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I have played about 10k hours of FPS shooters and there are some great mice but never a perfect one. And I have went through many brands. When I hold my mouse (BenQ Zowie EC1-A, I like the big version over the EC2 for my hand) my index finger naturally, and when playing intensely, rest on the mousewheel. Just look at your knockles how they aren't perpendicular with your arm, but rather turn right a little. I can obviously force myself to hold on the correct buttons, but it isn't ergonomical, and I don't understand why all mice I see on the market have a mousewheel perfectly in the middle of the mouse when it would be slightly better about 0.5-1cm to the right, while obviously also needing to make more space for the middle finger then. Just change the whole shape of the mouse completely so it looks ugly but is effective. (Not buying Razer, they break for me, all of them). Any mice like that out there? EDIT: I should add that this is only when I hold the mice with a claw-grip, but that is also how I play intensely.

I fixed the problem!! Just wanted to share if anyone run into the same issue. All I did to fix was load default settings for BIOS. Either it's because I hadn't loaded default settings after flashing BIOS and therefore interfering with some settings or whatever, or maybe something hardware related to the orange LED light that I had turned OFF, I don't know and I really don't bother to figure out exactly what the problem was. I will just have the LED flashing if that makes the system be able to consistently hybrid sleep while also cutting power to the system. It also fixed a problem regarding my GPU not loading properly the first 20 seconds in windows, which I wrote about here https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/1047100/gtx-1080-only-registers-1-minute-after-login-/

Thanks for trying to help, but that is not how I believe hybrid sleep works. Hybrid sleep will load everything from the RAM to the hard drive when pressing sleep, so that the computer will be able to continue if power to the system is lost. Works like sleep, just with the difference that it can continue after power loss because RAM is volatile memory, so all memory is put on the non-volatile SSD. I have always done this on my former PC's. I just like to cut the power as a safety measure. "Allow hybrid sleep" is On. I don't think it's a software issue, since I have been through everything, even trying out different combinations of Fast Boot in BIOS to see if that would do anything. And in Control Panel\Hardware and Sound\Power Options\System Settings "Turn on fast startup (recommended)" is OFF (since it doesn't really do anything for me). And in account settings -> Sign-in options "Use my sign-in info to automatically finish setting up my device after an update or restart" is OFF because it saves the workload like hybrid sleep does, just with the difference that you can never truly shut off your pc to have clear ram because if you shut down and turn it on again, it will open Google Chrome with all tabs opened as when you shut down the PC for example, a horrible option that more people should be aware of. But I tried all kind of combinations and restarted my PC so many times to troubleshoot. Thanks for the help Still don't know what to do though..

Hi I just recently build a PC and for some reason it doesn't remember my workload when I put it to sleep, atleast not consistently, especially if I turn off the power on the wall. But my old desktop PC had no problems with hybrid sleep even if I turned off the wall power. I assume it has something to do with the motherboard? Anyone else with ASUS TUF Z370-PRO GAMING who has run into the same problem? I don't know if it's a problem that will make it possible to send it back and get a new, especially because I don't know for sure if it's the motherboard. Could be the m.2 SSD or RAM too(since hybrid sleep uses the SSD). Full system, BIOS and drivers are the newest. Windows 10 64bit Intel i7-8700K (no OC) Gainward GeForce GTX 1080 Phoenix "GS" Corsair Vengeance LPX Black DDR4 3000MHz 2x8GB (Running at 3000Mhz) Samsung 960 EVO M.2 500GB ASUS TUF Z370-PRO GAMING Corsair Hydro Series H115i (2x Corsair ML140 PRO) eVGA SuperNOVA 750 G3 Creative Sound Blaster Z Seagate Barracuda ST4000DM004 4TB NZXT S340 Elite Midi Tower Matte Black Please help. Thanks in advance

Wow apparently I can't run AHCI on my SSD and RAID on the two HDD's separately. So I culdn't start up my pre-installed Windows when making a RAID in the BIOS. RAID is such an old and outdated prehistoric technology I can't believe how bad it is. When I make a mirror in Windows it even resyncs even though there's no data on it! wow..... I guess I stick with the Windows mirror but it's just so bad.

