RadiatingLight

Like others said: neither are good. 2000 series means it's using the old Zen+ architecture, which wasn't that great for gaming even when it came out. Plus, Threadrippers have lower clockspeeds, the motherboards are more expensive, and there's no benefit to that many cores for gaming. If you're buying a new build, today's best Gaming CPUs are the Ryzen 5800X3D and anything 12600K or better in Intel's 12th gen lineup.

I would clear the CMOS (either there's a jumper/button, or just remove the silver coin-style battery from the motherboard for 5 mins). This will reset all Motherboard settings to default. Are there any signs of life at all (CPU fan spins, LEDs light up, etc?) Also, you say you have 4800Mhz DDR5 -- In that case, why enable XMP at all? 4800Mhz is the lowest speed DDR5 so there's no benefit I think?

I think the power button is at 5V, but I don't think it's a good idea to power anything off of the 5V power supplied by the front IO headers. They're not designed to deliver any significant current. Instead, I'd use a SATA/MOLEX connector to power whatever microcontroller you're using, and then maybe a relay to short the power button wires.

I've felt a mild electric buzz on some laptops before (while they were charging) but I've never experienced it on a Desktop. Make sure the PC is grounded (using a proper 3-prong wall plug), and you should be fine. Also, consider that maybe it's you, not the PC. Is it possible that your PC is near a carpeted area and that you're charging up static electricity -- meaning *you* might be shocking the PC, not the other way around. NOTE: If this zap is really strong (like stronger than anything you'd get from static electricity), then disregard all this advice and go find an electrician to figure out what's wrong.

Agreed, but for Linus the equation is different because he gets to make more content (e.g. angry video at a company that discontinued support for their cloud-enabled product, or just a re-configuration of his smart home) every time something breaks. The inevitable breaking is also (maybe?) less in Linus' setup, because he uses Homeassistant, so it doesn't rely on cloud support.

If you have all the components lying around, why not try it. GTA V will probably have a pretty rough time running on that GPU, but you can always try it with a lower resolution just to see if it's playable by your standards. If not, you can probably just stick a 1050Ti in there and call it a day. FYI, GPU prices are rapidly dropping right now, so you'll probably save like $50 on your GPU (which is like 30%, since 1050Tis are selling for like $150 right now) if you wait another month. If you want to go super-ghetto, you could buy a used $100 RX 580 8G (almost certainly used for mining, but would still probably be fine) and modify your case to make the larger GPU fit.

This does seem very odd, especially since the 560 and 570 are the same generation and same 'new-ness'. However, there's not really much else you could change.

Seems like a good build. Personally, I would get an air cooler that's half the price and will probably perform almost as good (unless you plan on intense overclocking). I'd also spend the extra few bucks to get 3600Mhz or 4000Mhz RAM Finally, if you want to save a buck, you could consider grey-market OEM Windows keys that would cost like $20, but that's up to you. (actually, all of these are up to you, since the original build seems great and these are just tiny things that I would've done differently)

Seems like a stupid question, but is your timezone and date/time correct on the device you're logging in from? Modern secure connections require both sides to have accurate clocks.

Specifically, go here: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/PRO-Z690-A-WIFI-DDR4/support#driver and download the Chipset driver and LAN drivers. Those are most likely going to fix your problem.

Go to your motherboard's website and there should be downloads for networking drivers. Download and install them (you may need to transfer them over on a USB flash drive or something like that), and it should start working.

Another potential option (possibly safer, but you don't get the latest driver) would be use DDU and then download the drivers from your laptop manufacturer's website. They'll be older versions, but if there's any specific configs that work better, the better-working ones will probably be on Lenovo's website.

I would use Display Driver Uninstaller (DDU, download here: https://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html#:~:text=Translation %3A Swedish.xml-,Download Locations,-Download Mirror EU) to fully uninstall all graphics drivers, then re-download Nvidia's 3050Ti graphics drivers from their website. DDU also has an option to stop Windows from automatically updating drivers. I would do that, at least until you're able to re-install the 3050Ti drivers. (then, you can enable auto-driver-update, and it shouldn't override anything) I Wouldn't install any Radeon drivers at all except for the ones that Windows Update automatically gives you (assuming you're running Windows), because you're not going to be gaming on the IGP anyways, so latest driver versions don't really matter, and in my experience it's much less likely to lead to a weird driver conflict.

