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siggerzz

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About siggerzz

  • Birthday Jun 26, 1995

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    DOWNFROMTHESKY123
  • Twitter
    siggerzz

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United Kingdom
  • Occupation
    Test Analyst

System

  • CPU
    Intel 4790K
  • Motherboard
    Asus Sabertooth Z87
  • RAM
    Corsair Dominator Platinum 1600MHZ DDR3 (2x8GB)
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 780 Superclocked
  • Case
    Corsair Obsidian 750D
  • Storage
    Kingston Hyper X 3K 120GB SSD, WD Caviar Black 1TB HDD
  • PSU
    Corsair AX860
  • Display(s)
    Dell 27" Ultrasharp U2713HM 1440P, Samsung 42" LED TV
  • Cooling
    Corsair H100i
  • Keyboard
    HHKB Pro w/ Topre switches, Tex Yoda w/ Cherry MX Clears
  • Mouse
    Steelseries Sensei Raw
  • Sound
    Creative Soundblaster Z, Tannoy M20 MKII Speakers, Littledot I+ Headphone amp, AKG Q701/Sennheiser HD700 Headphones
  • Operating System
    Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit
  1. Weird, I plugged it into a x4 slot instead of x1 and it works fine, even the ASUS wireless utility
  2. Odd, all the issues I read were from people that did clean installs. what driver did you use? I managed to get it working briefly using a driver that they've now pulled, however I was only getting 20mbps (Should be getting 90). Is your asus utility working as well?
  3. Hey guys, I recently upgraded to an Asus PCE-AC68 Wireless AC card, was just wondering if anyone has managed to get it working on Windows 10? Asus initially stated that it was PnP, however they seem to have retracted that after some people couldn't get it working. I saw some forum posts (posted a few weeks ago) saying that they were releasing a driver but couldn't find any recent posts regarding the issue. Anyone have a solution? Cheers,
  4. All working now, it was a dead CPU! I didn't send my CPU to my friend, just ended up buying a 4790K and hoping that it was the cause. Turns out that my new board arrived DOA (still won't power up), however everything's running smoothly on my old board Thanks for the help everyone!
  5. Okay, so I did a quick test before I sent my CPU: I tried powering on my old board without the CPU plugged in, and it boots fine, even with the 8-pin plugged in. I did the same test on my new board, but I still won't stay powered on. Could be a few things: 1. My old board didn't break, it just refused to boot because the CPU is screwed. 2. My new board arrived DOA 3. My new board doesn't support booting without the CPU in.
  6. Crap, I really hope my new board isn't DOA . I re-seated the CPU and still nothing, I'll check again after work and see if there's any bent pins. If worst comes to worst, I'll send my CPU to a friend of mine to test in his board. Forgot to mention in my OP, but originally using my old board, when I powered it on there was a slight electrical burning smell coming from around the CPU area. I originally thought this was a bad cap on my board, hence why I replaced it, but maybe It was the CPU all along and would explain why it booted fine without the CPU 8-pin on my old board? Another reason why I think the CPU is at fault is that my new board (EVGA Z87 Classified) has a debug LED, when I power it on, just before it cuts out, the code 'C' is displayed on the debug LED, apparently this is displayed when the board doesn't register the CPU. Although this may be because it isn't powered on long enough for a legitimate code to be displayed.
  7. Finally got my motherboard through, tried booting it up and still the same issue Is it the CPU?
  8. Okay, think I found what you're after: http://www.moddiy.com/products/20%252dPin-USB-3.0-Internal-Header-Y-Splitter-Cable-(12cm).html
  9. I may have misunderstood what you're after, but is it something like this? http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/cables/internaldatacables/usb3.0/Akasa/AK-CBUB09-15BK.html?gclid=COiO-4W1isYCFWjMtAodQC8AgA#utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=products Edit: I just looked at the other images and didn't realise It split into USB, I thought It split into 2 headers. Still looking for something....
  10. Remove your CMOS for 30 seconds and then powering back up. Usually tends to fix a lot of issues where the PC boots but there's no display on the monitor.
  11. Try powering off your PC, removing the CMOS for 30 seconds and rebooting.
  12. ^ This. It's probably a short.
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