RadiatingLight

It couldve just died, but maybe check the "create and format hard disk partitions" menu to see if it shows up there? If you have another spare M.2 slot you could try it there as well.

Even if you leave Task Manager idle on the screen for a few mins (just like you're doing with HWmonitor)? If so, that's pretty weird. Maybe a virus that doesn't want to be found, and so detects if task manager is open?? Perhaps using Resource Monitor instead of taskmanager might fool it? Or download a 3rd party task viewing program? If all else fails, doing a windows reinstall (you can even do a reset via windows settings, keeping all your files) will almost certainly solve the problem.

What does task manager say is using up your CPU? It's possible that you have some program that's mining cryptocurrency on your computer when idle.

Seems pretty nicely balanced. If I were you, I'd upgrade to a 12700K for the 2 extra p-cores but it's not that big of a deal. Also keep in mind that AMD's Zen4 might beat Intel's 12th gen and is releasing in about 5 weeks, if you feel like waiting. It might be better for you, but if not I'm sure 12th gen prices will drop even if you don't want Zen4.

Did you open up your HDD? If so, yes you are screwed. (You can try re-assembling it and getting the data off as soon as possible, but the HDD is 100% toast long-term)

Maybe dust or debris in the port? try cleaning it with a slim toothpick or like a sim-removal tool just be careful not to break it

Yeah integrated graphics is just fine for your uses. Don't reduce boot drive size, you'll hate yourself later. If you want a quieter cooler. just get a bigger one so it won't have to work as hard. This is limited by the SFF case (and come to think of it, I didn't really check compatibility with the first cooler anyway, so double-check that)

The amount of GPU horsepower you need will vary based on whether the programs for editing photos can effectively use the GPU. The answer is probably not, but if you *do* need GPU-acceleration, then you can just add like a used RTX 2060 for ~$250 (not quite sure where the used market is rn) and still be under the $1000 budget. Maybe something like this? PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/JB9Rwc CPU: Intel Core i5-12600K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($278.95 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: ID-COOLING SE-224-XT 76.16 CFM CPU Cooler ($31.49 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Gigabyte B660M DS3H AX DDR4 Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($129.99 @ Amazon) Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($89.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Intel 670p 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($84.99 @ Amazon) Case: SAMA IM01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case Power Supply: Phanteks AMP 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($78.98 @ Amazon) Total: $694.39 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-08-04 17:18 EDT-0400 If you still want more ways to cut cost, you could go down to 16GB RAM, or even Downgrade to a 12400F (NOT RECOMMENDED) If you have more budget, add either a 4TB+ hard drive, or upgrade the SSD to a 2TB model, since for photos this will be very useful.

11900K runs hot, so getting to 80c isn't a huge surprise. If it reaches above ~90C, then you might want to start really looking into it. 80c is normal (especially if your motherboard has MCE enabled) -- However, there might be some low-hanging fruit to improve temps. You could try re-mounting the cooler and replacing the thermal paste (especially if your PC was prebuilt or you used generic TIM, this might improve temps by a few degrees). You could also just increase fan RPM or pump speed.

Your laptop will come with TPM2.0 and Secure boot enabled, as those are requirements to install (or sell) a laptop with Windows 11. However, Windows 11 won't stop working if you disable these features. Set up W11 first, and then you can disable Secure Boot without much fuss. You can either set up W11 normally and then shrink the C drive, or you could set it up, make sure the W11 license key is linked to your MS account, and then re-install from a USB stick. This will let you set the size of your C drive during installation, and will also get rid of the bloatware. Neither of these options will void your W11 license.

Yeah like others said: Either temporarily relocate your PC near your modem/router and plug in via ethernet, or you could download the drivers on another computer and move it over on a USB

Seems like the HDMI port is physically wired into the iGPU instead of the Nvidia GPU. Nothing you can do really. It'll still be able to render the games on the 3060, but you'll suffer a ~10% performance hit since the signal basically has to be relayed by the iGPU (Unless you have a MUX in your laptop, but those are pretty rare outside of high-end models)

Clear the CMOS (take out the silver coin-style battery for 5 mins). Once you boot with the 3600X, update your BIOS to version F32, then F55. 5000 series CPUs should work then.

If you want a modern-enough phone for Bluetooth 5.2 (and other stuff like Wifi 6E) you won't be getting a headphone jack and Pixel 6a (or 6 at a discount, which is what I would try to get if possible) is probably your best bet. Miiiight be worth looking at Motorola, but I haven't been keeping up to date with their stuff.

You could always DIY-it, taking apart the cooler and finding the orange LEDs, then desoldering/disconnecting them, but this is risky and will 100% void your warranty so don't do it until your warranty is over at least.

All lights usually turn on for a moment when the motherboard first starts up. Not sure about the beep (I've almost never used a motherboard with speaker) but I think everything's fine. Maybe there's a BIOS setting for beep on startup?

Why not a Pixel 5a (or a 4a, since they're basically the same phone) It does have a punch hole camera, but so does everything else so it's unavoidable.

If you're selling them custom hardware, just sell them something with an actual antenna in it... This post is about using regular cables to transmit stuff.

"For a SATAn attack to succeed, an attacker first needs to infect the target air-gapped system." Yeah so basically it'll never be used in the real world, because the same communication method used to infect the system can just be used to exfiltrate any info.

Distance between PCIe slots is standardized. Most GPUs will specify if they're a 2-slot or 3-slot cooler size (if not, you can just look at reviews or something), and then just make sure you get a motherboard with at least that much spacing between your x16 slots. If you want to go really crazy, you could pick up a Threadripper system and put up to 4 GPUs in there, but ofc that'll be much more expensive. Also, RTX 3080 and 3090 are quite similar in terms of performance (maybe like a +10% difference), if that changes anything. 3080s are much cheaper. If you're going for a real high-end workstation build, maybe something like this? https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Z690-Creator-Content-Motherboard-Thunderbolt/dp/B09K92GRQF (3 slots distance between top and middle PCIe slots in this motherboard)

Personally, I would do it because I think the Lenovo looks better and I love battery life, but it's really your choice, both are good options. The 5600H won't bottleneck the 3060.

Check the manual that came with the cooler, or attach a picture of what these wires/connectors look like. Generally one might be the pump header, which powers the pump (you *need* to plug the pump header in), and another might be a USB header to interface with NZXT's CAM software and give you RGB control.

Samsung has a good warranty and good support -- I expect they'll send you a replacement drive.

That's weird. I'd install the latest BIOS version if at all possible. Try redownloading it just in case something got messed up. If it doesn't work still, then install the latest that works, and then maybe from there you can get to the actual latest.

I would recommend not doing this with anything more physical than compressed air. I'd rather RMA the motherboard than risk damaging the socket pins and getting denied an RMA