Just go for a 6800U with no dGPU -- It'll be good enough for light gaming. I'd wait a few months for cheaper 6800U laptops to release (Win Max 2 won't release for a hot sec anyways) and get one of those.

This is also going to be such a bigger hassle than you imagine. Are you really going to show up to a group project at the CS building with your external 60% keyboard? Is an external keyboard even going to fit on those tiny armchair-desk-things that many colleges have in lecture halls? Even if you plan on doing most of your work in your room, having the keyboard between you and the laptop will force the laptop to be further away from you, making the already-tiny screen look even smaller.

I've never used such a small device, but I would say no. It's tempting to want a 'jack-of-all-trades' device like the Win Max 2, but from experience you'll hate yourself for picking a 'master of none' laptop. It'll be a pain to take notes on for class, and the 10-inch screen really is way too small for coding. If I were you, I'd get a normal laptop (13 to 15 inch) with a Ryzen 5800U/6800U/12xxP processor and then buy yourself an Xbox controller or something. It'll end up cheaper and in my (very subjective) opinion, will also be more comfortable/better for long gaming sessions.

Stupid question, but have you tried waiting a few minutes after the vga/boot lights turn on to see if they'll go away? Sometimes it takes a motherboard a minute or so to POST, especially on the first time it boots. Also, make sure you connected both 8-pin CPU connectors, and make sure that the GPU is connected to a monitor (set to the correct input) so that you can see if it posts.

Try with 1 stick of RAM? Also, is it both of these errors intermittently, or just one of them?

Short answer: No, it's not really worth it. Those technologies are so new that they cost like 5x more than the $250 monitors you're looking at. They absolutely *will* have better color, vibrancy, HDR, etc. but for gaming it's simply not worth the price unless you're going for an ultimate gaming setup and you have a $1000 budget for your monitor. Keep in mind that if you buy a $300 monitor right now, you'll probably be able to upgrade to a QD-OLED level panel (or better) a few years down the line for a fraction of the price that one would cost today.

Yeah, I mention some of the RAM and CPU power delivery differences. I was more thinking about the difference between a low-end B550 board (~$100) and a higher-end B550/X570 board (~$200+), where both would be able to support a 5900X at stock speeds without much issue (maybe 100-200Mhz difference in boost, or failing to support >3600Mhz memory, like I said in my post). It is true that with extreme differences like an OEM-level H610 board and a 12600KS there would be much worse issues with performance.

The latest version might help somewhat, but I wouldn't upgrade until you know that your computer is stable, at least in BIOS. (because if it turns off while updating, it could brick your motherboard). If there's an option for fastboot (or memory fastboot, or ultrafast boot, etc.) turn it off in the BIOS and see if that does anything.

Have you tried clearing the CMOS? Beyond that, maybe you could try to see if it's a memory channel issue. Try putting two sticks in the same memory channel (the opposite of the best practice, putting 2 sticks right next to eachother and then 2 empty slots) and seeing if that works.

Are you running the latest BIOS version? Also, makes sure all your power connectors are seated correctly (if you have a modular PSU, check the PSU side as well). Make sure your PC is firmly plugged into the wall.

Motherboard choice generally won't affect performance in any way. It's just the connector between your other high-performance parts, and unless the connector is broken in some way, the performance will all be the same. The real reason you would spend more money on a motherboard is to get features that don't exist on lower-end motherboards (more USB ports, USB-C header, WiFi onboard, more M.2 slots, RGB, etc.), or for serious overclocking. There *is* potentially some performance to be gained by not choosing a bargain-basement motherboard, since higher-end motherboards will generally have better power-delivery (allowing the CPU to boost very slightly higher sometimes), and the trace layout might be better optimized, allowing for faster memory speeds (Anything greater than 3600Mhz I'd probably recommend a non-budget board). However, these are very small performance differences so you should really buy a motherboard for the features, not for a performance uplift.

From my experience, I'd RMA the motherboard. It's more likely the issue, and when starting off with unstable hardware like this, the issues never really go away and they'll haunt you throughout the lifetime of your computer. Sidenote: This could also potentially be caused by a bad power supply -- what model is your EVGA PSU?