Trentonxx

iPhone 15 Pro seems like a no brainer if money is no issue (no max model bc of your hand size IMO)

my desktop is directly plugged into the modem atm, also funny that you said that, I was on the phone and just got disconnected from the WIFI (the wi-fi network is unresponsive, switching to mobile data- notification popped up) so I guess this really is an ISP problem.. I can't change DNS on the modem but I think if I se them on my network card from windows and my wi-fi settings on the phone it should override the ISPs default ones, I have a fritxboz I planned to install in months but never got time to do it but I doubt it will solve the problem if it's upstream.. today it's the end of the week, I'll try and call them on monday but I doubt they'll do anything, they'll say something along the line that yeah disservice may happen cry about it or

by default I have 1.1.1.1 on windows (and Chrome uses Windows DNS) Firefox has DNS over HTTPS and Secure DNS disabled, I assume it's using 1.1.1.1 as well (I can only set the proxy server from the settings tab AFAIK?)

Hi all, There's this network behavior I've been observing for a while now. almost a year. and it sometimes fix itself after a restart but most of the time it doesn't: for reference this is my non-VPN internet speed by my ISP I also have NetPersec on my pc to monitor the bandwitdh some days it feels like there is just something stopping everything from loading. like I click on a google link and it's stuck for 40seconds on the request, then BAM! the whole page downloads instantly as it should. same for social media, I would pre-load the cached layout but every post is blank until all of the sudden it pops in. I tried everything, flushing DNS cache, restarting both my PC and my Modem, but some days it just stucks for a lot, and some days it's non-existant. I run a VPN and it does the same behavior on the VPN. I've even tried using edge thinking it was a problem limited to Firefox but some websites still suffer from this when the problem is active. I've tried looking it up online and google seems broken I got like 20 ai generated website spewing the same BS list of advice like restarting my computer, reddit threads that are either locked without comments or end up being a different issue and the obligatory microsoft thread where a guy spends 2 entire paragraps boasting his technical skills and over 8+ years in the forum answerings questions only to then give you the most useless answer possible and locking the thread. Sorry for the rant but this was kinda the straw that broke the camel's back, I just want to know what the heck is going on. and if it's an ISP problem is it even fixable or I have to deal with it? (because unless I have a rigid set of instruction to give them to fix the issue they won't even know what the heck I'm calling about so I'd rather ask you experts vs wasting time on the phone with someone who is only trained on selling contracts) thanks..

Just as an update my friend got to a Hardware shop to ask for a build with that budget and they gave her this while most of these components are out of stock or not even sold by major retailers (which makes me think it's some sort of bulk inventory they have for pc builds) and the RAM I could only find it being sold by Aliexpress outside of italian retailers, (+ they spelled the case name wrong or it's a model that's not listed on the internet great!) I know, they have to recoup Tax + build fee + Windows but... I mean we're paying 100€ more, getting a CPU that's 100€ less and a gen older. I cannot phisically build it myself due to distance but I'll see if they're willing to assemble a system with pre-purchased components, for 550€ I can even fit a good PSU and/or increase the RAM of thys system!

thanks! this afternoon I'll try and check with a cheaper SSD to sneak into more ram.

Are you confident? the common sense was to always get Cache on your SSD, expecially a boot drive. adding an NVME drive means I'll also have to check the pcie lanes distribution between CPU/chipset on budget boards, (this one seems to have enough lanes for a x16 gpu and a x4 ssd apparently) I have a Meshify C that looks extremely similiar in terms of shape/space, and mounting a Full sized ATX was a real pain because of the low clearance in the bottom. luckily it does have extra room on the side so I don't have the same issue on the side as well as I did while mounting my compact mid tower. I'll check what PSU I can get for that piece of mind, thanks

