Fungal

Most people sell tvs locally and not on Ebay. The tv came out 5 years ago for $550 https://advanced-television.com/2017/03/01/vizio-unveils-sub-550-hdr-set/. I wouldn't pay more than 200. I would compare it to local facebook/craigslist listings. After a few minutes I can find better tvs in my area for 250

As someone else said, get a gpu first. 5800x3d or zen 4 could be out by then. Personally I'd wait til September/October and try to get an Rtx 4000 card (if you're looking to spend $800+). This really depends on if you think you could get your hands on a gpu. The initial release is gonna have everything sellout in less than a second (unless major changes are made), so the restocks are where you want to be. If you're on a pc enough during the week then it may be worth it to wait. This depends on whether Newegg wants to sell people gpus or if they want to scam people with newegg shuffle. Luckily you'll be in need of a motherboard, so atleast some of the shuffle bundles won't hurt you. Ideally you'd want to go to a microcenter if you live near one.

I've been running these 2 drives in raid 1 (mirrored) with windows storage spaces for ~2 years. I swapped out the psu a couple months ago which caused the JEKSM93Z drive to not power on anymore. (shucked drives) Fixed it today by taping over the necessary pins. Now I'm only given the option to reset the drive that never went out of commission. I'd like to reset the JEKSM93Z drive as that one is missing months worth of data. tldr: I want to reset JEKSM93Z, only given the option to reset JEKL2SUN. In other words, JEKL2SUN is up to date and I want the other drive to have the same data. I think I can do Reset-PhysicalDisk JEKSM93Z... Just want to make sure that won't delete all the data in the storage space.

1. Don't by 11th gen. Go 12th gen intel with ddr4 or 5th gen ryzen 2. Case says 200 on amazon because it's sold out. Wait for it to go in stock before buying, should be ~130 3. Just get a 750/850 watt 80+ gold fully modular psu. You can run a 3090 on these. 4. Unless you're running ssds in raid get a 2tb 5. Commander is not worth it unless you are connecting rgb or temp sensors to it. With the amount of fans you have a fan controller isn't necessary but you could get something for like $20 if you wanted. Noctuas will come with y-splitters. 6. Don't buy a scalped gpu. $1000+ 3060ti on newegg is scalped. 7. You could get the monitor and any peripherals you want, but wait til you buy a gpu before getting any of the pc components. Case would probably be okay but hardware prices can drop in the time it takes to get a gpu. If Newegg is still doing their shuffle I wouldn't get a monitor yet. Better to get scammed into a monitor gpu bundle if you're in need of a monitor.

Build is fine, but I don't see the point of buying anything until you get the gpu. Using integrated graphics will be a huge step down from your laptop 2060, so I'd just get your other parts same time as your gpu. Depending how long it takes the parts will be cheaper and you can get 5600x or 5800x rather than 5600g. I don't know the gpu situation over there but I wouldn't expect gpu 'deals' until September when new gpus likely come out.

First off I don't think you need 64gb of ram or a 5950x. 5900x and 32gb would probably suffice, but it's only a couple hundred difference. The prebuilt you listed is very overpriced, you're paying $2,500 for a 6800xt. Only notable change in the list is I put a b550 motherboard rather than x570 since it has no chipset fan, most x570 boards are probably $50 more if you want one of those. PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/9HhtcT CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5950X 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor ($739.00 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 360 56.3 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($118.34 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B550-F GAMING (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard ($194.99 @ Adorama) Memory: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($299.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($184.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Samsung 870 QVO 2 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($179.99 @ Adorama) Storage: Samsung 870 QVO 2 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($179.99 @ Adorama) Case: Corsair 7000D AIRFLOW ATX Full Tower Case ($259.99 @ Corsair) Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2021) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($129.99 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($108.78 @ Other World Computing) Case Fan: Corsair LL120 63 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack ($85.99 @ Amazon) Total: $2482.04 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-11-06 17:28 EDT-0400

Powerlimit will have a minimal difference on your vram since your memory will probably be running the same speed. Powerlimiting is more so gonna help with core temps. You could lower the memory clock but I don't think that will help much without downclocking a decent amount. What you really want to do is change the pads. Just remove the backplate and replace the pads on the back of the card. Then I'd also add some mini heatsinks on your backplate. I used these heatsinks. Make sure the pads are the right thickness.

I wouldn't get a slim optiplex because you are limited to 75 watt low profile gpus.

