Uptivuptiz

On 4/3/2024 at 10:39 AM, Finesse675 said:

Thanks a million I’ve been stressing wondering why my ssd kept failing but worked again after I rebooted my system seen the post of the cable extensions and removed mine and the problem disappeared. I had already given up and bought a new nvme drive but then found this post and found out it wasn’t even the drive but the cable extensions themself so now I can return the drive and buy new cables extensions instead. I encourage everyone who is having a failing nvme that works again after reboot to disconnect there cable extensions and reboot the pc to see if the problem persists before they waste money on a part they don’t need. The cables that I had was by AsiaHorse 16awg extensions. Had them for a year before experiencing this issue.Thanks for updating this post with a solution

Happy to be of any help

I tend to use the stress testing feature built into y-cruncher, but the above mentioned by @Needfuldoer is also solid options. Just wanted to throw in my 2 cents  

You can try swapping around the 2 NVMe SSDs so that the Renegade is in the bottom slot. If this doesn't solve the issue try disconnecting as many of the drives that you don't need to boot to Windows and test again. Then if the issue goes away, add the drives one by one, testing to see if the issue comes back each time. Could be that one of the other drives is a bit funky.

On 8/21/2023 at 6:26 AM, doctorzeus1aonly said:

Your a life saver!

Been trying to figure out this one for almost a year! Eventually just added an nvme pcie card with its own 6-pin power connector, I just assumed my board was faulty!

Thanks again!

Happy to be of help.

It sounds like you had the same problem as me. Although if this was me I would try and fix it so that I wouldn't have to use a NVMe riser card. If you are using extentioncables for the PSU, you might try removing them and see if the issue goes away.  

Try taking one of the RAM sticks out of the PC and boot it up. If the same happens, shut it down and swap the sticks around. Then try again. 

Also when it crashes do you still get the Caps Lock light on your keyboard when pressing Caps Lock?

When it crashes, is it a BSOD you get or just straight to a black screen?

My gut feeling is telling me this is either a PSU or SSD issue.

11 minutes ago, Chikensoops said:

Its just gonna be a game and movie storage drive, so super high speeds aren't expected anyways. I'm not using an hdd because of space constraints in an itx build. For my boot drive I am getting a decenter ssd with dram cache (Addlink S70)

Ok, if you're fine with a DRAM-less SSD I'd say just go with the cheapest option.

I don't see any mention of a DRAM cahce on either SSD. I recommend against getting these as you can run into scenarios where they are gonna be even slower than harddrives.

4 hours ago, ArcticApe said:

it's not locked, my concern is if it ends up getting locked, and I for some reason become unable to unlock it (Idk if I ever logged in with a microsoft account on my old pc), that it wouldnt even help to plug it into my old pc

 

Ah, sorry. I didn't read it thoroughly enough.

I'd say it's a 50/50 chance that Bitlocker is gonna get triggered. As far as I know it triggers when it detects a hardware change, but I have sometimes seen that it triggers even if the machine was just powered off and unplugged from the wall. Maybe because the CMOS was reset in that timespan (I don't know for sure). If you want to check if the Bitlocker recovery key is linked to you Microsoft account you can go here and check if the key is listed.

If the drive is encrypted with Bitlocker, WikiHow has a great guide how to unlock the drive:

https://www.wikihow.com/Unlock-Bitlocker-Encrypted-Drive-from-Command-Prompt

Nope, nothing is wrong. It just means that the GPU is getting fully utilized, which is good.  

You can buy an internal USB 3.0 to Type E connector. This wil get you a sleeker look.

https://www.amazon.com/JoyReken-Internal-Motherboard-Key-Adapter/dp/B08GYFCNK9

If you want good airflow, more fans is generally better. Although this case isn't really build with good airflow in mind (closed front panel), so if you want something that let's your components breathe I'd suggest you get the Corsair 4000D Airflow.

If you don't want to buy another case just buy the 5 pack of fans. Place the included fan in the back as exaust then fill the top and front as intake.

1 minute ago, nolensis said:

I didn't buy it yet.
Are there two versions of this cooler then?

Well, yes. There is the traditional color version and then the all black version. Both include the new LGA1700 bracket.

