GalacticRuler

That won't be an issue. The CPU rated speed are stock speeds, while the motherboard allows for speeds faster than the CPU's stock speeds.

There's no way to know for sure what got damaged, but if anything died it was most likely the SSD, since you say the arc came from it. If your friend has a PC of his own you could test the GPU with his PC, and for the CPU and RAM the most likely situation is that the motherboard took the damage in their stead. Though again, nothing can be said for certain until it is tested.

Are you sure you got rid of the overclock entirely? That could be what's causing your instability, though IMO it feels like the frame drops are way too consistent for it to be a hardware issue.

B660 was released after the full Alder Lake lineup, so it wouldn't have to do with an incompatible BIOS. There's no CPU compatible with the socket that needs a BIOS update to boot.

I certainly can't say whether they're any better than sellers on other websites, but I have purchased there on numerous occasions without any issues. I still have keys from 6+ years ago still going strong, so I wouldn't call it an outright scam. What sucks is that place had a relatively decent reputation compared to most other sellers on places like G2A or eBay, where a lot of those products are hit or miss. Despite what a lot of people might think, there was some level of trust when purchasing from there, unlike eBay sellers with week-old accounts that could ghost you at any moment. Even if it wasn't "popular," it's still the place that many people used to recommend.

Did you check and see that USB hot-swapping is not disabled in either the BIOS or your Windows install?

It could very well be dust buildup, or it could be an actual issue with the fan. Easiest option is to go about cleaning it and see what difference it makes.

I primarily play on PC, but when I want to just lie down in bed I use my Switch Lite. They each serve their own purpose, and having a Nintendo console is nice for the exclusives that I enjoy.

In the end it's your choice, but in my personal opinion I would go with the first option. It sets you up with a strong base that will be enough for the foreseeable future, and the potential to expand if you come to have issues. The second option will honestly be better right off the bat, but would likely need to be replaced sooner.

Hmm, if that's that case, I might actually recommend you go with the 2-piece Eero 6, and if you do end up with dead zones, upgrade with another extender in the future if possible. Personally, I would rather have a strong base with expansion capability than a weaker base that would need replacement sooner. The other option is to forget about Wifi 6, and instead go with a 3-piece tri-band setup. It's overall going to be weaker than a Wifi 6 setup, but the tri-band should compensate somewhat.

Is this one in your budget? It's Wifi 6, but not tri-band, though in your situation having a 3-part set is more important than tri-band. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Deco-X20-Next-Gen-Extenders/dp/B085Z35GY6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3BVYMH2BHLKEY&dchild=1&keywords=wifi%2B6%2Bmesh&qid=1626319403&sprefix=wifi%2B6%2Bmesh%2Caps%2C290&sr=8-3&th=1

Actually, that does make a difference. If you have 3 floors, you likely want a 3-part set. Wifi is notorious for having poor signal in between floors, and especially something like a basement. A 2-part set would likely leave dead zones.

It's actually one of the biggest changes in Wifi iterations, since the introduction of the 5Ghz band. If you have smart home devices or just many devices in general, it allocates the different devices for maximum speeds and latency.

That power supply appears very overpriced. You don't need 850W, and certainly not the ROG Strix branding. Something in the 600-700W range would be plenty, and would likely shave off a solid $100.

If that's the case, I would pick the Eero 6, because of Wifi 6 support. It doesn't have to be that exact router, but preferably look for something with Wifi 6 support, and maybe tri-band if possible.

Oh no, I'm not telling you to pull the wires out. Just give it a little tug between the jack/keystone and the main cable itself, like you would when pulling out a USB cord from a wall adapter. But yeah, your best bet would probably be to redo the ends.

What speeds are you getting from your ISP? Because I know from personal experience that the Eero 6 non-Pro caps out far below Gigabit speeds.

Did you restart your computer yet? Don't panic, as this looks far more reminiscent of a driver issue than a hardware issue.

You're right, I missed the part about his initial speeds. OP: Try taking both ends of your CAT cable and give it a gentle but firm yank at the connector. Make sure that all 8 wires are intact, as it's possible you messed up one of the internal wires when trimming the jacket. I highly doubt that the wire inside the walls are damaged, so you probably don't need to replace the cable, and maybe just the ends.

These are in Canadian dollars, meaning that not only is the dollar worth less, but parts often cost more than they would in the US. His $2000-$3000 budget is more like a $1500-$2200 budget in USD, and prices of parts are higher.

What was your RAM amount before the upgrade? Because to me it seems that your games are using memory based on the total value of the old amount, rather than the new 4GB total. You might need to go into the game's settings and change this manually. For example, Minecraft will never use more than 1GB of RAM unless you manually change the value higher.

Is your motherboard's ethernet port a Gigabit port, and if so, do you have the drivers installed for it? The fact that it's hitting exactly 100Mbps leads me to believe it's an issue with the ethernet port, not the cable itself. If it turns out your port isn't Gigabit or is damaged, you can always purchase a Gigabit PCIe card.

Interesting, I never knew this. I was always under the assumption that it was the molex end to blame, given that molex is singled out as the cause for most problems in PCs.

Yeah, I'm not trying to say that Intel's approach is "wrong," more pointing out that Intel's tactics in singling out AMD for their approach is really just underhanded, especially when a larger portion of laptop users benefit from the latter's approach.

No. Not because of the laptop with the broken screen, but because of trying to use the display of another laptop. Your broken laptop should output fine to an external monitor, but no device can output into a laptop, since laptops don't support foreign inputs for their displays.