ivan3dx

Yes but I tried it on other PCs and it works. I called support for the brand (which I didn't want to do because that means paying) and they said I wouldn't be able to do it because it needs a special Windows boot drive. I don't know how true is that...

Doesn't work

Hello everyone. I'm having trouble making this old laptop working again. I wanted to give it a cleanup and reinstall Windows on it, as I've done a million times with other PCs, even much much older ones, without trouble. I don't think most people will recognize the model because but: -Model name: CX9114W -CPU: Intel Atom x5-Z8350 -RAM: 2GB DDR3 -Storage: 32 GB eMMC Firstly, I tried a system reset from Windows. I don't remember how the exact option was called, but at some point it asked me if I wanted to fully delete data, as to start fully new when the process finished. It didn't ask for any sort of boot drive or gave any warning at all, but told me that it would probably take a long time to finish. I didn't mind that, and it started going. After some time, an error appeared, saying that Windows installation failed, and told me to try again. But when I reboot... the same error window appears over and over, there's no way for me to boot. No biggie, I thought, I'll take my Windows 10 USB drive and install fresh. Opened up the BIOS, I can see it as a boot option and when I tell it to boot from there... nothing. In fact, it tried to boot from the broken Windows again. I would try to remove the storage device or anything but it's soldered in and there are no ports (I opened it to check that among other things). One other piece of information about the laptop is that it has an "EFI Shell" (Which I had to look up because I never encountered that before). I couldn't seem to try to get into it again after breaking Windows but I haven't really tried that much for that. Maybe that part is important somehow? I there anything I can do? I tried messing around with the BIOS settings to check if anything would allow me to boot the Windows installer, which has worked for me in the past, to no avail. I'm getting desperate now and have no idea what I could do. I hope anyone knows the answer or has gone through a similar situation. Thanks.

I hadn't upgraded when I wasked. I upgraded now and, alas, still doesn't work. I'll try with a different cable, I hope that's the problem. Is there any chance that it needs HDMI to work at all? Is DP v1.2 enough? Because it seems like that's all the monitor supports

Hey everyone. I bought a new DP cable for my main monitor (Samsung Odyssey G5) because I needed the HDMI cable for my second monitor (And my GPU only has one HDMI port, and the second monitor doesn't have a DP port). Thing is... it works fine for 60hz but when I try to go to 144hz the monitor just doesn't work. I can't even access the options, it's like stuck in a loop. To use it again, I have to disconnect the DP cable and factory reset the monitor, after which I can use it with 60hz. So... is the cable just too cheap? Should I get a better one? Is there something I'm missing? I have no way of testing the cable with other monitor.

Hello everyone! I'm not really knowledgeable when it comes to headphones, but I do like nice sound quality (While obviously not profesional, when I upgraded from my Galaxy Buds2 to Buds2 Pro I definetely noticed a bump in quality). It's not just about sound quality however, I also really want them to be wireless and preferably have a mic. I've been looking for a bunch of headphones to buy, and a couple of Logitech ones caught my eye (G935 and G733, for reference, the G935 is about $134 and the G733 is $160 in my country). When checking the Rtings review, it seems like the G733 is a better with bass (The G935 seem to have stronger than neutral bass, though a pretty flat response, which makes me think it could be easily corrected with EQ) while the G935 is better with treble, but I don't know how trustworthy those reviews are (They seem pretty good though). Other thing I don't really like about the G935 is that they use Micro-USB, while the G733 use USB-C. Which one of those two do you think would be better? Also, I wanted to get recommendations on headphones in general, without exceeding the prices I mentioned preferably. I'm obviously open for non "gamer" brands, though they absolutely need to be wireless, but I could maybe make do without the mic. I will be using them for gaming but also for general PC use, like calling, music, etc. Thanks!!

So I should just lower the voltage back to 1.5 V and run it at 3066 MHz?

Hey everyone! I have this new PC I'm building, which has: -CPU: Ryzen 7 3700X -MoBo: Asus Prime B550M-A -RAM: 2x8 GB HP V6 series 3600 MHz (18-20-20-40) -SSD: WD Green M.2 480 GB I activate the DCOP profile and it tries to set it to 3600 MHz with a RAM voltage of 1.5 V. However it fails to post. Only when I go down to 3066 MHz it boots, and I can't seem to be able to get it any higher without increasing the voltage. If I set the voltage up to 1.6 V it can go to 3133 MHz without crashing (didn't test it under stress though), but can't post again at 3200 MHz. I'm unsure if the current values of voltage are safe, and if it's possible to run my clock speeds at anywhere near the advertised 3600 MHz. If I'm doing something wrong, I'd like to know what, or if it's just the components that aren't good enough.

