Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

PianoPlayer88Key

Member
  • Content Count

    1,251
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards


This user doesn't have any awards

3 Followers

About PianoPlayer88Key

  • Title
    Veteran
  • Birthday 1981-04-29

Contact Methods

  • Discord
    2 accounts, ran into server limit.
  • Steam
    http://steamcommunity.com/id/tfcwings/
  • Twitch.tv
    pianoplayer88key (not streaming yet)
  • Twitter
    pianoplayr88key
  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Diego county, CA, USA
  • Interests
    Computer hardware, software (games, media production & editing, some others, not so much into office type stuff though), playing piano, listening to a variety of music, photography & videography, other things
  • Occupation
    Currently volunteering at a computer refurbishing warehouse. (Idk if it's similar to FreeGeek.)

System

  • CPU
    Desktop: Intel Core i7-4790K | Laptop: Intel Core i7-6700K
  • Motherboard
    Desktop: ASRock Z97 Extreme6 | Laptop: Clevo P750DM-G
  • RAM
    Desktop: G.Skill Ares Red 32GB (2x 8x2GB) DDR3-1600 CL9 | Laptop: G.Skill Ripjaws 40GB (1x 8GB + 2x16GB) DDR4-2133 CL15 SO-DIMM
  • GPU
    Desktop: EVGA (Nvidia) GeForce GTX 1060 SC 3GB | Laptop: Nvidia GeForce GTX 970M 6GB
  • Case
    Desktop: Rosewill Thor V2 Black | Laptop: Clevo P750DM-G
  • Storage
    Desktop (not all are in system): 80GB WD IDE (WD800BB - dying), 250GB WD IDE (WD2500JB), 2x 750GB WD Black (WD7500AAKS & WD7501AALS), 1TB WD Green (WD10EADS), 2x 1.5TB WD Green (WD15EADS), 2x 2TB WD Green (WD20EADS & WD20EZRX), 3x 4TB HGST NAS (0S03664), 3x 5TB HGST NAS (0S03835), 3x 8TB HGST NAS (0S04012), 256GB Crucial M550 2.5" SSD | Laptop: 250GB Crucial MX200 M.2 60mm, 1.05TB Crucial MX300 2.5", (removed) 2TB Samsung/Seagate Spinpoint M9T 2.5"
  • PSU
    Desktop: Corsair AX760 | Laptop: battery & 230W AC adapter
  • Display(s)
    Desktop: Dell U2414H | Laptop: built-in 1080p IPS G-Sync
  • Cooling
    Desktop: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO | Laptop: copper plates + heatpipes + fans
  • Keyboard
    Desktop: Logitech K200 | Laptop: built in
  • Mouse
    Desktop: Logitech G602 | Laptop: Logitech M510
  • Sound
    onboard on both. Laptop mentions Sound Blaster X-Fi on sticker, but there's a RealTek HD Audio Manager icon in my system tray I've noticed sound is cleaner in my laptop than desktop.
  • Operating System
    Both: Windows 10 Pro. Build 1703 as of August 2017.
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

