paddy-stone

I have 3x 1060 cards in various machines right now and have never had a problem with noise or anything else. I even ran them in a mining rig for a year or so, no problems with noise or cooling etc... I could barely hear them even, and slept in the same room.

OK I have a few examples for you, real world transfer speeds, which is where you'd see the most difference. Copying a big file (13GB) from mech drive to SX8200 pro (512GB) is approx 160MB/s sustained write. The same file from mech to a SN770 (500GB) is approx the same. And again same file, but from SX8200 to SN770 is approx 1.8GB/s, is dips slightly towards the end down to 1.3GB/s, for about 1 second, then goes back to 1.8GB/s again. This is using the SN770 in a PCIE Gen 4 slot, and the SX8200 in a gen 3, but the results for you should be approx similar I would think seeing as PCIE gen 3 maxes out approx 4GB/s, it shouldn't be hampered much if any. I don't have another SN770 or other gen 4 ATM, if not I would test it in the gen 3 slot to tell you if there is any difference.

I get around 9500 with my 11400f multi, with stuff running as normally used in windows on mine.

Before upgrading CPU it's always wise to check with the OEM to see if it needs a BIOS update to work properly. But in this case, because your system is actually trying to boot into windows, I'd say that's not a problem this time. As above said, I think it's driver problems... it would possibly be quicker in the long run to just reinstall windows. But you could try booting into safe mode and trying uninstalling drivers etc to get where you want... it could end up taking you longer though, and possibly ending up with annoying bugs/glitches if everything isn't sorted out correctly.

Nope, think you're out of luck there. That's why I always use a cloud backup service for my phone, so I don't lose my files if I have to reset it. Sorry this happened to you. Maybe someone else will know a way, but I've never heard of a way without developer mode/ADB being used.

I had the same problem when I first bought that AIO, it's the fans... as soon as I replaced the fans, the noise stopped.

Yeah I can't see anything wrong with your build at all. I would just try reset CMOS by itself though, one last time. Also, what does your build do after flashing bios? just asking because it could be that you thought bios flash was done, but actually you interrupted the flashback possibly. So could try flashback again, and just leave it for like 10 mins, then remove USB, and restart.

Can you get into the bios settings? do you have a keyboard connected? and does it light up during POST? I believe there should be a setting in bios that disables the "halt on keyboard error". Also, if your monitor has the inputs, try switching to HDMI/DP depending on whatever you're connected to at the moment. Could you please post some pics of your connections to the mobo too, we might be able to spot something that's not correct.

Never done it myself, as I've never needed to.

Yeah, Unfortunately that doesn't have a bios flashback... So think you're stuck getting the bios chip re-flashed if possible or new mobo. This is why I am glad I have a UPS for my systems... especially if you have mobos with no bios flashback function or recoverable function.

What motherboard have you got?

Can you either install nordvpn or another vpn software, and see if it works then? I'm thinking that when you uninstalled nordvpn before that maybe it was still set on vpn kill switch, and that that part hasn't been overwritten/reset, so that's what's blocking your internet access... again I could be wrong, but that's what it seems like to me. That should actually fix the problem you're having... can you try it again.

Not sure if will boot with ram stick in 3rd slot. No cooler. No boot device, so it's shutting down.

I know it may not be that... but often find that to be the case with new setups.

Click on settings and then in "find setting bar" enter "network status" Then click on "properties" and check if it's set to "private"

I think you should be able to set the frequency manually. In my UEFI/BIOS I have XMP disabled, and underneath that I have set the frequency.

Cool, glad you got it sorted. Yes some of the PC building can be up to interpretation rather than an actual value. I lost cound of the amount of standoffs/screws that I've broken/stripped over the past 25 years for example. With mounting pressure, I always use a screwdriver rather than relying on "hand tight" for the thumbscrews, even though I am strong. For me it's a mix of being disabled and also awkwardness of gripping stuff like that in tight spaces. Always better to use a screwdriver IMO.... I usually go by how hard the screw is to turn... you can usually tell when the screw has reached the limit, then I do about a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn more.