On Noctua's website it states under the specifications that the cooler does support LGA1700. If you bought it before the launch of Intel 12th gen, then you need to contact their support and ask for the LGA1700 bracket. They will send it to you free of charge.

I think this calls for a machine that can run VMs for the people that needs its resources. The thing with Nvidia GPUs, though is that only (as far as I'm aware) their Quadro cards support GPU sharing (also called GPU slicing, Nvidia calls its Multi-Instance GPU for their Quadro cards). So sharing one GPU between multible VMs is not possible with consumer for the Geforce cards.

Also I'm kinda wondering how you are imagining this will work with Windows as the host OS. How are you going to have multible people use the same Windows maschine? Am I missing something?

1 minute ago, qboIodp said:

Yeah, I thought about it but I also read some reviews (for the 2k model) that were saying a lot about poor build quality and ghosting

Huh, I was unaware of this. Perhaps because it is a cheaper model, is the reason why the build quality isn't good. For my case, the display i use is very high quality. 

As for the ghosting I can only speak from the model I have and my experinces with it. I am currently running it with the "Fast" option (not the fasest setting) and haven't really noticed any ghosting, even when running at 160Hz.

LG Ultragear 27GL850-B should fit the bill nicely. I am currently using the step-up, 4k version (LG 27GL950-B) and I have 0 complaints after using it for about 6 months (i even updated the firmware on it so I can go up to 160 Hz).

Saw the price at 350$ USD on Newegg.

1 minute ago, TylerD321 said:

Your powersupply should have four pcie 6+2 connectors according to their specifications. If you lost the cables that came with it you should be able to order the replacements from the company.

 

V850 SFX Gold 850W Full-Modular 80 Plus Gold SFX Power Supply | Cooler Master

As far as I can tell, the PSU in question only comes with 2 PCIe powercalbes with 1 6+2 connector at the end. So the best solution would be to buy another cable.

I found these cable on Cooler Masters store, but I am unaware of which is the correct one for the V850 SFX (don't know if it uses type 1 or type 2 cables):
https://store.coolermaster.com/eu/pci-e-8-pin-to-2x62-pin-modularflat-cablemodel-1

https://store.coolermaster.com/eu/pci-e-8-pin-to-2x62-pin-modularflat-cablemodel-2

If you have a extra cable that is compatible with the V850 you're fine. I wouldn't recommend running the graphics card with only 2 PCIe power cables.

Other than that the only thing I can mention is that 850W is right on the edge of what I would consider "good enough" for a PSU that is powering a RTX 3090. If you experince sudden shutdown without warning, it might be because you are tripping the OCP in the PSU. This can only be fixed by getting a more powerful PSU.

Getting audio through HDMI should be simple. I'm pretty sure you can get audio through the HDMI port on your graphics card.

Damn, this is a long post!  Good on you for being so detailed. More people should go for your example, but whatever. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Let me clear something up:

The saying that states that Minecraft Java Edition is CPU intensive is not 100% correct. Yes, it loves fast CPUs, but the limitation of the Java Edition is that it is very single threaded. So if you want good perfomance in Minecraft get a CPU with a few very fast cores.

As @CommanderAlex have mentioned, playing 4k with a 2080 is only gonna get you so far when playing at high settings. Thus, I agree that you are GPU limited in this case.

1 hour ago, DeepCool zer0 said:

the newer AK400

Oh, I was unaware that there was a newer one. Cool 

Personnally I like the design of the GTE V2 better as it is all black instead of silver fins and black fan. But that's just my preference. 

47 minutes ago, Awman said:

sharpie + nail polish is good to go? it's not conductive or should i use a special nail polish? The sharpie = moist, it's not a risk of short circuit?

7 minutes ago, mariushm said:

Just let it be.

Or if you're paranoid, use just a tiny drop of nail polish, no sharpie or anything else.

 

The sharpie is just to cover the scratch in case the board needs to be sent in for RMA, so it's an optional step  

3 minutes ago, Awman said:

Just in case, can i just apply a tiny piece of electrical tape over it?

 

I'm not worried with RMA as it's unlikely that my MB dies and if it does, it's likely it would already be out of warranty anyway

You can use electrical tape, but I typically use car polish or clear nail polish. It's just easier to work with and doesn't come off as easy.

If you want to be sneaky you could cover the mark with a sharpie. ^_^