What resolution are you playing at? If 1080p no need to upgrade gpu now. 1440p you could but I'd will til next year with new gpus. 4k if you want to hit 120fps you probably want to upgrade As for cpu, yes 12th gen is said to support ddr5. The speculated date is November for 12th gen. There have been some performance leaks that look very promising, so waiting isn't a bad idea. As for ssd you could go for a gen4 drive but don't expect loading times to be much faster than a sata ssd. You can get a 1tb mx500 (sata) right now for $80. Gen3 nvme ssds can go on sale for less than $100 for 1tb so that wouldn't be bad to wait for either. (You will need to upgrade to fully utilize gen4 ssd speeds)

That is almost double the initial msrp 3 years after it came out

You are thinking of dualsense support. RPCS3 has supported ds4 at the very least since I have been using it which was mid 2020

What. PCSX2 and RPCS3 (ps2 and ps3 emulators) have had native support for dualshock 4 controllers and likely have since they came out. I'm sure EPSXE and PPSSPP do as well. If someone is using a playstation controller on pc they are likely playing games on steam or a playstation emulator. Both of which have native support. Not sure what your point is that they don't have os drivers. Only thing that may not work is malware games launcher.

Just use your ps4 controller. With Steam there's no need for any third party software to get it working. Pair it with bluetooth and you're good to go. Steam and ps emulators have native support for it. Only thing that may not work with it over bluetooth is epic shit launcher.

link?

1650 super has a 100w tdp and needs external power? I don't see how that could be a super. Motherboard pcie slot only gives 75w. Let's say it was a super, albeit the worst one you could possibly have. I don't think this would be worth it

The best possible gpu that could be is a 1650 non super. Just looking at the cooler on it I'd guess something like a gt 1030. This pc is not worth it even with a 1650

If you just assembled the loop give it a day or 2 with pump running. If there are some air bubbles still they'll be gone by then.

So if air bubbles are in your gpu block then that will only affect your gpu. If you have air bubbles in your cpu block it'll only affect cpu. Thermal pads are for things like the memory on the gpu. the temp reported as your 'gpu' temp will be for the actual core which should have thermal paste. The pads is concerning though. I'd download hwinfo and look at what your memory junction temps are and make sure they're not hitting 110C under load which is supposed to be the highest your memory should hit. With watercooling and decent contact it should be less than 105C at the very least

That's another possibility. Do you see any air bubbles in your waterblock? The other 2 possibilities are pump is not spinning, or fan rpm is way too low but I don't think either are the case. To get air bubbles out of your blocks set pump speed to 100% and tilt your computer in different directions.

A lot of misinformation here. 75C is way too high for a watercooled gpu. With 2 480mm radiators the coolant temp is probably <10 degrees above ambient. GPU block should cool your gpu to ~15C above coolant temp. Your gpu temps at highest should be low 60's, high 40's to low 50's is what I'd expect with the raddage you have. The issue probably has to do with the gpu waterblock mount. Could've been that they didn't tighten it enough, not enough thermal paste, or forgot to remove a sticker. You could probably go to microcenter and tell them that you're hitting 80C with 2 480mm radiators and they should remount it for you. Or you could just remount it yourself.

Looks fine. 3700 or 5600x would be preferable but it looks like prices out there kinda suck for the 3700. B550 would be nice too. I'd go for a case with better airflow but it doesn't matter too much with a 1060. I'd grab a $30-50 cpu aircooler too

Yes it'll work. You'll only get gen 3 speeds which is about 3,500 MB/s reads and writes. If you don't plan on upgrading within a year or 2 I'd go gen 3.

First off what resolution and framerate are you trying to play at? I wouldn't buy a 3080ti unless you need the performance now. If you get a 3070 for $600, then you could get a 4070 or 5070 later down the line for ~$600. The 4070 would have around 3080ti performance and if you waited longer the 5070 would have a nice performance bump. You can also sell the old card for a couple hundred so it would come out a lot cheaper than just getting a 3080ti. Also xx70 cards use less power and will be quieter than the 350w 3080ti. Not sure what 5th amd cpu prices are in EU but I'd look at those. I'd definitely go with a b550 over b450. You'll get pcie gen 4 which today doesn't make a real difference, but could in a couple years. Everything else looks fine

Yes although I wouldn't get it depending on the situation. a D5 pump will be a little quieter than a ddc pump which is what that block uses. Filling the loop will be much easier as well. D5 pumps are gonna be a bit bigger. For a small form factor case that block is great but for a mid sized pc I'd personally go with a larger pump/res combo with a D5. The downside of going this route is you're gonna have to find room to mount it. Also if you didn't know, generally 120mm of radiator for 100w of heat is a good rule of thumb. Bare minimum I'd get is 4*120mm of rad space. You could probably get away with a 360 or 280 but that would require undervolting and running fans loud. I'd just go with as much rad space as you could possibly fit comfortably. I highly recommend a temp sensor to control fans based on coolant temp as well.