Blucyrik

Damn that sucks I used a 360 controller for it. The game probably doesn't support the Xbox One controllers.

One of my favorite games I found it easier to play with an Xbox controller instead of a keyboard and mouse though.

My whole arguement was that you were looking for lower-end hardware, that's what it looked like from your previous posts. I apoliogize Anywho I had a 650Ti myself and I must say it's an impressive card for the price. Was able to pretty much max out Just Cause 2 at 1080p 60FPS on that card If you can't find any 650Ti's at that price, a Radeon HD 7770 should perform pretty similar.

GT 610, GT 710, HD 6450, R7 240.

If you really wanna spend $50 on a terrible card that NOONE SHOULD EVER BUY, please by all means do so. Just don't come back complaining when you notice a very minimal performance boost and that you wasted your money. Even buying something much, much older like a GTX 470 or 480 used would be much better.

Good luck playing Dark Souls 2 at 10fps then.

Are you kidding me? Did you even watch the video? These low-end overpriced cards are being marketed as GAMING GPU'S. I think you should watch this video:

This video is still pretty relevant.

Will do. Thanks again!

Looks like the WiFi adapter doesn't support enterprise or something... Couldn't get the adapter to work on my laptop. Thanks for the fix! I'll see if I can find an internal PCIe AC adapter for the system sometime

Yes, this was my last resort. However, the ethernet is limited to only 5mb/s down and up, with WiFi being way beyond that (it varies, but typically over 50mb/s). I appreciate you guys trying to help me on this, I'll keep trying configurations and such, like finding a different adapter but I gotta get to class soon. Thanks again guys!

Threw it on the other system, still nothing Do you think it could be something to do with Windows 10 Pro? The link in my original post states that Windows updates MUST be set to automatic, but I already have it set to automatic...

Yes, it's an Asus USB-N13 WiFi adapter. All of the drivers are updated though from Asus' site. I can look around to see if anyone I know has a different one I can borrow, but that'll have to wait for later.

SafeConnect? Normally you install that after you've already connected to the network but I can try to find the download on my laptop and throw it on there.

It won't say my username and password is incorrect. I've made sure I'm using the right username and password on other machines (Laptop, phone, etc.) All works fine. It'll say it's trying to connect and verify but returns me to enter my username and password again. I've also used one of my friend's username and passwords and it still couldn't connect.

Hey guys, Recently I've been trying to connect my desktop (home server) to my University's WiFi... The weird part is my laptop is perfectly capable of connecting but my desktop can't. This might be a bit difficult to come up with a solution as my school's WiFi uses a pretty unique way (I think) of authenticating users on the network (I mean, there's over 10,000 devices used actively on the network every day!). Connecting through my laptop last August (when I started school) was a breeze. I entered in my school account's username and password which uses WPA2-Enterprise authentication, install a ligthweight program named SafeConnect, and I'm all set. My desktop on the other hand... straight-up won't connect to the network. I'll enter the username and password correctly (I made sure of that), it'll try to connect, but then asks me to enter my username and password again. I've tried resetting my firewall settings, Windows Defender, etc. Still can't connect. Here's more information on the network: http://www.uccs.edu/helpdesk/wireless/wireless-info.html If anyone has any idea or solution that would be fantastic! Thanks! EDIT: Forgot to mention, my laptop is running Windows 10 Home and the other is running Windows 10 Pro.

I'm not really looking for better thermals... since it's an i3 CPU My stock Intel fan is starting to make a bit of noise (which is an issue since I want this system to be as quiet as possible) so I felt there was a need to replace it. And thanks for the recommendation

Hey guys, So I recently found out that a Hyper 212 Evo WILL NOT fit in a 4U server chassis as it's just barely taller (about 7mm taller) than the top of the chassis... I've always known 212 Evo's to be the best air CPU coolers you can buy for their price... Anyone know some nice, slightly smaller alternatives to the 212 Evo?

Agreed. You can find them pretty damn cheap on Ebay.

Quite honestly, I think just adding a bunch of new hard drives to the new system would be more cost-effective and more practical in your case. Since you already have 2 systems up and running, you could still utilize the network rendering feature Adobe has in their CC suite when one of the systems isn't being used. Oh and an SSD is basically a that uses flash storage (like a USB thumb drive) and is MUCH faster.

Wow. Ok. This is weird. So I used slmgr -dli to find which product key was being used and it came back with the GENERIC key of " VK7JG-NPHTM-C97JM-9MPGT-3V66T" The code above is what I entered into a PID.txt file on the usb stick I used to install Windows 10 Pro. Basically what this code does is force the Windows files on the usb stick to install Windows 10 Pro... since Windows 10 Home and Pro are separate editions but use the same core files, Microsoft chose to combine the two versions together (which is why if you use the Media Creation Tool there's no "Home" and "Pro" editions you can download). It's possible I could be stuck with this code, as I've tried changing it via command prompt in administrator mode and such. Still no change. I may have completely screwed myself over lol. Oh and one more thing... the Windows 7 Pro code I found might be an OEM code... which makes sense since I can't download any Windows 7 ISO files from Microsoft's site. I enter the product key to start the download but it just comes back with an "Error" message. That's it. Would it be worth trying to call Microsoft on this one to see if they can fix this problem with the product key? Or am I SOL?

I will, thank you all for helping me on this

I just read the article, and at the bottom it says this: " But it completely bypasses the point of the free Windows 10 upgrade, which isn’t to give you a free copy of Windows 10 for a previous Windows license you never used. It’s to upgrade existing, in-use PCs to Windows 10. " If this is correct, I can't simply use a Windows 7 key because this system hasn't had an older version of Windows on it.

Hey guys, Long story, but I thought I could activate Windows 10 Pro with an old Windows 7 Pro key I found in one of my files on my old computer. Apparently that isn't the case if you do a fresh install of Windows 10 (Windows 7 has never been installed on this machine, so Win 10 can't activate with a Win 7 key) Is my logic correct? Do I seriously have to re-install Windows...? This time from a Windows 7 Pro disc? (Which I don't have btw)

Thanks for the help guys I'll just use Community then.