DigitalDoofus

I had an MSI board and for me it was a bit of a nightmare the software was buggy and bios was a bit of a nightmare to navigate. That said my gigabyte board probably takes the cake for the most annoying software and experience maybe it's just AMD boards but I haven't found anything that just kinda works y'know. Might try an EVGA or an asrock out next.

most likely yes the vast majority of phones have been designed with this mistake in mind and tend to position the mic in a way that it won't be damaged by the sim ejector tool.

Asus X570 Dark Hero or the EVGA dark and other TOTL boards. The X570 dark hero demands upper mid range price while having a serious VRM setup.

I would doubt that, the main thing you want when oc'ng memory is PCB layers X570 boards tend towards 6-8 layers while B550 tend to trend towards 2-4.

Did you remove the film from the bottom of the cooler that contacts the CPU? common easily made mistake. You should be able to feel a faint vibration on the cpu block if the pump is running.

again I wouldn't trust an RM750 with a 5900X and a 3090. Especially with the fact the 3090 can current spike.

3090 is a little overkill for 1080p 144Hz so I would maybe bump up to 1440p 144Hz the 750W PSU might become an issue I would advise 850W or 1000. And the RM series does use cheaper Chinese made parts compared to the RMx the motherboard might no support your CPU out of the box and you may need an older chip to update so I would look for something that will support the 5900x out of the box. It might do depends when it was produce. you may be better off saving some money and buying a 3080TI or 6950XT the latter having 16GB or VRAM instead of 12 which although modelling for a hobby will probably not need more VRAM is more VRAM. Personally for a higher end build I would recommend a corsair HX1000 which was available on amazon UK for £155 but pricing does seem to have gone up today but keep a look out. I would also personally advise a higher end X570 board ideally with a diagnostics display (the 7 segment usually in the top right) which can make diagnostics easier and in my opinion are worth the extra money. also save money buy buying a windows OEM key means you can't transfer it if you change motherboard but in my experience the ones on g2a tend to be retails keys and are thus transferrable. Found PSU at curry's unsure if they will deliver to you though,

could be chroma subsampling check nvidia control panel or radeon settings. Could also be 60i instead of 60Hz which is interlaced which can cause a similar effect but that's usually more moving things.

I mean one way you could try to avoid these problems is have an insulative and protective cover over that would potentially magnetically retract or could be removed manually when docking it.

would mostly likely need TIM like graphene or similar. I would imagine that watercooling probably won't decrease temps as much as just a heatsink with fan. And I would also imagine the copper surfaces and TIM would become scratched or damage over time without a protective cover. However it's a novel idea.

yeah dead backlight fuse unfortunately it's a fairly involved repair and requires SMD soldering experience. So if you want to fix the laptop your best bet is find a local shop that can do it although from my experience that kind of repair will normally run around $100+ USD but always ask as diagnostics isn't really needed.

so there's a visible image on the laptops display but it's very dark?

try run sfc /scannow in admin powershell might be a windows corruption

does booting with the scarlett disconnected help with notification centre issue?

have you tried a different cable?

Possibly a dead driver chip or backlight fuse not an uncommon fault in laptops. It's also unlikely but not impossible the eternal display connector has come loose. As for dead backlight fuse shine on a light on it and see if you can see anything. Is the laptop detecting it's display as a connected device or not on the external monitor?

HX1000?

So looking at the retailer you link there are a few good options however most of anything within budget that uses higher quality components is out of stock. (RMx, focus+ etc.) I would personally go for the Focus Plus Platinum 650W Due to it's high quality componentry. However for upgradeability's sake I would go for a 750W or higher and either the Seasonic Focus GX750 or the Seasonic Focus GX850 which use mainly Chemi-con caps for and a rubycon as the primary which is the same as the AX1600i although, they do seem a little noisier under higher loads. They do come with seasonic's 10 year warranty. It seems that of what the website has available it's a fight between higher quality components and higher noise... If your still want to go the corsair route the newer RM series has a 10 year warranty same as the RMx. However, I cannot find a single review on it so I can't tell you if it's any form of physical upgrade over the original. Also don't get too tricked by discount many retailers will hike prices then apply to a discount to make it sound cheaper, Also your not going to fry computers with static electricity I've never grounded myself and have handled hundreds of computer components and never encountered it as an issue its 99% fearmongering. Installing a PSU is quite an involved task and I can understand why you would go for that retailer if they offer to install it for you onsite. However, I found the RM750X in stock in an another Portuguese retailer. If your are considering going for Lovelace next gen I might even advise err towards 1000W the Corsair HX1000 shipped from amazon UK. As it's a serious PSU.

