Snikerdoodlz

I'm a student, so I use the trackpad sometimes when I take my laptop out and about. But, usually I keep it connected to my desk setup with monitors, a keyboard, and a mouse.

I've never liked trackpads with an integrated click rather than a dedicated button. I will also be in the market for a new gaming laptop, and I'm tentatively waiting until the RTX 40 series makes its way into laptops. Either way, I'm having trouble finding gaming laptops with physical mouse buttons in the current gen. The only thing I found so far is the Asus Studiobook, which looks really great, except it is pretty large. My ideal specs are: - 14" to 15" with a hard limit of a maximum depth of 270mm, as that is what fits in my backpack (the Studiobook is too wide to fit in the pocket). Smaller is better. - RTX 3060 or RTX 3070, plus Ti variants - 1080p screen (would be nice to have since I have issues with display scaling when connected to my setup's external monitors) - large battery, >75Wh - price limit around $2000, definitely not more than $3000. - preference for Ryzen over Intel CPU, but not required The Asus Zephyrus G15 looks great. It's a great size, and some configurations have 1080p screens. But it doesn't have physical mouse buttons Any knowledge is appreciated!

I have used a few devices (laptops, USB docks) that have had options within the Windows sound manager for "Pitch Shift" and "Bass Boost." I like playing around with shifting the pitch of the songs that I listen to on my computer, and I really like punchy bass. Are there any external USB DACs that have these options available in Sound Properties?

I'm in the market for a small Alienware laptop, but the 13 R3 is too big (it's essentially a 15 inch with 13" screen) and the 13 R2, though cheap right now, is getting dated and would be a downgrade from my Gigabyte Aero 14 v7. I actually used to have a 13 R2 with a graphics amplifier until I sold the laptop and GPU for a huge markup during the mining rush (I kept the amp). With Dell having refreshed its laptops with the Alienware m15 and m17, is something like an m13 likely?

I have some personal data to back up (files, photos) that I currently put on external hard drives. I have 1 1TB USB hard drive and a 2TB internal 3.5" drive with an enclosure. I love building PCs, but I can't build one that I'll use since I have to use a laptop for school. Is it a good/bad idea to build a dedicated PC to use to back up my data using RAID 1?

For my computer desk, I use an Altec Lansing ACS 340. I love it since I have analog controls for volume, bass, and treble right beside me that I can adjust very easily and quickly. The speakers themselves are phenomenal, but then again I'm no audiophile. They do hiss when I turn its volume wheel to max, but I can keep it low and just turn up my computer output to mask it. On Newegg currently there is a sale for TEAC LS-M100 3" speakers (https://www.newegg.com/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=Homepage_SS-_-P2_0S6-001D-00012-_-02142019&Index=2) for only $30. Me being a poor high school student, this is definitely in my price range. I'll probably have to either make or buy stands since currently the rightmost side of my desk is occupied by my laptop. However, I'm not too intent on spending much, if anything, on stands, and definitely not $60 or more even. I myself am no audiophile, but I do like quality. Are these speakers worth buying given my current setup?

I just had to repair the drive within recovery mode and it now works.

Update: I force shut down, and it turns on and works fine. However, I can't transfer to the new drive since in the Disk Utility, the entire partition is listed as "occupied" with no free space to shrink. How do I make the drive show the available free space?

My mother has an A1286 macbook. I got her a 512GB SSD for Christmas, but her laptop has a 750GB HDD. I tried shrinking the partition with the Mac Disk Utility, but the operation was not progressing, at least not instantly like I have done in Windows, so I closed it about 10 minutes in. I then verified the volumes and it said that one was corrupted, so then I clicked "repair volume permissions" and it repaired permissions. Not knowing what else to do, I proceeded to restart the laptop and it is currently stuck shutting down. What do I do?

I just figured it out! Since it appeared to only be a problem with Google searches, I had to consider what, if anything, affects searches. I went to my antivirus software, BitDefender, and turned off "Search Advisor," which checks web searches for virulence. I turned it off and now Google searches are snappy!

