djdelarosa25
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Posts posted by djdelarosa25
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If not, please offer a better free anti-virus system that is more effective and uses less system resources.
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Long story short, I went to a school far away from home and the people were terrible. Bullies everywhere, no one took school seriously, etc. I ended up going back to my former school where my classmates were always competitive and disciplined. However, I've already missed about two weeks of their schoolwork (they started earlier) and I, being a consistent honor student in my previous years, will have to catch up and it's almost a guarantee that I will get low grades this semester. How do I cope up with failure as I am not used to doing so?
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3 hours ago, skywake said:
If there's more than one access point in range you should go with 20Mhz. If there isn't go with 40Mhz. Though bare in mind that for some reason some devices don't like to connect to a 40Mhz AP for whatever reason. That shouldn't be a problem but I have had issues with that in the past with some devices. Most of the time there's enough overlap of radios on 2.4Ghz that you have no choice but to go with 20Mhz.
But really, it's not so much about your network performance. It's just a good neighbour thing to set your network so it doesn't overlap with their's if possible.
What if the other AP is a WiFi repeater?
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I'm in an isolated area (only one neighbor's WiFi reaches but not everytime, sometimes two of them show up) and my router only supports 2.4 GHz. Should I go for 20 or 40 MHz?
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Hi there. I'm gonna buy a printer for college, and I found a very cheap Canon Pixma iP2870s for P1500 ($30, brand new). I was thinking of buying it and paying someone to convert it to become an ink tank-based printer and just use cheap third party liquid ink to save some costs. However, someone on Reddit told me that conversion is not a good idea and reduces the lifespan of the printer. Instead, he recommended me an ink tank printer (Epson L210, extremely common here in the Philippines and I think the cheapest ink tank printer) for $100. What do you guys think?
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Thanks for the feedback, guys. Can someone give me a list of ad sites? Google is confusing my searches for ad posting sites lmao
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Title says it all.
My TV is a Samsung 49" FHD Curved Smart TV Series 6 (Model Number: K6300), if that helps.
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30 minutes ago, CyberneticTitan said:
In general,
If 2.4Ghz -> 20Mhz
If 5Ghz -> 40Mhz
If you're fairly wirelessly isolated and you have modern devices, go for 40Mhz.
My WiFi modem doesn't support 5GHz, however we are wirelessly isolated (at the moment, the three SSID's that are showing are all from our house) and our devices are modern.
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We have two wireless AP's in the house, one is from the ISP provided router and one is a WiFi repeater. Our area isn't congested, though there are times when two of my neighbors' AP's pop up randomly. Should I set my router's frequency bandwidth to 20MHz, 40MHz, or just leave it at auto?
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7 minutes ago, Mooshi said:
Not really. It's mostly more of a hassle if you lose the micro sd card. That said, a micro SD has more utility than a standard SD card.
Thanks for your replyI guess I might go with the microSD cards as they are cheaper and if they need to fit on a phone that supports it, they're ready for it.
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I'm planning on buying an SD card for my LX100 that's capable of shooting 4K video at 100 Mbps bitrate. Most of the cheaper cards that I find that are up to par with the requirements (Class 10, UHS-1, U3) are microSD cards with adapters included in the package. Is there a speed difference between a standard size SD card vs a microSD card with an adapter?
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Hi guys! I'm looking for a free VPN with high bandwidth allocation (if possible, unlimited) to escape my carrier throttling. Thank you
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Finally got my plan activated today and 1080p30 video is very smooth, with a 20 second buffer headroom for most videos. I am impressed
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Thanks for the feedback! I'm looking for more
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I am torn between these two phones.
Reasons why I like the 3T
- better specs
- looks better
- better supported by OnePlus in terms of software updates (?)
- better 3rd party support (custom ROMs)
Reasons why I like the Z Play
- dat battery (this alone puts it head-to-head against the 3T for me, battery is lyf)
Things I like on both phones
- (nearly) stock Android
For you guys, which is the better buy? I'm ope to other suggestions as well
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8 hours ago, Remix said:
Sorry for the major delay, I finally found time to test this without disturbing too many people. Please note that my results aren't entirely scientific, and will likely vary especially in your usage. I'll explain why.
