Axeonelite

The drive capacity was my main reason for picking the case. I run my Plex Server as well as backup several generations of family photos, and do hobby game development on the side. I knew it was not going to be silent, but it checked all the other boxes I needed for my build. But thank you for the info!

Power supplys and figure out usage is the one area I am lacking in my PC knowledge so any help would be appreciated. I currently have an EVGA GT Series 850W power supply. I don't believe I have an issue with the main parts of my system, but I am going to be installing 8 - 7200rpm 3TB Hard Drives this evening. The PSU has enough SATA to make that work, I am just not sure if I will be overloading any specific rail or power delivery of this power supply. I am not attached to this power supply in any way,. I just got it on a good sale a while back so I am more than willing to change it out if needed. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. SPECS CPU: i9-12900k (stock for now but will be undervolting) COOLER: Deepcool Assassin IV MOBO: Asus Z790-V PRIME WIFI RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32GB (2 X 16GB) DDR5-6000 PC5-48000 CL36 GPU: EVGA GeForce RTX 3070 XC3 Ultra PSU: EVGA 850 GT Series CASE: Antec P101 Silent FANS: Included with case 2x120mm in the front and 1x140mm in the rear. ACCESSORIES: 9211-8i HBA for running the drives DRIVES to be installed: 8 x 3TB Dell/Seagate Constellation ES.2 7.2K RPM 3.5"

Title is pretty explainatory but just for a bit more detail. I am currently using the P101S case with a Motherboard, CPU, and Cooler from a HP Z440 workstation with a RTX 3070, which runs fine but I am about to go for a platform upgrade. I am going to be getting a ASUS Z790-V Prime WiFi Mobo with a i9-12900k. With the current setup I am able to keep all 8 hard drive bays in the P101S case installed and I would like to keep it that way, but I would also like to get a AIO to cool the 12900k if possible to ensure if I upgrade to 13th gen down the line that I will have enough cooling headroom. I can not seem to find anywhere online that indicates if a 360mm AIO can be installed in this case without removing the hard drive bays. I have seen a few custom water cooling builds in this case, but they all remove all the drive bays which will not work for me since I need those drive bays for my family photo storage and a plex server. I am totally fine going with a tower cooler like a NH-D15 if needed since I am not overclocking or doing anything super CPU intensive, at least not for long periods. If anyone has any experience with this case and using an AIO that would be much appreciated.

Apologies. I typed too fast for my own good. Your DRAM refresh would be a CPU issue. Could be caused by bad power. Have you checked your power supply?

Hi! Welcome to the forum and the world of PC's! On that case their should be vent holes on the other side to provide fresh air through a channel. Just make sure to keep it off the wall a bit. I hope that helps! *Picture shows white version of case for easier viewing. Same case though I believe*

If it ends sup solving the issues, then you could acquire a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter for a fair price for use on the non-primary monitor. Hope that helps.

Apologies. I thought it was a technically questions of if you COULD rather than a question of if you SHOULD. Yes I would totally reuse what you already have and save that cash, since as Duke mentioned, the performance difference is so small.

Have you disconnected the monitor from the iGPU and just tried running off the dedicated graphics and see if it still persists? I personally can't see a need to have a monitor plugged into the motherboard graphical inputs when you have a GPU capable of handling 2 monitors. *EDIT* I have also experience graphics glitches leading to a GPU driver crash/reset when I had my Razer Blade 15 docked into 2 displays. Disabling Intel Graphics in Device Manager when docked solved my issues. I know it's not the same setup but might be worth a shot.

Besides the obvious performance reduction by choosing a slower ram type, as long as it is supported by both your motherboard and CPU then there is no reason it wouldn't work.

Have you checked the operation of the fans? Are they all connected correctly to the iCUE Commander CORE that came with the AIO? Also do you have the software installed to monitor them?

Is there a plastic film across the plate on the AIO that may not have been removed?

Could you provide some more details, like what software you are using? When you go to encode do you have Hardware encoding enabled in that program, and have you tried encoding with NVENC in order to utilize your Nvidia card?

I think your body is part of the answer. I doubt just common sense would say any parties involved would be cool with taking an idea that was a cross sponsorship with Intel and take it to AMD. Just kind of feels dirty.