I'm gonna make a RAID 1 in the BIOS intead. I'm gonna tell you if it works.

Hey I have now had my two 3 TB HDD's in RAID 1 for a couple of days and every day they recync which takes many hours. It kind of ruins the purpose of redundancy when it's just wearing out the drives. When I search on Google people suggest it's something with the power or maybe a software to hardware communication error. Though I can easily restart my PC after resync is done without it starting to resync again. I can also shut down the PC and turn it on again with no problem. It's after I have slept and turn the PC on again when it's a new day it starts to resync. (Yes I turn off the power in the socket and pull out the cable when I have shut down the PC properly). My guess is that it maybe has something to do with the motherboard? Maybe fast boot or something? When the PC is shut down and all fans stops, some red light on the motherboard is still glowing. The way I created the RAID 1 volume was just in Disk Management -> add mirror. Don't know if there's anything to be done in BIOS or something. Here's my system: Windows 10 Pro Seagate Barracuda ST3000DM008 3 TB RAID 1 Western Digital Red WD30EFRX 3 TB RAID 1 Intel i7-4790K @ 4.7 Ghz overclock Gainward GeForce GTX 1070 Phoenix GS Kingston HyperX FURY Black 2x8 GB (DDR3) Samsung 850 EVO 500 GB Asus Z97-PRO Gamer Corsair RM750 Other PCI-E connected devices: TP-LINK TL-WN881ND (wifi adapter), Creative Sound Blaster Z (soundcard) I really appreciate some help or some clever thougts on the matter Thanks in advance

No problem. I'm master problem solver.

Format and reinstall Windows.

You can't deactivate it.

When your PC is idle on Windows after 5 minutes the computer will start working with the application "Antimalware Service Executable" which is a Windows Defender Service. I don't really know what it does, maybe just moving some files or whatever, but it uses about 5-20% of your CPU on a i7 CPU (give or take). It stops after a while. It's really not something to worry about, but in your case it might shut down your PC.

Hello. Anyone knows if it is possible to make the screen wake up when I receive notifications? It's Android 6.0 but the phone is Oukitel K6000 Pro. The screen is just black and I have to wake up the screen manually (with power button or gestures) to see my notifications. It does vibrate and make sounds, but there's just nothing on the screen unless I wake it up myself. I have tried tirelessly to make it work. Thanks in advance

I have 1800 DPI, 1.8 in-game sensitivty, 6/11 windows sensitivity. So that means my eDPI is 3240, and I would never go any less. I use my wrist to aim, like all players do no matter how little you want to admit it, put putting too much movement on the arm would make it too slow to turn 180 degree. I can do a 90° turn to check corners only using my wrist, 180 I would be using some of my arm too. Just because the numbers may indicate that 3240 is a big number, it really isn't. It's perfect. I've used 1.9 most my life, but 1.9 requires consistently playing every day, so I turned it down to 1.8 and my aim is more consistent if I don't play for some time, but I would never put it any further down, just going from 1.9 to 1.8 was a big gap and I check corners slower, but now I don't notice it anymore, but I did. I'm solo Global Elite, but GE's suck anyway.

Can't help you. But just wanted to let everyone know that the update is really good for something. My tasks in Task Scheduler starts a lot faster! Like some processes starts 5 seconds faster now! Especially Steam starts really fast. So I had to remake all my tasks to start earlier, but it's better in the end.

It seems I have reached my goal. Thanks for the help. At 4.8 Ghz 1.35V Handbrake failed. 4.7 Ghz 1.32V worked perfect. Maybe my CPU isn't the best of all i7-4790K's to overclock. I'm not planning to push the voltage more than 1.35V if you guys say it isn't that safe for 24/7 usage. But I'm happy, 4.7Ghz has way better e-peen potential than 4.6Ghz imo.