Blaze200038
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About Blaze200038
- Birthday July 10
Contact Methods
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Steam
|LAME| MEAT
Profile Information
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Gender
Male
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Location
Pennsylvania, US
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Interests
Gaming, Music, Carpentry, Metalwork
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Occupation
Administrative Support
System
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CPU
Ryzen 5 2600x
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Motherboard
ASUS ROG STRIX X370-F
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RAM
16 GB G.Skill Ripjaws V
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GPU
GTX 980 Ti
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Case
NZXT S340
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Storage
Evo 960
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PSU
Supernova 750 G3
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Display(s)
Potatoes
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Cooling
EVGA CLC 120
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Keyboard
Redragon K552
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Mouse
Logitech G402
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Sound
AKG K92
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Operating System
Windows 10
Blaze200038's Achievements
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Car flasher relay with solenoid - help needed
Blaze200038 replied to Blaze200038's topic in Hobby Electronics
I think you're right about the math being wrong. Based on measurements I don't think it's going to get damaged, but it still isn't cycling reliably. I did finally get it to actuate some of the time with the wiring below. (I'm not quite sure WHY this is working; I tried it with alligator clips thinking nothing would happen.) The solenoid is connected to both the load and supply side of the relay, with the resistors on the load side. Currently the solenoid does not consistently reset when the relay is in its off state; I think I just need to increase the voltage drop across the resistors a bit more to get it to behave consistently. -
Car flasher relay with solenoid - help needed
Blaze200038 replied to Blaze200038's topic in Hobby Electronics
No worries Cole, I appreciate that you are trying to help! I'm still not 100% sure I'm any closer to solving the issue, but it occurs to me that one thing I can do (at least when I have access to my test setup again) is to measure the voltage between the relay load terminal and ground in both the "on" and "off" states of the relay. If I get what you were saying then I should expect to see some voltage even in the "off" state, which may be enough given the 14.4v my truck is providing (vs the 12v from my PSU) to power the solenoid in both the "on" and "off" states. If that's the case then all I should need to do is to add a resistor in series with the solenoid to reduce the current enough in the "off" state. Edit: Trying to figure out the math for what resistors to use; I have a pack with an assortment of 1/4W resistors so I'm trying to figure it out with that limitation. With a max power of .25W for each resistor and needing to reduce the voltage 2.4V to get the solenoid to cycle I'm thinking I need six 3.9 Ohm resistors in parallel between the relay and the solenoid and to still pass the 600mA @ 12v that the solenoid needs. -
Car flasher relay with solenoid - help needed
Blaze200038 replied to Blaze200038's topic in Hobby Electronics
Wouldn't that make the solenoid just stay on, rather than cycling with the turn signals? I tried both having the solenoid ground through the bulbs AND (like it currently is) having the solenoid ground separately from the bulbs. Moreover, in the current configuration the solenoid activates but remains active, not cycling. -
Car flasher relay with solenoid - help needed
Blaze200038 replied to Blaze200038's topic in Hobby Electronics
At the risk of exposing why I'm having trouble, here's my best understanding of the circuit. The 'relay' only has two contacts, one for the source voltage and one for the load (usually just the turn signals). Also attached is a picture of the relay with the solenoid duct taped to it in case there's anything glaringly wrong with that setup (apart from the duct tape). -
I'm having a truck problem I can't puzzle out alone: I've been trying to add a solenoid to the circuit from the turn signal relay because it does not currently make any noise (aftermarket relay to fix hyperflash of LED bulbs). However, I can't get the solenoid to trigger periodically when the relay is installed in the truck. The LEDs work properly when the relay is installed, but the solenoid remains in the powered position rather than clicking on and off. By contrast, when I tested the setup in my workshop on 12v from a Dell PSU and a single LED bulb it all worked as I expected (solenoid and bulb operated periodically). I noticed that the voltage across the circuit when the truck is running is about 14.4v. I don't know enough to know if that's an issue. The relay is rated for .02-10A at 12v. The solenoid specs (from the product listing) indicate 12v, but also 300mA at 24v (so I assume 600mA at 12v). Any advice would be appreciated!
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The following has happened to me a few times in the past month: I'll be doing something on my PC (that I can remember: playing Stellaris, watching Youtube, typing in Discord, reading a PDF) when without warning my displays all lose video signal. After a few seconds the RGB in my case resets from the configuration I chose to the default. Pressing (& holding) the power button does nothing. Eventually I am forced to cycle the power on the PSU; when I reboot the only evidence that anything happened is Chrome offering to restore my tabs. I made all the following changes about a month ago, around the time this started: I installed a wireless network card (TP-Link Archer T6E AC1300). I installed a USB 3.0-PCI-E hub. (It has a SATA power connector which I never plugged in because I don't actually need to use it) I installed a Corsair Commander RGB hub. I upgraded my PSU from an EVGA 600 B1 to an EVGA Supernova 750 G3. Full Specs: OS: Windows 10 Build 17134 Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix X370-F (Bios version 4024) CPU: Ryzen 5 2600X RAM: 2 x 8GB G.Skill Ripjaws V Series F4-3200C16D-16GVK GPU: EVGA GTX 980 Ti Super Clocked ACX 2.0 PSU: EVGA Supernova 750 G3 Boot drive: Samsung 960 EVO 250 GB PCIe NVMe - M.2 SSD (MZ-V6E250BW) Other Storage: Kingston 120 GB SSDNow UV400 SATA SSD (SUV400S37) and 2 x SATA HDDs
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Wow, that is super useful to know. Thanks! I whole-heartedly agree, this is not an ideal solution. The main reason I am considering it is because I already own both PSU's and I don't want to spend any more money on what is essentially a closet-warming hobby build that I'm still not sure what I'm going to do with when it's fully operational.