When it reboots it might be automatically downclocking the frequency or using JEDEC frequency default of 2133Mhz IIRC, but could be wrong, that might be when the PC reboots itself due to not passing POST. You could try running them a bit looser timings etc. Might be worth asking in the memory forum how you'd go about getting the 2 kits to match up. I'd offer to help, but that's beyond my knowledge as I only ever run 2 sticks that are matched. If you don't want to, I totally understand and hope you have no probs with the new kit

Sorry I didn't see that you'd previously mentioned it... this is why they have a rule about reposting the same faults, as it can get complicated for everyone concerned. Did you try all slots with a known working ram module? it could be a faulty mem slot. It could also be that even though the modules are the same brand/speed etc they are not matched, so not guaranteed to work together. You might have to manually set the voltage and timings etc to try and get them to work... it can be very finicky. Personally speaking I would maybe have just sold the kit you already had, and then got 2x16GB modules instead, which are tested to work together. Can you return the kits and get most of your money back? or would it be a massive hit?

Yeah, I wouldn't RMA them unless I knew there was a fault. Do you have any other hardware on your PC, like USB external drives or anything? if so unplug them for testing. I would strip the PC down to barebones for more testing personally. Also have you looked at the specs for your mobo, some mobos have a limit on frequency for 4x ram sticks IIRC, so stepping down the frequency might help too, at least for testing purposes anyway. If the problems only started when you added 2 more sticks, then I would say the above might be the problem RE the frequency limit for 4 sticks, usually the vendor specifies a max frequency for OC, but that IIRC is for 2x sticks, so might have to dig into it a bit to find out. eg, this is for my mobo

£157 in the UK... that's the problem with different markets, something that's a great deal in one market is pretty crap in another.

I had a look at your previous thread, and one thing stood out to me. When you were asked if you tested the RAM you replied that you had tested each stick in each slot.... but you never mentioned memtestx86. So did you run memtestx86 or not? if not then I would suggest you do that as it could be a fault in one stick that's causing all your problems. I had this before, about 15 years ago with some expensive RAM sticks, I RMA'd them and got replacements, but in the end I sold those brand new sticks and went with a different vendor... never had a problem again.

Yep, that looks more normal. You'll have to monitor it for a bit to be sure though, as 1 minute or so is still very early to consider it fixed. Ahh I see it's been 18 hours + now, so hope it's fixed for you

Not correct. Ia m also running an 11400f version though, and temps are fine even on cinebench run... I've only got a bequiet pure rock slim 2 cooler on it too.... complete build https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/BMWCC6 OP, I'd say it might be your case that's limiting it, or possibly even the mounting pressure of the cooler. At idle (for me this includes running jellyfin server, some nzb stuff and others), it's sitting at 42-44C mostly, and case fans etc are set to very low too, almost inaudible. Cinebench run took it up to 90C towards the very end of a single run on multi-core. Was running at 4.2Ghz all core. If left running it might eventually reach the point of throttling, but that could be addressed by getting more fresh air into the case, or buying a better cooler... if you've already tried a better cooler, which you have, then to me that suggests it might be the case isn't getting enough air in possibly... try running it with the case open and see how it goes.

I'm not sure, that could be very hard to find out... I looked at the specs for my TV and it doesn't mention anywhere whether it can read GPT partitions. Actually come to think of it, the media player also doiesn't mention it, so if you're limited to MBR, you may still be limited to 2TB per partition, so maximum of 4x2TB IIRC for MBR. Sorry I forgot about the media player also might have those limitations I have used NAS or shared drives from my PC for a long ass time now, so forgot about that, I am sorry. But looks as though this limitations would also be on newer TVs too possibly. Might be time to think about using a computer as the media player, then as long as the computer has UEFI/GPT support (which it shoould), then there's no limit to size of drive it's able to read/write. A cheaper op[tion would be to use a raspberry pi with raspbian OS which should have no trouble reading GPT.... but to playback x265/hevc content I believe you'd need pi4.