Budget (including currency): 400€ (up to 600€) Country: Italy Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Genshin Impact, Minecraft, Discord streaming (no twitch high bitrate stuff) Other details: RTX 2060 and PSU already owned (from a previous upgrade) the monitor is a 1080p 60hz, Part list: https://it.pcpartpicker.com/user/Trentonx/saved/Rgbh99 PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5 GHz 6-Core Processor (€140.97 @ Amazon Italia) Motherboard: Gigabyte B550M DS3H Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (€91.98 @ Amazon Italia) Memory: Kingston FURY Renegade 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory (€64.48 @ Amazon Italia) Storage: Crucial MX500 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive (€76.00) Video Card: NVIDIA Founders Edition GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB Video Card (Purchased For €0.00) Case: Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L MicroATX Mini Tower Case (€67.98 @ Amazon Italia) Power Supply: Azza PSAZ-650B14 650 W ATX Power Supply (Purchased For €0.00) Total: €441.41 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-02-24 17:12 CET+0100 My notes: Stock Cooler from what I've seen is good enough (temp-wise) for the non-X cpu, and if I want to get a Cheap model (around 30€ like the DeepCool Gammaxx 400 V2 or a Hyper 212 evo v2 for 40€) I'll get the same noise output at higher temps so maybe I can work on the fan curve and hope for the best vs spending an extra 40€ on a "not that big of a difference" solution. but I'm open to see your experience or tips if you've had to use the stock cooler on a similiar build. Motherboard: seems like one of the cheapest I could find with Bios compatibility out of the box. I checked: https://imgur.com/ZkhWDuF on the Mobo site and it seems that the oldest revision of that board which supported the 5600 came out in 2022/01/13, it's over a year ago so it shoudl be safe to get. (in the image it's a screenshot of the latest revision instead! I didn't took a second screenshot but I got the date) let me know if you think I can go lower (B450?) and still get a strong chance of out of the box 5600 support. RAM: honestly I've went with the cheapest 3600 kit I could find, they also ahppen to be CL16, good I guess. they aren't listed in the QVL but they are a common model so it should work fine. Storage: I always go with MX500, this is for a friend who's not tech savy so I was also considering the perk of being able to plug the drive into an external reader for any possible issues, plus I doubt she'll feel the difference at boot or gaming between a Sata and an NVME, closest I could find are Crucial P5 Plus 1TB or Sabrent SSD 1TB for 110€ (I avoided all Dramless SSDs and didn't check for QLC vs TLC, should I? it doesn't seem to make that much of a difference on this price range, but let me know if otherwise) GPU: we are lucky, it's so beefy that at fullHD she'll have no issue for the forseeable future, I picked that CPU because I didn't want to go with a 1600 or a 2600 for the sake of budget since I could squeeze a 5600 for around 400€ thanks to the GPU already be present. also for some reasn the 3600 on Amazon italia is 100€ more. so hooray! I guess. Case: the cheapest one that doesn't have finger-cutting sharp aluminium, a small form factor limits our search of a Mobo but cheaper mobos are mini/micro anyway, feel free to suggest better options, (Cheaper models I've found have bad airflow or are made of pure cinesium with images of crumbled cases during shipping lol) PSU: I know I know.. but it was able to feed an OC cpu and a 2060 playing games like Cyberpunk 2077 so I'll say we give it a go, and if cant' keep up with the new system, it was due to a change anyway and I've managed to keep the budget low so it won't be a heavy hit. Overall for 450€ to upgrade I feel confident it's a good system, for the objective we are well within the performance room given my stretch to get a recent CPU instead of an older model. I saw that the Intel competition for that performance level was higher on amazon + the Motherboard and the stock cooler issue I didn't research much into team blue but if you have a good combo let me know thanks again for your time to reply to this post

Perhaps it's all the Youtube-Live ones that got corrupted? idk if I can find a Wanshow pre-twitch that isn't a youtube-live stored archive

understandable. older videos are slower to load (and while the quality being low can be because of the older upload date I feel they are more sluggish to skim around even if 3 minutes long) but this seems to appear on Wan shows only and not some longer and low-view counts videos like some 20k views 1 hour long lessons idk just weird to be happening on theirs

Hi guys, idk if that's the right section but for sure it's not the wrong one. I was looking at archived Wan Shows and I noticed they are all distorted and corrupted. I've never seen this happen on older youtube videos, and no one in the comments (of that year) said anything about the video quality. is something sketchy going on with Youtube or perhaps they tried to re-upload the original videos and something went off? proof: what I see:

I didn't had much time, it was over in a day, and most youtubers praised the display anyway sigh bummer... yeah I'm definitely ditching HDR when looking for a new monitor, if it has one good but it does not give any extra points I think I'll just return it at this point, I'm mad that I wasted all this time trying to make it work something that was broken from the beginning. should have stick to be a late adopter

