Cannon Lake

It's never the gear that stopping you from getting started with electronics. I don't like breadboards that much, it will work but won't give you that feeling. When was about your age I used Lodestar 60W soldering Iron (https://www.gearbest.com/soldering-supplies/pp_313889.html?wid=1433363#goodsDetail) , it was only 3 bucks. It didn't had any fancy feature like temperature control or extra tips. But it worked surprisingly well. That soldering iron looks decent should do the job just fine.

I'm not sure if it's 24V AC or DC that you're using as an input, you've put an AC sign before 24V If that's DC, you've just saved yourself a lot of trouble 24-28V DC relays are all over the place. Just get yourself a decent one and use a diode(flyback) in reverse biased to protect the circuit. You can do that with a Transistor. MOSFET whatever your heart desires or even better an IGBT, can easily handle hundreds of amps no problem. Datasheet for AC/DC relay (https://www.mgelectronic.rs/ProductFilesDownload?Id=4174) If it's 24V AC, if not skip the rest Ok, so the coil resistance of a 24V AC relay is around 160ohm. Connecting it to 24V AC will cause about 150mA current through it. So, (24*0.15) 3.6 watts of wasted power right? WRONG!!! Coil is an inductive element and will have reactance in AC circuit combing that with the coil resistance you will get the impedance. This impedance will cause 50-60mA(depends on the frequency) current to flow instead of 150mA lowering the power loss to 1.2W and surely 50-60mA isn't much and there is no way most of the current will flow just to switch the relay. Just look out for the types of relay that you get. There are mainly two types, one with AC coil and with DC. Since you're using 24V AC to switch the relay you must get a relay with AC coil and rated voltage.

Given that you will be running only your PC off of that power strip it should be fine. Pulling 500-1000 watt through a generic extension cable is safe unless you have those super cheap chinese extension cord or power strip from china.

Ultrabooks and expensive laptops don't use the popular 18650 Li-ion cell which makes it almost impossible to DIY anything. I looked up and found the specsheet of your laptop and it's a is 2S2P Lipo battery (Product ID: AA-PBYN4AB) Link:(https://www.amazon.com/AA-PBYN4AB-Notebook-UltraBook-NP530U3C-AA-PLWN4AB/dp/B016W316SS) I have seen the battery it seems the balancing and monitoring circuit is on the motherboard and it doesn't contain any NTC(temperature sensor)? That's weird. Well in that case, you can make room and install replacement 2S cell and watch out for.................... ahhh ha ha I'm just kidding, don't do anything stupid. Lipos can be very dangerous especially without any monitoring and balancing circuit things can go KABOOM! very easily TLDR: Is it possible? Yes! Should you do it? No.

Well, you can easily and safely determine if the PSU is functional at idle by connecting the green wire of the 24 pin atx connector with any of the black wires(aka jump starting your PSU) and see if does the same thing. If doesn't then you can put a load like a HDD or something and see if it still works. Now if you ask me I think the most likely situation is that 24 pin to 8 pin converter that you're talking about is incompatible with your board and it's turning itself off seeing probably a short saving your motherboard. I think there's nothing wrong with your PSU. Someone also mentioned it on their review on amazon. Or the unlikely scenario would be that PSU can't take the load or it's not properly functional under load. Also you can check that by using a multimeter or a LED with a resistor, without opening the PSU and getting yourself killed. There's a PGO (Power Good Out) wire (The Grey one don't mix it with the white one) which should output 5V with any of the black wires when everything is running properly (respect to the ground). More on how to jump start PSU (https://www.silverstonetek.com/downloads/QA/PSU/PSU-Paper Clip-EN.pdf)

Well, first of all 1S Lipo won't require any balancing because it's a single cell. I think you should be able to set custom current limits on this charger. and of course 6A constant current doesn't mean it will push 6A through everything. Look at the C rating. Or you can just go for the rule of thumb here and use the industry standard 0.5C for your battery it would be 75mA. Those balancing connectors are just MOSFET connected with bleeding resistors to pass the current through the charger once any cell has charged fully and through the other cells to prevent overcharging the charged one. So, connecting only to the balancing leads might discharge your battery if anything. It seems that those connectors were suppose to be connected to a PCB You can use male jumper cables to connect it with a charger.

Thermaltake ComMander Combo keyboard Mouse. Logitech UE 200i Earphone. My College report Card is my Mouse Pad. Also Running Windows 10 From a MLC USB 3.0 Flash Drive! Like to experiment and experience rather than sit back and enjoy.

I love the Autore. The placement of the keys is a bit closer together which is why Autore is different and awesome. The detachable Cable is very handy.