Cy-Fy

Cant say as I dont use cellular internet in this type of way. Id image a normal router would have better WIFi penetration in your home than a phones hotspot, besides that none that I can think of. 

You'll probably need to create an account with them first. Also, you should go with Virgin if possible. Might be a pain if they need to dig your driveway up for the cable connection but honestly worth it 110%. Virgin over DSL is the same as every other provider because they all use the same OpenReach wiring. The only difference is the company themselves giving a crap about their customers.

I have to say nice things as my wife works for them. Normally get decent speed but not the cheapest and I'm not a fan of the wifi router. I would go for one of the smaller companies or take a look at a price comparison website.

I'm currently with BT, and they have been fine, only paying £20 p/m for Fibre upto 70mb
 
Ive also had Virgin aswell and they have been good aswell

Yep that seems like a reasonable approach. Great shots btw, yea I see what you mean but in my opinion the saturation makes your images pop without looking unnatural 👍

Thanks, it's good to hear from people who have tried the same/similar stuff instead of just trying to compare spec sheets. I will look into those you recommend, thanks!

as a 200D/SL2 owner I don't feel like the 250d/sl3 is that great of a body.

I'd look at a used XT-30 over an XT-2. I see them coming with the 15-45 kit lens used for 750$, new they are 1000$ or with the 18-55 for 1300$
An X-S10 is going to have a larger grip and be closer to an XT-4 with in body stabilization for 1400$ with the 18-55 and 1500$ with a 16-80

I'd go X-S10 with the 16-80mm F4 as thats a great focal range and equivalent to a 24-105 on a FF body
 

I’ve used flagships and mid range bodies from every major brand except Nikon because screw Nikon bodies lol. In my experience with Sony, Canon, and Fujifilm, honestly for what you’re describing, Fuji’s ecosystem is quite impressive. They’re very auto friendly with enough physical manual control to allow you to feel like you’re actually the one changing the photo, and the lenses are pretty darn solid too. I don’t buy or recommend cameras new however. A used Fujifilm X-T2 and an XF 18-55 f/2.8-4.0 would probably suit you well. Just another thing to look into since it seems you currently only are looking at Canon’s offerings. 
 
As for the “growing out” part, wellll that’s a non issue with most good gear. As you get better and skills progress, the biggest upgrades you will be getting are from better lenses. I started shooting with my EOS R and my Sony A7R II with vintage FD glass and a Nikon macro, simply because I enjoy manual focus. In the time since, I’ve grown as a photographer, and expanded my lens collection, to suit what I can currently do. I’ve never lost the allure of manual control though, so everything I do on my R is manually focused even though it has one of the most advanced AF systems of any consumer camera body 😅
 
Hope that helps.
 
Note: I recommend Fujifilm over the choices you described because I don’t feel like an RP or a 250D are great for what you’re describing. If you get the 250D, and a bunch of EF lenses, well then upgrading the body to a full frame will be easy because all of those lenses will be compatible, whereas Fuji doesn’t even make full frame bodies, just really good crop sensor ones. So think about what will be better for you.

Umm…do you know what EF and RF even are? This reads like you read a short Google review and then pasted the gist here.
As someone who has owned two Rs, the ecosystem is pretty solid with EF glass, but also as someone who has an intense dislike of the RP due to its dynamic range at low ISOs, it’s hard to recommend.
 
TL;DR please do not attempt to discuss topics you do not know much or anything about.

I use a bluetooth mouse, but only to give the people I play against a chance. 

I really can't understand your opposition to using a 2.4ghz dongle. They're tiny, and most people have at least 3-4 USB ports on their computers they never use. 
 
But yes, gaming on a bluetooth mouse (assuming gaming means anything where reaction time matters at all and not just something like, say, Civ) would be handicapping yourself quite a lot. 

Using a gaming mouse in Bluetooth mode is pointless, since you are limited to 125Hz and by the added input delay of bluetooth. If you have no intention of using the dongle just get a good non-gaming bluetooth mouse, like the Logitech MX Master.

Bluetooth have higher latency than a dongled wireless mouse, even with apple magic mouse.
Can't recommend it for gaming, that's why many performance mouse is still using 2.4mhz dongle.

@Cy-Fy Mx Master 3 is way better then any of those if you are working don't even bother with bluetooth gaming mouse unelss you arte willing to  use usb dongles. 

https://www.malwarebytes.com/adwcleaner/
https://www.malwarebytes.com/
Download these two and run them. If you have your own *paid* antivirus then you can skip the second one just do the first.

I'm a mech e and do a lot of work with the consumer electronics industry.
 
Basically, apply to the big companies-- apple, microsoft, google, etc. If you're partway through school, apply for internships. If you're close to done, apply for jobs. You'll need to relocate unless you live in a company's backyard.
 
If you're not close to graduating yet, I would highly suggest doing everything you can to be a competitive applicant-- the big companies only hire the best, so make sure you are one. Excellent grades, documented team project work, interdisciplinary everything, solid internships, excellent verbal and written communication skills, etc. You may also want to consider some amount of grad school-- if your school offers a BS/MS degree option, I'd jump on that wholeheartedly. Interdisciplinary is not a buzzword to you any more, it's a way of thinking.
 