4,698 profile views
  1. I'm not sure I'd call Haswell "ancient" quite so fast, just yet. There are a few criteria for me to call a CPU architecture "ancient". One of them: The current lowest-power mobile CPU, at base clock (no turbo) would have to be faster, single-threaded, than the old generation's flagship / top-end CPU across the entire architecture (not just the mainstream socket), multi-threaded, multi-socket. I think the lowest-end Ice Lake -Y CPU, single-threaded, is still slower than the fastest Haswell EX Xeon E7-8xxx v3, multi-threaded, with the maximum # of CPUs possible in a server. I don't think that same Ice Lake scenario would have surpassed Pentium 4 yet (especially if you consider the hyper threaded dual core extreme edition). I'm not sure about Pentium III Xeon, but I would guess it may have surpassed multi-CPU Pentium II Xeon, and probably definitely dual Pentium Pro (if that was a thing then). I wonder how long until they drop their value all the way, though? For example, how long until, if I try to give (for free) my i7-4790K (currently in my desktop) to someone who's absolutely destitute and needs just something for basic office work or school or whatever ... they throw the CPU (by itself - no motherboard or cooler) back in my face hard enough to compound-fracture my jaw, cheekbone, nose AND skull simultaneously with a SINGLE impact, and scream (loud enough so I instantly become totally permanently deaf, and that without any microphone / PA system) at me something like "take this fucking shit away, you 6-letter word that rhymes with the name of Winnie the Pooh's feline friend! It's too worthless even for its scrap materials!" or worse? I've still seen aforementioned Pentium 4s, and maybe even P3s and older still selling for > $0.00 on eBay. Just now I was looking, and even saw some 8086's, 8080s, 8008s still listed under sold items, and some 4004s going for triple digit prices. I don't plan on keeping my 4790K quite THAT long. Am currently planning on an upgrade about when DDR5 comes out, but am starting to be a bit concerned that the performance uplift per dollar I wan't won't be there yet*1, and I might have to wait for DDR6 or even DDR7 to upgrade*7. *1 - I would like the greatest of the following performance uplift, at minimum: equivalent to my dad's going from 286-10 in January 1989 to 486DX4-120 in October 1995 (I bought my 4790K in January 2015, same interval would be October 2021) new CPU is as fast at encoding 4K HEVC video as old CPU is at encoding 320kbps mp3, at max settings. In a test I ran a while ago, my 4790K took about 2 minutes to encode about 2 hours of 320kbps mp3 using a multi-threaded frontend of LAME, and about 4 days to encode about 4 minutes of HEVC (4K, q=0, keyint=1, placebo) in Handbrake. new CPU has the equivalent jump as if I had jumped the same number of generations in the 1980s / 1990s or so. For example: Haswell Refresh -> Broadwell -> Skylake -> Kaby Lake -> Zen / Coffee Lake -> Zen+ / Coffee Lake Refresh -> Zen2 -> Zen 3 / Comet Lake -> Zen 4 / Rocket Lake would be 8 generations if I counted right. The equivalent from the past might be something like 8086 -> 286 -> 386 -> 486 -> Pentium -> Pentium II -> Pentium III -> Pentium 4 -> Core 2. *2 - I want a long upgrade path without having to change motherboards. (I'd rather change my PSU several times, assuming I have a golden-sample SeaSonic Prime by then, before I swap my mobo, based on the labor time involved.) I would be uncomfortable buying halfway through a DDR generation, ESPECIALLY if I bought Intel. (I'm leaning 99.99999999999% toward AMD.) I personally wouldn't want to jump into the AM4 socket with Zen 2 - I would have gone with Zen 1 in 2017 if I still had my DDR2 based system from 2008.
  2. The HDD trays in my previous case (Rosewill Thor V2) turned out to be incompatible with my 8+TB hard drives. The trays weren't long enough to even have a place for the wide-spaced screw holes. I ended up getting a different case - Fractal Design Define R5. (The R6 wasn't yet announced at the time.) Another reason I went for the Define R5 was because of the fact that my PSU's SATA chains are in groups of 4, and the R5 has 8 internal 3.5" bays, so I could actually make use of them.