Yeah, that's my concern. I don't mind buying 3200 MHz sticks and having them run at 2400 MHz. My concern is that they will not run in dual-channel

I don't want to ditch the old ones, I want to use all 4 sticks

Hello everyone! I have a Ryzen 7 1700x with a GA-AB350M-Gaming 3 motherboard that needs a RAM upgrade from 16 GB to 32 GB. I have 2 sticks of 8 GB that run at 2400 MHz, and I was wondering if I could buy new 3200 MHz sticks that would still run in dual channel. I'm aware that the BIOS will default the frequency to 2400 MHz, but I would like to buy the higher speed RAM for future proof (If I reuse it on other build), or reselling factor. So, do can I buy 3200 MHz RAM, even if they run at 2400 MHz, or do I need to buy 2400 MHz DIMMs? If I have to buy 2400 MHz sticks, I'm aware that they preferably should be of the same brand and model, but is that completely necessary? Thanks!

Hello everyone! I want to install a SSD into this old HP G1 All in One (Specifically, G1-2114la) and I've run into some problems. CPU: AMD E-350 - 1.6 GHz RAM: 3 GB (398 MB reserved for graphics) SSD: 240 GB Firstly, the Windows installer would not work for some reason. It detected the bootable flash drive, but after showing the Windows logo por a while, it then showed a blue screen, but shut down afterwards (As if it had trouble loading the files) I went around that by installing the SSD on an old laptop and doing the first two stages of Windows 10 installation on it (You know, first it load the files, then it restarts for the first time with the new drive. After it shut down for the second time, I removed it from the laptop), so it could finish installation on the AiO. And it did, Windows boots up and it's... Terribly slow. Like, I know it's a 2011 machine with an AMD E-350 CPU. But I thought the SSD would be of help. I was wondering if anyone would have any experience with these sort of things. Maybe that little SSD swap trick I did is causing some unforeseen issues? Or maybe the CPU is just too slow?

I understand the PSU thing, is just that spending 15% more on the cheapest 80 plus PSU I could find, which wasn't even that good (Gamemax VP500), or 35% more on a Corsair PSU didn't seem to justify a statistically improbable scenario (I never heard it happen first hand, though I read some stories on the internet). Those 15% and 35% are TOTAL PC budget btw. Regardless of the danger, I don't think the PSU is causing the problem. Regarding the drivers, I formatted the SSD and reinstalled Windows, so I really don't think that's the problem, though I could try, and I will uninstall and reinstall them now.

Hello everyone, I built this new PC with all new componentes (Except for a very very old case, but that shouldn't matter, the PSU is new), and it's crashing all the time while gaming. The exact components are: -CPU: AMD Ryzen 3 3200g -GPU: AMD Vega 3 -Motherboard: Asrock A320M-HDV R4.0 (BIOS factory default 3.70) -RAM: 2x4 GB Kingston 2666 MHz KVR26N19S6/4 -SSD: Kingston A400 480 GB The PC works, it boots up (And quite fast at that), I can use office programs, internet browsing, no problem. However, when gaming I get constant BSOD, always the same error code: "THREAD_STUCK_IN_DEVICE_DRIVER" I tried updating the BIOS from version 3.70 to version 4.00, and I still get the crashes. Last night, I was able to play for about 3 hours no problems, but today I couldn't play one whole CSGO competitive match without crashing. I noticed something interesting, it's always when using an internet browser on the backgroud while the game was on. I guess it could have been other programs, but I tested while whatching YouTube videos. I tried a few times, and indeed the game worked fine until I put on a video. It's not instant, and it seems kinda random, but it's what I could gather. Also, for some reason (As of now, I'll keep testing), the PC only crashed when using Microsoft Edge. I went around 20 minutes watching with Chrome and it was fine, then used Edge and within 3 or 4 minutes it crashed. I repeated this a couple times. It could have been just coincidence, but I don't know. Other thing that got my attention is the low CPU and GPU usage while playing. It never reached 100% in either of those, even with Vsync off and unlimited framerate. It's not thermal throttle, according to HWMonitor and Speccy, temps were cool at about 40º-50ºC. I'm thinking about downgrading the BIOS to version 3.30, which is the first one to support the 3200g. But I wanted to ask opinions on what to do here, and if someone had similar problems. I don't think this is the problem, but I'm not using a 80 plus PSU. Since it's a low power build, I thought spending lots of money on a good PSU was a waste, and just went for a generic one, with at least a little bit of power on the 12V line (rated for 32 A, it should be more than enough, but I'm throwing this here just in case). This is the PSU: http://lnz.com.ar/index.php/producto/sx-550-watts/ Now this may be a bit silly but... are short circuits with the case possible? I'm guessing if that was the case the PC wouldn't work at all, but since it's pretty old and uses a kinda different mounting mechanism for the screws... idk, I really don't think so, but yeah... I still can ask for a refund, so that's my chance, I have 2 weeks to fix the problem, but I don't want to get to that. I rather fix the problem. My main suspect here is the motherboard, but I can't be sure, maybe the CPU or RAM? So... If anyone could help me, I'd be extremely grateful, I hope I can find an answer soon.

Thanks so much to everyone here! You helped a lot