadsheets, typing, work stuff, sure. If media consumption and gaming were on the plate, probably not.
  17. aisle9
    Why are you spending $68 on a motherboard for an Elite 8300? You can get a complete comparable system at a yard sale for $10.
  18. aisle9
    It looks fine to me, but I honestly don't know enough about current values of Polaris cards to say for sure. eBay sold listings are a good place to look.
  19. aisle9
    I'd go with an AIB card. Polaris reference coolers got to sounding like 737s when they revved up. Not the new, quiet ones that explode in midair. The old ones that had tiny metal tubes for engines, screamed like banshees but didn't explode. That low-mounted fan in front (which is probably a standard 80mm?) will help either way, but you definitely have room for an open-air card in there. Sexy case, btw.
  20. aisle9
    What the actual fuck is that. That gets stuck to your phone?
  21. aisle9
    The Radeon 780M iGPU in the 8700G will outperform the 1050 Ti. That said, and I can't believe I'm about to say this, the Framework 16 might actually make sense for you. Assuming the good vibes hold up after people who get free review samples and/or have a stake in the company get to see it.
  22. aisle9
    Intel yanked hyperthreading from most of the 9000 series, then immediately brought it back for the 10000 series. I have a pretty strong hunch that it will return.
  23. aisle9
    So, first, yeah, your GPU is dying. You have options: Replace it. Getting something with the horsepower of a GTX 1080 is not an expensive proposition these days, and this is your best option. Open it up and repaste the die. Check for scorched board components while you're in there. Reflash the VBIOS and see if that solves it (probably won't) Underclock the living hell out of it until it holds up, but know that that's a temporary fix, and it will start showing those symptoms again sooner or later as the GPU continues to degrade.
  24. aisle9
    Could be a bent pin under the section of the CPU that's dedicated to the memory controller. I've had that happen before. Could also be a dead slot. Did you try known good RAM in each slot on the board? If that all works but the board still isn't accepting four DIMMs, you might try rolling back the BIOS and seeing if the problem persists. If it does, I'd wager there's some kind of damage to the board.
  25. aisle9
    You can run any RGB strip outside of your case. You just run the cable out the back through an open PCIe port.
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