Strayan_Hades

You need a POWERED hub at the end else they will run into power issues and simply shut off.
 
Basically a usb 2.0 extender over enther et is 50$ and a optical hdmi cable of that length is about 100$. Then a random POWERED usb hub. Thats all you'll need.

just get an optical HDMI 2.1 Cable and you should be good to go
or if you have a Thunderbolt equipped computer
you can get a dock and a fiber optic thunderbolt cable from Corning and that can handle your displays and USB connection
but I don't think it can handle HDMI 2.1

Yes and no, depends what your inputs are. I generally prefer to have gaming consoles/PC's connected straight to TV to reduce any potential input lag. The audio will be 'backfed' through ARC to the receiver so you'll still get the full 5.1/7.1/Atmos audio (if the content has it). Though I think that's kind of irrelevant with the state of receivers these days; especially so with ones that can support HFR (60+FPS) 4K, HDR, etc. You can turn off any image processing in the receiver if it makes wiring easier so it shouldn't really be a problem.

Having the in-ceiling speakers makes the Atmos upgrade considerably easier/logical. If you have floorspace or console space beside your TV, you just need some tower/bookshelf speakers to become your front left/right (which IMO is better than in-ceiling anyways, as the sound is pointed straight at you), and your front left/right in-ceilings become proper Atmos height speakers. And then there's also the added bonus of how easy it is to wire for the new fronts as well.
 
Currently the Yamaha A2A is on sale for $800, versus the regular $1000, and compared to the V6A at $750, IMO it's worth the extra $50. Aventage series has better electronic components and some added features above the V-series and what I think is a better industrial design...but that part is purely cosmetic and up to personal preference. Having said that, all of their new receiver ID is a nice update compared to their older RX AV receivers. Speaker models/brands are kind of irrelevant so don't stress too much about that. As long as they aren't considerably old (10+ years..but even then, many are fine at that age) that the surrounds could be rotting. 99% of in-ceilings will be 8 ohm and be able to handle the 100W of power from the receiver. If they are 6 ohm for whatever reason, you can change that setting in the receiver. Only other thing you'd need is a quality HDMI cable to run from receiver to TV, and you'll be able to use your TV remote for powering everything on/off and volume control. Unless there are other components obviously.

Assuming speaker setup like a 5.1/7.1 surround then I would look at current or last gen model versions that have the features you want.  Anything from the last 2-3 years should support any format you'll run across.  You may not know your speaker specs right now but it could help to learn them.  Things like the resistance (2-8ohms?) and how much power (watts) they can use are important to get the most out of them and keep your receiver from being stressed.   Everything out there will do 4k HDMI now, do you care what standard it is?  120Hz 4k is nice to have if you game on a console that supports it and run through the receiver.  Yamaha is a good brand if you wanted to stick with that.  Other bang for the buck brands like Onkyo and Denon are good as well.  Check out the current lineup and if prices don't match your budget be sure to google around for that brand's refurbished store as most will offer deals on slightly used or refurbished units and still provide some warranty on them. 
I wouldn't call any of this expert advice, just enthusiast level.

The big question is what are you connecting to the receiver and what is your budget? What kind of TV/display (new 4K with HDR? or an older 4K without HDR/1080p display), what is your current speaker setup, what devices (Xbox, Playstation, PC, etc) are you using as well? This gets into a chicken-and-egg situation where if you really want the benefit of all the new features receivers have, you could end up needing a new display, additional speakers, and potentially new HDMI cables too (kind of depends on length of runs and other factors).
 
The lack of ARC on that receiver I can definitely see being annoying, so upgrading to a slightly newer receiver just for that would be nice. If you have a Samsung TV, I do know Samsungs and Yamaha ARC/HDMI-CEC can be a little wacky..the TV will power off the receiver, but turning on the TV won't always turn on the receiver. It depends on what 'input' the TV turns on to, the Samsung TV Plus or whatever they call it, or an HDMI input on the TV.
 
