RadiatingLight

If it's working, why update anything? What's the problem you're trying to fix? Also, are you sure that the 'controller' that shows up is really the Xbox controller? Does it go away if you unplug?

Plenty of people are buying 3060-class cards. If it's priced right and performs right, they'll make good money from it. Battlemage and beyond have a hope of competing in the higher end, but as a first effort Alchemist is pretty good looking so far. Remember that AMD's Ryzen 1000 series entered into a CPU world where Intel was barely innovating, and had memory problems, lower single-core performance (which also meant lower gaming performance), high core-to-core latency due to the infinity fabric, etc. It wasn't a real competition with Intel's high end, at least for gaming. However, AMD's 2nd gen (and especially 3rd gen) got so much better that now they're competing with Intel and taking the crown pretty often.

Essentially, they speak different languages with 2 main differences: Difference 1: X86 is a very old language, and ancient commands must be supported in order to maintain backwards compatibility with old programs. For example, processors have registers (basically tiny super fast chunks of memory where they store the numbers they're currently working on. On 64-bit processors, this is naturally 64-bit. That's where the name comes from). Modern X86 CPUs have ~20ish registers, but let's use the 'A' register as an example. Old intel CPUs were 16-bit, and supported 3 ways to access this register. 'AX' referred to the entire register, but you could also use 'AH' to get the high bits (first 8) or 'AL' to get the low bits (last 8). Then, intel upgraded to 32-bit CPUs, meaning the 'A' register was now 32-bits instead of 16-bits, but they couldn't break backwards-compatibility with programs that expected 'AX' to be just 16-bits in size, and so they created a new name: "EAX" to refer to the *E*xpanded AX register, and 'AX' would refer to the last 16-bits of the 'EAX' register. The same thing happened for 64-bit, with 'RAX' being the name for the entire 64-bit region, 'EAX' still working and accessing the last 32 bits, 'AX' still being the last 16. This happened for every register, for every command, etc. etc. (example: there is a different move/add/multiply/etc. command for 16-bit, 32-bit, and 64-bit numbers) ARM doesn't have to deal with this, because it's new enough that these legacy instructions were never created for it in the first place. Difference 2: X86 has very specific instructions for very complex niche scenarios. (watch this video for some examples of really wacky specific instructions https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wz_xJPN7lAY). If you end up in one of these scenarios, then the instruction is perfect and probably faster than anything else you could've done, but the hardware to process all of these complex instructions takes up space on the chip, and the increased complexity makes it use more power. ARM has a reduced instruction set, meaning that it's a simpler design that can do common operations with good power efficiency, at the expense of doing those niche/specific tasks slower, since you'll have to break them down into simple chunks that the processor can handle, rather than do them all at once. Today, ARM is basically an objectively better architecture for general-purpose computing, and the only reason we're still on X86 for most things is because due to their different languages, switching to ARM would mean we need to emulate/translate every app, which is a pain and is slow.

You might not have any extra CPU power connectors depending on which PSU you have (maybe look up your PSU model and check the list of included cables). Generally it should be fine for running at stock speeds I think, but I'd recommend the extra 4-pin for serious overclocking.

Nope, it should be fine. However, Windows might detect it as a different PC and decide to de-activate itself. Make sure you either know your Windows key (so you can re-enter it in case your install deactivates) or that it's linked to your Microsoft account.

Are you perhaps booting in BIOS mode instead of UEFI mode? Disable CSM in BIOS and see if anything changes

I have absolutely no idea -- This seems like something Linus would make a video about. 80% chance that you'll never be able to find compatible drivers for this thing, and even if you do there's a good chance it'll suck at gaming. I wouldn't get it.

Right now, Intel has better processors at better prices. Simple as that. The 5800X3D is the only AMD CPU that's as good at gaming as Intel's 12th Gen, and it's far more expensive. the 12600K(F) is a great balance between gaming performance and having lots of cores and it's one of the best value CPUs right now. This might change as Ryzen 7000 comes out (either with Ryzen 5000 dropping in price, or Ryzen 7000 being competitively priced and/or better than intel 12th Gen)

As excited as you may be for this build, if you're waiting until RTX 4000 / Ryzen 7000, it's not really useful getting fine-grained help on a build like this. Prices will change, you'll need to change your RAM (since Ryzen 7000 is DDR5-only), and any detailed advice we give out here is going to be invalid by then. Come back in a few months

That's for M Key, which means it's PCIe (NVME) -- That's good and means that the Sabrent I recommended will work. https://www.atpinc.com/blog/what-is-m.2-M-B-BM-key-socket-3#:~:text=in different lengths.-,Keys and Sockets,-An M.2

That one's actually rated F-tier on the PSU tier list due to an issue with overcurrent protection Try to look at the tier list here: https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/ and ideally try to get a Tier-B PSU (if you can't get B then tier C will suffice, but nothing lower)

If you're buying something today, I'd go with Intel 12600K(F) and RTX 3060Ti You can also consider some AMD GPUs that are generally cheaper for the same level of performance like the 6700XT (but AMD GPUs are missing some features like DLSS, and are worse at raytracing) Nobody knows what will happen in 5 years, so nobody can say. It'll still be a pretty powerful rig, but nobody can guarantee you'll be able to run everything on high/ultra. You might want to consider waiting a few months for RTX 4000 series and Ryzen 7000 series.