* (My Thor V2 had 6 3.5" bays and 6 5.25" bays at right angles to each other, so I couldn't use the same chain for 2x 3.5x and 2x 5.25x bays.) *Or, so I thought. I can use 2 x4 SATA power chains for the 3.5" drives, but with the remaining one, it won't simultaneously reach the two 5.25" bays in the top front of the case and the two 2.5" SSD trays behind the motherboard. For now I just have my SSD and Blu-ray writer mounted - well, you can see them in the picture. And apparently I have the wrong case, PSU and motherboard, because I've considered repurposing the Thor V2 for a storage / backup server (don't think calling it a NAS would be appropriate if I could, for example, make it more resistant to hacking by using hardware & software that has no idea what IP and MAC addresses are), but I think the likelihood that I'd be using drives no smaller than 8 TB would pose a problem with those trays. Also the case is way too big for the number of HDDs it would hold - I'd prefer it to be at least as densely packed (when fully loaded) as if the pic of the Define R5 (in the spoiler) also had HDDs to the left of AND under the CPU cooler (no video card would be used), and I used a cooler no taller than about 15 mm or the height of the DIMM slot tabs, whichever is shorter, including the fan.
  3. My parents' first system (bought a few months before I turned 8), and the first system I used at home, was: My own first PC I built (I had a TI-92 Plus graphing calculator in high school before this, and still have it, but I don't think it counts) was: As for my next planned upgrade ... I'll probably later edit the post with more details (or reply to the thread again if others have posted after me), when I can type on my actual PC keyboard rather than on my phone, but in brief, it would likely be when AM5/TR5 (99.999999999999999999999999999999999999% NOT going Intel this time), PCI Express 5.0, USB 4 and DDR5 come out, or around Black Friday 2021 or so. I'll want a huge performance jump (in workstation / editing tasks especially - minimum being like my dad's 286-10 to 486DX4-120 bump), lots of expandability (I have like a few dozen 3.5" HDDs and do NOT want rackmount for now), long-term future compatibility so I can henceforth upgrade my system ONE PART AT A TIME - for example not having to swap my motherboard so often just to upgrade CPU or RAM (Basically: How_Long_To_Keep_Motherboard > Labor_Time_To_Swap_Fully_Loaded_Motherboard × (How_Long_Until_Babied_Golden_Sample_Seasonic_Prime_PSU_Dies_Of_Old_Age ÷ Labor_Time_To_Swap_Fully_Modular_Cable_Compatible_PSU), etc. For example on the motherboard time-to-keep: If the PSU lasts 2 years and takes 1 minute to swap, and the motherboard takes 5 minutes to swap, then the motherboard should last 10 years. (BTW I plugged in much different numbers than normal - for example a PSU dying during warranty would be considered "infant mortality".) Plugging the numbers into the formula: 10 Yrs = 5 Min * (2 Yrs / 1 Min) if I did it right. Substitute for the actual real-life numbers. Same or similar formula would apply for case replacement.
  4. Well I checked CrystalDiskMark, and it shows 35107 GB total host writes, 2911 power on hours, etc, on that drive. Also I typically only hibernate if I'm going to be transporting the laptop, or if the power goes out and I don't want to run the battery down, or I'll have it turned off for an extended time (like more than a couple days). Otherwise it stays running all the time 24/7, doesn't even go to sleep. Also I came across a photo album from about a year and a half ago showing benchmarks of those SSDs in my laptop, vs in my desktop (edit: forgot to add link) - minus the 1TB 970 Evo which I didn't have yet. Somewhere I may also have benchmarks, etc, of some 10TB 7200rpm SATA HDDs, and an 8.4GB PATA HDD, plus a few others in between, but they're kind of disorganized. I remember seeing one video @LinusTech did a while ago - I think one where he did that 10 SD cards = SSD video, or maybe it was a cheap SSD from Ali Express, I forget ... and IIRC, my HARD DRIVES were faster than that "SSD", possibly even in random transfers! (I think the SSD was *THAT* bad!) Well it does take a little while to load from hibernation, but it will either eventually come up (show the Windows logo, then the Windows lock screen image so I can sign in), or glitch out (show the windows logo, then show the black screen). Sometimes it takes a little while to POST. (My laptop on left, dad's old Core 2 Duo laptop on right, monitor connected to my desktop on bottom.) Also I found an older (Dec 2018) short (~2 seconds) video clip of what the screen looks like when it can't properly resume from hibernation. https://photos.app.goo.gl/XnPyNfSctibdz9eu7 I haven't gotten a video of the entire boot process though, from power on to getting to desktop (or failing to resume from hibernation). I have seen things like this though...