I personally would stick with Yamaha, any of the models with MusicCast (doesn't need to be the newerest RX-V# series or whatever) will have ARC (or eARC..if Atmos is definitely in your future, eARC is a sure way to make sure it will work between TV/receiver), and MusicCast is IMO the best remote control app for any home audio system. But if you're on a tighter budget, skip the MusicCast and just grab one of these: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_022RXV385/Yamaha-RX-V385.html?tp=179 . Check ebay and other retailers for a variety of options if you do want to expand to Atmos/7.1 channels. If you want Atmos, the receiver will need to be at LEAST 7 channels (Atmos is at minimum 5.1 + 2 'height' speakers, making 7 discrete channels). You will end up needing to get two more speakers and wiring as well.
 
Let me know if you have other questions or want some specific models/links... I worked as an AV tech for 5+ years so this was a pretty frequent request from clients, but a lot of it depends on your existing setup, budget, and what makes sense to upgrade first.
 
 

With that cpu/mobo, at 1080p, probably even a 6600xt/3060 would be bottlenecked. If you are aiming to get mid-high their gpu, you would probably need to upgrade to even just a am4 5600/x/5700/x, am5 7600/x, i5 12400 or i5 13400, to get that value. A more balance, build would probably something like this:
 
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K 3.5 GHz 14-Core Processor  ($317.24 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: ASRock Z690 PG Riptide ATX LGA1700 Motherboard  ($119.99 @ Newegg) 
Memory: Silicon Power GAMING 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory  ($48.97 @ Amazon) 
Video Card: XFX Speedster SWFT 319 Radeon RX 6800 16 GB Video Card  ($429.99 @ Amazon) 
Total: $916.19
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-08-27 03:12 EDT-0400
 
OR this, if you want to prioritized gpu for gaming.
 
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor  ($219.99 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: Gigabyte B650M K Micro ATX AM5 Motherboard  ($119.99 @ Amazon) 
Memory: Patriot Viper Black 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6200 CL40 Memory  ($72.99 @ Newegg) 
Video Card: PNY VERTO GeForce RTX 4070 12 GB Video Card  ($589.99 @ Amazon) 
Total: $1002.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-08-27 03:27 EDT-0400
 
These are assuming you don't have to upgrade your PSU or get another ssd. You can also just get a different gpu though, as these two cpu wouldn't bottleneck even on the highest gpu available to day or the next gen that would be coming( just an educated guess of course).

There it is, I did the thing, got the physical copy.

 
I bought a license on Black Friday a while back for $10, recently decided to make a tech shadowbox and reached out to support, they sent me a physical copy for another $10.
 

 
However, I'm honestly surprised it made its way to me given the formatting of the shipping label. There was also no sleeve, it was bare disk inside the envelope!
 
I'm an Admin of IT Humor and Memes so I posted it for laughs, where I was met with a barrage of issues on the label. 
 
-Was shipped from Germany, but is listed with Sweden Post.
-Sweden return address, not Germany
-From address isn't complete
-Posten logo hasn't been used since late 00s, company has been rebranded
-Value listed at $5 (was $16.59 CAD with tax and conversion)
-Not my order number
-Nonexistant tracking number
-Commercial Sample
-Listed their phone number, not mine
-Declaration header cut off
-Country of Origin listed as United States
-No senders signature
 
It's clear whatever label maker software they're using is as old as the physical CD deliveries themselves 🤣 seems about the age from when they switched from floppy delivery to CD.
 
Absolutely love it and all its flaws. I'll cherish it for the rest of my life!
 
Inb4 "JUST USE 7zip!!" comments
I'm a Freelance IT and had a client who insisted on sending .rar files password encrypted with AES256 , which Windows and .7zip can't handle (they use the ZipCrypto encryption methods) , figured I might as well get a paid copy and expense it. I know there are other free options, but I've been using WinRAR trial for over half my life so I figured I'd toss them some $$ since I'm in a decent place financially. 

