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Yeah, Corsair Scimitar,  Razer Naga and Logitech G600 are hefty for gaming mice. I really am concerned about the buttons beyond Mouse 5. I know with my G502X which has two additional buttons, there is no "Mouse 6" and "Mouse 7", those buttons are not bound at all by default. In the software you have to bind them and you can only pick from existing buttons the OS is aware of, Mouse 6 and 7 aren't even options. 
 
This leads to problems for me if I want to use them in games as I have to bind the mouse to a button then make sure that button is used for that action in game. Then if I ever hit the mouse button outside of that game it'll do whatever its bound to. I've hit "G" many times while typing things accidentally grabbing the mouse and hitting that button. 
 
If someone has more experience with how additional button binding beyond Mouse 5 works that would be great. 

The only wireless MMO style mouse I know of personally is the Steelseries Aerox 9 which is aimed at being an MMO style lighter weight mouse compared to most. If you want the heft and feeling, then I would look at something like the Logitech G600 or Corsair Scimitar. 

This is probably going to be a problem. At least in my experience after the MMB and two side buttons for forward and back, you need to bind additional buttons to existing keyboard buttons. At least this is how its been handled with my Logitech products. 
 
Someone with a Corsair Scimitar may be able to help further. 

To be completely honest you should use one of these: https://www.newegg.com/silver-raijintek-0r100006/p/2T3-0007-00003
Plus some cheapo heatsinks to slap on the memory ICs if you wanted to cool this gpu the way you want to. But for that amount of money you probably could've gotten a better GPU to begin with... such is life.

Noctua 4020s are inaudible - Get about 150W of TGP at 80C
Arctic 4038s @5k rpm are drony - Get about 180W of TGP at 80C (This is what I daily drive as F@H rarely needs more power than this)
Arctic 4038s @15k rpm are jet engines - Get the full 250W TGP at ~65-70C
 
Originally I got this for some local LLM but 24GB of vram is getting borderline for some of the larger creative writing models and the token generation rate of Pascal is just not it chief. I think I'll be getting something Turing based for inference in the future. In the meantime, this is generating science and keeping my apartment warm 🙂 

do you have room to attach two 40mm fans on the end? Due to the heatsink design it isn't possible to flow air in the way you've described. The finstack is enclosed at the end that you want to attach fans to. It's harder to describe but if you look through the fins it'll be pretty obvious what I mean.

I recently designed this adapter to put dual 40mm fans on my P40. Regular 40mm fans can screw in and deeper fans clip on. When I tried with regular noctua 4020s it is somewhat borderline but with proper server fans it can be cooled but is loud.

there is buyer protection on ebay so if you think they sent you the wrong thing you can send it back. Also most refurbished items on ebay have a 1 year warranty
 
for gaming or just home/office use?

Can always check CDW.com, bhphotovideo.com or facebook marketplace and see if a local business is selling off some older hardware.

The monitor in the pic below will be good for your two to three monitor setup with its small bezels and fast as well as the bottom ss as your extra one or two monitors 

Newegg's server cases with 3 or more external 5.25" bays : https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?N=100161262 600006517 600006511 600006516 600006510&Order=1
 
 
Ok, lots of cases with 2 external 5.25" bays in local stores, fewer with FOUR.
 
Deepcool Tesseract SW black has 4  5.25" bays, 4 internal 3.5" and 3 internal 2.5"  : https://www.deepcool.com/products/Cases/fulltowercases/2021/14433.shtml
If you look at the pictures, it seems like there's 4 external 5.25"  and you can see in the pictures of the insides there's 5.25" bays but the description says only 2 external so maybe 2 of them can't be opened to the outside? Not sure... 
 
In local stores, it's 280 RON which is around 60 US dollars. 
 
Inter-Tech Starter 4  had 4 external 5.25" bays and 1 3.5" external one ... but it's a 2014 design, and mostly sold in Europe : https://www.techpowerup.com/204483/inter-tech-rolls-out-the-starter-4-midi-tower-pc-case
It was 36$ in the local stores. 
 