Not sure if that would be any less of a fire hazard lol. -- You'd want at least $50/60 to get a new PSU. If I were you, I'd do the molex thing. However, look it up first and maybe get a second opinion. I'm hesitant to intentionally tell people to put risky wiring in their PCs. That's the CPU 8-pin. It's not the same pinout as the PCI-e 8-pin and it won't even fit into GPUs.

Nope. You might be losing some performance, as Ryzen will boost to slightly higher clocks when it has some thermal headroom, but anything under 100C won't hurt your computer (even for long periods of time), and your CPU will shut itself off before damaging itself. You don't even need to take breaks. Maybe if you're running like Folding@Home where it'll be under 100% load 24/7 I'd be somewhat concerned, but for gaming there's no issue. That being said, there might be some low-hanging fruit you could try in order to lower temps -- It shouldn't be getting that hot in the first place. What cooler are you using and what are the rest of your system specs?

Probably a combination of coincidence and maybe driver issues? If the headset works on other systems, it's not dead. The new PC is just probably having USB driver issues. It's very unlikely (although technically not impossible) for the motherboard to damage a connected USB device. Make sure you have all chipset drivers downloaded from your motherboard manufacturer's website.

A 750W PSU should have at least one 8-pin (unless Dell is super weird, which they might be) Make sure to re-check every cable coming out of your PSU, and check if the 6-pin has the two dangling extra pins to convert it to an 8-pin. If you really don't have an 8-pin, you could (although this is not officially recommended, and you take all risk of burning your house down -- that being said I've run much worse arrangements in my PC and it's been fine) use the molex -> 6-pin and then 2x6-pin -> 8-pin adapter, and your PSU should handle it no problem. If possible, try using the first molex in a chain of many.

Get this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Internal-Maximum-Performance-SB-ROCKET-NVMe4-500/dp/B07XFGPFZK/ $56 after the coupon Alternatively (if you have the budget) spring for the 1TB version at $91, you'll thank yourself later.

Just use the stock cooler it'll be good enough for now

No, you can't use a 6-pin instead of an 8-pin because they don't deliver the same amount of power, and the GPU needs the whole amount. Depending on your PSU's capacity and connectors, you *MIGHT* be able to get away with using a molex -> 6-pin converter, and then a 2x6-pin -> 8-pin converter. However, note that this is breaking the allowed power delivery of the molex connector, and is pretty unsafe. What's your current PSU?

Wayyy better than either of the above choices. Get this one.

If you don't need the portability, then go for the desktop. (although if it's possible, I would really try to get a 3000 series CPU* instead of the 2600X) The desktop will give you a wonderful upgrade path in terms of both GPU and CPU, while the Laptop will give you nothing. 16GB of RAM is also a nice-to-have. 8GB gets pretty cramped, even today. In a few years it really won't be that much. *except not a 3000 G-series CPU, because AMD is weird and they're still on Zen+

Even a normal re-paste of the cooler would probably drop temps by a few degrees, and liquid metal is definitely better. Looks like you know what you're doing, go for it! (ofc, you do risk damaging your laptop and you 100% will void your warranty, but you probably already knew that) It also might be worth looking for any fan speed settings in the BIOS. (or in Lenovo's proprietary software). Laptops will sometimes not run their fans at full speed in order to keep quiet, but if you don't care too much about noise, you might be able to turn on a 'boost mode' or similar.

That cooler is WAY overkill for such a power-efficient CPU, and it would probably be cheaper to buy a motherboard with WiFi integrated. Here's what I'd build (Intel build, but you could pretty easily switch the Motherboard/CPU to a 5800X + B550 with WiFi) https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rvvTzf Some notes: The GPU pricing on PC Partpicker is pretty inaccurate. I'd recommend lurking on reddit's r/buildapcsales to get good deals on either an RTX 3060 in the ~$350 range, or a 3060Ti in the ~$450 range. Both are not that hard to get. (or, you could wait 2 weeks and they'll drop in price to those numbers without you having to look).

Given the sound, it seems like maybe an electrical short? (I'm no expert in this, so take everything here with a grain of salt) In that case, your best bet (unless you are an electrical engineer or know someone who is) is to send it back to Dell for repair.

If they're free, obviously take them, but I still wouldn't use them for gaming. The low single-core performance and high multicore performance makes them good for stuff like video rendering, virtualization, etc. Maybe consider selling them? If you use it for yourself, you'll still end up spending several hundreds on an X399 motherboard, and the performance you get in gaming will be significantly worse than a 5600X + B550 motherboard (or 12400F + B660 motherboard), which are both similarly priced or even cheaper than an X399 motherboard alone.