  5. I wonder if this could be why my 3 SATA SSDs in my laptop could be only doing about 100-130 or so MB/s in sequential CrystalDiskMark, or large file transfers? The laptop (bought Dec 2015, some parts upgraded later but boot SSD is within a couple months of that age) is a Clevo P750DM-G with an i7-6700K, 64GB DDR4-2133 & GTX 970M 6GB, and the SSDs are a 250GB M.2 Crucial MX200 (boot) and 2x 1050GB 2.5" Crucial MX300s. The MX300s each have < 60-90 GB free (both show red bars in Windows Explorer "This PC"), and the MX300 has 37GB free. (Was about 24GB before I moved Rocket League and a few other GB of data to one of the MX300s.) Also the 250GB MX200 shows about 51% life or so in CrystalDiskInfo. Interestingly, they give me full transfer rates (~500+ MB/s) if I put them in my desktop (built Jan 2015: ASRock Z97 Extreme6, i7-4790K, 32GB DDR3-1600, GTX 1060 3GB). Also could the low space on (the 250GB MX200 - that's drive C, damn emotes breaking the standard shorthand) combined with often using upwards of 45-60 GB RAM, be a factor in being unable to properly resume from hibernation? (It will show a black screen after the Windows logo, and if you look carefully and the room is fairly dark, you can see what I'd guess is the backlight or something gray flashing very briefly once per second. I tried taking a video of it once, but the camera's frame rate was too low. The laptop also has a 1TB Samsung 970 Evo, but I haven't switched over to the Windows 10 Pro install on it yet, mainly due to the seemingly insurmountable ordeal of reinstalling and reconfiguring all my programs, apps, etc.
  6. The one above reminded me of a couple others. 1 - Best passively cooled gaming PC in a 172 x 172 mm x 0.5 U case, gpu AND CPU cooler contained within the case. Can use case itself as part of heatsink, but Linus's children must be able to comfortably hold it with their bare hands while running Furmark and Prime95 27+ Small FFT. 2 - passively cooled PC, but this time without the size restriction - in a really cold area like Vostok Station, Antarctica, or where temperatures may not exceed about -60°C or so, during their winter. 3 - same as 2, but somewhere hot like the southwest USA or north Africa / Middle East, or where temperatures might exceed 50°C daytime and may not drop below 38°C nighttime, in summer.
  7. How about ... Start with a pelotas-al-pared build, after deciding what the build's main purpose will be. For example, a gaming build that uses at least a Quadro RTX 8000 (or we could settle for an RTX 2080 Ti or Titan RTX as long as it's the absolute highest possible resolution, fps & settings). Then, build several progressively cheaper systems for the same use case, with the price including all of OS & software & games (no "shady" / cheap resellers allowed), peripherals, furniture, etc, along with the system itself. The progression: each "next step's" ENTIRE setup has to be cheaper than the previous tier's "most important" part by itself. For example, if system 2 for a gaming PC uses an RTX 2080 Ti, the ENTIRE system 3 combined has to be cheaper than the best deal ever possible (to date) on the 2080 Ti. As you get to the later steps, I'd imagine you mostly going for used parts, Linux, and free games. Also at least one step has to be BELOW Scrapyard Wars season 1 level, and no building a tin can around an R9 290 this time. (Also if you use an APU in a build, calculate the GPU price for determining the next build's budget based on an identical-performing dGPU.) Speaking of SYW, I'd like to see someone build an APU system, with the parts reveal being like season 1 - instead of "whaa-how did you get a 290?" it'd be more like "hey where's your video card?" I've got other ideas, but other than a brief summary of one, I'll save them for a possible future post. That one: build a "PCMR cringe" gaming (?) PC. Case has to have NO cable management, sealed mobo tray, break-out PCI covers; PSU has to have the 115/230V switch, have <40% of total capacity on 12V, and not meet c6/c7; GPU must be single-slot passively cooled & retailed <$40 when new, or released 1991 or earlier; CPU cooler no bigger than Silverstone NT07-115x and can't use heat pipes nor copper; boot & games drive(s) no better than 5400rpm PATA HDD; peripherals no better than cheapies that usually come with office-oriented prebuilts, etc.
  8. So you mean something like this? BTW we do have to be careful what circuit we plug it into or how we run it - we have tripped the 100-amp MAIN property breaker (not just for the house, but EVERYTHING) with this compressor - usually before the motor has had a chance to fully spin up. Also it wasn't plugged in when I took that picture. Oh and I hope it displays properly on desktop - I set the width to 768 pixels with a space between each, they should be side by side on a 1080p screen I think. (Maybe I should have set it for full width on the Dell UP3218K instead, though.) It doesn't look right on my phone due to limited resolution, or the site insisting on using a "mobile" interface even though my Pixel 3a is the same or higher resolution than my Clevo P750DM-G (1080p) or Dell U2414H.
