MySelfLuls

Good luck with that, hoping it will work out for you and that replacing the board is the solution. Please mark this thread as "Solved"

Sadly, this sounds like the right option now, if you have tested with seperate RAM and even graphics card, RMA the motherboard and hope that a new one solves the problem.

Alright, let's try flashing your BIOS to see if that makes a difference, but first let's see what version you currently have. Again go under Windows + R and type " msinfo32" Under System Information you should see a BIOS Version/Date, if that version is not F4 or the date is not from 2017, we need to flash your BIOS. IF I found the correct one from your post This should be your motherboard. It should link directly to the support section, where you click on BIOS and download the latest version (F4) from 2017, then flash your BIOS.

I'd try WhoCrashed by Resplendence which should pull out some BSOD errors, even if you do not get them on your monitor there might still be some logs left over which it can pick up. Let me know if you have any results, what the error is and we can try figuring something out.

Hi! This might be slightly related to "gone through literally everything", but give this a try: Press the windows key and type "sigverif" then press enter. This should open the Windows File Signature Verification Utility which will scan for files without a digital signature. If this does not work, try to disable APM under your BIOS if that is enabled, or else try to flash your BIOS to make sure it's the newest version (It usually never is!) Since this is probably related to your RAM and if the previous steps did not work, i'd recommend running Memtest86 to see if your RAM is faulty.

I can recommend the Sabrent USB 3.0 to SATA/IDE Adapter which basically requires another computer/laptop to transfer the data to. Acquiring the hardware is the trickiest part. Once you have the hardware, all you need to do is use the appropriate side of the adapter (it has a side for 3.5 IDE, 2.5 IDE, and SATA), make sure the drive jumpers are set to Master (if the drive is old enough to use a jumper system, modern SATA drives rarely use jumpers), plug the adapter into a USB port on your computer, plug in the power via the molex adapter unit, and then turn the switch on the power cable on to provide power to the drive. If your drive does not appear, and you’ve properly connected both the power and data cables, there’s usually only three culprits: 1) it’s an older drive and you need to set the jumpers properly, 2) the drive’s file system is unreadable by your OS, or 3) the drive is damaged. Remember, what you’re doing to the drive with the data/power adapter cable is essentially mounting it as you would with an internal drive (but without the hassle of cracking open the case). If your computer can’t read the drive under those circumstances (because the drive has an incompatible file system or is physically degraded/damaged), then it won’t be able to read it over the USB setup either. it’s as simple as plug and play. For $20 you have a hassle free way to check your drives, retrieve old data, compare it to your backups, wipe the data, and otherwise interact with the drives as if they’re mounted right in the computer case.

Hello, There is a pretty through guide about the No POST problems, i'd recommend trying these things.

Even mentioning Photoshop should take you up to 16GB, especially if you want it running in the background (together with a game?) Related to your chrome tabs, should not affect it too heavily, but if you would prefer to save money and keep some programs closed unless you use them or else you're probably going to run up and need 16GB of ram.

Now it basically just seems like you are firing at every single antivirus, then what DO you use when you even mention one such as Malwarebytes to be unsafe?

I feel like you could say that for every company out there, after a bit of searching I only found one case with Avast holding on to some data logging through adware which was removed a few months after being pushed to live.

AVG has also been removed from my recommended list, not because of the company but because of it lacking in tests. However I'd like you to elaborate as of why you would call Avast being on your list or AVG for that sake without mentioning previous events in the company which was fixed (the ting you mentioned previously)

Probably not going to happen, they merged with AVG which has a CEO with a pretty open mind about mentioning bad stuff like this. Generally Avast deserves its trust because of how good it performs.

What I also wanted to point out was that Avast does not provide adware, spamware or any other programs under it/update/install anymore. Apologies for not being clear enough previously, I did however test this very recently.

I can't know how long ago you experienced this, however Avast has undergone a huge change and has improved a lot both as a company and as a security program. Avast provides people with effortless security, just download and leave it be and you'll be sure the not so tech savy can still be protected.

For that I need to quote a "little" whistleblower "Arguing you don't care about the right to privacy because you have nothing to hide is no different than saying you don't care about free speech because you gave nothing to say" -Edward Snowden