1 external 3.5" is hard ... cases with only 5.25" bays are more common. So you can use an adapter that converts a 5.25" to a 3.5" one and now you have more options available.
If you look on sites like newegg, also look in categories like server cases, 4U cases will have a lot of 5.25" bays or at least hard drive bays.
I'll try to add some suggestions to this post or in a new post when I can (have to go to work now and will probably be busy for a few hours)

If there is a (regional?) PC recycler around (the kind that takes in old PCs and then parts them out or rebuilds) - maybe in a larger town a bit away from you - they might actually be scrapping out that kind of case just for the metal content. Wouldn't hurt to ask if such a place exists...

I am already booting from the m.2 slot, what I want to do is add another m.2 slot and also be able to boot from that.

Yes. Already occupied.

Nearly every modern board does. I'd be very surprised if it did not allow you to do so.

there's no need for an unlocked CPU and Z-motherboard if you're not going to overclock. most people don't anyways and i highly suggest just downgrading to a locked cpu and motherboard to save a lot more money. running WoW at 4k, a RTX 3080 should be sufficient. but i advise you put the money to cool the PC components instead as it can get hot.

I would recommend this instead. Much better cpu cooler, 3080 over 3080Ti (saving some money there too), and just 1 2TB M.2 NVME SSD.
 
Case fans are for the front of the case (intake).
 
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/DyNcbK
CPU: Intel Core i5-12600K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor  ($355.75 @ Vuugo) 
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S chromax.black 82.51 CFM CPU Cooler  ($119.95 @ Amazon Canada) 
Motherboard: MSI PRO Z690-A WIFI DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard  ($309.99 @ Amazon Canada) 
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory  ($158.40 @ Vuugo) 
Storage: Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  ($254.50 @ shopRBC) 
Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 3080 12GB LHR 12 GB VENTUS 3X PLUS OC Video Card  ($1250.60 @ Newegg Canada) 
Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case  ($114.99 @ Amazon Canada) 
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2021) 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply  ($229.99 @ Amazon Canada) 
Case Fan: Corsair ML140 Pro 97 CFM 140 mm Fan  ($33.97 @ Amazon Canada) 
Case Fan: Corsair ML140 Pro 97 CFM 140 mm Fan  ($33.97 @ Amazon Canada) 
$2862.11

That's a decent size case, why not do a ATX mobo as opposed to the micro atx? Any specific reason for that?

The real question, is why would you??
That motherboard has a 3rd gen x4 slot on it for NVMe drives, use that for your boot drive as putting the adapter in will just bottleneck the system giving it an extra hurdle. For the rest of your NVMe storage on that expansion card they'll load up in Disk Management after the driver is pulled from Windows Update. There's no guarintee that they'll come up in the BIOS, especially being a budget A-series board.

As for cooling, unless the NVMe drive has a heatsink it isn't necessary given your case has proper airflow. If you're making a build that is fan-less and you expect radiant heat, then I'd consider a heatsink for the storage. 

Bear in mind MDF is shit at supporting weight  and will sag over time, possibly putting stress on your mobo. 

I wouldn't have suggested it, if it wasn't a possibility: yes, if you need glasses, you may get headaches more easily, your eyes may get tired and feel like you're straining to focus, your eyes may even begin to ache and so on. I am speaking from personal experience, myself.

You should visit an optician and check if you need to buy glasses instead of a display.

Only one I can think of is look at maximum weight ratings and compare them to the weight of the thing you want to hang.  You do not want the device to exceed the maximum weight rating of the stand.   You can get pretty close though without a lot of worry.  The weight rating is only what the stand will hold.  If you drop it or bang on it or hit it with an elbow you can increase the effective weight of the object.

hmm... i think it's easier if you just watch the video, and ask us anything that you don't understand