Ok first of all, I come from a 24" IPS 75Hz monitor, ran by a GTX 1070, I also have 2 18" IPS monitors from 2002 that were my previous monitors, so it's fair to say I've always been with IPS displays and loved them. never had any issue with them. I (along many others from how many new post I see) took advantage of the 40% off on the Odyssey G7 on Amazon and got one, only to spend an entire week trying to fix issues rather than enjoying content. in no particular order: - HDR on Windows 10 seems to be a meme, it does not work, 9 out of 10 forums I look into is people trying to make it work properly, you have to tweak a dozen settings, some each time you wish to view HDR content specifically, and even so. you are not guarantee to have an HDR experience anyway. - the OSD (on screen display) menu is filled with grayed out settings, some are only available when Gsync and does not remember the previous changes, so if I turn my brightness in the non-gsync menu up when I switch back I lose it and have to switch it back up. - the power led is ANNOYING, it beeps blue, if you have the monitor in the bedroom you must put someting under it or it will light the whole room in a beeping patter, annoying. - the screen TURN OFF AND TURN ON every time you: wake up the computer from sleep (win+L), alt-tab outside of a full-screen game, launch a full screen movie from VLC. wich not only is annoying because it takes about 2 seconds for the screen to come back on, and you hear the windows new peripheral sound each time, but ALSO because it shifts all my windows away on the secondary monitor, along with icons messing everything up. (I've had to use the screen with the other monitors unplugged just by how annoying this issue was) - apparently gSync and/or HDR isn't even fully supported unless you have a 20 series or higher GPU, why? I did not found this issue on monitors with free sync wo came before. what's so special? I even tried at 60Hz, but nothing. - apparently a lot of stuff must be manually tweaked by Nvidia control panel for each game, how is this not a default configuration? it's current year, why does it still defaults on balanced instead of power mode, it always seems like we are on a tug o war against laptop or touchpad users ffs! I want to launch a game, toggle "gsync" on the game and just play, I don't want to follow a wikia tutorial on what settings to change in the control panel, when to cap or not cap the fps, what field to disable yada yada... I blame gSync for this added complication, I don't mind setting a hard frame cap to the closest thing, like on heavy game setting it to 75 while on light games a cap on 120. - the 240hz refresh rate, I could only notice it on CSGO, and aside being able to read roadsigns while panning the mouse around it stops there. sure some 0.1% FPS player might have an advantage in using it but honestly I was in the competitive COD scene using a 22ms latency monitor and never complained this much about missing a single frame in a 1 second windows but that's just my opinion. so I'm paying for an extra 120Hz of refresh I won't be using for most of the games. (I think Death Stranding is the most optimized AAA title I can think for PC in my library and even that game is on the 100's of FPS on high end cards so idk..) maybe a 75hz in 4k is a better experience than 2k at 240hz IF it takes the same amount of processing power. - G Sync in general, it causes more problem than it supposed to solve, too much useless added complexity and tweaking every single time, and you have to remember to disable it from the OSD when you stop playing to get back to a more content oriented and productivity monitor. ughhh - the colors, I can't complain too much, I tried some youtube HDR Dolby super duper Ultra 8K footage and side-by-side with my 2002 IPS you notice they are more washed out, not a big deal in games tbh, but since I don't even get HDR why even bother paying this much of a premium I'm asking myself. but I do notice that when there's a big color gradient I see the squared transition, but I'm blaming youtube compression for that so it may not be the display fault. - the included cable feels like the cheapest plastic ever, on a 800$ monitor they can't put a 9$ cable? * the only good thing! * The curve, I don't see any problem with it. I don't sit 20cm away from the monitor like most people who bought the 32" model cry about it being too strong. I can even watch content while on my bed at 2.5 meters away and I don't notice it that much unless I'm really out of the main line. also I don't notice distortions on the edges of the monitor, maybe because it's the 27" or maybe because I sit 80cm from the display anyway. I'm thinking of returning it to amazon, and use the 560€ to buy something else (or keep it in my pockets and go back to the 24") so if you've made it this far and wanna suggest me a new monitor (perhaps because you don't know how to help me with the above problems) I'll thank you. I think of going back to IPS maybe a 27" as I think 32" feels too big. (expecially given how bad windows scaling works) and going 4k. 75Hz minimum because at the end of the day is still better than 60, and I don't know honestly (not speculation land) how many good looking titles will run at more than 75fsp (95%) stable, like yeah on the charts they reach 100 but they dip frequently below 80 so it's going to be annoying I think. plus Will display port or my GPU be able to output that many data? will any content online exist to play that spec? I have my own Plex server but even launching native VLC titles I don't see a big improvement (I'm blaming windows tbh here) sigh. in days like this I envy console players, at least they just have to by a nice HDR TV, plug the console and done.

I'm about to return my G7 odyssey, I wouldn't advise you to buy it for Gsync or HDR if that's what drawn you to it, I'm making a post about it right now

Hi all, the G7 is in huge discount right now here (amazon .it) but I found that different version are sold at diferent prices, and amazon being amazon shows them being the same product. or does not list the specifications clearly. I'm talking: C27G73TQSU - LC27G73TQSUXEN, C27G74TQSU - LC27G74TQSUXZG, C27G75TQSU - LC27G75TQSUXEN for example this one: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B08SVY94MF (‎LC27G73TQSRXEN) is 559€ while same exact monitor but differe serial: https://www.amazon.it/Samsung-Monitor-Pollici-Gaming-LC27G75TQSUXEN/dp/B08669WZRH is 477€ that's almost 90€ of difference! for no apparent reason. on google these serial don't give much results, they link me back to the amazon page or the Samsung website. anyone can help? thank you! ps, for mounting the monitor since it should be 7-8kg of weight I saw this arm: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B085CCVMSQ?psc=1 but since I have another cheaper 24" display I was thinking of a double one. this arm in particular https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B07ZNGT8K4?psc=1 seems to only support up to 6kg, I don't want to risk it

wait, how is a BX300, cache-less and older gen SSD on the same level as a MX500? (also is MLC worth looking for in sata SSDs??) Edit: oh wait, dram-less and cache-less aren't the same thing.