My findings were that 1080p 30fps video would play on a 3 Mbps connection in my scenario, though it barely hung on. I loaded a ~16 minute 1080p video over wireless, throttled to 3 Mbps at the router (not AP). The buffer-health stayed between 1 second and 2 seconds, so not much buffer room. Any small blip would likely cause buffering. Furthermore, the video took a few seconds to actually play. It's not quick, but when started it'll play. I'd allow it a bit of time by itself to buffer-ahead and compensate for any anomalies with the Internet connection itself. That being said, the two main factors it does come down to are:
- Dedicated Internet: You have to be the only device actively using the Internet, I'm sure if another device was doing even Web-Browsing it wouldn't work very well.
- Buffer: Give it time to load and compensate for any anomalies, otherwise do expect it to randomly buffer.
Now, the part that gets confusing. My guess is that it'd not work given your circumstances. If you're throttled to 3 Mbps, you'll have blufferbloat. Blufferboat is essentially your router sending too much data, and it getting "backed up". In my scenario, I couldn't mimic that because I was on a 250 Mbps connection, and throttling the router manually still left overhead. Speedtests peaked on the router at 2.96. If your ISP does any oversubscription, you do have a shot of video playing. For example, Comcast gives subscribers a 20% oversubscription to compensate for buffer and anomalies. That being said, when I throttled my connection to 3.6 Mbps 1080p video played much more fluent giving me an extra 3-5 seconds of buffer. This may work...
I'm lost of words. Thank you so much, man! This means a lot
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Just now, Aytex said:
Would've helped telling us you're located in Philippines
In my profile info, mate
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Just now, Aytex said:
Moto z play
OnePlus 3T
Axon 7
Z Play - overpriced in the Philippines
3T - if I can convince my mom (God, I hope), it is my main choice
Axon 7 - not available in PH
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Title says it all.
Preferably 5 inches (but 5.5 is okay)
Good build quality
Preferably stock android (if not, good custom ROM support)
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The software alone makes the OP3T better than the S8. As for the looks, I prefer the conservative look of the OP3/T (S8 looks flashy af IMO).
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16 hours ago, Droidbot said:
due to the lower voltage, the laptop is more inclined to drop clockspeeds when under load? run AIDA64 and check the clockspeeds, validate this shit
Just when I thought I solved the problem, micro-stuttering appeared again. So this isn't because of the undervolt.
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So my laptop has been running undervolted for about 10 months now. It is stable, as I recall some time ago when I ran AIDA64 overnight without it crashing. The weird thing is over the past week, I noticed that CS:GO was having micro-stutters everywhere. Whenever there were firefights and grenade explosions and lots of players on the screen, the fps would tank so hard. I tried everything. I reinstalled graphics drivers, reseated the RAM, ran MemTest with no errors, and ran AIDA64 again overnight and no crashes.
Strange, I thought.
I removed my undervolt on the core and cache so that my laptop was now back at stock voltage and magically, my gameplay is fluid again. Can someone explain why this happened?
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So I was playing CS:GO, and the instant this guy headshotted me, my laptop froze and BSOD'ed.
I suspect it could be caused by these things:
1. Undervolted CPU - My core has been undervolted for almost a year now with no problems. However I recently undervolted my cache to the same voltage as the core, as I saw a post stating that the tolerances between the two are the same.
2. Upgraded RAM - I upgraded my laptop's RAM to 8 GB last week through a used 4 GB DDR3L stick. However, after getting the DIMM, I tested it overnight using MemTest (8 passes) with no errors.
3. I overclocked my laptop's display to 75 Hz just a few days ago. Now this is just a guess, but I actually don't think this is caused by this.
Also, for the past few days, I noticed that CS:GO would stutter in a way that I haven't experienced before. I already tried reinstalling the NVIDIA drivers, but the problem still remains.
Thanks to those who will help me out
Here are the files:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzIiD6kgiqeNbWtoY0F2VTE4TFU/view?usp=sharing
Specs:
Intel Core i5-4210H
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 850M
8 GB DDR3L RAM
I'm too afraid of failure
in Off Topic
Posted
Thanks, man. I appreciate your advice