The question of if you will be able to tell a difference of not is a personal one. For me I can tell a big difference between 60 and 144, but not anything great from 144 to 240. Maybe your best option would be to go to a store and look at different monitors in person to get a feel for them. I personally am using 2 ultrawides. An LG 29inch and a Sceptre 35 inch ultrawide. I love the 100hz on the ultrawide for daily use, it seems to make productivity applications look smoother. But the LG one has way better colors for media consumption.

Do you have another USB keyboard to test if it is recognizing any keyboard? Also I am assuming you have tried other USB ports, and also turning it off and back on again?

A very odd request I am sure, but this is for my wife. She is very much a Western inspired southern woman and her preference in color schemes follows. She is in need of a new mousepad for here work. The example of colors she is giving me is these as examples of color (net neccessarily pattern.) Yet she is absolutely appalled by the idea of a hard mouse pad. She loves the cloth ones, like the material on my Corsair MM300. If anyone has any suggestions for me that'd be great. Again she just wants a brown one, not a specific pattern.

I agree with @CommanderAlexbut I will say if you do end up repasting go big or go home with some liquid metal! My Razer Blade 15 went down 20 Degrees Celsius without any other updates.

https://youtu.be/a8yw0Oo17A8 Finally was able to get a video. Just for reference. From what I can tell seeing other people online this definitely isn't normal considering how fast the console is supposed to be. And it fixes upon restart like I said. We'll see what happens in the weeks to come with more updates.

Wow. What a time to be alive.

I couldn't find this issue from any of my googling but maybe someone else will have an idea. Unfortunately I did not record a video of it but I will try to next time it happens. I had left my PS5 on while it copied the Spider-Man Miles Morales data to the internal drive. I went outside to do a few chores and came in about an hour or so later and the console had put itself into rest mode. upon waking the console the menu was SUPER delayed and sluggish. Like the console really had to think about what it was doing. I had no internet connected to the console so it was not trying to do any updates, downloads, or installs at this point. \ Just trying to navigate from game icon to game icon from the time I pressed left or right (D-pad or L-Stick) it would take about a second or two until it actually moved. And then it would be stuck there for about 10-15 seconds before it could move to the next tile. You could mash the d pad all you wanted, and it would eventually register those inputs. But it would move one at a time with the same 10-15 second holdup between the two. This was happening in both the game and media tabs. Although if I pressed the PS button on the Dual-Sense controller. That menu was snappy and fully responsive. The same with the settings menu. I finally turned off the console by doing a full shutdown from inside the console itself and once it was fully powered down I restarted it and the console had worked fine since. Not really looking for a solution because it's working fine now but it was a very very curious thing.

Depends. Did it give any signs of malfunctioning before it died out? If it was a lightning storm or something else that can affect your components regardless of the quality of your components thats one thing. But if you've installed a new power supply and it works fine then you probably have nothing to worry about. If it had shorted any parts or ruined them due to a surge you would've already seen the affects. If you have done any benchmarking previously you could always re-benchmark it and compare results.

I enjoy my 240hz 1080p on my laptop but that was the only model available with the config I wanted. If you don't have to pay for it don't. Most things you run wont get close to that even esports titles. **EDIT** Also just to clarify that means I am agreeing with the other posts. Get a better resolution and a high refresh rate. 1440p 144hz

I can not speak on behalf of custom loops so if you have a reference in mind maybe you can draw a conclusion based on my experience. Running a Noctua NHD-15 on a 6700k with a CHEAP Insignia thermal paste, I was still able to achieve a mild overclock and get quiter performance under load while rendering 1080p Premiere Pro videos and Gaming (at the time a EVGA 1070) than compared to the AIO's I tried at the time, mainly the offerings from corsair during the late lifetime of the 6700k

I am a novice in the undervolting and underclocking space so I may not be of much help, but my question to you is why do you want to undervolt/underclock? With your statement of parts I assume you are on a desktop not a laptop. The general idea behind undervolting is to reduce temperatures. In a laptop this can be a big deal and I know it was for me in my Razer Blade mid-2019. Running at 95 degrees all the time is not ideal, but in a desktop this shouldn't be a big concern. If you have a 1080 and are use to a certain degree of performance, undervolting (while not always) can see noticeable differences. If you are having problems with temperatures I would suggest starting with analyzing you cooling situation.

As per the PC part picker suggestions did you ensure that you have the correct power going to your CPU? I personally can not think of a situation like your except for when I did not have enough power in my parts.