Mech Es in consumer electronics are everywhere, and not as much in manufacturing as you'd expect-- that's the primary, though non-exclusive, domain of industrial and manufacturing engineers. Mech Es are everywhere from materials to reliability to failure analysis to design to packaging to thermals to simulation to.......you get the point-- we're generalists by definition. What classwork areas do you enjoy? You will figure out what parts you do/don't have a knack for, but painting with a very broad brush, you'll want to have good working knowledge of stress/strain and solid mechanics, materials science, fatigue analysis, thermals and heat transfer, design for manufacturing and assembly, and more. Basically every class you take as an ME, with the possible exception of Fluids, is important to working as an ME on teams in the consumer electronics industry. At least that's been my experience w/r/t curriculum applicability. Also-- learn Solidworks (or whatever professional CAD package your school uses), learn to code Matlab and Labview, and familiarize yourself with FEA. If you know other software packages, great! If you don't know those at a minimum, you aren't that competitive. Finally-- I know it's hip to not use MS Office, but you must know how to use Excel, Powerpoint, and Word, fluently. Industry does not run on google docs or open office for professional work.
 
The advice from other posters is also excellent. Apply to all sorts of companies that sound interesting, not just in specific industries unless you know you want to work in them (in other words, do internships! they're paid for engineers, so do them!)
 
As for my experience working in the industry....to be honest, it's awesome BUT exhausting. The work is quite interesting, but you aren't playing with products like techtubers are. You're working on stuff that's in prototype mode, figuring out how to improve XYZ to meet target requirement ABC, running tests, iterating...y'know, engineering. You don't really deal with released product because it's been released-- not much mechanical engineering to be done that isn't QA/Reliability. If that excites you, then great! Hours can be long, deadlines are short and very inflexible, but the work is really cool and you can see the results of your work within a couple years (vs a few years for medical devices or decades for aerospace)

I'm a mechanical engineer in the naval/marine industry. There are certainly job opportunities out there for mechanical engineers in consumer electronics, although they might be harder to find than computer science or electrical, computer, and software engineering jobs. I do know however that a handful of Aero/Mechanical engineers from my graduating class got jobs at Global Foundries.
 
My best advice is to start gaining professional engineering experience now by applying for all the summer internships or semester long coops you can. Not only will doing that make it significantly easier to get a job right out of college, but it will also help you figure out what you like to do. I have a feeling a lot of mechanical engineering jobs in the consumer electronics industry are related to manufacturing processes.

I would look at what interests you, and then try to figure out in what field you would get to do that, rather than solely looking at what industry you wanna be in. The older I've gotten the more I've realised how important that is. Have you done something in school that you truly enjoyed? That excited you?
Also, wherever you end up, one company is not like other. Don't be too quick obviously, but you might hate being in one company and love being in another in the same field. But this is starting to drift off topic

You need to move to Alaska or Texas for oil. You willing relocate. 

I had the S7 Edge. Had no issues with the "Edge".
In Fact, i even liked/enjoyed the features it gave me - mainly the Shortcuts to keep the homescreen clean.
 
almost 5 Months into Oneplus right now. I do miss the Edge features a little.
 
 
S10 is a great phone lineup.
S9+ is still devent, but keep in mind: 1 year older = 1 year less updates remaining.
I just wouldnt really get an S9 - because it does have only 4gb Ram. If you use multiple apps at the same time, switching between them, you will already notice 4gb beeing a bit limited.
If you think about using it for the next 4 years again, then i promise you, having 6gb or even 8gb will pay off compared to 4gb. With enough multitasking, it did pay off 1-2 years ago. Lighter usage, it will pay off a bit later. Apps/software gets bigger and bigger over time.
 
Also, S10e is cheaper than s10/S10+, and is still very decent. If you come from an S4, this will still be a size-upgrade.
And it is indeed a very compact flaggship phone.
If you want a compact phone, and it doesn't need to be Samsung, consider Pixel 3. Goes for <599€ already often here in Germany (849€ MSRP from Google store), even Pixel 3 XL went to 600€ recently.
 
@ 6.4" phones nowadays: Most people get used to it.

I've read good things about the S10e, less problematic unlock with sensor on the side rather than on the screen. Two instead of three cameras at the back isn't a deal breaker for most (lacks ultra-wide mode compared to bigger siblings), similar specs to the S10/S10+ I believe but smaller battery capacity (but is offset by smaller screen). I have the S10+ 128GB version, the issue is with finding a good tempered glass screen protector (SP) that works with the screen finger print (FP) sensor. I'd gotten one that works about 50% of the times I'd tried unlocking the phone.

Pick the correct screen size as first priority, they are all taller and have different aspect ratio as prev line up(16:9) if you hold them side by side, its like at 16:9
s10e = 5.2"
s10 = 5.5"
s10+= 5.7"
 
if you watch 16:9 un-distorted videos alot, you can ignore s10e
 
as for the curve , I could say it feels good in hand, but because of its ultra thin side, you need to adapt holding it right and get used to accident touches to side screen. 
there is always reflection on the edge screen....
 

It lacks the telephoto not the ultra wide, only the S10 and S10 plus have a telephoto

I had meant that, but got my terms mixed up. Another plus in favor of the S10e, no curved edge

the exchange you use will most likely ask for a picture of your government issued ID and your SSN for tax reasons before they let you buy any coins
 
after you make $600 on coinbase I think the tax thing kicks in. not sure about other exchanges