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cc143

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About cc143

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    Veteran
  • Birthday 1993-10-08

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    i7 6700k @ 4.5GHZ
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    ASUS Z170 Deluxe
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    Win 10/ Ubuntu

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    Male
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    Glasgow, UK
  • Interests
    Cars, Sailing, Hiking, Scouting, Photography
  • Biography
    3rd year Economics at the University of Glasgow
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  1. Another option would be a set of off camera operated flashes and a softbox. I have seen softboxes that are shaped as a cube, you place the product inside and a flash on each side and end up with something of the sort you are looking for. Also, if you get good quality led panels or strobes, colour temperature can be adjusted individually and gels can be used to make it consistent with other lighting in the site. But, to be honest, there are many people out there whose job is to do this and would get much better results than you guys, using specialised lenses, higher quality cameras etc, able to perfectly edit and so on. So why not get one of them to come round?
  2. Fujifilm X-T100

    Actually, it does have dpaf as well, and battery will last longer because you can leave it on without draining it working the evf. Listen, its not my cup of tea, and I do own a fuji but it is convoluted at best to suggest that the sl2 has nothing going for it other than the EF system. Between the 2, if all someone wanted was a capable camera to strap round their neck when on holiday, the sl2 might actually be the better choice in the real world. I would still buy the fuji though.
  3. Canon EOS 1300D DSLR

    I have long argued that Canon's 1x00d series is not worth spending the money on and should be discontinued altogether, but it sells because many amateurs who don't know what to look for go out and buy one. The 800d/t7i is a much better camera and worth the premium you'd pay for it, but even if you don't want to, a used 700d would be a much better place to put your money than that pos.
  4. Look at the panasonic g7 if you are strictly into video only, if you want to do some photography as well, I'd go with a t7i
  5. Travel-Camera for citytrip

    Just use your phone, its not worth the hustle and money at that point. If you were considering something like an x100f then maybe, but, I would just use my phone if a dslr is a nuisance to carry.
  6. Mobile photography equipment

    You can try a small tripod and a phone mount, but other than that I wouldn't bother that much for the sort of photography your images suggest you're looking into getting into. (You can use your earphone's volume controls as a shutter release). Maybe, try getting some editing experience and knowledge in the mean time, but other than that, a camera would be most beneficial for you, actually, given what I see from your pictures, I'd say even a cheap used film camera (that shares the same lens mount with current cameras, so Nikon F and Canon EF) or an older model with an affordable lens would help you a lot more than investing in phone accessories.
  7. Problem with new lens