  9. What case do you have? Different cases have different ways of mounting hard drives, and if we know the brand and model of case, someone can find out how it mounts hard drives, and whether it comes with everything needed or extra parts could be obtained.
  10. The idea that FreeNAS requires X gobs of RAM, and budget issues, among other things, is keeping me from building a NAS at all, and backing up my 90-100TB of storage devices. I'd maybe consider UnRAID, OpenMediaVault, RockStor, etc, but idk if they support the integrity checksumming, etc that FreeNAS supports. Also FreeNAS's inability to expand 1 drive at a time with arbitrary sizes, or it lacking UnRAID's ability to preserve the rest of the dataset when you have >parity drives fail (afaik you only lose the actual extra drives that failed, not the entire pool) is another factor. I think @Windows7ge mentioned something about running FreeNAS on as little as 1GB or even 128MB(?) RAM. With prices of anything DDR2 or newer, I doubt I could afford that, considering the other costs involved. And if I was to use the 5GB RAM per 1TB storage I've heard prescribed for deduplication ... well... I haven't found any ATX or baby AT or smaller boards that take, for example, 30-pin SIMMs or DIP chips and support half a TB of RAM. (That would be, if the trend of older generations being cheaper continued as you went back. For example, Sandy Bridge <$ than Haswell, Nehalem <$ than SB, LGA771 <$ than LGA1366 ... if the trend continued with similar ratios, I might be able to almost afford a mortgage on the first month's interest payment for a 8086 or 286 based setup. Then there's the issue of cost of backup media vs cost of mainline storage. All I'll say right now is, look at the pic in the spoiler to see the ratio I'm looking for. (Basically shows prices of tape vs HDD in January 1994; compare the HDDs to what capacity you can get today for the same price.) Not matching it is a deal breaker. For now, backup would be its ONLY purpose, and it would be powered off when it's not being updated, or restored from. (Electricity isn't cheap here - pic in spoiler was from I think a year and a half ago, and I'd presume its gone up from those rates since then; also we frequently go over baseline and use it during peak.)
  11. Another thing to consider would be how long it would take to upload, and your ISP's bandwidth caps. For example, I get about 10 Mbps upload or so, and my ISP imposes a 1TB per month cap. I have probably around 25 to 30 TB (not GB) of data, if not more, so doing online backup would be impractical for me. And if I wanted to actually completely image all my storage (when I hear the word / phrase "back up", I think of a bit-by-bit / sector-by-sector clone of everything, as if you did something like "sudo dd if=/ of=(backup_destination)"), that would be a bit north of 90 TB, probably not quite (but coming close to) flirting with 100 TB.
  12. My grandparents have passed on now for several years, but I do sometimes get called on to help my parents with things on their computer. They're able to do some things though, my dad (1946, early Boomer) somewhat more than my mom (1944, late Silent Generation). My parents have been using computers for at least a little while - I'd bet possibly before some LTT forum members' parents had even met each other. (I wonder who else still has the invoice for their family's first computer, especially from when Intel was still calling them #86, or older?)
  13. There are also the Toshiba N300 NAS drives. I haven't used them personally (I currently have several assorted HGST Deskstar NAS), but havent heard any really bad things about them, and am maybe considering them when I eventually need more drives. (I'd also consider WD Red, and while I too am wary of Seagate due to past history, I wonder if the IronWolf drives might be more reliable...)
  14. I wish I could only upgrade one part, but next time I upgrade my RAM, CPU, etc, and add SAS cards for more storage, I'll need a new motherboard. (Currently have 32GB RAM and an i7-4790K in an ASRock Z97 Extreme6, and for all the storage, etc I'd like to put in, it doesn't have enough PCIe lanes and I really don't want to go HEDT if I don't have to.)
  15. This is only the 2nd one I've seen so far, have I missed others that have been closed / merged / deleted?
×