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KMEO

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  • Posts

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System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z97-GAMING 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
  • RAM
    G.Skill Trident X 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
  • GPU
    MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card
  • Case
    Cooler Master Storm Scout 2 Advanced ATX Mid Tower Case
  • Storage
    Sandisk SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive, Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
  • Display(s)
    Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor
  • Cooling
    Corsair H50 57.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
  • Keyboard
    Corsair Vengeance K70 Wired Gaming Keyboard
  • Mouse
    Razer DeathAdder 2013 Wired Optical Mouse
  • Sound
    Logitech Z313 25W 2.1ch Speakers
  • Operating System
    Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit)
  • PCPartPicker URL
  1. Thanks! I've made up my mind on what to purchase - really appreciate the input! As always, LTT never fails me!
  2. Since I'm already getting the UPS, I might as well opt-in for the single-gang. I want it to be absolutely foolproof in the off-chance that someone is going to plug something on the same line if I get the multi-gang EC. Edited with pic: There's a gang of outlets for battery and a gang of outlets that's surge-protected.
  3. AH, gotcha! AFAIK, the EC doesn't seem to have the surge-protector property on it, so I think it should be fine. And I just looked up the specs on that one he recommended and it's rated for 1875W (15A x 125V), so it should be more than enough to handle the UPS (rated for 900W). Daisy chaining is only really dangerous when you go over the load, right?
  4. Wouldn't the UPS with the built-in surge protector protect me from voltage problems, such as a voltage drop? From what I read, people also said something about how UPS's are better because it gives you "clean" power because the power is very regulated coming from the power bank that's in the UPS.
  5. What's a power bar? Also, I think the UPS I mentioned already has a built-in surge protector. Are you saying that the power stored in the UPS doesn't have a surge protector or something? For the false positive problem, I don't think I'll have it since I'm going Wall -> Ext C. -> UPS -> PC
  6. To start off, yes I am well aware that it's dangerous to daisy chain, and I feel like I already know the answer to this question - please forgive my ignorance. I sort of have this dilemma: I'm trying to buy a UPS for my computer, for obvious reasons, but the problem is that the UPS's cord that I'm trying to buy is a wee-bit too short. The cord is ~6 ft., but there's ~10 ft. between the power outlet and my battle station. My solution was to simply buy a high rated (is that a thing?), single outlet, extension cord and set it up like this: wall > extension cord > UPS > station. From my understanding (please forgive my ignorance), aside from the visuals, there's a difference between an extension cord and a power strip. Now, I don't know enough about the subject to make a confident choice whether or not I should "daisy chain" to solve this problem, but you guys here at LTT haven't failed me! Is it safe? Should I do it? LTT, you're my only hope! Here's the UPS I'm trying to buy on Amazon. If you guys have other suggestions, I'm all for it. P.S. picture of power strip vs. cord for visual.