Lets kick off the hardware being bad first. Try to boot it in Safe Mode.

Facebook still exists?

Metaverse about to need a metanurse 💀

End of support is October 2025, so you have a bit over 2 years left: https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/lifecycle/products/windows-10-home-and-pro

a cheap, good wifi 6 router would be the ax 5400 (look for it in your country but in the uk its 100 pounds) TP-Link Next-Gen Wi-Fi 6 AX5400 Mbps Gigabit Dual Band Wireless Router, OneMesh™ Supported, Dual-Core CPU, TP-Link HomeShield, Ideal for Gaming Xbox/PS4/Steam, Plug and Play (Archer AX72) : Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

Might be this?:
Aug 20 09:47:02 rtl_fail:  rtkswitch fail access, restart.
Aug 20 09:47:02 kernel: rtk_port_linkStatus_get() fail, err: -1
Aug 20 09:47:04 kernel: rtl8365mbrtl8365mb initialized(0)(retry:0)
Aug 20 09:47:04 kernel: rtk port_phyEnableAll ok
Aug 20 09:47:05 kernel: txDelay_user: 1
Aug 20 09:47:05 kernel: # txDelay - TX delay value, 1 for delay 2ns and 0 for no-delay
Aug 20 09:47:05 kernel: EXT_PORT:16 new txDelay: 1, rxDelay: 4
Aug 20 09:47:05 kernel: current EXT_PORT:16 txDelay: 1, rxDelay: 4
Aug 20 09:47:05 kernel: rxDelay_user: 4
Aug 20 09:47:05 kernel: # rxDelay - RX delay value, 0~7 for delay setupEXT_PORT:16 new txDelay: 1, rxDelay: 4
Aug 20 09:47:05 kernel: current EXT_PORT:16 txDelay: 1, rxDelay: 4
 
A similar discussion: https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeNetworking/comments/lno5d6/help_me_identify_the_root_cause_of_my_disconnects/
 
 

Linus recently did a similar thing to his home setup, there's a video about it IIRC. But if you don't trust the backboard, consider adding an MDF insert, cut to size, that has the fan attached to it and is jammed between the planks to add some rigidity. Obviously you need to make a hole for each fan, but the backboard doesn't need to support the weight of said fans.

My concerns are the bowing of that shelf. I really would swap the Playstation and the audio box before doing anything permanent.
That being said. I prefer having holes drilled and vent fans added to me. 

Are you using voice activation? If you're using the Automatically determine input sensitivity option, you can uncheck it and play around with the slider until your happy with it.
 

 
If you're using Push To Talk, you can adjust the PTT Release Delay.
 

You could. 

Good comparison.
 
 

some stuff just does not play nice with steam remote play.
 
there's always stuff like parsec and rainway.

As you're using a TV, you can just change the color settings in your picture mode.
 
Also with windows it's strongly suggested that you keep HDR disabled until you need it for a game that supports it. Keep it off for everything else or the color reproduction and contrast will be completely off.

The best solution is to see if the "Modem" offers a bridge mode. Or you use the "Router" as an AP. 

My simple approach to this would be to convert the AC88U to AP mode and assign it a static LAN IP outside of the DSL-AC86U’s DHCP pool. That way, any client device that connects to either device, whether wired or wireless, will be on the same network/subnet.

The DSL-AC68U is not just a modem; it's a gateway device, so it is a modem/router combo in the default working mode. The AC88U is a router in it's default working mode.
 
You've created a double-NAT if you haven't made specific IP address changes. So the reason you can't access one device is likely due to them being on different IP networks/subnets.

A very basic and quick way to help with this is to go to the 'Adjust Desktop color settings'  check 'use nvidia setting', on the drop down select the green color channel, and adjust as needed by eye. You can search online for calibration images to help with this.
 
However the better way is to use a coloromiter (like the X-rite i1 DisplayPro) and create a ICC profile using DisplayCAL.