TyH

yeah just comparing affordable ssd .
no enterprise ssd
is intel 750 going to be slower than samsung 850 pro/ evo . besides the boot time ?

Hi there @TyH!
 
Reallocated Sector Count in SMART test is quite important as an indicator of bad sectors and a dying drive. It basically means that your hard drive found a bad sector, and swapped it with a 'reserve pool' of sectors. After this swap, the medium should be free of bad sectors to the operating system. It's a technology designed to make failing sectors on the HDD cause no trouble for the operating system because it'll just swap a new one whenever it finds that a particular sector is becoming weak (because it takes more time to read that sector than normal). 
 
It's not fatal, but there are a number potential problems.
 
1. The number of sectors available for replacement is limited. Once that number is reached no more sectors can be "fixed". A small number of reallocated sectors in not a serious but the situation should be monitored.
 
2. The number of reallocated sectors can become large, as is the case here. The real problem is that there is usually some underlying reason for bad sectors developing and that problem is still there. Such problems are usually progressive and become more serious as time progresses. As the cause is usually unknowable so too is the time frame. The numbers could become very large in a very short period of time and essentially making the drive unusable. If you have waited until now to make backups it may be too late. Backups should be made before trouble develops.
 
With these two in mind I would suggest to backup any important data you have on the drive, and look for a replace one.
 
Hope this helps and feel free to ask any questions you may have.
 
Cheers!

its only got 2 reallocated sectors which is noting, only worry if that values starts to go up, either way even if the drive is healthy you should keep a backup

Back up the data that's on the drive if you can, if drag and drop doesn't work then try and make a zip or rar, I found that I could recover a little extra data doing that. You may have lost some data though, I had a drive that had the same warning and I lost some data, not to say that you have lost any though.
 
I recommend getting a replacement asap.

Hey there TyH,   Enterprise drives can be used in regular desktops and shouldn't have any problems with it. It would be an overkill for regular home usage, but it should work just fine. The NAS/RAID features of the drive shouldn't be a problem (TLER and everything else).  Enterprise drives are generally designed for more extensive and heavier usage compared to regular consumer drives. If you are looking for reliability and data safety I would recommend to consider a RAID array option with WD Red. As @scottyseng suggested, checking the health of a drive more often could tell you when the drive is about to fail and to prepare you for the exchange.   Feel free to ask if you happen to have other questions   Captain_WD.

Ah, nope. The REs are enterprise drives after all. Well, have fun with the RE drive. I have two RE SAS 4TB drives and they run fast but hot. Make sure you use WD's Lifeguard to extended test the drive at least once to make sure you don't have a DOA drive (It happens regardless of the brand).

This^ IIRC, my RE4 runs a little warmer than my Blue in my other machine. Higher heat output in this machine, but the drives are fairly isolated from the major zones..

Red FTW

I dont see any reason why it should not work. Only question is price.

Totally. I have a RE4 as my mass storage drive.

Yes, though way overkill for home use. The only exception is if you have the SAS (not SATA) version of the RE drive (I don't think you do). Keep in mind they do run fairly hot, so please put a fan blowing on it.

Plugging In Your Drives: Motherboard Ports,
SATA Revisions and External Drives
 
By now you've probably chosen your drives, so the next step is to attach them to your computer. Barring some elaborate RAID configuration, you'll likely be asking the question:
 
Where do I plug my drives in to?
So which ports do I plug my drives in to?
 
Well now you have to ask yourself:
 
What port is the slowest port that will still allow my drive to reach its maximum performance?
What about USB hard drives?
USB hard drives are external, and are great for backups. You also can install applications and programs on them if you really want to. 
There are two factors to consider:
 
Is my HDD USB 2.0 or USB 3.0? Am I plugging it in to a USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 port? Remember how we said that hard drives get around 100 MB/s average transfer rates for large files? That corresponds to 800 Mbps, which is much faster than USB 2.0's 480 Mbps maximum transfer rate. This means that hard drives will (generally) get better performance if they are USB 3.0 enabled, as long as they are plugged into a USB 3.0 port which is capable of 5 Gbps, which is plenty for modern hard drives and enough for the few external SSDs out there. For a USB 2.0 enabled drive, it won't matter since it doesn't support the USB standard which will allow it to go faster than 480 Mbps (about 60 MB/s)
 
In short:
 
Plug in a USB 2.0 drive to a USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 port. Plug in a USB 3.0 drive to a USB 3.0 port.  

Just get the higher capacity drive. YOu'll notice barely any difference. My evo maxes out at 550 for seq read/writes. Most newer ssds are about as fast as they'll ever get to be on sata.

They will basically do the same thing but personally i would go with the rear fan

Chances are the rear case fan is going to do a better job at exhausting air out of the case, so I'd go with that.

Rear fan will be better overall.

One of those times I actually reply to these. I use only soft paper towels to remove thermal paste. If its bit hardened I have PC running for few mins and try again. Never had issues.
Alcohol makes things easier. But recommending it as only option is just snobbish. Even @Slick has admitted using soft paper towels while cleaning paste on test benches. Also, paper towel don't leave anything behind. Even I wouldn't use cloth for it. Not while using alcohol either. Those tend to leave fiber behind. And if they leave something behind, few blows of air will clean it good.

The whole point of using these substances is to make the thermal compound easier to remove. It's not strictly necessary to use anything of the like, but it will make the job considerably easier. Isopropanol is the prefered substance to use, but it can be hard to get hold of, and ethanol will do the job just as well. Acetone is also fine, but it will dissolve some plastics, so I'd be careful with it. Even plain water could work, but you'd have to be very sure it's completely evaporated before you switch the component back on, and since water doesn't automatically evaporate very quickly at room temperature, this makes it less than ideal, and not particularly advicable.
 
The most important thing, however, is not the actual solvent you use, but the substances that are mixed in with them. Try to use the highest concentration solvent that you can get your hands on, and avoid any solvent that has odorants, colourants or similar substances mixed into it, which can be a concern when using nail polish remover.

The 212X is a slight revision, so if it's the same price go for it. It depends on the chip, but 4.5GHz/1.27V could be done somewhat comfortably.

ok, so you should just be able to plug it in to a normal socket?  your normlal household would not have 3 phase power being delivered to normal house sockets.
 
If your trying to attach something to 3 phase then you can choose any one of the 3 phases as the Live termianl then just connect up your Neutral and Ground wires.
the live termianls on 3 phase are Brown,Black and Greay,  Blue neutral and green/rellow as Earth,   If you dont know what your doing or know nothing about wireing or 3 phase and your trying to connect somthing to your 3 phase power then I suggest you dont do it and ask someone that knows how to,  Dont want you to be blown accross the room. 
 
If your wifi is bad and your in a big hose with your wireless bing provided from down staris,  have you considared somthing like multiple wireless access points?
 
The slow connection or disconnects is probably due to distance and material that the signal is going through (based on that you live in a big house)