ruffel

That's what I was guessing as well. I checked and Windows definitely think I still have B350, so I will work on uninstalling them.

I see people saying that I can just install the new drivers with the new motherboard CD to overwrite the old ones, what do you think about this?

I tried startup repair in the debug menu, but that didn't work. Maybe it would work better once I get a Windows USB.

I haven't, no. I will see if that is possible

Just upgraded my CPU + MB from Ryzen 5 1600 to 5600X, and B350 to X570. I didn't reinstall Windows, and at first boot it did the configure device thing. Then it is stuck on the circle loading screen thing. I can boot into safe mode though, so I am wondering what I can do to make it work without reinstalling Windows. Thanks. (I know it's not cool to swap hardware and not reinstall the OS, but I just wanted to get it working first) CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X MB: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite BIOS: F32 Ram: 4x8GB HyperX 2666MHz PSU: Corsair RM650x

I ran them in both configs like, 3 times in a row each, back to back. I did have some background programs running, but it's the same for both cases. But I probably should run them again now, and maybe on more programs too. I'll come back with some new results.

Yes, except it got faster when I lowered it from stock (7000MHz to 6498MHz). (sorry i didn't made it clear)

So I was running Time Spy on my RTX2070 Super (Inno3D Gaming OC x3), and I got around 9.7k on the graphics score. Then, I lowered the memory clock (from stock) by 502 in MSI afterburner, and the score went up to 9.9k. I ran it a few more times and it;s the same. I read that it could be the memory was having error because the clock is too fast, so is that the case here? If so, is this something I can get my card replaced for? And should I keep the memory clock at stock, or drop it to -502 for now? I think the card was manufactured at the 31st week of 2019, if that means anything. It also uses Micron memory, but I thought that was fine now. Oh, and while we're here, the card often boost itself to around 1965 MHz, and sometimes 2010 MHz out of the box. It says boost clock is 1815 MHz on the box, and I'm pretty sure I didn't overclock it to that. So do these cards just boost as high as they can, or did I actually do something? CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 Stock MB: Gigabyte ab350-gaming 3 RAM: Kingston 2400MHz 8GB x 2 GPU: Inno3D Gaming OC x3 RTX2070 Super

Yea that's a common thing with USB 3 headers. If the housing is still stuck on the cable, just plug the whole thing back in. Otherwise it doesn't really matter, maybe try putting the housing back and ignore it if you couldn't.

Not sure what you mean by 'can the specs handle it', but no, I don't think any GPU out there can overclock by 1000mhz. Overclocking can only damage your GPU if the voltage is set to auto, which means the GPU would pump as much voltage to work super fast, and the voltage would fired the card. But cards today would likely have a max voltage allowed so it can't get damaged. If you're interested to know why there are glitches, I can sorta explain. It's not related to hardware damage. The clock speed means how fast your GPU can work. 1 GHz means you can check the GPU 101000 times every second for data, i.e. it takes 1ns to compute some data. If you set the clock to 2 GHz, you would be checking for data every 0.5ns, meaning the data you're getting is not ready, which is why it glitches. When you rebooted, the clocks went back to default and it works normally again. (Again, I don't know if that's exactly how it works, but I've learnt some stuff that led me to this conclusion.

1. Likely not, overclocking GPU is easy and safe(r) since if it doesn't work, the game just crash and you try again. If you can turn it back on and use it, it's fine since any damage possible from 1000mhz overclock would've killed the whole thing. 2. It's normal. OC scanning is basically checking how far your card can go, so when the card reach its limit, it glitches. Like I said in 1, that's how GPU overclock goes. 3. Not entirely sure about this, but check your graphics settings in-game, the CPU and RAM in the benchmarks you see. Background processes on your computer may affect your performance, but I doubt it'll be this much. Check afterburner to see GPU and CPU utilization. If your GPU utilization is low (not sure what is low, maybe see if the benchmarks shows it), then your CPU is the limit. I'm not the most knowledgeable person on these subjects, but there's no need to worry. If these things breaks so easily, they probably wouldn't have be sold in the first place.

Can't get that kind of price where I live Even the Pulse is like $470 Figure it'd be better to spring for the 2070 super at that price.

Do they have a bad rep or something? I am using GTX970 Twin X2 now and it's alright

For around the same price (~US$500) I can either get the Inno3D RTX2070 Super Gaming OC X3 or RTX2080 Twin X2. Looking online myself, it seems that the 2080 is kinda crap (Non-A, runs kinda hot). Couldn't find much about the 2070 super, but it seems fine. For around US$600, I can get a RTX2080 iChill X3 or Gigabyte RTX2070 super Gaming OC White for ~$40 less. With these prices in mind, which would be the best choice? I have a 4k 60hz monitor (but 1440p will do fine) and my CPU is a R5 1600 for now. Having playable ray tracing would be cool too.

Check to see if the fans are actually spinning. I had one GPU fan died and I thought it was bad old thermal paste.

I unplugged all except the boot drive, ran the startup repair and it's fine now. I'll still do this to fix any bad partitions. Thanks

It was fine yesterday, then I turn it on and was greeted with this Motherboard: MSI B350M Gaming CPU: R5 1400 (stock) Windows 10

Ok thanks

Yes, I want to see if I can reuse the block when I change gpu

Are custom waterblocks for the GTX970 compatible the newer card? My card had a reference pcb design. Is waterblock being compatible with other generation of card commom?

Are custom waterblocks for the GTX970 compatible the newer card? My card had a reference pcb design. Is waterblock being compatible with other generation of card commom?

I have a pair of Sennheiser Momentum and it's the best thing I've used. I came from Beats solo3, and I'd say the bass on the momentum is tighter and doesn't cloud over everything like the beats. I've tried the Bose QC35 and the Sony MDR-1000x briefly, and I'd say the momentum is a bit more clear (I am a sucker for the sennheiser sound signature tho). It's comfortable, but the tip of your ear may hurt after long session since it may touch the speaker sometimes. Noise cancelling works best on lower frequencies/volume sounds, like background noise, mouse click, distance(ish) people. With music on, however, you can't hear people call you. I've read somewhere that noise cancelling on the Bose are great too. As good as this may be, your friend may not notice/think it's worth the price tag. Best solution would be for him to try it out and decide if it's worth it.

I have this 'USB Device Over Current Status Detected' warning and the computer will not turn on. I have unplugged the front usb on the motherboard, but the error persists. How do I fix this? p.s I've been looking online and I saw something about jumpers. I see the two usb jumpers on the board, and both are at the 'disable' state accordind to the motherboard. Motherboard: MSI FM2-A55M-E33

And will that help with airflow near the graphics card ?

Really? It's only 2 years old! But then again it spent most of it's life in a smaller case with just 1 exhaust fan. Alright, no harm in doing that, I suppose. Let's hope I don't break the damn thing.