boarder2k7

That's all it is, just type in the key and you're good to go. Check if you have an old 7 or 8 Pro machine you no longer use. Those Pro keys are still good to upgrade 10 from home to pro

I'd just turn off the CPU folding slot. The GPU is a much more efficient way to run those calculations anyway (plus the WUs are worth more of those precious points!)

As someone who worked for a year running board and wiring assembly with leaded solder, I can tell you that the talk of issues from leaded solder is highly overblown. I went through a LOT of solder, over a pound a month of Kester 60/40, and when I left that job I had my doctor run lead levels in my next routine blood work, and there was nothing detectable. Just wash your hands/don't lick the lead and you'll be just fine. The ROHS solder is arguably worse for you because the flux fumes are considerably harsher and pose more of an inhalation hazard. Nickel is a common component in jewelry, so I'm pretty sure that's a non-issue.

Water cooled RC boats are pretty typical. Getting airflow into a boat with a sealed (it should be sealed anyway) electronics compartment just isn't possible. Stuff like this is pretty common for boats: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-aquastar-2842-2800kv-water-cooled-brushless-outrunner-motor.html

I strongly doubt this is from arcing, the currents involved in charging a smartwatch are way too low for that. A 300 mAh battery in a 3 hour charge is only 100 mA which just isn't enough to cause significant pitting. This damage is typically caused by the super thin plating they use to keep the contacts from corroding getting worn off by the charging contacts, then the salt in your sweat attacks the contacts and pits them. This same thing happened to my first gen Galaxy Watch or whatever they called it. I was fortunately able to find a repair part from some obscure Chinese website, open the watch up, and replace the part, it was a separate sub assembly glued in from the back of the case, which also looks to be the case here. There isn't any harm in trying a conductive pen, just make sure not to bridge anything. I think your only real long term solution is to find a repair part though.

Slight necro here but I did a lot of research into setting up wind vs solar on a property that also has good consistent wind. My conclusion is that wind just isn't worth it on a small scale. When I say small, I was looking at used 10 kW Bergey setups (to avoid the high initial cost), and even those don't have nearly as good payback as you'd hope once you factor in maintenance which is typically why they're being taken down. It's just become less hassle to replace with solar. Your available power increases off a squared function of both wind speed and blade length. Those little "500 Watt" turbines will only make that much in fairly high winds, usually 25 kph+ You're much better off from a longevity and power produced standpoint to go solar + batteries if you need constant renewable power based on all the calculations I did. Obviously ymmv based on location, but don't expect good longevity from the China magic 500 W units. We used to burn them out every couple years back at school with the one we had instrumented on one of the buildings as a learning tool.

Though please don't ask us to help you cheat...

You would have to talk to waves about getting the software, it isn't all up for download. I've heard of people buying v2 hardware and upgrading to v3 specs with some difficulty, so that at least can be made to work after a fashion. All support would be on you though of course.

I'm once again confused as to why an automotive antifreeze manufacturer, who has liability moving into the hundreds of thousands of dollars if found to have produced a product that damaged engines when they said it was okay, would suddenly change their formula to something that no longer prevents corrosion? There are standards that all reputable coolants are tested to, specifically ASTM D3306, ASTM D4985, ASTM D3306, ASTM D6210, and ASTM D7583 depending on the coolant. It's true that they don't have to publish exactly what their corrosion inhibitor formula is, but the ASTM standards show that it does work. Five years/150k miles is not an uncommon expected lifespan of coolant in an automotive system, and don't forget that higher temperatures encourage corrosion more than lower ones, so your computer loop operating at 40C will have less potential issues than the car running at 85C will. Also just for curiosity, where on earth is RO water easier to find than distilled? Distilled water is $0.88/gallon at Walmart, I've never seen RO water for sale, and I've certainly never seen DI water regularly available outside a chem lab.

I've always been confused as to why people talk about automotive coolants as "chemical roulette" when they specifically have anti-corrosion additives in them. It isn't uncommon for an automotive cooling loop to include aluminum, steel, cast iron, copper, brass, and with soldered radiators also lead, in various mixtures, at temperatures elevated past that of your PC, for years at a time per change. It'll be fine from that perspective, you shouldn't see any corrosion issues. It does have lower thermal mass though, so will change your cooling capacity somewhat. Looking at https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethylene-glycol-d_146.html seems to show that at 40C you'll need 16% extra flow to account for the difference if you want the exact same temperatures.

If there is a manufacturer tool for it you can check TBW vs the warrantied TBW to get some sort of an idea of drive life, but you're unlikely to have made serious progress towards the limits of the drive. Past wear, you can't tell when a drive will die that I know of.

I feel like I'm just reiterating OP here, but there was full paste coverage of both the die and the matching part of the heatsink. I'm not sure what more compound would do other than squish out the edges after full die coverage is achieved. Screws literally cannot be mis-tightened because on the R9 290 they are tightened until they bottom out. Tension is provided by the flex in the heatsink backplate arms. There is no way for the heatsink overall to be mis-aligned because there are 12 plate mounting screws plus the 4 screws that provide contact pressure on the die.

The people I know with the CR-10s are happy with them, Creality makes good stuff. As for the fitting into an armband, keep in mind that a Raspi 3B+ and that screen you linked are around an inch thick, and wouldn't be super graceful in an armband. See if you can get the performance for what you want to do out of a raspi zero. It doesn't have the full size USB and RJ45 ports on it, and doesn't have the header pins soldered on, so it allows you to build something much thinner.

Correct, you would need VLANS to have isolated networks, 2 APs doesn't do anything other than giving you two SSIDs. If you can put one of the ports on its own VLAN you can then have your IOT devices "outside" the network. You would not put your printer on this however, as you need to be able to talk to it from your regular home VLAN. Broadcasting or not broadcasting the SSID doesn't really do anything for your security, so just do whichever is easier to get your IOT stuff hooked to. A quick google found this, it should help you with this https://forum.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=317199

This can definitely be done as W-L said, but I'll also add that such a device would not readily fit into a reasonable sized case integration as you are talking about. Just the mechanical components of a compressor based chiller are fairly large, and won't fit well without a custom chiller being made for your application. I have a CW-5000 chiller for my laser cutter, and it is no small or light beast. You can see the insides a bit in this pdf. You can see that the compressor is not too badly sized, the evaporator is built into the water tank which is fairly large, and the condenser is huge. You couldn't save any space really compared to this for a couple reasons, first, the evaporator needs to be large enough to absorb the heat from the working liquid effectively, this takes a considerable amount of contact area, and you need some quantity of extra water in these to avoid short cycling. Second, the condenser in this machine is as small and efficient as you can make it, going to water then to air is actually going to make its performance worse and require a larger radiator to achieve the same delta t across the condenser. This is because phase change is the most efficient way to move heat into a radiator, in this case the working fluid (R134) is going into the condenser as a vapor, and exiting in liquid form. The radiator is as large as it is because you're dissipating the heat from the cooled device (as built this is aiming at a laser cutter, but of course a CPU is the same idea) and adding the extra 100-200 watts of compressor work (depending on the exact model of chiller) which requires the extra large radiator space.