I played around with different webpages, and it seems like only Google searches take excessively long. Other webpages like eBay or Amazon or Craigslist take only around 200ms (at most 1s) for TTFB (time to first byte) of the initial elements, but Google searches take upwards of 4 or 5 seconds for the first element to load, which is definitely noticeable. The first element, which I think is the webpage itself (since it starts with search?safe=strict and is the same as the URL) of Google searches, not the Google homepage, take excessively long.

Nope. Changing my IPv4 DNS address to those does not help, either.

I have a Gigabyte Aero 14 (i7-7700HQ and 1060) that I bought used with no RAM or SSD. I installed my own parts and loaded Windows by imaging a friend's drive from another Aero and resetting Windows on my own laptop. Everything works fine, except now, when I load webpages in any browser (Chrome, Firefox, or Edge), there is a noticeable and rather annoying 5-second delay before anything shows up. I didn't have this problem on my previous laptop, an MSI GS43VR. This problem persists regardless of whether I am on Wi-Fi or wired connection or whether I have connected peripherals or using by itself on battery or connected to power. In power management, I have set wireless to "maximum performance" on battery and plugged in. I've tried resetting winsock and flushing DNS via cmd and installing new WLAN and LAN drivers from Gigabyte's website, but to no avail. Swapping the RAM and SSD don't do anything, either. As of today (December 19), Windows Update says that I am up to date. Any idea what causes this problem and how I can fix it?

On my MSI GS43VR Windows file explorer sorts files and folders separately by date, so I have one chunk of files sorted by date and another chunk of folders below or above the chunk of files sorted by date. I've tried changing from "date," "date modified," and "date created" to no avail. How to I make Windows File Explorer sort all of my items, files and folders, together as one group by date?

I found out something interesting. The album art only appears on files that are opened in the same folder in which I opened the file with the album art. If I move a file to another folder, the album art disappears. Since the album art appears and disappears on both VLC and WMP, my guess is that the album art becomes associated with the particular folder by Windows.

I deleted the said files and restarted my computer. Nothing happened

I downloaded a song and it had some metadata including album art. All of my other songs are bare mp3 files with no metadata or album art. Now whenever I open any audio file both with Windows Media Player and VLC the album art of the song that I downloaded shows up. How do I remove that?

Gotcha. Thanks for your help!

Sorry, your wording is a bit confusing. You can or can't look at wattage for switches?

Actually I think that it's AC. It has 3 prongs. I was looking on Amazon and I saw DC-rated switches that only had 2 terminals. So it's useless

It doesn't specify AC or DC. Also, to my understanding 6A * 250V = 1500W and 54V * 25A = 1350W. Even at max load my bike pulls less wattage than the switch is rated for, but you say that the current will destroy it. Does a switch's rated current not also go with its voltage to determine maximum rated wattage, or does current only matter for switches?

I've been thinking about adding a hardware on/off switch to the wire circuit on my electric bicycle, but I haven't yet found a suitable switch. However, today I found a 6A 250V switch at a garage sale. My ebike pulls up to 25A at 54V, but I usually draw no more than 13A at cruising speed. Will this switch work, or will it cut off at 6A no matter the voltage?

I just got a used Olympus PEN E-PL1 body off eBay without a lens. I bought it to use as a general purpose shooter for trips and vacations. I bought an Asahi Pentax SMC Takumar f2 55mm lens and an M42 to M4/3 adapter to go with it. How would that lens work with that camera? Also, what are good all-purpose lenses (no crazy wide macro or crazy zoomed lenses) that could work for it for about 30 or under? I'm a dilletante and am not committed to buying professional or expensive gear. P.S. What about these vintage lenses like the Pentax that I bought that have Thorium? Is the radiation anything of concern?

While playing Overwatch I usually hit 80 to 81, maybe as high as 85. The card is probably about a year and a half old, but the previous owner used it only for about 20 hours total. I'm going to put more hours on that

Sell or part out on eBay. Are you on Nextdoor?