oh really? I always tried to keep the top 15-20% of my SSD free to avoid slow downs, but that was many years ago, if it's no longer needed poggers more space for me! thank you! I guess I'll ditch NVME for the game library then, I like MX500, I have 5 of them around my builds, is a TLC with no cache better than a QLC? (I'm seeing a 50€ difference on the 2tb model) also QLC seems to be more on NVME than sata drive, why is it that?

so I should go with the cheapest SSD (with cache) that I can find on amazon? is C-tier good enough or I can even go as low as D-tier for the gaming library? https://linustechtips.com/topic/1092033-ssd-tier-list/ how about the OS drive? should I look for C or B tier? thanks!

With games like COD that takes so much space + a big VR game library (and in general I keep games installed for some time even after I finish playing like FC5 or big titles like Rust and Ark) I need a lot of space, so having a cheap 500gb drive + a 2tb drive ends up cheaper than 4tb drives that are quite expensive I always partidioned my drive, it's a bit for keeping things organized and leave that extra headroom for SSD that they need, plus if something f-up it's limited to the single partition. also I tend to re-install windows almost once a year to clean up all the clutter, and I just have to format and re-install on my C instead of re downloading games idk

Hi all, after seeing this: https://www.techspot.com/review/2116-storage-speed-game-loading/ I was thinking if having a faster but smaller SSD (like a 256gb gen.4 nvme) for windows + game launcher and a cheaper 2-4 tb QLC NVME (or maybe even just Sata) SSD for gaming library is a good move or there are some noticeable drawbacks? should I maybe get a decent Nvme of like 1tb so I can divide 2 partition, one for windows + programs and desktop of like 150gb and the rest for games? does running games from the same disk as the OS one gives them any advantage or disadvantage? like easier/harder to fetch data, memory access and so on?

so I can run something like Valley benchmark in the background while I change the settings and still have accurate results for real-games? good, 200W is +100% power limit? does higher memory clock affect framerates? I tought core clock was more important

Hi, I am tweaking my GTX 1070 using Afterburner (and Kombustor donuts, both GL and VK for artifact testing) but I realize that even with +20% on power limit I still hit my power limit and my cpu core voltage drops down, without any core clock or memory clock OC I found out that at v1.062 it still trigger PL, and 1.043 does not. but when I spike up core clock it goes under 0.9 my understanding is that if it's hitting power limit I just lose all benefits of my OC because it's throttling down the power, but I feel kinda limited with these tools, am I missing something? My main focus is to get a better frametime on my Valve Index, as with the current GPU market I can't upgrade my old one but I still want to get some decent framerate on most games (so if any of you have any VR experience feel free to add some tips for it as well) thank you so much!

see, this was one of my concerns, if the OS drive would be the bottleneck for games or if they would "cache" it on the RAM, the problem is that I don't want to buy a 1Tb high performance SSD just to waste 25% of it just for Windows and System files garbage! of course the jump from HDD to SSD is so high that you won't notice the one from Sata SSD to Nvme. now I'm going to bed, tomorrow I'll study more into it, I'm still confused because I'm reading all sort of things, like disks using SLC as a first-step write to improve speed, or those that drops the speed by A LOT after just the first half of the copied file during transfer while some are more consistent, (what's causing that?)) uff..

Hi, I already have a 10sec cold boot time with my 1Tb Sabrent Rocket (pcie 3.0) Nvme SSD, and I'm still reading reviews about SSDs and how they work, but so far it seems that for the OS there isn't much difference at all (like maybe 2seconds AT BEST if I get a gen 4.0 nvme drive) while there's much speculation on the future of gaming and direct access to storage. so I was thinking, should I migrate my OS to a smaller Sata SSD like an MX500 of 250/500Gb and use the full 1Tb Nvme (and maybe in the future buy a 2Tb model with a newer controller or a 4.0) for games and applications like Blender/Unity? at the current time I'm splitting the 1Tb drive as 200Gb / 760Gb. 200 for windows and 760 for games, but with Modern Warfare taking 250Gigs, the new title following its steps, and other heavy games that are 90Gigs average... I'm getting kinda full. Will I notice a performance downgrade if I have my OS on a Sata SSD and the games on Nvme pcie? I'm still so confused about lots of things, if you have some great written articles about this stuff I would really appreciate it, Thanks

what??? you contacted Crucial support or the Amazon Seller? it's weird because they are virtually the same drive but the BX performs worst on many benchmarks exactly on par of cacheless SSD... uhhh