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I recently came into possession of a Samsung Np300E5C-AOCUS. The previous owner broke the power jack, got a new one, and put it under their bed until I offered to take it off their hands. Initially, I was going to just scrap it for its hard drive, DIMM's and copper, when I became acquainted with the PGA988 socket lurking inside. Now, I've never been a fan of laptops (I hate batteries, I really do) but the idea of making this into a machine that I can bring with me on the go do so some hardcore web browsing is actually pretty appealing. So, how good is PGA988 compatibility across the board? The stock processor is a Pentium B950, and I'd like to replace it with something a bit beefier- say an i5 2540M or i7 2640M. Both have the same TDP, and both are Sandy Bridge (like the B950) so what are the odds that they'll be compatible? Without being able to power on the system (waiting for replacement power jack to arrive before I can do the repair) is there anything I can do to verify compatibility?
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So I have a general question that I'm curious about, and a particular problem I am trying to solve with that question. The question is, if I were to plug a card with a PCI-E 6-Pin connector in to my board and PSU, will it draw more power over the board connection, the PSU connection, or evenly between the two? The particular problem I am trying to solve is whether I can add a cheap power supply to an underpowered system, thus allowing me to use a more powerful graphics card. To be clear, this secondary PSU would not be supplying power directly to any of the motherboard connections- only the PCI-E 6-Pin, fans, and SATA power. Any information on the first question alone is greatly appreciated, though if anyone has advice for my bigger problem, that'd be rad. Full janky system details if you want to dive deep:
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For reference, here are my relevant current system specs: FX 6300 (Runs at stock, never OC'd) 2x8 GB 1333MHz DDR3 RAM Biostar A960D+ AM3+ mATX motherboard R9 380 4GB 970MHz core, 1425MHz memory (OC's to about 1050/1500) Kingston SATA III SSD (120GB) For further context, my primary applications are gaming @1080p (playing everything from AAA to Dwarf Fortress), light video editing and audio production. Most applications run without a hitch; a few would definitely benefit from higher CPU performance. Frame rates are probably my primary motivation in looking at upgrades though; I can get good (45-60) in most titles at medium-high settings, but I am not a settler. I won't really be satisfied till I can set Ghost Recon: Wildlands to ultra and drive around in a buttery-smooth Bolivian Lamborghini. TL;DR: with a budget of less than $300 USD, would I better off upgrading my CPU (and mobo/RAM) or my GPU (or something I haven't thought of)?
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I recently came into possession of a Samsung NP300E5C-A0CUS. I was super stoked when I decided to take it apart to discover it uses the PGA988 socket (I had previously only heard legends of laptops with real sockets in them), and so now rather than scrapping it I want to upgrade it to something a bit more capable, since I don't own another laptop. It has in it a Pentium B950, making it a slightly less competent machine than the Pentium e8500 build I just made for someone. I was hoping to upgrade it with a Sandy Bridge i7 (such as the 2640m), but I've heard that the compatibility of processors with laptop motherboards is less than guaranteed. Does anyone have any insight in to how I can check the compatibility before I buy?
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Seems pretty swaggy. Very similar form factor to my LG G3. Solid specs, the speakers in particular sound pretty nice. Would probably be an upgrade for me, but if I get it I'm giving it to my GF cause she has murdered her current phone and can't get an upgrade.
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Keyboard: SK1688 Mouse: Logitech SBF96 Headphones: Sennheiser HD201 ... My peripherals are sad. Sometimes I also use an F310 for some games, hack&slash and other third person games. Might still use my Sennheiser's, but the rest of this stuff would go a long way to improving my setup.
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LG PF1000U Ultra Short Throw Projector Giveaway
Blaze200038 replied to CPotter's topic in LTT Releases
I think the way they use a mirrored projection is pretty neat. Not actually sure it makes it any more useful, since other projectors could get some pretty nice angles anyway, but hey, still neat. Would totally use this at my New Year's party, cause sometimes TV's aren't big enough for our shenanigans. -
Woo, RNG. I am running an XFX R9 380 4GB Edition. Pretty sure either of these cards would be an upgrade for me, so I intend to put my card in a new PC I'm building for my GF (which is either going to have one or two E5450's depending on what working mobo/psu I can find, because wheeee cheap parts).
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