phongle123

Since the Ryzen 1600AF is a 12nm part which is part of the 400 Series MB and 2000 Series CPU launch. I'm wondering if using an old 300 Series board would require a BIOS update to the 2000 Series CPUs to be able to use the Ryzen 5 1600AF.

@Donut417 @Thirdgen89GTA I know what plex pass does. I am currently using the non-PlexPass plugin still allows me to use Live TV and Hardware Transcoding. The only different I see is that the PlexPass Plugin gets updates sooner as it is a higher Version Number than the non-PlexPass Plugin. I think that is the only difference.

This isn't exactly a server question just a I am wondering question so I don't think it belongs inside of Servers. What's the difference between Plex Media Server and Plex Media Server (PlexPass) if you already have a PlexPass? Because when I installed the Plugin only the Plex plugin was available and the PlexPass Plugin did not exist. If I am currently using the Plex Media Server Plugin and NOT the Plex Media Server (PlexPass) Plugin and I currently have PlexPass as well. Is there anything that I am missing out on by using the non-PlexPass Plugin? Thank you.

To concur it will be fine. All of my current AA and AAA NiMH batteries are rated at 1.2V. I use a nitecore charger rated at 1.48V +/-1% and it is able to measure the voltage of the batteries it is currently charging. When they are fully charged they are anywhere from 1.46-1.5V. When they are drained and I put them in to charge, they start off at 1.2V.

Just received this Folder Corruption like I stated in the Original Post. I suppose this means that the supposed Firmware Update did not fix the problem. All other folders are working. I cannot delete this folder, however, I can rename it.

Hi, the SSD is used as a portable SSD while it is possible to RAID1, it is not convenient having to use 2 USB 3.0 ports and software raid on a laptop. Plus having to buy a 2nd expensive 4TB 860 EVO. I did an edit I do not know if you saw it. There are 2 pictures of the BEFORE and AFTER the RMA. Both CrystalDiskInfo Firmware shows the same Firmware. It would be different if it was updated.

Hello, I purchased a Samsung 4TB 860 EVO which during it use corrupted twice both times in under 7 days each (around 5-7 days each) of its format and adding in files. The corruption sometimes was an entire folder: EX: When I try to access "File X" inside of "Folder A" it would say this file is not found or something then when I refresh the whole folder is gone from the drive. Without me deleting it. Finally, some days after it would turn on and then the whole drive is inaccessible and requires me to format to use it. A check in Disk Management says that the drive is a RAW drive now. After 2 corruptions into a RAW drive I RMA'd the drive. I received an email about them receiving the drive then another email in under 24 hours that said that service was done. I received the drive today and it says that the only repair they did was "INSTALL FIRMWARE UPDATE". I highly doubt a lower firmware is the cause of the problem. However, I used CrystalDiskInfo to check on the drive before and after repair and the Firmware is the same. So it doesn't look like they even updated the firmware of the SSD. I will post images at the bottom. I use this as an external drive which I access/work from on the go. I do not want another corruption on the go and lose a lot of data again. Is it safe to use this drive now? The image below is what happens when the drive becomes corrupted. The drive is originally formatted NTFS. This is the BEFORE RMA picture. This is the AFTER RMA picture. The Write is high because I had to do almost 4TB writes each time. The initial time, the first corruption, then the 2nd corruption. This is why I am asking now because it takes a long time to transfer all of these files from a HDD>SSD since it's not from SSD>SSD. It would be a waste of time and effort if it corrupts again.

Hello, I am wondering if moving from a USB 2.0 Stick to a USB 3.0 Stick for my FreeNAS OS boot drive will help outside of just faster booting. Thanks.

Hello, I did some googling and it says that I should only use an external NTFS drive as a read-online drive. I was wondering if I could plug in an external NTFS drive and use it to transfer files to the NAS which would be faster than transferring it through the network. If yes, how would I do this? Thank you.

Take it like this. If the game you currently play is 100%ing your GPU Usage then upgrading CPU will not help (i.e. multi-threaded game) even if your CPU is at like 20% usage. Not all multi-threaded games will take advantage of high core counts, so your GPU may not hit 100% and upgrading CPU in this case will help but not as greatly as the scenario in the next sentence. If your GPU is not at 100% Usage then a CPU with a better single threaded performance will help.

Most will say absolutely and don't go below 3200Mhz. Because it has been pretty established that at 3000 or 3200Mhz is when Ryzen's extra performance from memory speed begins to diminish. Since you already have the 2666Mhz RAM it isn't worth to spend another 60$ or so to get a 3000/3200Mhz RAM just to replace your 2666Mhz. There are a lot of RAM Speed charts out there that I suggest you Google to find. Then you can figure out if spending is worth the difference between 2666 vs 3000/3200 for your use case.

Hello, I had a bad drive which corrupted. I am using a data recovery software to recover the data. The file is about 10MB big but when I recover the file it only gives me 384KB and it does not work. Other files that I have recovered are giving me the correct size. Suggestions? I am not looking to recover deleted files but files from an inaccessible drive. A lot of the programs I am downloading do not show me existing files but they are trying to find deleted files.

