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About cc143

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Glasgow, UK
  • Interests
    Cars, Sailing, Hiking, Scouting, Photography
  • Biography
    3rd year Economics at the University of Glasgow
  • Occupation


  • CPU
    i7 6700k @ 4.5GHZ
  • Motherboard
    ASUS Z170 Deluxe
  • RAM
    2x8gb Teamgroup 2400mhz DDR$
  • GPU
  • Case
    NZXT H440
  • Storage
    OCZ Agility 240GB SSD + 2TB Seagate HDD
  • PSU
    CM Realpower M1000
  • Display(s)
    2x Samsung Syncmaster 2494HM
  • Cooling
    CM hyper 212 evo
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G710+
  • Mouse
    Logitech MX Performance
  • Operating System
    Win 10/ Ubuntu

Recent Profile Visitors

1,752 profile views
  1. Ok so I know this may seem a bit controversial, but how about an m50 with the 15-45mm lens and/or, depending on the task at hand, the 22mm f/2? I generally believe that having inyerchangeable lenses is a big +, and given you can get that in a smaller package given how small mirrorless cameras can be if you stay away from FF options, I don't see why not. Obviously 4k isn't a requirement, even though its vaguely there, DPAF is class leading at the moment, the kit lens is fine-ish, but so are all of them really... and the 22mm f/2 is a great idea for a panny, which performs pretty well and keeps the package quite small. Frankly, I wish fuji had a similar option that was a bit wider and with a larger aperture than the 23mm f/2 I currently have and adore. It's within budget, and if you ever become serious about the stuff you shoot, there is potential for expansion with EF and EF-S lenses, hell even into the rest of the system if Canon ever get a grip on what they want to do with the rf system.
  2. I cant say for sure, you could get something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer®-Shutter-Release-MarkIII-MarkII/dp/B01FFFDX6C/ref=pd_sbs_421_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01FFFDX6C&pd_rd_r=115a2989-d3ab-11e8-8286-fda63d4d42fe&pd_rd_w=x1eLK&pd_rd_wg=EjZV4&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_p=18edf98b-139a-41ee-bb40-d725dd59d1d3&pf_rd_r=005SF8XDZT2HFS69TAG7&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=005SF8XDZT2HFS69TAG7 which has a number of adapters for different cameras.
  3. look through amazon for a compatible intervalometer, its probably gonna be through usb if it takes one.
  4. yes it has to be one with the connector that would allow connection with your particular camera, what connections are there at the side of the camera?
  5. Yes you can you just have to manually press the shutter button at the required settings at the intervals you wish the timelapse to be. That is time consuming, inaccurate and tedious, so just look for a cheap intervalometer in amazon for your camera, shouldn't cost more than 10-15 euro.
  6. Yeah thats the price level differences I was on about initially. What about an a7iii? Sony a6500? I'd probably opt for the m50 over both for this though.
  7. Well pretty much anything is sharper than the sony 16-50mm, it must be the worst lens I've ever tried, hell, my 18-55mm from Canon that came with my 350d was probably sharper than that pos.
  8. There's only a couple of decent sigma primes specifically for Sony APS-C though, I would actually refrain from buying a huge zoom as i said, because I think the loss in iq is too much from a point on. In fact, for an APS-C camera, I would only go with a 24-70mm f/2.8 equivalent. Hell, for my fuji I only have the 16mm 1.4 and 23mm and 50mm f/2 and I manage just fine for the purpose I use it for, which is travelling, walking around or going somewhere where my Canon is just too much of a fuss to carry. Honestly, if you will really preclude the possibility of going FF in the future, then just go Fuji. I would even look into it in your position actually. The xt2 or xt20 could be had quite cheaply used, and an 18-135mm might be reachable with the amount you'd spend on the lens and proceeds from selling your kit...
  9. That is true, anything before the a7rii was completely useless with most adapters, and even the a7rii wasn't that reliable, huge variance between lenses, may sto working abruptly etc. Unfortunately though, Sony seem to have completely given up on their APS-c line, I'd look for a used 17-70 I can test out in some way or something like that, or even consider buying while travelling. Other than that, I'd go with the 18-105, because of the constant aperture.
  10. I don't know how strong the australian dollar is atm, but I have found a number of 5dmk4s used on ebay for around £2000 over here. If you can wait a couple of months you could also consider the eos r with an ef adapter, and if you are willing to sacrifice 4k, the 6d mk2.
  11. You are not going to get anywhere near the sharpness of the sigma with most quality zooms, let alone a superzoom that practically gives a 28-200mm range. The only superzoom I know that is actually ok and I might have considered buying is the 18-135mm by fuji, which is pretty great for a zoom, let alone a superzoom, but obviously that is not an option and the only reason I'm mentioning it is that the stars were aligned wuite a bit for that to happen. I wouldn't be comfortable with anything that gives a longer range than a 24-105mm equivalent personally, and even then, I'm just willing to trade off carrying 2 lenses or more to cover the range, only if its a reasonale and constant aperture, or at least, if its gonna be variable, the narrow end being at f/4.0 or something. Now, as far as your thing is concerned, have you thought about the sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4.0DC adapted to Sony? I'm not sure it will work that well tbh, but if that is an option, it might be better all things considered.
  12. cc143

    Upgrading from old canon d7

    Yes, definitel go used, new stuff for that market segment tends to be dramatically overpriced in comparison.
  13. Sticking the camera in auto isn't the best way to get results out of it, you may be better off sticking with your phone. There is huge benefit to be had from using even an older camera from using your phone because it gives you control over aspects of the image you wouldn't have otherwise, and also because of the lack of substantial optical zoom on most phones (although that is being addressed with multiple cameras etc. on recent phones.). That's why even a photographer that's not that great but has a very basic understanding would be able to get much better results from a camera, even if the phone would be better on paper. But, modern phones have capable enough cameras and more importantly, software that can be utilised to examine a scene and determine how the image ould best be taken, that is much better than automatic modes in most cameras. Couple that with the size, weight and cost of buying a camera, and it makes it a waste to buy one if your goal is not to learn anything about it, but simply stick it in auto nd press the shutter release button. In short, if you will spend the $500, then spend an hour to learn some very basic concepts around photography. If you are unwilling to do that, use our iphone, you'd be better off for it.
  14. I would also like to add that the t5 is now quite old and is worth nowhere near $550. I'd spend at most $200 for a used one, and that's being quite generous.
  15. The gopro isn't what you are or should be looking at here. A rebel t7i is the best thing for you at the moment, and really worth the money over the t7. I would also think of looking through ebay for something used. Tha coupled with the 18-5mm kit lens should cover you unless you need something more specific for a specific purpose, like a longer focal to shoot sports or a wider focal for indoor photography or a portraiture lens (for example). Also, the mp thing is true and false at the same time. Entry level cameras have had 24mp sensors for sometime, yet professional grade cameras have often come either under that or proportionately not as high as one should expect. It depends more on the lens you put in front most of the time and lighting. That way, you can print from a much lower resolution sensor and get similar or even better results.