    Ok so bit late to the party here but: f/00 is displayed because as far as the camera is concerned there's no lens attached. You may be able to gt something in focus if you move closer to the subject at a given focus distance, but its not worth the hassle. Also, the focus screen on cameras such as yours is really not that suited for manual focus. It will probably look fine, but its very hard to get it in exact focus by looking tghrough the viwfinder alone. Also, dude if you need a portrait lens pick up a 50mm 1.8 its $100 so it can't be more than $50 more than what you paid for the 28mm and adapter and it will be much sharper, quicker to focus and actually produce much better results. Hell you can probably find an older version used for half that, even though at $100, that thing is amazing value.
  8. Lightroom CC for mobile, I used to use snapseed before that but its not that reliable.
  9. Well it varies on what you are doing. For the mirrorless systems, if you want something versatile and small for landscape use, the lee seven5 system is quite nice, but that is mostly useful for photography. If what you want to do is simply cut out light to be able to shoot at a given shutter speed wide open in broad daylight, variable nd filters are mostly the way to go. Cheap nd filters in my experience are a waste of money, they give unwanted casts, there's loads of light leaking, which is untenable in darker ones etc. That said, if you need to shoot video in broad daylight wide open, you are better off using a cheap one than not using one. Also, they should be cheaper for narrower threaded lenses. Also keep in mind that in wider focal lengths, the use of step down rings might introduce vignetting to your image. So i'd just wait and see if you need it. That said, I did buy a cheap set off amazon (like £15) before going into a proper system and it did help me narrow down what sort of filters I actually needed, eliminating quite a lot of cost. It really depends on what you are shooting. If you are doing portraiture, the 18-55 and 50 f/2 seem like great options, if you are doing landscapes and cityscapes, the 10-24 is the most versatile option, but those are pretty pricy.
  10. I've been using them for years with no issue, other than that the original seems to last quite a bit longer ( Come to think of it, its possible it's worth its money given how long it lasts in comparison). I wouldn't imagine a lot, although it does depend on the bit rate too. Keep in mind there are also speed requirements on the sd card to record 4k footage, so that is something you may wanna look into. I'd get a cheap trigger or intervalometer too. Soft release button might be nice on the xt20/xt2, I have one on the xt10. If you are getting the xt20 and are gonna be shooting off a tripod a lot, you may want to buy some sort of bracket that moves the tripod mount, because as it is, any sized plate will obscure access to the battery and sd card. (that is probably the single thing that drives me completely crazy on that camera). I've almost bought an x-pro1 every time I carried it out with a plate on.
  11. The 2 are pretty different it seems to me, especially if you are getting an equivalent FOV of 750mm vs 600mm. Also, I'm pretty sure that thing has a variable aperture and the Nikon's VR system is supposed to be top notch. To be completely honest with you, for what it is that 200-500 for that price is a steal.
  12. Camera upgrade for mama B

    Well the a lot of professionals use it may not be the best arguments when talking about every day individuals. A pro will quickly realise the limitations of their equipment and take them in mind when using it, altering their workflow accordingly or pick equipment that fits their workflow in the first place. For instance, if you are a pro and know your camera performs okay in certain sorts of lighting up to 3200 ISO you shoot up to 3200 ISO, if you set the camera in auto it might decide well hang on a minute, I can go up to 25600, why not just do that and shoot at 1/250th instead of 1/30th. I've never edited or shot m4/3 cameras, so I'm not an expert by any stretch, but it might be something to consider.
  13. Camera upgrade for mama B

    Is it really that much of a difference? I mean given the x-t20 should be about $1000 with the 18-55 that means you got an em10mk2 for $250? If you did then sure, that's a great deal. My objection is with the sensor personally, I wouldn't go for something smaller than aps-c unless it had significant size advantages or some other specialist reason. I do think the fuji will end up being easier to use, but other than that, the m10mk2 is fine I guess. The x-t20 would probably be the ideal choice, but the olympus should work. There's also a more extensive lens system I think.
  14. Camera upgrade for mama B

    You say that, but because the xt20 is laid out in front of you instead of looking through menus and because exposure functions in the Fuji system are laid out in tactile dials etc. it is actually easier to understand and use. I routinely teach kids I work with (11-15) about photography, and it is just much easier with the xt10 because everything is laid out in front of you, you don't have to assign it to a fn button or look through a menu. With a dslr that is much harder. I think your budget would probably fit an xt20 with an 18-55mm f/2.8-4 OIS, don't go dor the 16-50mm, the 18-55mm is much better.
  15. I don't think you'd be able to pick out the difference, but with the d500 I'd assume you'd get more keeper files from bursts due to AF accuracy and sheer bulk. i.e. the d500 will make it easier for you to get the shot. What you might notice with the d7200 vs the d500 is the AF system being less accurate so that in 10 frames say 6 instead of 8 are sharp (not actual consistency results, just as a representation of the difference), the buffer will run out faster etc. The rest of the reasons is stuff you won't know until you use a d500. I believe the difference is worth it but you are obviously constrained by your budget. Of the 2 original systems, the nikon is worth it due to the 200-500, which doesn't exist on the Canon side, although I'd expect the Canon to be sharper tbh. The 7dmk2 will also shoot more frames and probably be more reliable in AF. Just go with the d7200, I think that 200-500 is worth it due to the versatility.
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