Hello, I don't really know where this topic goes. Do not think it is monitors or peripherals. I am looking for a Dual Vertical Arm mount that can hold 33 lbs at least for the bottom portion. I am looking to put a 49" Super Ultrawide which weighs 29lbs on the bottom portion and a 34" Ultrawide on the top portion. The only thing I have found on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Monitor-Standing-Vertical-STAND-V002H/dp/B00MTWCO1U However, I want ones with clamps as I do not want to risk any chances of it tipping over. The only other Dual Vertical with 33lbs only holds 24" (the ones I'm using at 27" displays) and has no reviews. https://www.amazon.com/Vertical-monitor-desktop-mount-swivel/dp/B01EVXPLFK I'm asking if someone knows of one that exists that can hold 2x 27" monitors vertically, 33lbs each, and uses clamps. A reputable arm mount is also important. Thank you.

Thank you for the confirmation. Very appreciated.

Since I do not know the specs of the models I can't really comment on the controller. However, there was the old one that released a couple of years ago with the model# 27MD5KA-B. The new one is the 27MD5KL released July of this year. This is why I opened up this question because according to this article I found from Google: https://www.macrumors.com/2019/07/31/new-lg-ultrafine-5k-limited-to-4k-with-ipad-pro/ This article states that the iPad Pro can be used with the Ultrafine 5K 27MD5KL. To my knowledge, the iPad Pro does not have TB3 capability. Additionally, from the Apple Website: https://support.apple.com/en-am/HT210205 "iPad Pro supports the 2019 LG UltraFine 5K Display at 4K resolution with video, audio, data, and power. iPad Pro doesn't support Thunderbolt 3 displays such as the 2016 LG UltraFine 5K Display. " It says the iPad pro works with the new 2019 but not the 2016 model because the 2016 is a Thunderbolt 3 display. While there's no confirmation, it looks like the 2019 model supports other types of display connections as well.

Hello, I have been googling but I am confused. Does the LG Ultrafine 5K 27MD5KL have Displayport extension over the USB-C TB3 port? Meaning can I use this monitor with a non-TB3 capable motherboard or GPU?

Please re-read.

Unlike a CPU which when overheated can kill cores a GPU doesn't apply as such. A GPUs performance will not degrade and lifespan should also be negligible by the time you are to upgrade. What I'm asking is if running it at 88C will suddenly kill. Let's give it a timeframe of 2 or 3 hours at any given time.

Hello, I'm running my RTX GPUs at 88C. I understand that around 82C it still start to throttle and 88C is the max temperature set by Nvidia. I need an answer on the safety of running the cards at 88C. Of which, Nvidia has set as the limit. However, is this a safe limit to be running at? Previous generations had a limit of 94C and while I can't exactly find any articles relating to the temperature at which the RTX card would have problems. I'm assuming the decrease from 94C to 88C is less of an architectural change and more of a safety design. In the picture, my GPUs are overclocked to +125/+600 and on my lowest GPU it sticks around the 1900 Mhz. When I remove the overclock it fluctuates between the 1500-1820Mhz frequently while staying at 84c on said GPU. GPU 2 is the top GPU with 1 slot of airflow. GPU 3 is the middle GPU with Hybrid AIO. GPU 1 is the bottom GPU with 2 bottom fans. GPU 2 and 3 also have a side fan directly pointed at it. I don't want any answers like you should be running your GPU below 60C at all time. Thank you very much.

What you're gonna wanna do is use force to try to get the standoffs back inside of the screwholes. You won't damage your board unless you jerk the screwdriver onto the board. Then use force to unscrew the screw. Second option is to simply use pliers to hold the standoffs while you unscrew them.

The above comment from OP pretty much answer your question @CircleTech Just from reading what you stated without asserting my own assumptions. The problem seems to lie with the Riser Cable. Since the mATX build worked previously without any hiccups and since you transferred almost everything. This means that additional components are the problem. If this is coming from the Stock Phanteks Shift Riser then this is a problem many people have had.

Thanks for the reply. However, this causes everything to become dark not just the taskbar. On the original, it is still on light mode but the taskbar is dark.

Hello, I've installed the latest ISO from the Microsoft website onto my USB stick which comes with version 1903. When I install it onto my laptop the taskbar is white. I've tried messing around with themes and it doesn't work unless I've not changed the right settings. The original or previous USB that came with version 1809 will still make my taskbar black but this new USB makes my taskbar white. What's the solution to this? Thank you.

The install was prior to 5.5 which was required before installing 5.5. Note that the same driver version is required for 5.5 and 5.6. This means that I didnt have to do a re-installation to update to 5.6. The 3xxx chip did not work BEFORE the re-installation. That was why I re-installed the driver. If it worked then I wouldn't have re-installed it and if it did cause the problem I would have stated it in the OP.

I installed it prior to 5.5 and I re-installed it again after 5.6 and it automatically checked for the latest update during the re-installation. The installation was done on 1xxx chip since I cannot boot into and cannot install it in safe mode on 3xxx.