I bought a desktop replacement for college wouldn't recommend it anything with a 3070 class GPU or higher will probably give you about 4 hours of battery life at best. If your are going between lectures etc. for ~7 hours a day it can make charging it up etc. annoying. Plus they run quite hot and loud which makes using them quite frustrating. Personally I would get a cheaper thin and light and a more expensive laptop for your dorm if you want to do gaming on the side. Although, maybe an ITX PC setup will serve you better. I also found my laptop Clevo NH55AF ran VERY slowly on battery although, that does seem to be an issue specific to mine. However, all gaming laptops run a lot slower on battery so don't expect to be gaming with AC power it's something you don't tend to get told. short answer gaming laptops don't make good day to day machines If your insistent on a single laptop I would advise a razer blade or something similar with a metal frame as plastic laptops get dinged up and scratch quick and usually have issues with hinges especially if your taking them around with you all day and are a bit clumsy like me.

The list mentions the gigabyte AP which is different from the P750. However, again I would avoid gigabyte due to their poor warranty and customer service record with power supplies. The RMx line uses higher quality components than the RM series which relies on Chinese made capacitors etc. If you could provide a link to the retailers you are adamant on purchasing form it would make choosing one easier as I cannot know what is in stock and isn't. I wouldn't just look at corsair there are plenty of good PSU manufacturers such as EVGA to my knowledge their B2, G2, P2, and T2 series use the super flower platform which is quite strong apparently. Seasonic have a near legendary record and their prime series come with a 12 year warranty which is longer than corsairs 10. From what I can tell the RM 2019 might just be a new casement however there could be some under the hood changes. It's quite frustrating because for me in the UK I can easily grab a HX1000 80+ Platinum PSU for £155.

Oh yeah I believe it's some realtek chips and I do hear people say that intel chips tend to be better although, I would look at amazon reviews and see if there are reported issues as it's probably some hearsay. And I'm not sure intel make 2.5Gb chips although I might be wrong as I think my motherboard has one. As regards to a switch a switch won't give you bandwidth only allow 2.5Gbps down multiple lines independently. Your, still limited to 2.5 by the single connection to the router. If you need multiple 2.5Gbps sources and your router has just the one port then I would advise yes. Although, I would contact your ISP or see if you can find what model of router they provide.

thankfully with the introduction of 2.5Gbps you don't have to spend big bucks on 10Gbe equipment. Most any Chinese 2.5Gbps NIC of amazon will do the job and I'd imagine the router you will be supplied with will have 2.5Gbps ports if not 5Gbps otherwise how else would you connect a faster router. As for Wi-Fi I'm fairly certain those speeds are mostly unachievable without expensive Wi-Fi 6 equipment and a good few repeaters could be wrong though.

The GP-P750GM is the P750. The GP-AP750GM is supposedly okay but I would personally err on caution and just avoid power supplies from non proven brands for the time being until they are more established and more long term results have been ascertained. Especially with how gigabyte handled these failures.

something 3200MHz, CL22, SODIMM from a mainstream brand such as micron, samsung, corsair, crucial etc.

I had a similar keyboard I believe it was the blackwidow 2014 and the switches started to go on it after a couple years in ways such as actuating and rising very slowly having or having no click at all. It may be a hardware issue I would try plugging it into another computer or laptop to see if it carries over but my guess would be worn out switches as I don't think they are the most long lasting. You can replace them but you need some soldering equipment and a bit of experience. It probably works out cheaper and easier to buy a new board