  7. So far, I've been getting a lot of suggestions and I've tailored it to save him money 1. Yeah, he's not gaming, but from my understanding: more cores = better? 2. Opted for the 1060 instead 3. Got any suggestions? the M.2 is very pricey! 4. will do! 5. Huh, I never knew that.. thanks a bunch! EDIT: Got any recommendations for CPU cooling? Someone keeps telling me the Noctua NH-D15 is better than the water cooled I have on the build
  8. What are the benefits? Went with the 960 now What's the benefit? At the moment, I'm gonna opt in for a GTX 1060
  9. Hello, I'd like to thank you, at the very least, for taking the time to visit and read this thread! Like the title said, my friend wants a fast and powerful computer for video editing. I've provided a PCPartPicker link and info on what I currently have in his build. Any input and/or criticism would be greatly appreciated! 1. Budget and Location My friend's budget is around $2,500 and we're located in California, USA. 2. Aim of the Build My friend is asking me to help him compile some computer parts that'll essentially build him a powerful PC mainly for video editing. Though he's mainly using this for video editing, he produces music, so anything that'll help with that would be a really nice bonus for his system. NOTE: He will NOT play games on this rig. 3. Monitors Currently, he wants a monitor capable of 4K, and he'll currently opt-in for one monitor. 4. Peripherals A cheap M&K to start, but he'll eventually just figure this out on his own. NEW PARTS LIST PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 1700X 3.4GHz 8-Core Processor ($279.99 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X62 Liquid CPU Cooler ($199.89 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Asus - STRIX B350-F GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($392.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung - 960 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($289.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Toshiba - X300 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($105.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GT OCV1 Video Card ($279.88 @ OutletPC) Case: Corsair - Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.98 @ Newegg) Optical Drive: Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.29 @ OutletPC) Monitor: LG - 27UD58-B 27.0" 3840x2160 60Hz Monitor ($296.00 @ B&H) Total: $2120.98 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-27 09:05 EST-0500 OLD PARTS LIST PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i7-7820X 3.6GHz 8-Core Processor ($499.99 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: Corsair - H115i 104.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($109.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock - X299 Taichi ATX LGA2066 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($224.89 @ OutletPC) Storage: Samsung - 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($449.99 @ Newegg Marketplace) Storage: Toshiba - X300 4TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($105.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($459.88 @ OutletPC) Case: Corsair - Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ B&H) Optical Drive: Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.29 @ OutletPC) Monitor: LG - 27UD58-B 27.0" 3840x2160 60Hz Monitor ($296.00 @ B&H) Total: $2532.99 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-11-27 05:09 EST-0500 P.S. I hope my formatting isn't bad! EDIT 1: He never built/had a PC, which is why he's asking me to help him out. AFAIK, he doesn't have any brand preferences as long as it gets the job done. EDIT 2: Took account some suggestions and have updated the parts!
  10. Congrats to your guys' 3 million subscribers and thank you for holding this give away for your fans! On that note, I would like to get the Razer Blade Stealth for those kickass media player capabilities (4K screen ?), as well as being the cool kid in college who's rocking something he won from LTT! ? May you guys have more good things to come and a good luck to everyone else! Cheers! ??
  11. I'm basically just replying to myself now, but I just want to let you guys know the problem is solved. After downloading XCOM 2, the memory column did not spike. The main cause of the problem was an outdated Killer Network driver. After updating the Killer Network driver (link here), the memory leaks seem to have subsided. Anyway, thanks for trying to help out Tedster and Enderman!
  12. APPARENTLY, after some further digging through Steam, someone came up with this cause: Killer Ethernet Port. Further digging suggest that Killer Network seems notorious for causing many a memory leak that doesn't get displayed on Task Manager because it's "forgotten" or something along those lines. I'm not 100% sure this is it, but can anyone else comment on it? Here's a reddit post that talks about it. Note: My MoBo is MSI Z97-GAMING 5 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard Included a snippet of another steam user's problem:
  13. Even after reinstalling steam, as well as the games that were uninstalled, it seems my computer is still maxing out on memory. In addition, my cursor is now "skipping" across the screen when I drag it. What is going on? Here are the readings:
  14. I have not tried that. I knew something was up with the Steam client because after a huge download, my memory maxes out and my processes become slower.
  15. Hi all! I wonder if any of you can help me out with a problem I've been having for a few weeks now. As the title suggest, I need a permanent fix (if possible) to my problem. My computer seems to spike in memory usage and it's slowing down my computer from time-to-time, and the only "band-aid" I can think if is just having to restart the computer to keep it low. However, this is becoming a nuisance and I'd like to understand why this is happening. I have no clue on how to solve this problem since my google wizardry and my very limited knowledge of computer hardware & software can only get me so far. Things that might help in diagnosing: 1. After I download and/or update a game on steam, my memory usage reaches, or is close to, the peak @ 16GB for the whole duration of me operating until I either restart or stop using the computer. 2. Read this online, but I noticed this as well: when my computer goes to sleep, my memory usage spikes, and just like the first one, it stays there for the whole time. I'll provide some screenshots of what I'm seeing on Task Manager's Processes and Performance tabs.
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